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ACROSS THE ATLANTIC/ 



THE TKIP FROM NEW YORK TO BERLIN. 



The Steamer Persia— Hamburg and Its 

Sights— The Churches— Some German 

Customs. 



Berlin, February 25, 1895. 

I have promised to pen a few letters for 
Advocate readers during my sojourn in 
Europe. I fear they will not be very inter- 
esting ; however, I will keep my promise. 

We left New York the next morning 
after the reception of the sad news of the 
sinking of the ship, " Elbe," in the North 
sea with over four hundred souls on board, 
and as our route to Hamburg was upon the 
same sea, we were at first somewhat nervous 
over our coming sea voyage. But we tried 
to look on the bright side of ocean life, and 
recalled the tact that there were many 
ships and steamers riding old ocean's waves 
safely and proudly, and resolved to main- 
tain our manhood. Our gallant ship car- 
ried us safely, and nobly defied the sea's 
mountain waves as speeded on our eastern 
course. The " Persia " is not a fast steamer, 
as we were fourteen days in reaching Ham- 
burg ; but she proved a very steady boat, 
and to the delight of our passengers had 
very little rocking motion, so that we es- 
caped sea-sickness. We had several days 
of sunshine and moonlight nights. These 
were passed in promenading the decks, 
playing shuffleboard and children's games, 
and in waltzing and dancing ; a very good 
hand-organ furnishing the music. A Rus- 
sian expert upon an accordeon made the 
music for the steerage passengers, and we 
witnessed them in their merry-making and 
waltzing. The Germans in their waltzing 
move only one way — never reversing as in 
America — and they waltzed until dizzy or 
weary before taking rest. Sea life is a 



genuine recreation on such a boat as the 
" Persia." She is a large, heavy twin- 
screw freight boat, and accommodates only 
forty-eight cabin passengers. There were 
only sixteen of us, and we soon came to 
know one another, and found several very 
interesting associates. They were mostly 
German and the crew of our ship being all 
German, we heard German, ate and drank 
German, and dreamed German ; in fact, 
before we knew it, we had adopted German 
customs, and were twisting our tongues in 
many forms in the effort to utter German. 
We were forced to try to speak the lan- 
guage, and acquired several words and sen- 
tances. We were fortunate in not having 
very cold weather and very little rough sea ; 
but we did experience two days and nights 
when it became necessary to keep the ship's 
hatches and port holes all closed, as enor- 
mous waves dashed over the top of the 
steamer, causing her to reel to and fro, 
and we found our state-room luggage flying 
around like leaves in autumn. It was a 
relief when a calm sea was restored, and a 
pleasure to view an occasional passing ves- 
sel. Sea gulls, very handsome birds, fol- 
lowed and kept us company, and as we 
neared the English coast a wee bird, with a 
handsome red breast, alighted on our deck 
and was fed by the passengers. There was 
much rejoicing when we sighted land, or 
rather rocks, at the " Lizard," on the Eng- 
lish coast. Here the ship gave signals that 
caused those on shore to cable to New York 
our safe arrival in the English channel ; 
thus notifying our friends in America that 
we were near our destination. We were 
two days more in reaching the mouth of 
the Elbe river, which we found filled with 
ice ; this prevented our going up the river 
on the " Persia," and we were transferred 
near Cuxhaven to a small steamer, and in a 
few hours were at the docks in Hamburg 
It was a sight to behold the passengers as 
they wended their way from the dock to 
the Custom House. The steerage, men 



and women, hoisted their trunks and heavy 
luggage to their backs and shoulder-, and 
made pack mules of themselves in getting 
to the Custom House. Cabin passengers 
were provided with a heavy dray, and paid 
for cartage. Our trunks and valises were 
opened for inspection, our German associat* s 
goon satisfying the inspectors that we carried 
no dutiable goods, we were soon at our hotel, 
ready for a good dinner on land, which was 
greatly relished after fourteen days of ship 
dining. 

HAMBURG. 

Our hotel room afforded us a very de- 
lightful view of Hamburg's celebrated 
" Al8ter-Bassin," the city's chief attraction. 
It is bounded on three sides by quays 
planted with trees and is surrounded with 
mnay palatial hotels and very handsome 
dwellings. It is a body of water one mile 
in circumference. We saw it covered with 
ice, upon which had been erected hundreds 
of booths used as depositories for skaters, 
lunch rooms and beer gardens. Swings and 
merry -go-rounds were numerous, filled with 
peopie, and hundreds of men, women and 
children were gliding gracefully and swiftly 
over the surface. In summer, the " Bassin " 
is enlivened by numerous screw steamers 
and row boats, and groups of swans ; the 
whole surrounding forming an attractive 
promenade. Adjoining the promenades are 
arcades in massive stone with attractive 
shops and b»z*rs, filled with everything 
to attract and please the eye, and tempt and 
draw marks from the purse of the tour- 
ist or \isitor. Adjoining the " Bassin " is 
the noted " Cafe B+uer," an immense 
structure having several floors which are 
richly ornamented with massive marble 
columns in Corinthian architecture. Here 
assemble people of every country and clime 
— Hamburg being Germany's greatest com- 
mercial port — who sit, dine, and converse, 
the diversity of tongues being a marked 
feature. Daily papers from all the leading 



cities of the world are kept on file for the 
gutsts to read; we were shown copies of 
the New York Herald of four days 
later date than we had on our steamer 
We passed three days very pleasantly in 
this city, as one of our lady passengers had a 
brother there. She and her brother came to 
our hotel and accompanied us in our sight- 
seeing, acting as our guides. This enabled 
us to view Hamburg easily and speedily. 
On Sunday we attended the English church, 
but found a small attendance. The music 
was excellent, a male choir of twelve voices, 
the Psalter being intoned. The rector de- 
livered an impressive sermon U6ing no notes. 
This church, we were told, receives no 
English support, and depends upon the con. 
tributions of its few parishoners and visitors 
for its maintenance. We viewed the 
church, "St. Nicolai," (Lutheran), built 
in the Gothic style of the 13th cen- 
tury. The organ, said the sachristan, 
was the largest in Europe. It contains many 
handsome statues and fine stained-glass 
windows. We were much interested in 
the beautiful intarsia work in the door of 
the sachristy, and in the rich sculpture of 
its interior and exterior. Here, we noticed 
a large clock in an angle of the walls, the 
first time we had seen a "grandfather" 
clock in a church. We also entered the 
church "Michaelis," built in 1660. It has 
a very high dome in the centre. The sex- 
ton sated that when the dome was com- 
pleted, the builders and architect were con- 
fronted by the people refusing to allow the 
scaffolding to be removed, claiming that it 
was impossible for such a structure to re- 
main in place without support. To satisfy 
them that his work was perfect, he placed 
himself directly under the dome, remaining 
there until the support was removed, and 
the people became satisfied that his archi 
tecture was perfect. It contained several 
old paintings, but none worthy of mention. 
Hamburg has many beautiful churches, 
but none cf great note. The Art Gallery is 



contained in a very handsome marble 
building, and, being free to all, is visited 
daily by many hundreds of people. It is 
supported by the city, and has many works 
of art, both in painting and statuary. We 
passed several pleasant hours there. 

It was interesting to view the thousands 
of brokers, merchants and shop-keepers 
gathering at the "Bourse" or Exchange. 
They meet at one o'clock, and came in 
great processions from all parts of the city. 
We looked upon the noisy crowd from the 
gallery, and were reminded of similar 
scenes we had witnessed in American 
cities. The reading room and commercial 
library contain many thousand volumes, 
and we found a good supply of American 
Commercial newspapers and magazines. 

One evening, we listened to a German 
rendition of the operas Mignon and Caval- J 
eria Rusticana. The scenic effects were 
most excellent, the orchestra, fine, but the | 
singing, although artistic, seemed harsh in | 
t>ne, caused, perhaps, by using German j 
woids which we were unaccustomed to 
hear. We met some of the passengers from 
the "Persia" there, and in consequence, 
passed a very pleasant evening. On an- 
other evening, we attended a concert, given 
in the largest music hall in the city. Our 
friends — Mrs. Von Rayer, a Swedish lady 
of New York, Mr. Erick Blaag, her broth- 
er, and Mr. Winge, a Norwegian professor 
of architecture in the Hamburg School of 
Fine Arts, were our guides and companions. 
To these friends we are indebted 
for our really home life in Ham- 
burg. We can never forget their 
hospitality and kindness during our 
stay in this old German city, amid its 
ancient and curious structures, reminding 
us of the pictured views of " New Amstra- 
dam " in the sixteenth century — then the 
embryo city of New York. This conceit 
was given by the orchestra and band of the 
Fourth Regiment of Infantry of Berlin. It 



was mostly orchestral, and to our American 
ears simply grand in its execution. The 
very large German audience were so de- 
lighted with the music, and became so 
enthusiastic as to compel us to forget our 
American coldness and become so enraptur- 
ed with the music and the scene we were 
witnessing that we involuntarily found our 
delight had caused us to become, if possible, 
more demonstrative than the Germans 
around us During the hours of the con- 
cert peasant girls dressed in showy cos- 
tumes of plaids, and weariog showy wide- 
brimmed hats, visited the tables around 
which visitors were sitting, eating, drink- 
ing and smoking, selling handsome flowers. 
Their costumes and flying ribbons of many 
hues presented a scene entirely new to us 
We will hot undertake an estimate of 
the thousands of glasses of beer and other 
drinkables consumed, but will be honest 
and report that we took our portion also. 
It is an old saying that " When in Rome 
do as the Romans do." We did so in 
Hamburg, and no doubt will do so in Rome 
when in that ancient city. BelieviDg that 
our German readers will be interested in 
reading the program of music at the con- 
cert in their own language we give it as 
follows : 



Streichmusik. 

1. Ericas Fest-Marsch Frz. Bitter 

2. Ouverture z. Oprtt. „ Pique Dame " Suppe 

3. Susses Sehnen, Romanze fur Flute und 

Cello—, Menzel 

(Flote, Herr Piecha; Cello, Herr Sanguinette.) 

4. Lebe wohl! Serenade fur Englisch 

Horn Moses 

(Englisch Horn, Herr Block.) 

5. O schone Jugendzeit ! Walzer 

Schmidt- Berka 

II. THEIL. 

6. Ouverture z Op. „Rienzi" B. Wagner 

7. Aennchens GeDurtstag, Serenade Herold 

Auf vielseitigem Wunsch. 

8. „Sang an Aegir", Dichtung u. Compo- 

sition von Sr. Maj. dem deutschen 

Kaiser, Konig von Preussen WUhelm II 

=- gesungen von der Capelle mit 

Orchesterbegleitung 



Aegir, Herr der 
Fluthen ; Dem Nix 
und Neck sich beugt ; 

1 n M orgensonnenglu- 



Wie Frithjof auf Ellida 
Getrost durchfuhr Dein 
Meer ; So schirm' auf 
diesem Drachen ; Uns. 



then . Die Heldenschaar 
eich neigt ; In grimmer 
Fend' wir fahren Hin 

,n den fernen Strand ; 
urch Sturm, durch 

els und Klippe ; Fuhr 
uns in Feindes Land ! 
Will uns der Neck bed- 
rauen ; V|e r s a g t uns 
unserSchiid; So wahr 
Dein flammend Auge ; 
Dem Ansturm, noch so 
wild. 



Deiner Sonne Heer I 
Wenn in dem wilden 
Horste Sich Brunnauf 
Brunne drangt ; Den 
Feind vom Stahl ge- 
troffen; Die Schiides- 
maid umfaugt ; Dann 
tone hin zum Meere: 
Mit Sch wert una 
Schildes Klang ; We 
hoher Gott. stet uhre ; 
GAfcich Sturmwind un- 
| »arSang. 



9. Berliner Plaudereien, Humoreske Kersten 

10. 2 Waldhornquartette 

a) Heut' scheid ich morgen wand're 

ich Sileher 

b) Still runt der See ! Pfeil 

III. THEIL. 

MiUtarmu&ik . 

11. Drei altpreussische Armee Marsche. 

a) Armeemarsch No. la Krause 

b) Der Dessauer Armee-Marach. 

c) Der Hoheniriedberger „ 

12. Der c arneval von Venedig - Walther 

13. 2 Geschwindmarsche 

a) Abschiedsmarsch. 

b) Auf Wieder sehen. 

Number eight in the second part was 
played by one-halt the orchestra, the other 
half, and every other German in the hall, 
singing the words and tuae. The music 
and words were composed by Kaiser William 
II, the present Emperor of Germany. The 
scene with its great volumes of musjc will 
never be effaced from our memory. 

We visited the Z >ological Garden, said 
to be the largest in the world. We found 
it buried in snow, all the out-door attract- 
ions being invisible. In-doors was a vast 
collection of birds, animals and reptiles of 
all countries, the American buffalo being 
among the number. What noble speci- 
mens of elephants, lions, tigers, rhinoceros 
and hippopotami did our eyes behold I all 
enormous in size and of great beauty. We 
were greeted with a view of a female 
jaguar playing with her five weeks old 
young. She was a large specimen of her 
race, and tossed about the kitten and carried 
it about her cage in the same manner as 
does our domestic cat. The little one was 
very handsome in color and spots, its skin 
locking like the richest velvet. What a 
pleasure it would have been to have had 
all the young readers of this paper enjoy 
the sight. 



Our bojhood days were recalled in seeing 
numerous people going through the street 
with wooden yokes on their shoulders, 
from which were suspended heavy baskets 
or packages. We had used such a yoke 
when a lad in serving our parents, but 
they had passed from our memory. Our 
young readers would be amused seeing the 
milk cart passing The milk is carried in 
large pails suspended from a frame, be- 
cause it is considered that the milk is less 
disturbed when thus carried. A man, but 
more often a woman, pushes the cart along 
assisted by one or two large dogs, harnessed 
to the front of the cart or directly under it 
and in front of the axle. The se dogs do 
good service and we see them hitched to aU 
kinds of carts. The owners of dogs are re- 
quired to pay a tax of twenty marks (five 
dollars) each year into the city treasury, 
and as thousands are used, the treasury 
obtains quite a revenue from the dog tax 

We are in Berlin for a brief stay. In 
reaching this city, the home of the Emper 
or, the country passed over from Hamburg 
reminds us of the description we had often 
read of it. It is level, with very little 
rolling scenery. Just now it is completely 
covered with the pure white snow of winter 
and save an occasional sled drawn by dogs, 
and curiously constructed houses with many 
windows and windmills of "ye ancient 
type," as observed from our car window, 
our four hours railway ride from Hamburg 
to Berlin was without interest. A. l. u. 



—Both party caucuses in Dansville, Liv- 
ingston county, adopted this resolution : 
Resolved, That it is the sense of the party 
of the town of North Dansville in caucus 
assembled that we place in nomination a 
candidate for excise commissioner, and that 
the party favors in the interests of the tax- 
payers of the town a license fee to be ex- 
acted by the excise board, sufficienily large 
($100.00) as to materially reduce the tax«s 
imposed upon our town, at least to the ex- 
tent of that imposed by our last excise 
board. 



THE CAPITAL - 
OF GERMANY. 



OHTER DEN LINDEN — THE MILITARY 

-TRIUMPHAL ARCHES AND 

STATUES. 



Tha Royal Museum-Royal Library- 
Royal Stables— Arsenals, Etc. 



Berlin, March 4th, 1895. 
I have remained in this city for two 
weeks, and go on to Vienna, in Austria 
My stay in the capital of Prussia, the heme 
of the Emperor, has been very pleasant. 
Had fairly good weather, with light fall of 
snow, which melted as soon as it fell. 
Berlin is a Protestant city with nearly two 
millions of people, including a very large 
standing army. The river Spree intersects 
the city, and is crossed by more than fifty 
bridges in various parts of the city. 
We have rooms on the Unter den Linden, 
a most beautiful street, considered one of 
the finest in Europe. It is about one mile 
long from the royal palace to the Branden- 
burg gate. It reminded us of the principal 
street in Salt Lake City, Utah. It has fine 
avenues in the centre in which are chest- 
nut, linden, plantain, acacia and aspen 
trees. They looked especially beautiful 
this morning, clothed as they were in the 
silvery frost of winter, contrasting beauti- 
fully with the palaces and public structures 
that line each side of the street. Here are 
the palaces of the Emperor and a dozen 
others of the royal family, the Academy of 
Fine Arts, opera house, arsenal and the 
seminaries of the artillery and engineers. 



Here, the royalty, the wealthy and the 
fashionable exhibit themselves and their 
splendid equipages. Here are daily seen 
the royal guard, headed by military bands, 
as they move from and to their various 
quarters. We saw the Emperor passing by 
in his royal carriage. The fixtures which 
strike the eye in the streets, are vast fronts 
of buildings, ornaments, statues, inscrip- 
tions, a profusion of guard-houses, sentry- 
boxes, sentries presenting arms every few 
minutes, a great number of officers with 
gilt trappings, feathers and swords, passing 
unceasingly. 

The Brandenburg Gate at one end of the 
Linden forms the principal enterance to 
this street. It is surmounted by a magnifi- 
cent triumphal arch, erected in 1789. It 
is a copy of the Propylaeum at Athens, 
with a car of victory on top, the whole 
having many figures almost life like and 
beautiful. At the other end of the Linden 

I is a colossal statue of Frederick, the Great, 

'■ said to be one of the finest in all Europe. 
Covering the sides of a pedestal of granite, 

' 25 feet high, are bronze groups, the size of 
life, of all the leading general and states- 

: men during the Seven Years' War, in all 
31 figures. At each corner, above the 
groups, are figures representing Justice, 
Prudence, Fortitude and Temperance. 
Between these are bas-reliefs representing 
six different periods in the life of Frederick. 
The whole is surmounted by an equestrian 
statue, 17 feet high, most true to life and 
perfect in all its proportions. A mantle 
hangs from the monarch's shoulders, and 
both he and his horse appear as if living 
objects. The city is famous for its public 
statues, both single and in groups, and I 
see them everywhere. 

The city is noted for its great interest in 
music and the arts Close by the Emperor's 
palace is the Royal Opera House, and the 
opera is universally patronized. It is nec- 
essary to obtain a sitting, a day in advance, 
so great is the rush. There is a play every 



night and Sunday afternoon and evening. 
No person is allowed to sit with headgear 
and places are provided for checking wear- 
ing apparel, 35 phenuigs, about six cents, 
being demanded for this service. We also 
have full view of the stage. We enjoyed 
the music, and the scenery surpassed any 
we had ever seen even in New York city. 
The opera begins at 7 p. m. and is over at 
10 p. m. There are many beautiful thea- 
tres, whioh are crowded nightly. The 
Circus-Rentz is a very large ampitheatre, 
with an immense seating capacity. We 
saw there the usual circus, for thirty min- 
utes, followed by a grand spectacular rep- 
resentation of "New Year's Day in China." 
The whole scene was presented in Chinese 
costumes, and several hundred took part in 
the play. Every conceivable style of dress 
was represented in the various scenes— there 
were ballet girls in gorgeous array, and 
some in Venus garments, some covered 
with bells, having different tones, playing, 
as they jingled them, beautiful, familiar 
airs. Thi3 spectacle lasted over an hour 
aid was very enjoyable. 

Tne Philharmouij Concerts pleased us 
most, as they are mostly instrumental. The 
orchestra of one hundred musicians, using 
every instrument known to artists, render 
the music in mcst perfect harmony. The 
Germans sit here for hours, drinking beer, 
conversing between the pieces, while many 
ladies are seen, knitting, or using the 
needle upon their fancy work. This scene 
is enlivened by an occasional special artist, 
who renders vocal, or instrumental special- 
ties upon the violin, piano or harp. 

The Royal Museums, both old and new, 
are very elaborate and are really one. The 
splendid marble columns and staircases, the 
cleanliness and order with which every 
thing is arranged, renders the effect truly 
magnificent. In the old museum is a 
large cabinet of medals, a sculpture and a 
picture gallery. In the rear of the build- 
ing, connected by a covered arcade, is the 



new museum, containing Egyptian, As- 
syrian, ethnological and historical collec- 
tions. The colonnade is impressive— the 
front walls adorned with frescoes ; beneath 
them are paintings, also many very hand- 
some frescoes at the entrance to the ro- 
tunda. We passed through the rotunda 
and a circular hall to a sculpture gallery, 
containing over 1,000 pieces ; viewed a 
cabinet of medals, vases and bronzes of over 
4,000 specimens. Next, to a picture gal- 
lery having 37 rooms, with paintings in 
the Italian, French, Spanish, Venetian, 
Florentine, Roman and other schools. Of 
course we cannot speak of them, but very 
many are the principal works of art in 
Europe, and have been placed here by di- 
rection of the Emperor that every one may 
see them. Not long ago, they were seen 
only by the few, who were admitted to the 
palaces of the royalty. We do not profess 
any knowledge of painting, but our eyes 
were particularly charmed with the beauty, 
brilliancy and perfection of these works of 
the great masters. We also enjoyed 
the new museum. We found the 
most beautiful scene in the center 
of the building. Here is an elegant 
staircase that forms a single flight from the 
ground floor to the top of the building. It 
is 132 feet high, the walls decorated with 
magnificent paintings. The frescoes are in 
six sections representing important events 
in the history of mankind. The first, the 
Fall of Babel and the dispersion of the na- 
tions, in the foreground the division of the 
tribes. In the second, the Prosperity of 
Greece. The third, the Destruction of 
Jerusalem by Titus ; in the foreground the 
high priest killing himself and family, 
above are four prophets who predict its 
downfall. The fourth, represents the Battle 
of the fluns. The fifth, the Crusaders be- 
fore Jerusalem. The sixth, the grandest of 
a 1, Age of the Reformation. Before an 
altar is seen Luther holding up a bible, 



surrounded by Calvin, Melanchton and 
others, while sitting around are numerous 
early reformers, and on either side celebra- 
ted monarchs, philosophers, artists, authors 
and generals. There is a frieze around the 
entire hall representing the development of 
mankind. The view above described can- 
not, I fear, be comprehended unless seen 
by the reader, but its beauty will never be 
effaced from our memory. There is a de- 
partment of casts in plaster, said to be the 
most extensive and the best in Europe. 
We mention a few of them that particu- 
larly impressed us with their beauty : The 
Laocoon at Rome ; the Farnese Bull, the 
largest marble group of antiquity; the 
Dying Gladiator ; the Dancing Fawn and 
many venuses, particularly, the Venus of 
Medici and the Venus of Milo. In the 
hall of modern art we enjoyed a view of 
Michael Angelo's monuments of the Medici; 
the celebrated Doors of the Baptistry at 
Florence, and others. German art is par- 
ticularly represented in the National gallery 
near the museum ; the pictures are the 
masterpieces of the first artists of Germany. 
In all these galleries, we found gentlemen 
and ladies making copies of the paintings, 
a:.d in many instances appeared to be im- 
proving upon the originals, showing that 
the present time bids fair to produce artists 
that will bring credit upon their day and 
generation. 

We were shown through the large palace 
of the late Emperor William I., viewing 
all the relics used by the royal family in 
his day. They reminded us of a display of 
wedding presents, but of course were far 
more extensive It is not occupied at pres- 
ent. Adjoining, is the Royal Library, a 
very plain looking structure. It contains 
900,000 volumes and 15,000 manuscripts. 
We are shown one part of Luther's transla- 
tion of the bible, a bible published by 
Gutenberg in 1450, the first book printed 
with movable type. Here we see students 



of the University in large numbers perus- 
ing and studying the books and manu- 
scripts. There is also a library of 200,000 
volumes and 80,000 dissertations in the 
University buildings. There are over 2,000 
students. It is a very old structure and 
whs formerly a palace ; was erected in the 
17th century. The students obtain their 
instruction through lectures on the various 
subjects, delivered by the various professors. 
We were admitted to the Royal Stables 
and shown over 300 horses, nearly all a jet 
black. The animals have their tails crop- 
ped and are kept very shiny and glossy. 
The grooms are kept busy, and on great oc- 
casions a line display is made. The centre 
of the stables is in the form of an amphi- 
theatre, where horses used for hunting are 
trained. We witnessed the groom training 
several to jump fences as dogs preceded 
them. 

There are many Lutheran churches in 
the city, but Germans are not a church- 
going people — most of the shops open after 
twelve o'clock, and Sunday is a day of vis- 
iting, feasting and theatre-going. The old- 
est Lutheran church is St. Nicholas, and is 
very beautiful. It was built in the 12th 
century of hewn granite. Another, the 
Parochial, was built in 1695. This church 
contains many vaults in which the corpses 
have withstood decomposition. All the 
churches show carved work, representing 
scriptural scenes. 

The Empress Victoria, eldest daughter of 
Queen Victoria of England, now the widow 
of the late Emperor Frederick III., has 
had erected a very pretty English church 
in the Monbijou Gardens, for the use of 
English and American Episcopalians. We 
attended, and it seemed like home to par- 
ticipate in the services there. There was a 
good congregation of English and Ameri- 
can people. Prayer was read for the Presi- 
dent of the United States and for the Queen 
of England. 
The contents of the Hohenzollern Museum, 



i 



opposite the church, are relics of Branden- 
burg and Prussia All the articles ever 
used by the royal families of those far back 
days are seen here. It is bewildering to 
look them over, as there are several thous- 
and of them. One room is devote<| to 
Frederick the Great, the great elector of 
Brandenburg, We looked over his mili- 
tary trappings and bedroom furniture, and 
it seemed to me every article he possessed, 
or his royal family possessed, from his 
wooden cradle to the bed he slept upon, 
and finally, the chair in which he died. It 
is the custom to keep all articles used or 
worn by royalty, and after death to place 
them in museums for sightseers, and thous- 
ands fee the attendants to be shown through 
the museums. 

We found the Arsenal, or hall of fame, 
opposite the palace of Empress Frederick, 
very interesting. The upper cornice is beau- 
tifully decorated by different groups of fig- 
ures and weapons chiselled in sandstone. 
We enter and see all kinds of cannon from 
the 16 :h to the 19th century. Models of 
fortresses of several centuries, an immense 
collection of arms, arranged in historical 
order,oriental weapons from Turkey, Persia, 
Arabia, and the Caucasus, coats of mail 
for man and horse, and every conceivable 
article comprised in military accoutrements. 
In glass cases, are uniforms once 
worn by Russian, Polish, Austrian 
and English troops, and all the 
walls are decorated with flags and war 
trophies. It is a very interesting collec- 
tion. We looked in upon the thousands or 
more, who assemble daily at the Bourse or 
Exchange. It is the largest hall in Berlin, 
divided into three parts by two arcades. 
Two are used for the stock exchange and 
one for the corn trade. A gallery above, 
affords visitors a view of this busy mart of 
trade. We think the Reichstag, or House 
of Parliament, the handsomest building in 
Berlin. It is lofty, and in its architecture, 



far superior to any of the palaces or other 
structures. It has sessions every day 
except Sunday, and very lively are the 
scenes enacted there. The great question 
discussed of late, has been the proposed in- 
ternational monetary congress. 

We had a very pleasant drive through the 
Theirgarten, which is entered through the 
Brandenburg gate. This park is about two 
miles long by one wide and is filled with 
magnificent trees, small lakes and canals. 
It is separated into two parts by a wide 
avenue. We saw it covered with snow, 
the lakes and canals covered by skaters. 
Th^re is a very good zoological garden at 
the extremity of the park, which has many 
visitors. The avenue which divides the 
Theirgarten into two parts, leads directly 
to Charlotten burgh, where are seen monu- 
ments of the late king and queen of Prussia 
and the Emperor William I. These mon- 
uments are very beautiful. The mausoleum 
is in the form of a small doric temple. The 
figure of the queen is a masterpiece ; it re- 
poses on a marble sarcophagus, the hands 
folded on the breast. The figure of her 
husband lies beside the queen. On either 
side is a white marble candelabrum ; that 
on the right represents the Three Fates ; 
that on the left, the Three Muses. There 
is also a handsome crucifix. 

We devoted one whole day to an excur- 
sion to Potsdam, an environ of Berlin, and 
a great station for the Prussian army. 
There is a garrison of 7,000 men. It is 
beautifully situated on the river Havel, 
surrounded by groves and rivulets, streams 
and forests, meadows and gardens and 
everything to make a landscape lovely, 
mountains excepted. The architecture of 
the houses is admirable. There are five 
royal residences in and about it— the palace 
of Sans Souci, the Royal Palace, the New 
Palace, the Marble Palace and Babelsberg. 
The town is indebted to Frederick the 
Great for its splendor. We were admitted 
to his old palace erected toward the cloee of 



the 17th century. It contains nothing of 
importance except the furniture used by 
Frederick, his old writing table covered with 
ink, his library of French books, 
music composed by himself, his flute 
and a grand piano of ye ancient style. 
We were shown the room in which the 
great Napoleon of France tarried and 
slept when he captured Potsdam. Adjoin- 
ing Frederick's bed room is a room where 
he used to dine alone or with some 
particular friend, without any attend- 
ance, every thiDg coming through the floor 
ia a dumb waiter, he placing the dishes on 
a table himself. Opposite the royal palace 
is the Nicholas church, surmounted by a 
splendid dome. The front of the church 
portico is ornamented with a bas-relief of 
the "Sermon on the Mount." The in- 
terior we found to be magnificently decor- 
ated. We entered the Garrison church 
where the military attend. The pulpit and 
walls are adorned with numerous French 
standards and eagles, also with other flags 
and banners captured in the war of 1870-1. 
There is a vault under the pulpit which we 
entered and saw a plain sarcophagus in 
which repcse the remains of Frederick the 
Great. Napoleon I, carried off his sword, 
which formerly laid upon the top of his 
coffin. The vault also contains the mar- 
ble sarcophagus of William I, father of 
Frederick the Great. The walls are cov- 
ered with old paintings and tablets. Behind 
the pulpit we saw the uniform worn dur- 
ing the wars of 18)3-15. We drove to 
Sans Souci, built by Frederick on heights 
planted with vines, olives and orange 
trees. It is a series of low, unpretending 
buildings with a beautiful colonnade. Here 
Frederick died, and we were taken into the 
room and shown a clock he used to wind 
up with his own hand and which, it is 
stated, stopped just at the moment he died. 
At the end of the terrace we saw the graves 
of his horses and dogs. 



We were taken into an apartment occu 
pied by Voltaire, when the guest of Fred- 
erick. Its walls are covered with carica- 
tures illustrating the French philosopher's 
habits and character. We enjoyed the 
picture gallery and lingered long before the 
most celebrated, a Christ's head by Ra- 
phael, for which the guide said Frederick 
paid 80,000 ducats. There is an immense 
wind mill contiguous to the palace, built so 
long ago as to be historic. We asked for 
its history; it was told us as follows : "It 
was owned and used by a miller. Freder- 
ick desired to buy it, the miller refused to 
sell, and the King brought suit against him 
but was beaten in the court. Then Fred- 
erick erected for the miller the present 
large mill as a monument of Prussian 
justice. After several years the owner sold 
the mill to the king, who announced that 
the mill belonged to Prussian history and 
should not be removed." In the grounds 
stands a villa, Gharlotenhof ; it is an imita- 
tion of Pompeian dwelling, with a bath, 
fountains, statues and bronzes taken from 
Pompeii. At the entrance to this park is 
the Church of Peace, a model of St. Cle- 
ment's church in Rome ; it was interesting 
because it contained the last great painting 
of Rauch, "Moses supported by Aaron and 
Hur praying for victory over the Amalek- 
ites." We passed out ol> this park saying 
that it was very beautiful and the view 
from the palace beyond description. Go- 
ing by a fountain, surrounded by twelve 
statues, among which was a Venus, 
we next drove to the new pal- 
ace erected by Frederick The Great in 
1865, after the seven years war at an 
enormous expense to show his enemies the 
very large wealth he commanded. Some 
of the rooms are beyond description in the 
profusion and richness of the marble used ; 
one room is entirely lined with shelh and 
minerals stuck on the walls to represent a 
grotto. There are many elegant old paint- 



ings ; a theatre, a marble saloon. We saw 
in the library a copy of the king's own 
works, with notes and criticisms in the 
hand writing of Voltaire. This palace is 
now used as the summer residence of the 
present Emperor. Facing this palace is 
an immense building called the Covumuns, 
used as a barracks for trained infantry. Ail 
the food for the palace is prepared in a 
large building near the barracks, and taken 
through an underground passage to the 
dining rooms of the palace, as it would not 
do to have the odor of cooking permeate 
the residence of royalty. Close by is a 
small temple which contains a beautiful 
statue of Louisa, a queen of Prussia ; it is 
life size and represents her asleep. We 
were driven to Babelsburg, a modern castle, 
beautifully furnished and lovely grounds § 
We saw here magnifi ent portraits of the 
royal family of England, and many fine 
specimens of the princess imperial's pencil ; 
were shown all the public and private 
rooms of royalty. They contained many 
curious articles and gave evidence that 
kings and princes lack for nothing that is 
in any way calculated to gratifiy their 
wants of whatever nature. We viewed the 
Russian colony founded in 1826 by Fred- 
erick William III for the use of 
Russian singers, who were at thbt 
time attached to the First Regiment of 
Guards. There are eleven houses built in 
complete Russian style and are curious 
looking—low, with thatched roofs and many 
windows. Near them is a Greek chapel ; 
the Russian religious service is witnessed 
here. 

Our long service at sight-seeing and 
noting down for this letter, produced a de- 
sire for refreshment, and we were driven to 
a chateau, surrounded by a park and gar- 
den. I i the grounds, saw a hunting lodge 
formerly used by Frederick the Great, 
which has been restored to its original 
beauty, and is now occupied by Prnce Leo- 
pold. A good dinner and rest made us 



ready for our return to Berlin, which 
we reached in time for attendance at 
the opera. We go from Berlin to 
Eisenach, a distance of about 200 miles, a 
town rendered famous from the fact that 
Martin Luther was detained a prisoner in 
its Castle of Wartburg several months. 
Here I leave my son in a German family ; 
I go on via Vienna to Trieste, at the north 
of the Adriatic sea, and will take a tour 
through Egypt and Palestine, and return 
to Italy the last of April. 

It may be thought that Americans in 
foreign lands forget the great holidays of 
their nativity. Not so; on the contrary, 
their return is more vividly impressed on 
their memory. Here on Washington's 
birthday American patriotism was made 
manifest at the Hotel Reichs-Hof. A bril- 
liant and numerous company assembled to 
commemorate tha anniversary of the birth 
of George Washington, whose bust occu- 
pied the middle of the platform, tastefully 
decorated with two American flags, and 
foilage in the background. The exercises 
opened with a few words from the Rev 
Dr. Dickie of the America© church, fol 
lowed with a musical program rendered by 
soloists with much warmth and feeling. 
The orchestra, hidden iu a bower of shrubs 
and foilage, struck up directly afterwards 
the lively music of a waltz which kept the 
fair ladies and gentlemen whirling round 
to the cheerful strains of their lovely music 
till nine o'clock His Excellency the 
American Ambassador, Gen Runyon, with 
wife and family, arrived, and were greeted 
with a musical welcome by the orchestra. 
Gen Runyon thanked the company for 
their large attendance and expressed pleas- 
ure at being in the midst of so many patri- 
otic Americans in a foreign country to do 
honor to the memory of the great Ameri- 
can and patriot, who was never surpassed 
by any one in any other country. Gen. 
Runyon informed the company that the i 



ladies committee had provided refresh- 
ments at the buffet for a moderate charge, 
and which were patronized to the fullest 
extent, being of an exquisite character and 
great variety. The toilets of the ladies 
were more than usual of a very chaste and 
charming style,— a lovely sight to behold, 
and will remain a pleasant souvenir for 
every one who was present, whether dancer 
or not 

a. l. u. 



GERMAN AND AUSTRIAN CIHES 



EISENACH, DRESDEN, PRAGUE 
AND VIENNA. 



SOME STORIES ABOUT LUTHER— ART IN' 
DRESDEN— PRAGUE AN UNIQUE CITY 
—THE MAGNMoENCE AND BEAUTY 
OP YIENNA. 



Editorial Correspondence. 

Eisenach von Sachen, » 
March 8th, 1895 / 

We came to this old capital yesterday 
and find that it is a very romantic place. It 
is the principal town in the Thuringen 
forest, and has been rendered famous from 
the fact that Martin Luther was confined a 
prisoner here in the Castle of Wartburg, 
situate near the town. I view it as I 
am writing, and it presents a very pictur- 
esque appearance, as it stands upon the 
highest elevation here, and it is mountain- 
ous. Luther lived here, and visitors are 
shown an old dwelling which they are told 
was his home. 

On the 4th of March, 1521, as Luther 
was returning to his home from the Diet of 
Worms, where in defiance of all threats and 
the Pope's excommunication, he had boldly 
proclaimed the Protestant religion, as he 
was entering the borders of the forest with 
his party, they were attacked by a party of 
armed Knights and dispersed ; he alone 
was made prisoner. He was taken to the 
Castle of Wartburg, where he discovered 
the whole affair had been managed by 
order of his friend, the Elector of Saxony, 
who was present at the Diet when he left 



Although the Emperor Charles V. had 
given Luther assurance of safety, a decree 
for his arrest was instantly sent after him, 
and his sentence of death decided on. The 
Elector's band reached him before the war- 
rant of arrest had been served, and Luther 
was carried in secret to Wartburg where 
he remained for ten months. He cultivated 
mustaches, they told us, and passed as a 
young nobleman at the castle, and was 
screened by the Elector of Saxony until the 
fury of the storm had passed. We visited 
the castle and the room which Luther occu- 
pied. In it is his picture and that of his 
father and mother. 

Besides the above historical fact, this 
story was told us : " This room is the scene 
of his conflict with satan. The evil one ap- 
peared before him gnashing his teeth, threat- 
ening him with vengeance, whereupon 
Luther, who had defeated his foes with pen 
and ink, thought he would try the ink 
alone on the devil, and seizing the ink- 
stand he hurled it with great force at the 
head of his satanic majesty," hitting his— 
imagination and the wall— making a greater 
impression on the latter than satan did on 
the former. This hole in the wall is now 
shown visitors. 

The castle is very old, having been built 
in the 10th century, but is now restored 
and used as a summer residence by one of 
the royalty. There is a great opportunity 
for a scenic painter in and around the castle, 
and it has been improved, as there are beau- 
tiful oil and water-color paintings shown of 
the same. The castle contains many beau- 
tiful suits of armor, which are shown 
visitors. 

The English language is taught in the 
high schools here, the pupils being taught 
to pronounce English words by sentences 
and are told their meaning. French is also 
taught in the same way. We see here 
primitive sleighs and wagons, and the 
women carry baskets on their backs filled 



with their purchases, or goods to be deliv- 
ered. Men and boys hitch themselves to 
carts and wagons and form teams of two 
and four-in-hand, drawing heavy loads up 
and down the hills. It looks strange 
enough to our eyes, and is really novel in 
appearance ; they make good time in their 
work, and haul heavy loads. Every sled 
or cart has a pole fastened at one side ; the 
horse or man and dog, or team of men, 
are hitched to a whifnetree and a strap from 
the end of the pole goes around the neck, 
and thus the vehicle is guided in the road- 
way. The scene is really primitive. 

I leave for an Egyptian and oriental 
tour at noon today, leaving my son here 
for instruction in the German language. 
He lives in a German family, and will in 
due time be able to speak and write it flu- 
ently. 

Vienna, Austria, \ 
March, 13, 1895. f 

My railway ride carried me to Dresden, 
where I had very pleasant accommodations. 
My hotel was one of the best and afforded 
opportunity to witness German life in its 
best phase. I had engagf d a guide, and he 
proved a good one. Dresden is situate in 
the very heart of Germany, and its sur- 
roundings gave evidence of the most ex- 
quisite scenery. Generations of accom- 
plished and artistic minded princes have 
through many past generations enriched the 
galleries and museums with valuable col- 
lections of paintings and other treasures 
and rarieties of all kinds. This has made 
Dresden the favored rendez v^ous for strang- 
ers ot every nation. The city has a popu- 
lation of 800,000 and lies very prettily in a 
valley of the Elbe, on either side ranges of 
hills ; to the north, a large forest ; whilst 
the picturesque and more mountainous 
parts on the Elbe's right bank, are covered 
with villa settlements, vineyards and orch- 
ards; and altogether, the exquisite scenery, 
in which hill ard valley, field and forest, 



meadow and river follow each other in one 
ever changing kaleidoscope, make this part 
of Saxony for tourists a little paradise. It 
can be safely said that the artistic tastes of 
a great number of Saxon princes have ren- 
dered Dresden a perfect treasury of art, 
which offer connoisseurs and artists every 
opportunity for study and enjoyment. We 
enjoyed the picture gallery, said to be the 
finest collection in Germany, about 3,000 
pictures. Some of them are famous, es- 
pecially Raphael's " Madona di San Sisto ;" 
a room is set apart for this picture. There 
are a dozen others, which have great note 
among artists. To our eyes the gallery is 
far superior to the one in Berlin. The 
historical museum was also interesting, as 
the collection is the richest of its kind in 
Germany, with arms and armor of ancient 
days, and numerous relics of departed roy- 
alty. The so-called " Green Vault3 " in 
the Royal Palace took considerable of our 
time ; they contain over 3,000 artistic ob- 
jects, shown in eight rooms. There are 
bronzes, ivory carvings, mosaics, shells, 
corals, etc.; objects in gold and silver, en- 
graved stonts and precious objects of crystal 
and wood carviDgs. One room is filled 
with objects of the greatest value in ala- 
baster, in jewels, pearls and sculptures. A 
large number are carved in ebony and 
ivory ; pearls are transformed into gro- 
tesque personages ; a golden egg inclosing 
a golden fowl. The mt st interesting is the 
Court of the Great Mogul, a group in gold 
and enamel upon a plate of silver four feet 
four inches square, of 132 persons. Our 
guide translated the inscription for us. It 
said the artist with his family and 14 work- 
men were eight years making it, and were 
paid $20,000 for their work. In glass cases 
are all the jewels of royalty that have been 
handed down for many generations. It is 
a grand display of jewels and precious 
stones, sapphires, emeralds, rubies and 
pearls ; also diamonds, one brilliant of 40 
carets. "We saw the royal carriages, some | 



200 in number from the oldest once used 
by Napoleon to the modern ones of great 
splendor. We entered several churches 
but were particularly pleased with the Rus- 
sian church on account of its decorations 
and glass paintings. We were permitted 
to enter the priest's holy room where no fe- 
male is allowed to step, and looked over 
the vestments and jewels which are of great 
value. The church is the gift of a wealthy 
Russian lady and cost a very large sum of 
money. The Roman Catholic church, fin- 
ished in 1776, has a very handsome sac- 
risty. Under it are the vaults of the 
royal family ; 64 statues of saints adorn the 
aisles. The Royal Palace we found a 
beautiful home. The banquet hall has 
many celebrated frescoes ; the tower room 
a rich collection of old Saxon, Chinese and 
Japanese porcelain, and the ballroom many 
more elegant frescoes. The throne room is 
the same as in the day of Augustus the 
Strong, who decorated it at an enormous 
cost. 

Dresden is a very clean city and has very 
many beautiful monuments which are 
placed so as to attract the attention of visit- 
ors. There is a handsome opera house 
which is open seven days in the week, in 
fact that is the rule throughout all Germany 
and Austria. Then there are immense 
libraries, numerous palaces for the members 
of the royal family and an immense park 
called " grosser garten," in which are mu- 
seums, watering places used in summer for 
boating and in winter for skating. At all 
these places are beer gardens, which are 
filled with people enjoying that beverage, 
for every one drinks beer in thiB country. 
I have learned that there are double the 
number of people engaged in manufactures 
to those engaged in agriculture. There are 
also excellent schools which have raised the 
education of the masses to a high moral 
standard. 



I stopped at Prague, the capital of Bohe- 
mia, situate in a basin and surrounded 
on all sides by rocks and eminences, upon 
the slopes of which the buildings rise tier 
after tier as they recede from the water's 
brink. It is a queer place, especially the 
old Jewish quarter, where ihe streets are 
mere alleys. There is an old Jewish syna- 
gogue, said to have been standing for 
one thousand years. We saw a stone in 
the cemetery bearing date of the sixth cen- 
tury, and many singular tombs of ye an- 
cient day*. We passed over the city's 
celebrated stone bridge, begun in the 14th 
and finished in the 16ih century. It is 
1850 feet long, and is ornamented on each 
side with 28 statues of saints, a lofty tower 
at each end. In the centre is a bronze 
statue of a celebrated priest, who was 
drowned in the river by a King because he 
would not betray the secrets which the 
queen had intrusted him at confession. 
We looked over the cathedral of St. Vitus, 
finished in 1486. It is an interesting old 
church and a complete museum of curiosi- 
ties. Our guide pointed out the following : 
A beautifully executed monument of white 
marble erected as a tomb for Bohemian 
kings ; a gorgeous silver shrine, weighing 
4,000 pounds, in which, in a silver and 
crystal coffin, is the body of the priest, St. 
John, who is spoken of above ; around the 
shrine silver lamps are continually burning. 
There are a large number of tombs in the 
church, in which lie the bones of former 
members of the royal family or noted priests 
of past ages. There are many curious rel- 
ics, among which are some of the bones of 
Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, a piece of the 
Saviour's cross, two thorns from the dying 
Saviour's crown, one of the palm branches 
over which he rode, the pocket handker- 
chief of the Virgin Mary, and a bridal robe 
worked by Austria's former queen, Maria 
Theresa, into a mass robe, etc. I presume 
I will be shown any quantity of such 
■■ relics " in all the Catholic cities. 



The architecture of Prague is oriental 
and its numerous domes, spires and turrets 
are ever noticeable. In a tower in the old 
part of the city, we saw a Jewish clock also 
a clock to whicn windows are attached ; 
they open every fifty minutes and movable 
figure3 representing the betrayal of the 
the Saviour, appear and go through the 
scenes seen by most of our readers in the 
Engle clock in America. 

The Bohemian museum here has an in- 
teresting relic. It is the autograph chal- 
lenge of John Huss which was affixed to 
the gate of the University of Prague. 
Huss, it will be remembered, was associated 
with the English reformer, Wycliffe, in an 
endeavor to reform the church. He op- 
posed the worship of the virgin and saints 
as idolatry, and suffered martyrdom for his 
opinions. His followers retaliated by mak- 
ing war, and the churches in Prngue are 
not very attractive because frescoes were 
defaced and beautiful painted windows de- 
stroyed. 

Vienna, or Wein, as it is called here, 
pronounced Vene, is a great city, nearly I 
two million people. It is the seat of an j 
empire of seventeen provinces, in which 
dwell forty millions of people. The gov- 
ernment is an hereditary and almost abso- 
lute monarchy ; the chief legislative as well 
as the executive power is in the hands of I 
the emperor. Three-fourths of the people 
are followers of the Roman Catholic church. 
Military life places very large numbers of 
the people und^r arms, the army number- 
ing nearly one million soldiers. We found 
a changed dialect here from Berlin or 
Prague, and each province is said to have a 
different dialect. The women of Vienna 
are noted for their fair complexion and fine 
features ; this is of the best class I see 
great numbers who appear only as carriers 
of burdens, as in Germany. The city is 
built in circular form, being twelve miles 
in circumference. There is one street called 






Ring-strasse, in the form of a noise shoe, 
the square of the shoe a waterway. It is 
very wide, and thus gives beautiful per- 
spective to the magnificent imperial and 
public buildings which are on either g.de, 
the sight of which surpasses any view we 
have ever beheld. The costly marble 
buildings which have been recently erected 
on the Ring by Emperor Joseph are said to 
be more elegant than in any other European 
city. There are also numerous fine prome- 
nades and two extensive parks in which are 
seen the elegant equippages of the city, 
with their richly dressed occupants. In 
one of the parks is the exhibition palace of 
1873, now used for a sort of museum. 
There is a large zoological garden and 
music halls in the park. One reason why 
the city is prosperous is because nearly two 
hundred families of princes, counts and 
barons have their residence here most all 
the year and spend immense sums of money. 
Music and the drama is greatly patronized, 
and it is said that Mozart, Hay den and 
Beethoven composed their best music here 
The city has many monuments which 
are very handsome. The finest one was 
unveiled by the emperor amid great pomp 
in 1868. It is known as the Maria Theresa 
monument ; she was a former empress and 
very popular. The site of the colossal 
statue is an imposing one. The great em- 
press is represented in a sitting posture, her 
right arm extended toward the palace in 
front, in her left a sceptre. The monument 
was erected at the emperor's private ex- 
pense, and is of majestic proportions. 
Standing out boldly from the centre piece 
are equestrian figures representing the four 
greatest generals of her reign . The i n scrip- 
tions are brief. In front, " Maria Thresa ;" 
behind, "erected by Franz Joseph I , 1888." 
Four allegorical figures— Strength, Wis- 
dom, Justice and Clemency — surmount the 
side pillars. The walls of the main pedes- 
tal are adorned with reliefs of the most cel- 
ebrated personages of that age. It is the 



most costly monument in the empire. In 
the city are many costly churches. St. 
Stephen's cathedral the finest. It is an ele- 
gant gothic building of imposing dimen- 
sions. The interior is rich in sculpture 
and stained glass. One monument over 
the remains of Frederick II. is decorated 
with 240 figures and representations of forty 
coats of arms. We entered the vault in 
the Capuchin church under the guidance of 
one of the brothers. Here are all the sarco- 
phagi of royalty for centuries past. Here 
lie the remains of the son of the great 
Napoleon of France. There are coffins of 
pure silver. Over 90 caskets are to be seen. 
In the Church of the Augustines is Canova's 
masterpiece, a monument of Archduchess 
Christine. It is a marble pyramid 30 feet 
high, in the centre of which is an opening, j 
representing the vault entrance. This is 
reached by two broad marble steps, which 
are the base of the pyramid. Ascending the 
steps is a figure representing Virtue bearing 
an urn, which contains the ashes of the de- 
ceased. Two little girls by her side are 
bearing torches; behind them is a figure ■ 
of Benevolence supporting an old man 
bowed down by age and grief. A little 
child accompanies him, tne very picture of 
innocence and sorrow. On the other side is a 
most perfect figure of a mourning angel, a 
sleeping lion crouching at his feet. Over 
the vault entrance is a medallion of the 
Arch Duchess held up by Happiness, while 
another figure presents her with a palm, 
indicative of success. The Imperial build- 
ings in the city are imposing, covering a 
large area of ground. The jewel depart- 
ment was unusually interesting. Among 
the religious relics is a table-cloth used at 
the Last Supper, The libraries and 
museums are very extensive, embracing all 
the departments known to history, science I 
and art. The Houses of Parliament are I 
in Greeian style, surmountel by bronze 
groups, and reached by a raised carriage 



way to a portico supported by piliars. The 
interior is richly decorated with frescoes 
and marble tabling The city has a town 
hall adjoining the Parliament, that cost 
$6 ; 000,000. It is in Gothic style, a quad- 
rangular edifice, burmounted by four 
lower towers, and a central tower of great 
height, and is adorned with galleries 
balconies, bay windows, statuary and ex- 
quisite stone carviDg. Tne interior is more 
beautiful — marble staircases lead to a great 
council room, where the most elaborate 
frescoes charm the beholder. Then there is 
the Exchange, the University, the most 
elegant opera house in the world, recently 
built by the Emperor, having magnificent 
marble side staircases, the promenades 
adorned with portraits of the greatest 
actors, and elegantly frescoed ceilings, the 
whole original and in exquisite taste and of 
dazzling splendor. 

We visited the summer palace of the 
Emperor, and found him looking over the 
grounds, which are very extensive. He is 
a very plain looking man of 65 years, talj 
and stately. He speaks to all, and shows 
no outward sign of his exalted position ; 
svae that his insignia is seen, and his royal 
carriage has a gaudily dressed livery and 
elegant horses. Some tine pictures and 
portraits adorn this palace, and the furni- 
ture is the richest I have yet seen. The 
gardens are beautifully laid out, with high 
hedges along the long avenues. There are 
numerous small temples and fountains and 
monuments in the gardens. a l. tj. 






FROM VIENNA 

TO CAIRO. 



THE STYRIAN ALPS-ADELSBDR6 AND 
ITS BEAUTIFUL GROTTO. 



Trieste at High-Tide— The Yoyage to 

Alexandria— A Glimpse at Life 
in Egypt. 



Cairo, Egypt, March 21, 1896. 
I have reached the land of the Pharaohs, 
calling to mind the scriptural quotation of 
Abraham, "Out of Egypt have I called my 
son." What strange sights do my eyes 
behold I Nearly every nation under the 
sun is represented here, among the thous- 
ands of Arabs of high and low degree. As 
I write I look out upon all that oriental 
life can portray — a clear sky, a bright sun, 
all nature clothed in green, flowers of every 
kind and hue in profusion, so much so that 
many dwellings are hidden by their beauty 
and fragrance. The street scene presents 
one entirely new and varied for an Ameri- 
can : one continual and unvaried stream 
of donkeys either led or being driven by 
Arabs, who accost you at every corner to 
either ride or buy their animal. Some of 
these are very good looking, have upon 
them good saddles, and are used very much 
by tourists, particularly as a novelty. The 
Arab owner, clothed in a light gown look- 
ing more like a night dress than any other 
garment, and bare-footed, will keep pace 
with his donkey, so that the rider will have 
good care and much amusement. They 



can be bought at from ten to twenty-five 
dollars ; but few buy as a good cab can be 
had with driver and two horses for fifty 
cents an hour. It is also a novel scene to 
witness the Arab married women as you 
pass them using their dark and piercing 
eyes in the effort to lopk you over from 
l behind their veils. They keep their faces 
covered below the eyes, the veil fastened 
; to a nose attachment, which keeps it in 
place. The unmarried go unveiled, and 
also, we are told, do many habitues ot the 
harems, which are numerous. But I will 
reserve Mohammedan life and Egyptian 
scenes for a future letter, and report my 
trip from the home of the Austrian Emper- 
or to that of the Egyptian Khedive. 

It was a pleasant morning when I left 
Vienna by rail for Trieste, the Austrian 
seaport, head of the Adriatic Sea. I would 
have enjoyed remaining longer in Vienna, 
for it is a beautiful city, but I had braved 
the winter snows of Germany and Austria, 
I thought, long enough, and. resolved to 
pee Egypt and have a tour up the Nile, 
amid sunshine and an entire change of 
landscape and people. If I recollect right- 
ly I closed my last letter with Vienna 
scenes. My railway ride to Trieste was 
very enjoyable, it being one of the most 
scenic routes in Europe ; the railway goes 
through Lower Austria, Styria, Carinthia, 
and the coast land. It crosses the Styrian 
Alps over its highest ranges — the Semmer- 
ing and the Karst. The scenery over and 
through these mountains is very fine; 
there is very little timber but a very great 
number ot valleys and high pinacles. The 
passage is a very interesting one ; for fif- 
teen miles numerous tunnels and viaducts 
lead the train through a wild and romatic 
landscape. The highest point of the rail- 
way is Semmering, 2,788 feet above the 
sea, and in reaching it we pass many beau- 
tiful passes between the mountain ranges 
reminding me of the valleys amid the can- 
yons in Colorado, America. When we 



reached Semmering station we entered a 
tunnel which is 4,600 feet long, and grad- 
ually descended to the river Murz, the 
railroad winding along its bank and 
through the mcst picturesque scenery, 
several castles being visible on high points, 
until we arrive at G-ratz, a large city, and 
the capital of Styria. The Alps present a 
magnificent view from this point. We 
noticed a large number of churches and a 
fine gothic cathedral. Our attention was 
called to one institution devoted to the 
encouragement of arts and manufactures in 
Styria by means of collections, lectures, 
and a very large public library. It is a 
town wherein centers a great proportion of 
Austrian-Hungary's trade and manufac- 
tures. We pass Cilia, an ancient town, 
said to have been founded by the Emperor 
Claudius. Near this town, from the rail- 
way, are seen old Koman ruins. We now 
enter more canyons deep in the mountains 
and, if possible, presenting the finest scen- 
ery of the line. It was grand and can 
never be forgotten. We pass into and 
through the valley of the Save river and 
soon after over a viaduct 1,600 feet long 
and 1,600 feet high, affording a grand view 
of the valley. There are quicksilver mines 
in this locality, also a lake which is re- 
markable for the disappearance of its 
waters for months at a time, during which 
interval the inhabitants cultivate buck- 
wheat in its bed. 

We stopped at Adelsburg, noted for a 
beautiful grotto The visitor finds his 
best expectations gratified, as the cave pre- 
sents huge and beautiful rose-tinted sta- 
lacties glistening like diamonds, a cathed- 
ral or cupola, a cascade, and various figures 
representing a virgin, a tomb, a pavilion, 
natural bridges, trees, and numerous sights 
which cannot be described, but are indel- 
ibly fixed in our memory. At Whitsun- 
tide a grand festival is held in this grotto 
when 10,000 candles are used for illumina- 



tion, the occasion always attracting visitors 
from all parts of Europe. There are sever- 
al other caverns here, also a lake which 
empties its waters in thirty days and fills 
again in as many hours. 

From here we hastened on to Trieste, the 
commercial capital of the Austrian Empire. 
All the principal European nations are 
represented by consuls here. We noticed 
manufactures and shipbuilding ; a canal 
enables vessels of all kinds to reach th< 
town and unload. There is a large mole of 
masonry which protects the shippiDg. The 
population presents an appearance very 
much oriental, its people being Italians, 
Greeks, Armenians, Jews, Germans and 
some Americans. The town is placed 
mostly upon the hill sides which form the 
sea surroundings ; here are the residences, 
I many of which are very beautiful. On 
the hill near a castle stands a cathedral 
which, they tell visitors, occupies the site 
of a temple of Jupiter. It is in the Byzan- 
tine style and dates back to the fourth 
century. There are several tombs in the 
building, one, that of Don Carlos, who 
aspired to the throne of Spain. He died 
here in 1865. They present different styles 
of designs but are not very remarkable. 
The finest church contains a magnificent 
altar and a very large organ ; both are 
Catholic and mass is being said at all 
hours. The Jesuits also have a church 
which contains some very fine paintings. 
The ill-starred Emperor Maximilian, of 
Mexican fame, had a castle here which he 
used as a summer resort. It has about it a 
beautiful park and a museum of Greek 
and Egyptian antiquities and is now shown 
to visitors. It has many interesting feat- 
ure*. 'The day we reached Trieste the 
plaza of the town on which our hotel was 
and most of the public buildings there was 
an inundation of the sea. The whole dis- 
trict was suddenly flooded by waves rising 
to a height of two or three feet. The hotel 
floor had a foot of water over it, but as it is 



stone— as are all buildings and the streets 
paved with flat stones— it did no damage. 
The theatre building was surrounded by 
water just at its close. The water rushed 
in from the vestibule to the passages and 
finally to the floor of the house. Both 
sexes took off their shoes and stockings and 
waded through the water. Similar scenes 
were witnessed in cafes, which are always 
crowded that hour. Owners of wheelbarrows, 
which are used extensively here for carting, 
made small fortunes by transporting ladies 
in distress ; the tide receded after a three 
hours stay. I have forgotten to note that 
the buildings on the agricultural lands, seen 
on the way from Vienna to Trieste, have a 
very different appearance from any seen in 
America. They are built of stone and 
made smooth outside by being plastered 
with a yellow clay. They are nearly all 
one story, with very steep roofs, from which 
are built projections for attic windows; 
the roofs covered with a sort of tile ; they 
all look very old. I notice many ox teams 
and a few good horses. There are no 
fences; a hedge or a line of small trees shows , 
the division of farms. There was an 
occasional shock of corn in the fields, but 
no signs of hay ; the work being done was 
the placing of fertilizer on the fields pre- 
paratory to spring work. 

The sea voyage from Trieste to Alexan- 
dria in Egypt occupied nearly four days on 
the steamer "Vorwaerts" of the Austrian- 
Lloyd line. I obtained a good loca- 
tion on the upper deck, giving full view of 
the shores of Italy, Austria, Hungary and 
the Grecian isles. It was a pleasure also 
to find among the passengers people from 
Chicago, flew York city, Georgia and 
London, which gave opportunity for con- 
versation and social intercourse. We 
enjoyed the lovely sunrise and sunsets, and 
save one day had good weather. We were 
sometimes viewing the Dalmatian coast of 
Turkey, and again the coast of Italy, upon 



which are situate many beautiful towns. 
We stopped at Brindisi on the lower coast 
of Italy to receive the European mail for 
Africa, which gave opportunity to send 
letters to our American friends, that we 
were parting with Europe for home of the 
Arab and the Mohammedan. We view 
the rocky shores of the Ionian isles, Cepha- 
lonia and Zante, also Candia or Crete, and 
reach Alexandria, Africa, just as a brilliant 
sun is dipping the waters of the sea. 

Here was a scene. It took an hour . to 
get on shore amid the most importunate of 
human beings, the Alexandria donkey- 
drivers. We thought we had seen confus- 
ion in Niagara Falls among the hackmen 
but these fellows are ahead of them. They 
will hem you in on every side, backing 
their donkeys at you, and most tourists 
find that the only possible way to get rid 
them is to mount one which will cost about 
one piastre, or five cents ; but when you 
reach your hotel the price has been raised 
to ten piastres, or fifty cents. As I had 
anticipated such confusion I had provided 
myself with a landing ticket, which called 
for my being met by an agent, who came 
on the steamer, took my baggage and enter- 
ing a hack we were soon at the hotel. It 
was a beautiful sight as the steamer neared 
the level shore of Egypt. Gradually we 
saw a column rising up out of the sea and 
standing upon the horizon, faintly marked 
against the liquid sky. Next, swarms of 
windmills emerge from the same watery 
bed ; then to the left rose the pasha's pal- 
ace and the lofty harem, while the sandy 
desert plains fill up the vacancy. Then 
the eye beholds a tall column known in 
history as Pompey's Pillar. Our readers 
who are students of history will remember 
that Alexandria was founded by Alexander 
"the Great 332 years before Christ, more 
than two thousand years ago, and thankful 
am I that I have walked its streets, locked 
over what remains of its antiqueties, and 
behtld its mixed population, consisting of 



besides the natives, Turks and Arabs, of 
Armenians, Greeks, Syrians, Maltese and 
Europeans of every nation. At least one- 
half of the population dress as do Ameri- 
cans, the other half in the gown worn by 
the Arabs of the plains. The Arabian 
part of the city is very interesting. We 
were piloted through its narrow, winding 
streets, into the stores or bazaars, and wit- 
nessed the people buying and selling. Such 
a motley crowd ; every hue of complexion 
from the dark Nusbian of Upper Egypt to 
the nearlv white and Indian or copper 
colored Egyptian. The shops display every 
style of garment known to the human 
family, from the Parisian bonnet to the 
flowing gown of the Arab. Turbans are 
seen, but many Arabs wind their heads 
with cloths of gergeous colors. There are 
Mosques, but they are old and delapidated 
and are curious structures. I saw none 
worth describing. There are hundreds of 
stately palm trees that tower as high as 
the elms and maples in front of our Bath 
homes, having a few branches shooting from 
their tops arrayed in green. 

Our guide was a Syrian. He spoke good 
English, and we went to his home, and 
met the family. They viewed us with cu- 
rious eyes and we saw a new phase of life 
indeed. His garden of fruits of every kind 
grown here from the fig to the banana, was 
interesting, and by means of irrigation pro- 
duces an immense crop of fruits and vege- 
tables which yields a large revenue from 
sales in the Alexandria markets. We 
looked over an Arabian cemetery —all above 
ground, and the catacombs, which are now 
but vacant tombs, their contents having 
long ago been removed. About the only 
relic of antiquity remaining here is Pom- 
pey's Pillar. It is about one hundred feet 
high with a base ten feet in diameter. It 
is of red polished granite. The Cleopatra 
needle seen in Central Park in New York, 
stood on the seashore here, and was giv« n 



to America by Mehemet Ali. It is over 
3,000 years old. The center of European 
Alexandria is known as the grand equare of 
the Consuls. At each extremity is a foun- 
tain. It is a sight at sunset to witnf ss the 
Arabs performing their ablutions— modesty 
does not enter into their ideas of propriety 
The palace built by Mehemet Aii faces the 
sea, surrounded by beautiful gardens. It 
has a grand staircase of Carara marble, also 
a very large audience room in circular form. 
There is a wealthy Greek merchant here 
who has extensive gardens and grounds, 
with a beautiful residence therein. He al- 
lows visitors to enter and look over the 
same. It reminded us of the home of Mr 
Sutro of San Francisco, in its design and 
interior, but is not as elegant. Flowers of 
every kind were abundant and a rose with a 
jessamine flower was handed us as a memento 
of our call. Having seen all we cared to of 
Alexandria we came by rail to Cairo, a dis- 
tance of 131 miles. We rode by daylight, 
passing the clay settlements of the Arabs, 
who till the soil for planters. The land 
the entire distance is as level as a floor, and 
with irrigation from the Nile it is made to 
yield abundantly, Sheep, donkeys and 
camels were numerous, and ploughmen 
using cattle hitched to primitive wooden 
plows were busy stirring the soil. 

a. l. u. 



A TRIP UP THE NILE. 

ST 

THE PEOPLE - THE RAPIDS - THE 

RUDIS— TEMPLE- OF ISIS-DOBK- 

EY RIDING— IRRIGftTIOH. 



native's Life— Water Jars and Women 

—The Fnneral of Ismail Pasha— 

Summer Weather. 



[Editorial Correspondence.] 
Assouan, Egypt, April 1st, 1895. 
I have reached the home of the Nubians 
in Upper Egypt, 730 miles from the Medi- 
terranean Sea, and 680 miles from Cario. 
This town occupies the site of ancient Syene, 
mentioned by Ezekiel (chap, xxix, 10), as 
the southern frontier of Egypt. It wai 
once a very large place, but Persians, 
Arabs, Turks and Nubians have made it 
only a scene of desolation, so that we find 
it covered mostly by Arabic and Nubian 
huts, save that portion garrisoned by the 
British troops to defend Egypt from foes 
from the southern part of Nubia. There 
are a few Egyptians here, but the popula- 
tion of the town and surrounding country 
is nearly all Mahommedan Arabs or Nu- 
bian blacks. The Nile is impeded here in 
its smooth flow by a cataract with rocky 
bottom, and divides into various parts as it 
flows around the high rocky scenery that 
fills the valley. Eight cataracts are found 
in the Nile, but this one is mostly known. 
The noise made by the water is very great, 
but it is far from being a " Niagara." One 
ot the sights here is a view of the natives 
shooting the rapids, after diving into the 
stream, and apparently at the risk of their 



lives. They come out safely, however, and 
cry out for " backsheesh " (five or ten cents) 
as a reward for their daring. 

There are two islands which tourists 
visit, called " Elephantine," (the natives 
call this section the home of the elephant) 
and "Philae." There is another island 
called " Sehel," covered with ancient quar- 
ries. There is a circle block of granite 
there, nine feet high, inscribed with thirty- 
two lines of hieroglyphics ; they have been 
translated by an expert as a record of a fa- 
mous seven years' famine. The translation 
is shown as follows : "By misfortune the j 
very greatest, the Nile, during a period . 
lasting seven years, did not come forth j 
Scarce was grain, lacking was vegetable 
food— there was a dearth of everything 
which man ate." Whether this is a record 
of ihe seven years' famine recorded in the 
bible when Joseph was in Egypt, or some 
other famine, is not definitely ascertained. 
It shows, however, that a famine did exist. 
Joseph lived 1600 years before Christ, but 
the translator says this inscription is dated 
in the 18th year of a king living 4000 years 
before Christ. It is necessary to bear in 
mind that all history of ancient Egypt is 
recorded in hieroglyphics, engraved on the 
tablets, columns or walls of the stone of 
which the temples and tombs are made. 
The island called " Philae," a name given 
it by the Greeks and Komans, appears to be 
a solid granite rock, about one-fourth mile 
long, and was once covered with a majestic 
line of temples and colonnades— most of 
these are in ruins. Its principal ruin is 
known as the " Temple of lsis," (Isis was 
an Egyptian god). This ruin is seen in 
illustrated works on Egypt. It is not one 
of the oldest temples, its building being set 
down as about 300 years before Christ 
There was a handsome entrance to this 
temple from the river. We ascend a flight 
of marble steps, enter a double corridor, 
one has thirty-two pillars, the other sixteen. 



The corridor is succeeded by two immense 
pyramidal towers, gateways, staircases and 
chambers. At the end of one corridor is a 
chapel which our guide declared was built 
by the first Cleopatra. We pass to wen 
which look to be 60 feet high, ornamented 
with sculpture ; then into a large court and 
under a portico resting upon ten columns ; 
pass on into another portico, and view ten 
Columns having beatifully painted capitals ; 
round about are many small chambers and 
passages with secret openings. The walls 
and all the columns are covered with char- 
acters of Egyptian history ; some of them 
very handsome in design, and representing 
scenes in the lives of ancient kings. The 
scenery in and about this island, i9 very 
grand — not in the way of foliage or trees, 
but rocks of every conceivable form, piled 
upon one another, in such a way as to call 
forth admiration. There are large granite 
quarries adjoining the island. We saw in 
cne an obelisk, which had been nearly 
carved out of the granite. It is very large, 
12 feet square at base, and over 100 feet 
long. Why it was never removed is not 
known. The granite was very hard, and 
spots upon it showed it would polish beau- 
tifully, flow such a single block of marble 
could be removed passes our comprehension 
It was from this quarry that the obelisk 
now seen in Central Park, New York, 
formerly standing at Alexandria, was taken. 
Our excursions here, were made upon a 
donkey, accompanied by an dragoman and 
donkey boy (an Arab who trotted along 
just behind our donkey seeing that the ani- 
mal did not lag in his speed.) The boy 
spoke some English, so that we got along 
together very well, and the dragoman by 
our side, also on a donkey, who told us of 
the scenes of "ye ancient days," and 
pointed out the places of interest. The 
dragomen are Syrians, and are fairly well 
educated, and speak Arabic as well as 
Syrian and French or English. Our boy 
travels barefoot, wearing a blue gown, 



breachcloth and a turban on his head, 
which is simply a long, white cotton cloth 
about eight yards long, which he uses both 
as a body wrap and a turban. We 
passed through two ancient Arabic cem- 
eteries ; they place the body on the sand, 
wrapped in a cloth, lay stone all around it, 
and cover it with sand. Some have a slab 
over the tomb ; others, only the sand. We 
saw several having head-stones, and 
11 (June " characters thereon. This is a 
kind of writing in which ©Id copies of the 
Koran (the bible of Mahomet) are written. 
The winds have blown the desert sand in 
great quantities over parts of these cemete- 
teries, so as to almost obliterate them. 
There are several old tombs here which 
have been opened by officers of the English 
forces stationed at Assouan, but we did not 
visit them, as we were to look over the 
very ancient ones in ancient Thebes. These 
tombs were made for the Elephantine rulers 
who lived 3,000 years before the Christian 
era. When opened by the officejs they 
were found filled with broken coffins and 
mummies. They are now empty. 

We found nothing on the island, " Ele- 
phantine," worthy of mention, unless it is 
the ruins of an old Nilometer — a well, con- 
structed of close fitting stones on which are 
marked the greatest, least and mean risings 
of the Nile ; the water in this well and in 
the river riees and goes down simultaneously. 
The information gained here shows what 
may be looked for in the way of agriculture. 
as rain is unknown. All vegetation is de- 
pendent upon the waters of the Nile for 
irrigation, and it is the only source of wa- 
ter supply for domestic or culinary pur- 



The people around Assouan are large- 
ly Nubian and Soudanese, and caravans 
have made this point a place to dispose of 
the products of Abyssinia and Upper Ethi- 
opia for transmission to Cairo and Alex- 
andria. Therefore, the native bazar here 
proved interesting ; this is a street about 12 



feet wide, on either side stalls, ten or twelve 
feet square, in Which the dealer sits sur- 
rounded by his goods. In some are dry 
goods ; others, Arab clothing* Then come 
all the wants of the people in a nundred 
different varieties, from the slipper to the 
rings seen in the ears and nose, or on the 
fingers of the inhabitants. We pass a bak- 
ery, grocery, drink shop and smoking room. 
Mechanics and tailors are busy in their 
stalls ; even the hum of the sewing machine 
greets the ear. There are innumerable 
sellers of trinkets, representing ancient 
Egyptian days -all of which are recently 
manufactured. At every turn you are 
asked, in very good English, to look at 
goods and buy. If you do not buy, you are 
followed by an attache, who brings the 
article you looked at, and tries to get an 
offer from you for it.. The only way I 
could get rid of them was to offer for every- 
thing one " para " — a piece of Egyptian 
money, 8 of which amount to one cent of 
our money— at which they would laugh, 
and good naturedly depart. They all 
seemed to be contented and hap; 
account for it only because they have never 
known or seen any other mode of life than 
the animal life, which they lead. Camels, 
donkeys, sheep, goats, dogs and the people, 
all dwell together in earth-formed homes, 
dirt floors, dirt walls, dirt roofs— all flat 
with an air opening, through which the 
roof is reached. Around many roofs are 
bird houses, made of the same mud mate- 
rial. Bear in mind these are not the homes 
of the Egyptians, but of all other Africau 
races, which comprise nearly all the people 
known t>s Egyptian Arabs, numbering some 
8,000,000. The Copts or Christian Egyp- 
tians, who possess the intelligence and are 
the officials of Egypt, number some 800,- 
000 and dress os do Europeans, always 
wearing a red Fez hat, as an emblem of 
their people. These peoplo manage the 
railways, do the engineering and are men 



I of ability-in many ways. All others are 
I known as the poor class, who subsist by 
agriculture or labor in the sugar fac- 
tories, which are numerous. 

The Nile from Assouan south for two 
hundred miles, is between two ranges of 
hills which inclose the river closely. There 
are high, steep banks. So high that the 
river water is raised to the surface of the 
land by what the Arabs call a "sakia." 
This i3 a large wheel run on a tread-circle 
with two oxen (here they are called buffa- 
ks) having a lor g bolt reaching from the 
wheel to the river. "Water jars are fastened 
to the belt, and as it revolve* the jars dip 
up water which is poured from them, at 
the top of the wheel, into a canal through 
which the water flows and is distributed 
into the surrounding fields. Nearly all the 
water raised from the Nile, from Alex- 
andria to Assouan, is lifted by a 
" shadoof " — a pole, stone at one end ai.d 
bucket the other — worked across a hori- 
zontal bar, resting upon two wooden pil- 
lars. These are seen all along the Nile, 
generally two or three in line, one above 
the other. The Arabs stand and dip the 
lower bucket in the river, and when it 
raises to its highest point, turn the contents 
of the bucket in a pool. The second Arab 
dips from this, carrying the water up anoth- 
er lift, and a third dips from the second 
pool lifting the water to the canal. Why 
all do not use the first described machine I 
do not know, but it is said that the labor of 
three men costs less than the work done by 
the " buffaloes." There are so many 
Arabs it is the only way that all can be 
provided with work to sustain life. Very 
pretty it is to watch the water coursing 
along in its narrow groove as it leaves the 
canal and flows over the vast fields that line 
the banks of the Nile, nourishing every 
inch of the land over which it pours. 

Some of these lands are so highly culti- 
vated as to produce three harvests. First, 



wheat or barley is sown. "When that har- 
vest is gathered in a sowing with millet or 
indigo takes place. After that has been 
reaped, the ground is again sown with mil- 
let or maize. Since the introduction ol 
sugar factories, one of the crops is sugar 
cane. We visited one factory and saw its 
workings, which is very similar to our 
American factories. Here the cane is 
brought in by camels, if near by ; if not, 
boats bring it to the factory and a hundred 
or more Arabs are Been carrying the cane 
from each boat on their arms to the mill. 

I have omitted to notice a novel sight 
seen when roaming about Assouan. 
We heard a great noise of shouting or sing- 
ing with pounding on •' tom-toms "—a sort 
of drum. When nearing the scene, a large 
number of Soudan blacks were found danc- 
ing. They formed a great ring, taking 
hold of hands, the music in the centre. 
The dance was simply circling round in the 
manner American children play " ring- 
around-a-rosy." They moved very swiftly 
over the sand, yelling some kind of sounds 
which they call a tune, but which to us 
was anything but pleasant to hear. There 
did not seem to be any time to stop and 
breathe, as they were at it when we arrived 
and when we left. This is said to be their 
only form of amusement. 

The reader must remember that the great 
feature of Egypt is the Nile river, without 
which the entire country would be a desert. 
The country's fertility is due entirely to the 
river's annual rise which flows over its 
banks and covers all the lands. Channels 
of artificial construction retain the water 
when the innundation has retired. This 
rising is of very ancient record, and has 
been the same for over 3,000 years. Every 
spot reached by the water, is a lovely light 
green color, unalterably green, save where 
the Arab mud villages lie in the midst of 
verdure, like the marks of a soiled foot 
upon a new carpet. All these villages are 



first seen by the minaret of a good siz d 
mosque, or the oval dome of a Sheik's tomb. 
The sand bars of the Nile are covered 
with a vast number of birds many witn 
beautiful plumage. I see ducks of all 
species, snipe, plover, white heron, and 
and pelicans innumerable. As the Nile 
abounds with fish, the pelican has great 
sport forcing the long bill with water bag 
attached into the water and capturing 
the unsuspecting fibh. Two young men 
of my party have spent considerable 
time hunting for foxes and jackals, and re- 
port good sport. We have feasted many 
days upon quail. They are a very 
small bird, about half the size of a small 
pigeon. We find two bites of meat on the 
breast and two on the legs. They are 
sweet to eat, but when we first saw them 
we re-called the old saying of " making two 
bites of a cherry." They are very plenti- 
ful and are caught by the Arabs in nets. 
They are said to be the same birds men- 
tioned in the bible in Exodus as hav 
ing supplied food to the Israelites in their 
journeyings through the wilderness. One 
American quail is as large as four of these. 

One of the industries that gives employ 
ment to many in the village is the manu- 
facture of water j ars. They are made of all 
sizes from holding a pint to ten or twenty 
gallons of water. The material is the clay 
of the soil bordering on the Nile. These 
jars are filled, the water filtering through 
the bottom into a vessel — after filtration, 
the water is again placed in another jar 
which sets in a bowl. This jar has a net 
work of clay in the neck, which keeps out 
flies or insects, the water keeping nice and 
cool. One of the sights is viewing the 
women going to the river, with their large 
water jars ; there they fill them, and hoist- 
ing them to their heads, keep them nicely 
balanced, until they reach their houses. 
Young girls use smaller jars for the same 
duty. The scene is precisely that of the 
days of Abraham in bible history. 



.ndertake, b y 



Going up the Nile is not u 
but very few of Egypt's tourists, as most of 
them are content to dwell in Cairo amid its 
gay and varied scenes. Most of those who 
do go prefer to ride in a dahabeaha, a boat 
going with sails, and provided with an out- 
fit for a four months tour. The tourist 
companies however, provide steamers, 
which go in much shorter time, and convey 
passengers to all the real points of interest. 
There is a railway also to Girgeh, 583 miles 
above Cairo. In due time this road will be 
finished to Assouan. 

As we went up the river, the first town of 
importance we saw was "Beni-Suef," 62 
miles above Cairo. It presented a pictur- 
esque group of mosques, domes and mina- 
rets and a handsome residence, occupied by 
the governor of the province. We steamed 
on to Minieh, viewing many buildings 
surrounded by date groves. Here are seen 
very large sugar factories, which employ 
over 2000 men. The export of sugar from 
Egypt is immense. There were also a 
large number of very large casks filled 
with "arrak," a rum made from the sugar- 
cane. Our next town was Beni-Eassan, 
where were seen the tombs, which are con- 
sidered the oldest monuments of Egypt, 
older than those of Thebes. They are orn- 
amented with figures in colors. They are 
hunting scenes, women playing musical in- 
struments, all kinds of trades are represent- 
ed, a barber shaving a man, women throw- 
ing up three balls and catching them at 
once ; one tomb has pictures of animals, 
tish and birds. Some of these grottoes have 
Doric columns that are nearly 16 feet high 
Hud five feet in diameter. What massive 
blocks of stone they are. Khoda was our 
next stop, in which is one of the official 
palaces. It is very beautiful, and is said to 
have cost a million dollars. Here also was 
another largo sugar factory, making brown 
sugar. We passed whnt are known as ihe 
'Crocodile Pus." It was here, that 6ever- 



al years ago, Mr. W. C. Prime of the New 
York Observer, obtained a large number of 
these mummies and took them to New 
York Our next stop was at Assiout, 
where American missionaries have a large 
cchool, educating the natives. They report 
good work ; certain it is ihat they have ac- 
quired considerable knowledge of English, 
if nothing more. "We passed on to Girg^-h, 
a town having a large population, largely 
Christian or Copt. This religion is a cor- 
mption of that of the days of St. Mark, 
who preached at Alexandria. These peo 
pie have lost all interest in ancient Chris- 
tian observances, but are known as Chris- 
tians, who believe in God, to separate them 
lrom the followers of Mahomet. 

We are now in the vicinity of the Ttm- 
ple ruins, which inductd us to visit Egypt. 
Near here is Abvdos, which at one time, 
ranked next to Thebes Commencing with 
the temple at Abydt.s, ihtre are found 
seventeen of these great structures, now 
opened or partly opened to view as we go 
up the Nile. They were all at one time 
buried under the earth and sand, and now 
on some of them, which are only partly un- 
covered, stand Arab huis and Mahomme- 
dan motquts. The government collects 
five dollars of every tourist to assist in de- 
fraying the expenses of uncovering. Any 
one can get permission to do such work, 
but must divide any profit obtained from 
the sale of relics found, with the govern- 
ment. We reserve our description of the 
temples until later, when we shall have 
teen them all. Our next stop was at Luxor. 
Here we remained four days, as ten temples 
and the 47 tombs of the kings are all reach- 
ed from here. This is the city known to 
the historian as Thebes. The country 
ehows a wide vailey, the Nile flowing 
gracefully between the high and rocky 
ranges of mountains on the east and west 
hide. Passing several towns at which we 
stopped, returning, we reached Assouan, to 



continue our journey to the cataract. This 
was done in one day by donkeys and daha- 
beah. We had reached the end of our 
Nile trip, and had seen enough of life in 
Egypt and its wonders, which, if fully 
written up, would fill a large volume. 

In going to the cataract we had crossed 
the Egyptian line and were in the land of 
the Nubians or Ethiopians or Negroes. 
The people here are very black, having 
the same features and hair as the blacks in 
America. The Soudan people seen here 
are very dark, but have long hair, which 
they braid in curls all around their heads. 
The boatmen who rowed us above Assou- 
an were a happy lot. We asked them to 
sing for us, which they did. The music 
had but four or five notes, the words a sort 
of groaning language that was far from 
being adapted to music. In rowing one 
would sound a note which would be follow- 
ed by a chorus by all. They closed their 
rowing by uttering the words "hip-hip, 
hurrah," over which we and they laughed 
heartily. They had been taught this by 
the English officers at the fort at Assouan. 
These people wear a ring in their right ear, 
placed at the top of the ear. They are 
inveterate beggars for "backsheesh" and 
our party awarded them a dime each — two 
piastres, Egyptian money. We had passed 
an interesting day and returned to our 
steamer for a night's rest. 

When 1 mailed my last letter I carelessly 
omitted a description of the funeral of the 
ex-Khedive, Ismail Pasha, at Cairo. It 
was of an imposing character and a sight 
not often witnessed. His remains now rest 
in Egyptian soil, he having been out of 
Egypt most of the time since his dethrone- 
ment, which took place in 1879, his son, 
Tevfik Pasha, succeeding him, and now 
reigns under the English rule. Ismail was 
given a royal burial by his countrymen. 
The funeral escort was a grand sight : 
Fust came a mounted police band, follow- 



ed by squads of cavalry and batteries of 
artillery ; next a deputation from the 
military schools with officers of the army 
on foot, the commander cf the Egyptian 
army and his staff following ; they came 
representatives of various Mahommedan 
religious bodies with the Fikis, public 
prayer reciters dervishes and others, native 
merchants and Egyptian notables, and a 
long line of English officials ; next came 
the Khedive, Tetfik Pasha, on foot, sup 
ported by the princes and the Ottoman 
commissioner ; the Khedivial officials fol- 
lowed, also bearers of the sacred rolls of 
the Koran ; then came the casket wrapped 
in cashmere, born on the shoulders of the 
Khedivial guards. Handsome swords were 
seen on the top of the casket. Then fol- 
lowed a battalion of Egyptian infantry 
with band and mounted police. This pro- 
cession was over a mile long and went to 
the Rifa Mosque, where the casket was de- 
posited. Of course all Cairo turned out to 
see the procession, so that an immense 
throng of spectators were formed all along 
the line of march. Two hours were occu- 
pied in its passage by the hotel, minute 
guns firing during that time. 

I hope to find time during my stop at 
Luxor (ancient Thebes) to pen another 
letter. It is summer here for us, the ther- 
mometer in-doors marks 85° and in mid- 
day out-doors over 100°, but we have 
enjoyed it. The air is so dry— not a sign 
of any moisture— that it is not at all un- 
comfortable. I hope the snow and ice has 
gone at home and that Advocate readers 
are also to be favored now with the genial 
sun's rays and fine weather. A. L. U. 



The Glories of Ancient Egypt. 

The Historical and Architectural Interest 
of the Ruined Structures. 



An Oriental Sunset— The Temples Along 
the Banks of the Nile— Were the Ancient 
Egyptians of the Caucasian Race. 



BY A, Ij. U^I>ERHII,L. 



Luxor, Egypt, April 8, 1895. 

Our steamer left Assouan in the cool of 
the evening amid soft, balmy and delight- 
ful air, the beauty of the scene being en- 
hanced by the glory of an oriental sunset. 
The sun seemed sinking as a ball of fire, 
followed by a mysterious crimson after- 
glow. As the bright red glory overspread 
the horizon, the spectacle was one of mar- 
velous grandeur. We beheld black rocks 
which glisten in the water and our pilot, 
with long pole in hand, marks the passages 
between them for our little steamer. As 
we left the dock, Egyptians, Turks, half 
naked Bisharees and Nubian blacks of vari- 
ous tribes were in view before us. Some of 
these are perfect specimens of manhood, 
and others the opposite, their skulls covered 
with greasy ringletted hair, dressed in hide- 
ous forms, and their large", perfect white 
teeth gleaming as they smile. Our last 
view of Assouan is through a labyrinth of 
acacia trees, their beatiful yellow seed- 
pods glistening in the sunset. 

In my last letter I gave a description of 
the old temple at Philae, on the rocky 



island of that name. Now I try to fulfil 
my promise to say something of the old 
Egyptian temple ruins between Assouan 
and Cairo, as I saw them in my wander- 
ings. Eirst, let me. recall to mind that 
the history of Egypt is the oldest history 
known to us, written upon papyrus and 
tablets of stone in cuneiform inscriptions 
and in cartouch. The cartouch is an oval 
circle in which the characters and figures 
are enclosed. Upon all the monuments, 
and on the walls of the temples, both inside 
and outside, are found these figures and in- 
scriptions. They cover the walls com- 
pletely, amid the hundreds of delineations 
of the various kings and Pharaohs who 
reigned from Menes — the first known king 
of Egypt— 4,400 years before the Christian 
era, to the close of the reign of the Ptole- 
mies, and to the death of Antony and Cleo- 
patra, the latter dying by the bite of an 
asp, 42 years before the birth of Christ. 
In the temple at Abydos was found a 
famous tablet of stone, which the translator 
of the figures thereon declares gives the 
names in regular order of 76 kings of Egypt, 



beginning with Menes, 4,400 years B. C, 
and closing with Seti I., 1366 years B. C, 
who built the Abydos temple. Two other 
tablets have been found — one at Sakkarah, 
the other at Karnak— both of which con- 
firm the history recorded at Abydos. The 
cuneiform characters are formed in various 
shapes ; between them figures of birds, ani- 
mals, reptiles, and man and woman, in all 
manner of postures. Scholars who have 
made a life study of Egyptian history, de- 
clare that in these temples are found on the 
walls and tablets, the Egyptian record for 
nearly 6,000 years before the Christian era. 
These writers divide the reign of the Egyp- 
tian kings into thirty-one dynasties down 
to 300 years before Christ, which was fol- 
lowed by the reign of the Ptolemies, and 
sucoeeded by the Eoman invasion and a 
protectorate. In the reign of Nero, 65 
years after Christ, Saint Mark preached 
Christianity in Egypt. The rule of the 
Arabs began in 641 ; ended, 1517, when 
the country was conquered by the Turks, 
since which time Egypt has been a pashalic 
of Turkey, aided by English rule. It can 
be said that the present prosperity of Egypt 
is due to the supervising care which Eng- 
land keeps over the country. The clash 
between the various races of the land is 
thus prevented. There can be no question 
but that the Egyptians, whom the sculptures 
and monuments show to the tourist, be- 
longed to the Caucasian race. The form of 
the face is not shown as seen in the dark 
raoes. We know that bible history gives 
the home of Ham as in Egypt, meaning, 
no doubt, Ethiopia. But every figure rep- 
resenting an Egyptian is also a figure of 
the Caucasian ; and the Egyptians of the 
present, some of whom accompanied us in 
our visit to templos and tombs, are in atti- 
tude, form and faco, a veritable reproduc- 
tion of the figures of the ancient king or 
ruler who caused the tomb he is visiting to 
Deconstructed. The descendants of Cush, 
who was a son of Ham, are shown on the 



monuments as coming from Nubia, and of 
the negro tribes that inhabit the Ethiopian 
country. In my description of the various 
temples it will not be expected that I at- 
tempt to give the reader a translation of 
any of the forms of writing shown on the 
columns or walls Suffice it to 'say , that the 
writing bears great resemblance to that of 
the Chinese and is almost entirely pictorial, 
with many hieroglyphics interspersed be- 
tween the pictures. My purpose is to try 
and show the reader that there is really 
nothing new in the way of architecture in 
our day, as the old temples show that past 
ages had about all that we have, and in 
extent far greater. 
In going down the Nile from Assouan, 
i we stopped first to view the— 

TEMPLE OF KOM OMBOS. 

It measures 500x250 feet and stands forty 
feet above the Nile. It was built 1600 B. 
C, and we enter a sandstone gateway, 
i which the builder dedicated to the 
| god Sebek — the crocodile god. Figures of 
i crocodiles are numerous on every wall. 
Entering the gateway we pass into 
a large court in which stand sixteen col- 
umns of solid stone, surmounted with cap- 
itals ornamented with very ancient figures, 
and covered with cartouches which our 
" dragoman said was the cartouche of Tiberius. 
I Another hall has 19 columns abouts 40 feet 
high ; still another with 10 columns, from 
which we enter three chambers and two 
shrines. These shrines or sanctuaries are 
dedicated to ancient gods. The bas-reliefs 
here are exceedingly fine and the delioacy 
of the coloring and fine workmanship on 
the walls and columns very handsome. 
There are many inscriptions, all of a relig- 
ious character, giving details concerning 
festivals, names of deities, etc. Leaving 
this temple, we next stop at the 

TEMPLE OF EDFU, 

which is without exception one of the 



grandest and best preserved monuments of 
Egypt's many temples. This temple was 
buried beneath a portion of the village of 
Edfu, but was unearthed by the explorer, 
Mariette. Viewing the immense piles Of 
sand and earth lying just outside, gives a 
faint conception of the extensive excavation 
which brought to view this magnificent 
temple. The historian says, that 180 years 
were passed in its building, which accounts 
for its great grandeur. Its complete con- 
dition caused us to linger many hours view- 
ing it in all its parts. The space enclosed 
by the walls measures 450x120 feet ; the 
front of the propylon whioh includes its 
two splendid towers, has a width of about 
250 feet. The two pylon towers have each 
250 steps to the top We obtained a 
charming view of the Nile valley from the 
top of the towers. Descending we passed 
through an immense doorway between the 
towers, entering a court, around three sides 
of which runs a gallery supported on 32 
pillars, no two of which are alike. Then 
comes a room, the whole width ot the build- 
ing having 18 immense pillars 50 ft.high and 
27 feet in diameter, all covered with hiero- 
glyphics. In this room is a large sarco- 
pagus, which has been robbed of its 
mummified occupant. The next room is 
supported by 12 very large pillars, which 
swell out from the base and gradually taper 
until one-half their length, when they 
gradually diminish. This room is sur- 
rounded by four rooms on each side, from 
one of which a flight of steps goes to the 
roof. We next pass through two courts 
open at the top, no pillars. Adjoining the 
last court is a small room the walls of which 
are covered with figures and hieroglyphics. 
Some of the figures are shown in the act of 
reaping grain. From the rear of this 
court we ascend six steps to a beautiful 
little temple or sanctuary in the. center of 
which stands a granite shrine cut out of a 
single block, Baid to weigh 60 tons, and in 
which the sacred hawk, (symbol of Horus) 



was once jealously concealed. All the 
temple columns are covered with represen- 
tations of battle scenes, and the walls with 
illustrations of Egyptian history. A ride 
of 30 miles brings us to the 

TEMPLE OF ESNEH, 

which is almost entirely underground, the 
only part visible being its " Hall of Col- 
umns." The portico is supported by 24 
columns 65 feet high and 19 feet in circum- 
ference. They have very handsome capi- 
tals, no two of which are alike ; the carv- 
ing in imitation of the vine, down plant, 
date and papyrus. The decoration of the 
columns although black with smoke and 
dirt, shows much skill in their ornamenta- 
tion. The darkness renders it impossible 
to give more than a passing view of the 
hieroglyphics, which the guide said gave 
a record of the reign of the Roman Emper- 
ors. 

In passing from the temple ruins to our 
steamer we looked in upon the dye works 
of the place. The bJ ue cotton cloth so 
much used by the natives is dyed here. 
They have large kettles in which they 
place the dye and then immerse the cloth, 
wringing it out with their hands ; the color 
is very bright, and those who do the color- 
ing are in face and hands about as blue in 
appearance as the dye they use. 

We return to Luxor, 460 miles from 
Cairo, an Arabic name which means "the 
palaces." Ancient Thebes stood here on 
both sides of the Nile. The east side has 
the village of Luxor, where we tarried four 
days, and frqm our hotel made excursions 
to the various temples and tombs which 
cover the territory known as Ancient Thebes 
Some writers declare Thebes was founded 
by Menes, 4,000 years before the Christinn 
era ; records from the tombs of the kings, 
show that some of the kings were buried 
there 2600 years before the Christian era. 
The ground upon which this ancient city 
stood, as it appears today, is admirably 



adapted for the site of a great city. Wo 
see mountains on the east and west sk'e 
of the river which sweep away from- it, 
and leavo a broad plain on each bank sev- 
eral square miles in extent. There is said 
to be no Egyptian description of Thebes 
or any statement as to its size. The uncov- 
ering of its temples and tombs bears record 
however, that what is told of the city bv 
ancient writers since the days of Egyptian 
glory, is trustworthy. Students in Greek 
history find that Homer pictured it in his 
Iliad, and other writers declare that Thebes 
highest splendor was about 1,609, B. C , 
when the mythological god, Amen-Ba, 
became the great god of all Egypt, and his 
dwelling place, Thebes, was adorned with 
splendor. That her priests were astrono- 
mers and philosophers, and also wor- 
shipped the sun, and made Jupiter their 
god above all other deities. Thebes was 
the capital of the kingdom of tbe Pharaohs 
when in the zenith of their power. 

It is beyond our meagre power of descrip- 
tion to give a good understanding of her 
temples, palaces, obolisks, sphinxes and 
and sculpture, but we will try. A student 
who has made for years a study of the lives 
of the Egyptians, says, " to have seen the 
monuments of Thebes is to have seen the 
Egyptians as thoy lived and moved before 
the eyes of Moses. To have seen the tombs 
of Thebes is to have seen the whole religu n 
of the Egyptians at the most Solemn 
moment of their lives." We left our hotel 
at Luxor quite early one morbing to view 
the 

TEMPLK OF LUXOR, 

Which, when compared with Karnak is 
not very attractive, as it remains in part 
uncovered. A Coptic church stands ovtr 
a portion of the hidden temple, as does also 
a good proportion of the village of Luxor. 
Many years will pass before funds will be 
provided to buy out the occupants above 
that portion uncovered. This temple, in 



the portion now seen, shows it to be one of 
vast dimensions. Its principal entrance is 
most magnificent. On either side of the 
doorway stood two obelisks, each formed 
out of a single block of red granite 80 feet 
high, 8 feet square, and most elegantly 
sculptured— one of these obelisks has been 
conveyed to Paris, and is seen in the Place 
de la Concorde. The other standing here, 
records the names, titles, etc., of the King 
Barneses II, who was a great builder and 
lived 1300 years before the Christian era 
His history shows him to have been famou g 
as an oppressor of the Israelites, whose 
forced labor no doubt contributed to the 
grandeur of this temple. The obelisk here, 
is remarkable for its sculpture ; we have 
seen no other nearly as handsome. 

We have forgotten to note that in all 

these temples there has been groat injury 

done by vandal hands to much of the 

carving upon the columns and walls. We 

are told that the races that have occupied 

the land since the Pharaohs, to show their 

hatred of their former oppressors, did their 

utmost to destroy the beauty of the faces of 

all the rulers and gods carved upon the 

walls or columns of these structures. There 

are however many which escaped, probably 

because they were hidden from their view 

by being buried beneath the sands which 

enveloped them. Certain portions of this 

temple appear to have been used by the 

Copts as a church, as we see that the 

ancient sculptures have been plastered over 

and painted with figures of saints. In 

passing through what is seen of this temple 

our eye fell upon hundreds of mutilated 

statues great and small, with an occasional 

one almost perfect. During the past year 

a most gigantic statue of Bamesos has been 

unearthed, and stands in perfect grandeur 

near that portion of the temple under the 

Coptic church. It looks as if a wide 

passage way is to be brought to view 

in due time, as the head and bust of a 

second Barneses, identical in appearance 



and size is seen. We asked why the work 
of bringing the hidden portion of the 
statue, and what else lies yet concealed, was 
not being done. The answer is that money 
must be had to buy out the Arab occupants 
of the town above the ruins. What has 
been uncovered of Luxor presents . a won- 
derful scene from the river, as its grand 
entrance is in full view. 

Having seen the lesser of the two great 
temples on the east bank of the Nile, we 
turned towards the . 

TEMPLE OF KARNAK, 

The ruins of which are considered the 
most wonderful in Egypt. The two temples 
are a little more than a mile apart, but 
were without doubt connected by an 
avenue, which in grandeur once surpassed 
any known to history. This avenue, as 
mapped, is 80 feet wide, on each side of 
which stood a row of sphinxes with the 
head of a woman upon a lion's body, and a 
statue of a king between the lion's fore-feet. 
Many of the sphinxes have disappeared, 
but enough remain, to show their former 
magnificence. Reaching the end of this 
avenue, we see the ruin of what appears to 
have been a series of temples. Entering 
the opening of a lofty arch, covered with 
innumerable hieroglyphics and Egyptian 
figures, all most perfectly carved on the 
stone of which it is composed we see to 
the right a structure called by our drag- 
oman " The Temple of Mut," which is 
also approached by an avenue of sphinxes. 
The original temple and the various ad- 
ditions built by different rulers or kings 
who reigned duriDg the 2500 years which 
passed in constructing them was surround- 
ed by an immense wall of brick over 30 
feet thick. We will not undertake a de- 
description of the temples, or rather addi- 
tions to the original temple which is called 
Karnak. Each Egyptian ruler, each king 
in turn, appears to have striven to outrival 



his predecessor in making additions to the 
building. " Twenty monarchs " says Mar- 
iette, " contributed during twenty-five cen- 
turies to produce a pile of temples whose 
ruins are the wonder and bewilderment of 
mankind, dedicated to a triad of deities, 
Amen, Mont and Khons — father, mother, 
son," which Egyptian mythology alone 
can explain. We return to the end of the 
avenue of sphinxes which leads from Luxor 
to Karnak, and enter a second smaller 
avenue ornamented with a row of ram- 
headed sphinxes on each side. We pass 
between them and at the end of the passage 
is seen another tower of great splendor. 
Passing its doorway a third avenue of 
sphinxes leads us to a temple room shown to 
have been built by Rameses III. 



The Glories of Ancient Egypt. 

The Historical and Architectural Interest 
of the Ruined Structures. 



More about the temples—The Tombs of the 

Kings — Some Egyptian Mythology — 

Their Idea of a Future State. 



BY A. li. UNDERHII/L. 



The great temple of Karnak fronted 
the Nile, another avenue of ram-headed 
sphinxes being seen in the approach from 
the river. When we paesed through the 
entrance to the last mentioned temple we 
entered the famous 'Hall of Columns," 
said to be the most famous the Egyptians 
ever constructed. It appeared as if we 
were entering a great forest of California 
big trees, so large are some of these columns. 
They number 134, supporting originally a 
massive roof, which in part has now disap- 
peared. There are twelve columns which 
stand in the central avenue, which are 
nearly 70 feet high and 36 feet in circum- 
ference ; the other columns, 122 in number, 
are about 40 feet high and 27 feet in cir- 
cumference. A French writer says : "The 
Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris could 
stand inside this hall of columns without 
touching the walls." Leaving this hall 
we pass another tower and come upon a 
passage way, on one side of which stands a 
great obelisk, beautiful in form and orna- 
mentation ; a second obelisk, which stood 
on the other side of the passage, lies in 



fragments near its foundation. At the end 
of the passage we view the remains of a gate 
wnich led into another room supported by 
14 columns ; just outside were two granite 
obelisks of beautiful form and design— one 
stands in all its original grandeur, 105 feet 
high. There is still another arch of beauty 
which we pass and find we are in an oblong 
chamber of red granite, called a sanctuary. 
Just beyond this is a large building in 
which was a most beautiful tablet, known 
as the " Tablet of Ancestors," which is now 
in a Paris museum. On the walls are seen 
representations of one of the Egyptian 
kings making offerings to his royal ances- 
tors. There is a chamber adjoining with 
emblems, showing that it was used fir the 
adoration of the hawk— the emblem of the 
sun god, Ra Adjoining this part of the 
great temple is a lake, which in the days of 
Karnak's glory, no doubt was very beau- 
tiful. According to our dragoman, the 
walls that remain of Karnak, in their car- 
touches, figures and hieroglyphics contain 
in form a library of great historical interest, 
> nd what is very interesting to the bible 



student-full confirmation of the truth of 
those predictions of scripture, which metes 
out to the Egyptian warrior kings the same 
measure which they are here represented as 
having meted out to others. It is well to 
say that many recent discoveries in deciph- 
ering the wonderful style of recording an- 
cient events on Karnak's walls, both inside 
and outside, have caused changes as to their 
correct translation ; yet, there remains no 
material change, which in any way comes 
in collision with old testament history, 
which is so faithfully confirmed in these 
Egyptian hieroglyphical records The ex- 
plorer, Mariette, to whom we are indebted 
more than any other for their explanation, 
recalls the language of Ezekiel xxx, 14, 16 : 
" No shall be broken up;" " No shall be 
rent asunder. " No was one of the gods 
worshipped by the Egyptians. There is no 
record how these Karnak temples became 
almost a mass of ruins, whether by earth- 
quake or some volcanic action, which 
buried so many of them in the sands and 
mud of the great Nile ; but the fact is clear, 
that we find them in whole or in part un- 
covered, and ruin among them universal. 
We returned to a view of the beautiful rose 
granite obelisk which still towers over one 
hundred feet above us, knowing that its 
like would never greet our vision again. 
What remains of Karnak is now carefully 
guarded, and unless destroyed by other 
than the hand of man, its wonders can be 
seen by many generations yet to come. 

The ruins on the western side of the Nile 
at Thebes are not less interesting. There 
were seven temples over there. Our drago- 
man procured donkeys for the trip among 
them. It was an all day's journey and a 
most interesting one. It was a novel ride 
for us, followed as we were by a crowd of 
young Arabian girls of eight or ten years, 
each with a water jar filled with Nile water 
which they desired to sell to quench our 
thirst as we traversed the heated sand that 
everywhere abounds. "Me your girl;" 



" You good man," and various other sen- 
tences of English known to them, greet the 
ear. They follow us everywhere, and are 
determined to serve us ; their presence at 
every halt gave us songs in the Arab dia- 
lect and amused us greatly. We do not 
think the reader will be interested in a long 
detailed description of the seven temples, 
or rather what remains of them, so will 
write somewhat briefly. One is known as 
the— 

TEMPLE OF KURNAH, 

the sculpture on the walls representing 
the King Rameses making offerings to 
the gods ; the next, the Memnonium, had 
an immense statue of Rameses II. at least 
sixty feet high at the entrance, but it has 
been thrown down and badly mutilated. 
The walls covered with sculptured scenes 
showing Rameses in his battles against his 
enemies. One scene is known to historians 
as describing a battle in which he was for- 
aken by his army. He is seen cutting his 
way through the enemy and hurling them 
one after another to certain death. Our at- 
tention was called to the ceiling of one of 
the chambers upon which is an interesting 
astronomical painting in which the twelve 
Egyptian months are delineated. 

THE COLOSSUS OF MEMNOK, OR COLOSSI, 

are two interesting statues which stood in 
front of a stone temple that has nearly all 
disappeared. The Colossi remain, but in a 
sadly mutilated condition. They stood 
some sixty feet high, and inscripti<ns on 
the back of these statues tell of events in 
the years long before the Christian era. 
The fourth series of temples is a little south 
of the Colossi, known as — 

MEDINET HABU. 

One temple has been used by the Coptic 
Christians for years and many of its walls 
have been plastered and painted with pict- 
ures found in the Greek and Coptic 
churches. Some of the courts and walls 



have the names of Titus and Hadrian there- 
on, showing that others occupied them be- 
side the Egyptians. Another is called the 

TEMPLE OF RAMESE8 III. 

It is a very interesting temple and we 
enter the great arch or pylon, the front of 
which is ornamented with war scenes of 
Rameses against the Phoenicians. There 
are several courts and arohes of great beauty 
filled with columns, the arches highly orna- 
mented Some of the scenes in figures, 
cartouches and hieroglyphics, represent the 
great Barneses making offerings and per- 
forming various ceremonies. One is very 
handsome, showing a long procession, a 
coronation of a king, musicians, and the 
flight of four birds bearing communications 
to the outside world. 

Our dragoman called our attention par- 
ticularly to a record on one wall outside 



the building. It records, according to the 
translator, a list of religious festivals ; on 
another wall, ten scenes in pictorial charac- 
ter : 1 The king and his army setting out 
to war. 2. A great battle. 3. Slaughter 
of the enemy by thousands, and the prison- 
ers led before the king. 4. The king be- 
fore his victorious army, who are arranging 
the spoil captured. 6. Army on the march. 
6. Another battle, enemy routed, women 
and children fleeing in every direction. 7. 
Army marching, a lion is slain, and anoth- 
er is seen escaping. 8. Naval battle scene 
9. The return to Egypt. The number of 
the slain is counted by the number of hands 
which have been cut off the bodies on the 
field of battle. 10. Return to Thebes, 
where the king presents his prisoners to 
three gods, named Amen-Ra, Mut and 
Chesnu. The prisoners begging the king 
to permit them to live that they may pro- 
claim his power and glory. These drago- 
men have all this story and many more in 
explanation of the temple's pictured scenes. 
We are conducted to a small temple out- 
side called — 



DER-EL-MEDINET, 

in one of the chambers of which is a judg- 
ment scene which forms the vignette of one 
of the chapters of the " Book of the Dead.'» 
(This book is shown in the Gizeh museum 
at Cairo). It is entirely pictorial, and 
shows that the ideas now existing as to the 
final judgment had place in the days when 
this temple was built. 

With this scene we changed the route of 
our day's tour, to enter a long ravine which 
winds into the heart of the Libyan moun- 
tains. The sun was scorching as we passed 
over the hot sands into the valley called — 

BABEL-EL-MULUK , 

to view the Tombs of the Kings It is a 
narrow and a sombre valley, lying just be- 
hind the Libyan hills. Not a tree nor a 
shrub, nor blade of grass, is to be seen. 
The pale- blue color of the zenith alone re- 
lieves the awful monotony of the high and 
I craggy cliffs, as we ride between their 
frowning faces. Every Egyptian king 
seems to have begun his reign by preparing 
his sepulchre. Here, in the dread seclusion 
of this desolate spot, they hoped to rest un- 
disturbed throughout the ages, and for cen- 
turies no one penetrated their sepulchres. 
Some of our older readers will recall articles 
published about twenty-five years ago in 
I magazines and papers giving an account of 
I finding royal mummies at Thebes. They 
I were taken from these tombs, and most of 
them are in the museum at Cairo. It was 
i a great discovery, and with them were 
I found many things which had not seen the 
| light of day for centuries : such as funeral 
furniture, figures in stone and wood, Canopic 
jars, so called in commemoration of Cano- 
pus, a pilot, and who for some reason not 
fully made known was held by the royalty 
in high veneration ; bronze vases, beads, 
jewelry and coins in great quantities. All 
the contents of these tombs were removed 
to Cairo on a government steamer ; only 
one or two sarcophagi now remaining. 



The others are seen in the Gizeh museum, i 
and are in number 27 —mummies with their 
mummy cases and the stone sarcophagus 
which contained them. 

Our journey was to view the inside of 
these ancient sepulchres and their ornamen- 
tation. They are the tombs of the kings 
who ruled from 1700 B. U. down to 1000 
B. C— during seven centuries. Ourdonk- 
ev j°gg9d along, not seeming to mind the i 
heat, and our " girls " also. They had not 
succeeded in selling their Nile water, but 
they had " been there before," and Knew 
that lunch time was sure to come, when it 
would be wanted. We were soon at the 
narrow point of the valley where the tombs 
appear. There are 47 of them, but only a 
few are shown ; we entered seven. As 
usual with sight-seeing, we are first shown 
the most uninteresting portions. However, 
the best paid us royally for our visit. Five 
of the tombs are those of Bameees I , III., 
IV., VI., IX. That of Harness I. is the 
oldest in the valley ; that of the third Barn- 
eses, 1200 B. O , has many scenes on the* 
walls representing harp playing His 
mummy is at Gizeh. In the tomb of 
Barneses IV. is seen the colossal granite 
sarcophagus of this king. It was hewn out 
of a piece of solid rock and is so heavy that 
no attempt has been made to remove it. 
The tomb of Barneses VI. has beautiful 
astronomical designs on many of the ceil- 
ings, and is still very presentable. In the 
tomb of Barneses IX. is seen a variety of 
sculptures and paintings of a nature differ- 
ent from the other tombs ; they illustrate 
the idea of a resurrection after death, and 
of imortality, showing that this king looked 
iorward to a future life. The most inter- 
esting of all the tombs, the largest and 
most beautiful is that of Seti I. who lived 
1300 B. O. Its depth in the mountain is 
more than 600 feet. Tapers are lighted 
and we pass from the outside world down 
an inclined tunnel into the uncertainty be- 
I ycnd. We pass into great halls which 



prove to be only ante-chambers to the royal 
grave. On both sides of the passage and 
upon the ceiling, the story of this Pharaoh's 
life is pictured. The designs weie first 
sketched in outline in bright red, and the 
master designer has finished them in black. 
They are most curious pictures, not like 
any found in the other tombs where are 
seen building and farming scenes, proces- 
sions of flocks and herds with stewards tak- 
ing - accounts of their master's wealth and 
possessions. In Seti's tomb, all is more or 
less fantastical. Long serpents are pic- 
tured gliding around the rooms, while 
others stand erect in the doorways. Mur- 
derous scenes are noticed,such as malefactors 
being decapitated, while other humans 
are being cast into burning flames. These 
pictures are simply an allegory, illustrating 
no doubt a legend of some nature, that 
accord with scenes in the life of this Phar- 
aoh, or else refer to some of the many 
mythical religious ideas prevailing in the 
age when Seti lived. The historian, Mar- 
iette, who has studied these curious de- 
signs says : 

" The judgment of the soul after being 
separated from the body, and the many 
trials it will be called upon to overcome by 
the aid only of such virtues as it evinced 
while it was on earth, constitute the sub- 
ject matter of the almost endless represen- 
tations which cover the walls of this tomb, 
from the entrance to the extreme end of the 
chamber. The serpents standing erect over 
each portal, darting out venom, are the 
guardians of the gates of heaven ; the soul 
cannot pass unless justified by works of 
piety and benevolence. The long texts die- 
played over many portions of the walls are 
magnificent hymns, to which the soul gives 
utterance in honor of the divinity whose 
glory and greatness it thus celebrates 
When once the dead has been adjudged 
worthy of life eternal, these ordeals are at 
an end ; he becomes part of the divine 
essence, and henceforward a pure spirit, 
he wanders over the vast regions where the 
stars forever shine. The soul has no 
sooner left the body than we are called 
upon from room to room, to witness 



Its progress as it appears before the gods, 
and becomes gradually purified, until at 
last, in the grand hall at the end of the 
tomb, we are present at its final admission 
into that life, which a second death shall 
never reach." 

The reader, after getting the translator's 
idea of this tomb's illustrations, can now 
be told of its innermost recesses. After 
we had passed the long entrance way, 
we came into a small chamber, which evi- 
dently was intended for a place for some 
ceremony; beyond this came two halls, 
the first having four pillars, the sec- 
ond, two pillars ; around these halls 
are niches cut in the rock, evidently 
for resting places of mummy cases and the 
various jars and stone statuary found in 
most all the tombs. We pass down a flight 
of steps, through another long hall, down 
more steps, into a large hall, beautifully 
ornamented, and again through a nar- 
row passage, that appears to have been 
once closely ceiled, and find we are 
in a large six pillared hall and vault- 
ed chamber, in the center of which 
is a beautiful alabaster sarcophagus 
which once held the coffin and mummy of 
8eti I. (We saw this cuffin and the mum- 
my of Soti, in the museum at Cairo). The 
sculptures of the sarcophagus were perfect. 
All around this vaulted chamber and in the 
rooms adjoining are seen niches in the 
wall where once were deposited the dead ot 
the royal family. The females appear to 
have had a separate place, judging by the 
designs on the ceiling and around the 
wall vaults of one of the rooms ; they illus- 
trate only scenes peculiar to that of woman 
while in life. In order to get a good view 
of the painted walls magnesia tapers were 
kept burning by our dragoman, their brill- 
iancy adding to the sombre scene we had 
passed through and had aided to indelibly 
fix them in our memory. Our Arab girls 
were found waiting as we passed from our 
underground visit. We were hungry and 



and our party were soon seated for 
lunch. A trifling amount of "back- 
sheesh" satisfied them in return for 
the contents of their water jars ; while we 
ate and drank they s vng Arab songs for 
our amusement, and were rewarded with a 
presentation of the contents not used from 
our lunch baskets ; after which they soon 
disappeared. Mounting our donkeys, we 
were soon over the brow of one of the large 
hills of these Libyan mountains, descend J 
ing to the plain that led to the Nile, cross- 
ing opposite Luxor. We were a lot of wearj 
tourists ; had seen much that was inter- 
ing ; and in due season enjoyed a "wolf 's 
meal" at the table of the most excellent 
hotel in Luxor 

We had two more ancient temples to 
look over before we returned to Cairo. We 
accomplished this in two days' time. Our 
steamer stopping to give opportunity. We 
will first write of the 

TEMPLE OF SETI I. AT ABYD08. 

This is the Pharaoh, whose royal tomb is 
described above. His temple Is called the 
"Memnonium," and is built of white caloar- 
eous stone. This palace is particularly in- 
teresting because of the peculiar con- 
struction of the roof, which our dragoman 
said, is the only one of the kind in Egypt. 
It is made with large stones, that extend 
from one architrave to another, the 
great stones laid on their sides ; then cut 
out in the form of an arch, the entire arch 
being ornamented with sculptures and 
hieroglyphios. Its exterior has two courts, 
the pillars, which are very large, being 
covered with religious scenes and figures of 
Seti and the god Osiris, to whom a tem- 
ple adjoining is dedicated. We go into a 
hall having 24 pillars in two rows, on the 
walls figures of th<> gods, and the king 
making them offerings ; into a larger hall 
having 36 columns in three rows, the hie- 
roglyphics in relief, and the style and finish 
of the sculpture very tine. Beyond this 



hill are eeven chambers and seven naves, 
all beautifully shaped and decorated. All 
these places were dedicated according to 
their wall designs, to 6ix gods— Horui-, 
Amen, Harruachis, Ptah, Isis, Oairis and 
one to rieti I. This fcing seems to have had 
the greater veneration for Oairis, as we 
find in the innermost part of this temple, 
a special sanctuary, most beautifully deco- 
rated, containing 12 handsome columns, 
which was the especial resting place of Osi- 
ris. In the corridor adjoining this sanctu- 
ary, was found the famous tablet of Abydos, 
upon which are the names of the 76 kings, 
beginning with Mena or Menes, 4400 B. C. 
and ending with Seti I, 1300 B. C. The 
god Osiris was held by the Egyptians, ac- 
cording to one historian, to represent their 
ideas of a resurrection. He records this 
legend : — 

"Erery one knows how Osiris came to 
be buried at Abydos. How that Osir s 
ruled the world wisely, and gave just judg- 
ments until his false brother, Typhon, en- 
ticed him into a chest and cast him 
into the Nile ; how Isis, his queen, 
searched the wide world for her hus- 
band's body and at last found it buried at 
Byblon in Syria, where it had been cast 
up by the sea ; how Typhon again possess- 
ed himself of the corpse and cut it into 
fourteen pieces and scattered them over the 
land of Egypt, and how the mourning wife 
sought dilligently for the several limbs, and 
buried each where it lay, and the head was 
buried at Abydos. Then Osiris, who now 
ruled the world of shades, made armor for 
his son, Horus, and sent him to do battle 
with Typhon, who was vanquished but not 
slain outright. And Osiris came back to 
reign with las How the setting and re- 
appearance of the sun is figured by this 
beautiful myth, and how the conflict be- 
tween Typhon and Osiris was made to sym- 
b.lizethe struggle between spiritual and 
intellectual, as well as physical light and 
darkness, the fight between right and 
wrong, between life and death, until 
the resurrection of Osiris became the 
type and symbol of the immortality of the 
soul." 

This explains in some measure at least 
that to every pious Egyptian the story 
of the risen Osiris was a presage of his own 



resurrection and like this god he too should 
rise and triumph over death ; and explains 
why so much of this class of illustrations 
is found in the temples of the Kings. In 
due time we reached the 

TEMPLE OF DENDERAH, 

one of the best preserved in Egypt. The 
portico is said to have been erected in the 
time of the Emperor Tiberius; on it is 
seen the name of that monarch ; also those 
of Claudius, Nero, Caligula, Ptolemy and 
Caesar on the back wall. There are por- 
traits of Cleopatra and her son Caesarion 
on another wall. 

Descending some 20 steps, we are in a 
large and beautiful hall the roof of which 
is supported by 24 Athor-headed columns 
60 feet high arranged in six rows and or- 
namented with beautifully painted sculp- 
ture. This is succeeded by another hall of 
six columns with three rooms on either side; 
than a central chamber with a room be- 
hind, known as the sanctuary in which the 
emblem of the Goddess Athor was placed. 
On the ceiling of the portico is a Zodiac, 
of fine appearance. This temple when dis- 
covered, was nearly buried among the rub- 
bish which centuries had accumulated I 
around it and a whole village of Mahome- 
dan mud huts stood upon the roof. Its 
excavation was begun and completed by 
the explorer Mariette, to whom belongs 
the honor of spending a fortune and many 
years of arduous labor in supervising 
the unearthing of most of these monuments 
of past ages. 

In closing this long story of the Temples 
and Tombs I deem it right, for the benefit 
of our younger readers that a brief outline 
of Egyptian history be added, that a good 
understanding may be had of the lapse of 
time that covers temple history. Tradition 
says, according to records in the Gizeh mu- 
seum, that before the earth was ruled by 
mortal kings, it was governed for a long 



"period by the Gods ; first by Ptah, 1 he 
creator of the world, god of Memphis ; then 
by Ra, the god of ihe Sun, and Schu. the 
god of the air ; then followed the cycle of 
Oairis, which was succeeded by Thoth, 
Anubis and numerous other deities. Fi- 
nally came the so-called "Servants of 
Horus," the demi-gods that make up the 
retinue of Horus and form the transition 
from the gods to the earthly rulers. Ac- 
cording to the Turin Papyrus they were 
succeeded by King Menos, tho first histori- 
cal ruler, the uniter of both Upper and 
Lower Egypt, the founder of what is called 
the first dynasty. This explains why the 
kings of Eg) pt held in s j high veneration 
the gods which are represented on the walls 
of all the old temples. 

Josephus, who is regarded as a good his- 
torian, declares Menes was the first king cf 
Egypt. That he ascended the throne 2320 
y»ws before Christ, or 4225 years ago. 
About 200 years later the great pyramid at 
Cairo, known as "Cheops" was built; and 
40 years later the second great pyra- 
mid was built. Abraham came to Egypt 
1920 years before Christ. Joseph came 
1706 years before Christ. He died 1635 
years before Christ. During this time 
Moses was born, and found in the bul- 
rushes near the present Cairo, fleeing from 
Egypt 40 years later. From this date on 
to 500 years before Christ, the Egyptians 
attained great wealth and civilization. It 
was during this prosperity that these 
tern pit s and tombs were constructed. No 
doubt a great portion, if not all the labor in 
their building, was forced from the Israelites 
during their captivity. Since that time 
Egypt has fallen under the rule of the Per- 
sians, Macedonians, Ptolemies, Romans, 
Byzantines and the Mahomedans. Tie 
latter, with the aid of the Egyptian Copts 
and the English protectorate are now in 
possession of the government. The final 
overthrow that followed the persecution of 
the Israelites is a remarkable confirmation 



of the prophetical language of the Old Tes- 
tament. Every year adds new evidence in 
the uncovering of Egyptian ruins. The de- 
facements of tombs and temples recently 
unearthed, is now prevented ; the govern- 
ment controls all the work. No doubt, 
during the next few years, greater proof of 
Bible history will be found in the still 
hidden revelations that will come to light 
as more of the work of the Pharaohs is 
brought to view. There are many places 
on the Nile where we saw excavations go- 
ing on, several of which show partly un- 
covered buildings. The tourist of twenty 
pears hence will see many new things. 

A. L. U. 



The Glories of Ancient Egypt. 

The Historical and Architectural Interest 
of Those Wonderful Structures. 



A Glimpse of Cairo—The Bazaars— The 
Mosques— Old Cairo— The University— 
Dervish Worship. 



BY A. Ii. UJSDBRHILI,. 



(No 
Cairo, Egypt, April 12th, 1895. 
Once more I am in Cairo, the great cos- 
mopolitan city of Egypt. My return from 
the Nile trip to a home in the world re- 
nowned Shepard's hotel, where every com- 
fort and luxury known to the human fami- 
ly can be obtained for American or English 
gold, was quite a change from the life of a 
tourist on a Nile steamer, with its narrow 
cabin rooms and a cuisine not overburdened 
with the luxuries, to say nothing of the 
necessities of life. What a transformation I 
I had been for many days viewing the re- 
mains of a dead, past age of which we 
know really but little, and yet that little is 
very instructive when fully understood and 
studied by the light of the age in which 
we live. I had changed in color, caused by 
the heat and bright sun of Egypt, so that 
had my features been Egyptian, I would 
have been one and the same as the servants 
who are ever ready to do your bidding in 
this great city A good bath and clean 
linen together with most excellent food, 
to say nothing of drinks, which every one 



8.) 

uses here because of the danger of drinking 
water that may produce illness, were the 
renovating medicines used to prepare your 
correspondent for a few days of sight-seeing 
and real comfort in Cairo. 

As I sit on the broad veranda of my 
hotel and see the wonderful and ever chang- 
ing mass of humanity passing by, clothed 
in the habiliments of every nation under 
the sun, I recall the stories of that wonder- 
ful book, read by every school boy in his 
'teens, the Arabian Nights. The great 
pyramids stand in sight of Cairo, the capi- 
tal of Egypt. The scenes of one-half its 
chapters are laid in its streets, and I seem 
to be living my youth over again as one by 
one those tales are recalled, in the curious 
views my eyes behold, as I am looking here 
and there at what is so novel, and to be 
seen only in the streets of Cairo, of all the 
cities in the world. Then, too, the winter 
climate here is most perfect ; and the nov- 
elty of mixing with orientals, coming in 
direct contact with oriental life, hearing a 
tongue to us so entirely unknown as the 



Arabic, witnessing the exercise of Moham- 
medan devotion and the many peculiarities 
of these people, is a change of scene from 
American life that can never be effaced 
from our memory. We recall the fact that 
the history of Joseph, the captivity and the 
exodus, are connected with the Red Sea 
and the Nile. We see monuments of the 
Pharaoh king, Rameses II, and tradition 
says it was this Pharaoh's daughter who 
found Moses in the bulrushes and nurtured 
and cared for him. The place of the find- 
ing is on the island of Rhoda in the Nile, 
cloBe by the city, and after we view it will 
write of it. The noise of the donkey driv- 
ers in the street, the long strings of camelB 
passing, loaded with grass or products of 
the field, the donkey carts, upon which 
are seen the veiled and most singularly 
dressed wives of the Mohammedans (only 
the married go veiled) and their husbands 
clothed in long flowing robes of white, with 
gorgeous colored turbans around their 
heads, serve to add still more novelty to 
the picture presented as we view Cairo, 

We resolved first to visit the bazaars, 
knowing they would present real Cairo life, 
and accompanied by our dragoman, took a 
carriage for that purpose. Mcst tourists 
go on donkeys, but we had used this useful 
animal so much up the Nile, and knowing 
we could see more in a crowded bazaar 
from a seat in a carriage, took that elevated 
position. We pass into the Mouski, the 
representative street ; it is narrow and the 
upper portion of the houses generally pro- 
ject, the windows much farther. The sky 
is a cloudless blue above us, only occasional 
gleams of sunshine reaching the street be- 
low The houses are solidly constructed 
and lofty, being mostly two stories high. 
The roofs are flat and are the resort of the 
family in the cool of the evening. The 
front doors of the houses were handsomely 
carved, painted and decorated with Arabic 
inscriptions, and heavy iron knockers. The 
Hpartmonts are those of the women 



and children. The roadway of the Mouski 
is a never ending panorama of moving 
human forms. We see the merchants, sleek 
and fat, clad in wondrous combinations 
of subdued colors ; stately Bedouins in 
black and white ; Fellahin in blue with bare 
feet and brown cap3 ; Nubians with black, 
shiny faces ; negroes with a wealth of 
grinning teeth ; veiled women shuffling 
along in their dresses of dark blue ; ladies 
on donkeys and walking, veiled in white, 
their keen, black eyes darting like the 
lightning's flash from above their veils 
as you view them ; dragomen gaudily 
dressed in baggy trousers and highly col- 
ored bootB ; an innumerable host of donkey 
boys driving their donkeys loaded with 
wares ; others leading donkeys bedecked 
with tinkling brass chains and harnessed 
with bright red bridles and saddles Add 
to this camels loaded with building stone, 
plank and every other article used for any 
purpose whatever; water carriers, who 
carry on their heads brass bound jars filled 
to the brim, and others who use the skin of 
the ancient Egyptians ; cigarette sellers, 
venders of oranges, sweetmeats, etc.; lem- 
onade sellers, clinking their brass cups to- 
gether to attract a purchaser ; and call to 
mind that all of these people are howling a 
melancholy business street cry, and you get 
a slight glimpse of the medley scene viewed 
in Cairo. Then, add still further, officials 
wearing the scarlet fez ; tourists and visit- 
ors of every nationality ; pashas in car- 
riages gaily dressed, servants on the box; 
dirty, screaming beggars, mostly blind, 
asking for a pittance ; and people clothed 
in every fashion and color, all pushing or 
forcing their way through this narrow lane 
or street, and you can imagine something 
of what is seen in the Mouski. 

The bazaars are the sales rooms of the 
merchants. These are an 8x10 stall, open 
to the street ; there is a raised floor, and on 
this the merchant sits surrounded by his 
goods. Here are sold all the commodities 



needed by the people, the various branches 
of trade being divided up, so that one has 
to visit many dealers to be supplied with a 
day's needs, Mechanical work is done in 
these stalls open to the street, and we pass 
the various tradesmen pursuing their re- 
spective avocations. It is a common sight 
to see shop-keepers lying half asleep in 
their stalls, while others are seen in pro- 
found repose, all yielding to the influence 
of a climate as delightful as it is salutary. 
Should the owner desire to go to mosque to 
say his prayers, he leaves everything just 
as it is, and to show his absence, hangs a 
mat or net in front of his stall to let it be 
known he is away. There is always much 
bantering in trade, as the dealer never has 
a fixed price for his wares. When you ask 
the price of costly goods you will be asked 
to take a seat and before you are aware of 
it, coffee and cigarettes arrive ; again you 
ask for the lowest price, which is answered 
by a show of more of the goods he has f^r 
sale. When you get the price of what you 
want it is so high that you shake your head 
and offer a lest price, which is refused. 
You start away, are called back, and the 
price falls. You lower your offer again 
and turn away ; again are called back, or 



great I 



in the west, the waters of the Nile, a 

aqueduct, mosques and minarets, the ruins 

of old Cairo and the island and groves of 

Bhoda. Beyond the river, the town of 

Gizeh amid sycamore, fig and palm trees ; 

just beyond, the pyramids of Gizeh and 

Sakkara ; and bejond these the Libyan 

desert. To the north, the great city of 

Cairo with her hundreds of mosques whose 

sun-lit domes glisten brightly in the sun. 

| This citadel was built as a fortification in 

' 1166, the stones being taken from the pyra- 

! mids of Gizeh. Our path to its heights 

I was through a narrow way having a high 

j wall. It was in this passage the massacre 

| of the mamalukes (slaves) took place by 

I order of Mohammed Ali in 1811. It was a 

j terrible massacre, but one person escaping, 

(Emin Bey) who is said to have made his 

horse leap down one of the walls of the 

citadel as he refused to enter the narrow 

way. 

We descended from our lofty view to 
enter the splendid mosque of Mohammed 
Ali in the citadel, finished in 1857. It is 
said not to have a superior in beauty, and 
is fully as handsome as the celebrated 
moeque in Constantinople. It is built of 
alabaster from the quarries of Beni-Suef, 
are followed by the merchant with goods the most noted quarry in Egypt. Its model 
you want in hand. If you are wise, you was the mosque at Constantinople ; it is a 
now fix a much lower price, get what you equare, covered by a large dome and four 
want and wonder if you have not been small domeB. Inside, the ceiling is divided 
cheated even then. Such is shopping in into one large dome in the centre, sur- 
Cairo, when tourists appear. rounded by four half domes of the same 

Having seen the bazaars, we desired to size J at lne four corners of which are four 
obtain a bird's-eye view of the city in order smaller domes. The columns are very 

beautiful, having ornamented capitals 
which support round arches. The interior 
being mostly oriental alabaster, the general 
effect is superb. In the southeast corner is 
the tomb of Mohammed Ali, a beautiful 
tomb. The word mosque is derived from 
the Arabic, a "place of prayer." Every 



to get an idea of the bearings of the differ- 
ent objects of curiosity, and be able to 
move about without the aid of a dragoman 
— to the citadel was our next visit. From 
the citadel we view a magnificent pano- 
rama : To the east, the obelisk of Heliopo- 
lis and the tombs of the mamalukes ; to the 



south, ruined castles and mouldering domes; mosque, therefore, has a » kiblah," or spot 

to which the Mohammedan turns his face 
during his prayers. This is always on the 



east side in the form of a recess. The floor 
is covered with lovely carpets, and a wealth 
of lamps hang like gold-fish globes from 
the roof. Just outside the place of prayer 
is a large court with a row of pillars on 
each of its four sides ; in the center is & 
fountain for the use of the worshipers, as 
no Mohammedan would dare to enter the 
place of prayer without first washing his 
feet. Entering, he kneels and bows him- 
self very low several times, and then look- 
ing to the east repeats his prayer, at the 
same time counting his sacred beads, every 
one of which represents a word of his prayer. 
The prayer is ended when the beads are all 
handled. Then he bows again and again, 
and reads from the leaves of his koran, 
again bowing towards the east where is 
located the mecca — the hope of his re- 
ligion. 

Having carefully looked over this most 
interesting mosque, we turned our atten- 
tion to others more ancient. The oldest 
moFque is in Old Cairo, dating from 643 
A. D. It is in a process of decay. It con- 
tains 306 pillars, being planned somewhat 
after the style of old Egyptian temples. 
The court measures 350x40Q feet. The pil- 
lars are singularly placed. One row is on 
the west side, three on the north and south 
sides, and six rows on the east side. One 
of the pillars boars the name, " Moham- 
med." MoBt beautiful paintings and deco- 
rations are profusely distributed in the 
court and place of prayer. The oldest 
mosque in New Cairo is called " Mosque of 
Tayloon." It is also au interesting place, 
as the Arabs designate it as the " Fortress 
of the Goat," because it is said to mark the 
the spot where Abraham offered up 
the ram. It was built many years 
before the present Cairo was founded 
It is built with pointed arches, after 
the plan of the "Kaaba" at Mecca. 
Ita interior is a series of arcades. There 
en pulpit which is a grand speci- 



men of wood carving. Its Is known to 
date from the thirteenth century. Around 
the outside of the minaret of this mosque 
is a spiral staircase built so that the sultan 
could ride to the top on horseback. In the 
center of the court, we are shown a tree 
which is said to mark the the place where 
Noah's ark rested. We soon entered an- 
other mosque near by, known as that of 
Sultan Hassan. It is near the citadel and 
is built of stone taken from some of the 
numerous Gizeh pyramids. It was built 
by the sultan in three years 1356-8 in the 
royal splendor of that century. It is a 
mosque of great beauty, and has a magnifi- 
cently ornamented porch, an extensive 
court, and a minaret of great height from 
which calls for prayer are sounded. In the 
building is Hassan's tomb upon which 
rests a copy of the Koran. The story is 
told that when this mosque was finished, 
the architect's hand was cut off to prevent 
his executing a similar work. 

The novelty of visiting mosques had been 
fully satisfied, and we concluded our visit 
to them by entering the noted mosque 
called El Azhar, or the University of Cairo. 
It is known as one of the most important 
of the Moslem schools. (I have forgottten 
to note that as these mosques are sacred 
places, we are not permitted to enter them 
in our ordinary foot apparel. So we al- 
lowed the Arab who is stationed at the en- 
trance, to cover oar shoes with sacred moc- 
casins, which came near being lost as we 
shuffled our feet along in the endeavor to 
retain them. Backsheesh is demanded in- 
variably for their use.) This mosque has 
six gates and we enter one known as the 
"Gate of the Barbers," on three of the sides 
of the open court are compartments, each 
of which is reserved for worshippers who 
belong to a certain country. In the court 
we see many circles of Arab boys clothed 
in a variety of colors, seated on the ground, 
and listening to their teachers, or commit- 



ting portions of the Koran to memory. We 
ontered several of the compartments view- 
ing numerous students in their acts of wor- 
ship. It was a singular scene. Each one 
before entering, going through the usual 
ablution at the fountain in the court, be- 
fore taking position for prayers. "The main 
room of the mosque is very large. Its ceil- 
ing is supported upon 280 pillars of various 
kinds ot stone, highly ornamented and hav- 
ing most elegant capitals. Here we see the 
students pursuing their studies. They are 
all seated upon the richly carpeted floor, 
(covered by rugs,) and are endeavoring to 
solve the mysteries of the Koran. The 
curriculum also includes algebra and math- 
ematics, but the chief intellectual exercise 
concerns Mohammedan law and religion- 
We were told that the number of students 
enrolled ranges from 10,000 to 13,000 ; in 
the department shown us, not over 2,000 
were to be seen. They are seated in circles 
around their teachers learning by heart or 
receiving instruction. They are a curious 
looking group of humanity, clothed in 
Arab costume, and all seem to be intent 
upon their work. As we passed around 
among them, they appeared to take very 
little notice of the stranger who was with 
them. In one portion we noticed pupils 
saying their lessons aloud, and swinging 
their bodies backwards and forwards as they 
endeavored to commit to memory the task 
allotted them. They remain from three to 
five years and their education, from the 
Mohammedan point of view, is thought to be 
the most thorough known to their educators. 
We left this university impressed with the 
devotion to their religious views shown by 
these Arabs. When we realize that Egypt 
alone has an Arab population of about 
eight millions of souls, and that only about 
100,000 foreigners are on Egyptian soil, 
and they divided into various sects, and 
that the Coptic native Christians are com- 
paratively few in number, it becomes plain 



that the followers of Mahomet, compose a 
roligious body which must continue to in-, 
crease in numbers, and remain the domi- 
nant religious power of Egypt for centuries 

to come. 

■ 
We have told the reader something of 

the present or new Cairo, and now will 
make a visit to, what is called by the drag- 
oman, Old Cairo. This part of the city 
dates from 638 A. D. , and has an old 
mosque which we found to be in a very 
dilapidated condition. Near the entrance 
are two columns only about ten or twelve 
inches apart. It was amusing to witness 
Arabs endeavoring to squeeze between 
them, a passage being regarded as a sure 
sign that Mahomet Would safely bear the 
soul of the one who passed, to the final 
haven of rest. Many failed, and moved 
away with bowed heads. We were invited 
to try a passage and did so, and failed, 
greatly to the amusement of the Arabs. 
But as ours was simply an act for amuse- 
ment and not a religious act, we did not 
show other than a hearty good laugh over 
our failure to obtain a safe patsage into the 
Mohammedan heaven. The streets of Old 
Cairo are merely narrow passages. Our don- 
key elevates us jubt enough to be on a level 
with the latticed windows and carved wood- 
screeiis, which hide the faces of the beauti- 
ful girls of the old city from view. An 
occasional opening, however, brings the 
sharp gleamimg eyes of the inmates upon 
us, and the strange scene calls to mind that 
we are amid the enchanted ground where 
was laid many of the scenes so vividly por- 
trayed in the Arabian Nights. We are 
soon at the door of an old Coptic church 
called A boo Sergah, and are permitted to 
enter. 

The Bible student will call to mind that 
Joseph and Mary, in the days of King 
Herod fled to Egypt with the young child 
Jesus. The tradition toid here is that on 
entering Egypt, they came to Heliopolis, 



where a tree is still shown, marking the 
spot where, at a well, the Virgin Mary 
washed their clothing. From Heliopolis 
they continued on to Cairo, and there re- 
mained for a time. This old Coptic church 
is a curious structure ; it rests on a rocky 
foundation and underneath it we wore con- 
ducted, to view the sacred place where the 
Holy Family remained for a long time,hid- 
den, until they were ready to return to 
Palietine, There is a room of fair size, 
with smaller rooms adjoining ; we are 
shown the virgin's chair, and many other 
sacred relics, among which is a font 
in which the Saviour was baptised. This 
old stone house, cut in the rock, upon 
which this church stands, is evidently of 
very ancient origin, and is carefully pre- 
served, and sacredly regarded by the 
Christian Copts as the dwelling place of 
the Holy Family in Egypt. We returned 
to the church to find the Coptic priest at 
his pulpit, and before him a copy of the 
New Testament in the Coptic language. 
We were permitted to examine the record 
which is on a sort of parchment, and has 
many illustrations on each page. We 
asked for the reading of a chapter, and heard 
it in the Coptic, which sounded to us like 
the Arabic. Our dragoman very kindly 
translated several verses for us, and we recog- 
nized them as the record in the gospel of St 
Matthew, of the angel appearing to Joseph 
in a dream, telling him to take the young 
child and his mother and flee into E^ypt, 
Tiiis priest always wears his hat while in 
the church ; the pulpit stood in the center 
of the room and seats were placed around 
tno walls— no pews as in our churches 
Baptism is regarded as a saving ordinance, 
and all children are baptised ; from which 
time they are regarded as belonging to the 
heavenly family. 

As we were in the vicinity of what i 8 
termed the "village of the Dervishes," a 
8 <ct of the Mohammedans, a description of 



their form of worship will prove interesting. 
This worship is seon only on a Friday, at 
which time the inoeque is usually crowded, 
especially with visitors. The devotions are 
led by a Sheikh. He seats himself in iront 
of the "Kibleh," which is always in the 
east, so as to look towards Mecca. He re- 
cites a short prayer, to which the Dervishes 
who are arranged in a half circle around 
him, respond, by saying "allah ;" they 
rise to their feet, repeating the word with 
great energy, and make a grunting noiie 
something like that of pigs. They are 
soon moving to and fro, and become grad- 
ually more and more excited, all joining in 
a s jrt of a circular dance. As the dance 
proceeds tambourines and drums are intro- 
duced. This seems to stimulate the motion 
of the dancers ; odo or two pass into the 
middle of the ring, where they whirl around 
in a violent manner, extending their arms 
and appearing as if they would be unable 
to keep their footing. During the dance, 
the monotonous wail which is made by the 
dancers seems to excite the Arabs present 
to a pitch of fervor. With perfect drill 
they rolled their heads from side to side and 
then swayed their bodies forwards and 
backwards. Then they would knell and 
do the same ; during all this they keep re- 
peating in a deep gutteral voice, "allah." 
This word is significant of the Arab's be- 
lief in the unity of God. This service is a 
continual repetition, and continues until 
the physical powers of the dancers are ex- 
hausted. Then follows a short prayer by 
the Sheikh, the excitement abates, when all 
leave the moeque. We could not but re- 
call many of the acts of America's Salva- 
tion Army in the variety of this worship. 

We were next conducted to the Island 
of Rhoda, in the Nile adjoining Old Cairo. 
It is about two miles in length and has 
thereon several beautiful gardens. Here 
we saw the coffee plant bearing its 
aromatic berries. It is said to bo the only 
spot in Egypt whore the plant will fully 



mature, and all the product of this island 
goes into the house of the khedive. On 
this island is a pillar known as the Nilome- 
ter. It is placed in the center of a well 
about sixteen feet square. The well is con- 
nected with the Nile by a channel. The 
pillar i3 divided into seventeen parts, each 
representing a cubit, which is about twenty- 
one inches (the length varies in different 
countries) ; and each cubit is divided into 
twenty-four parts. When the Nile is at 
its lowest level it stands at seven cubits in 
this well, and when it reaches sixteen cu- 
bits, the shiekh of the Nile proclaims that 
enough water has come into the river to ad- 
mit of cutting a dam which has prevented 
the water from flowing over the country. 
Then there is general rejoicing, as there is 
promise of an abundant harvest during the 
year. The Nile reaches its highest level 
some time in the month of August. At 
the north end of this island stands a beauti- 
ful residence, which is occupied at times by 
some of the family of Egypt's ruler. It 
was j ust opposite this place, according to 
the tradition, that the princess who became 
the wife of Joseph, came down to wash 
herself at the river and found the infant 
Moses, in the bulrushes. There is no es- 
pecial mark set up to designate this event 
of Bible history. It is therefore a view of 
scenery similar to that, which existed in the 
century when the Pharaohs were the rulers 
of Egypt. 

Our return was by way of the old road- 
way that leads to the grounds where once 
stood the ancient city of Heliopolis. Here 
we see the sycamore tree, called by the 
Arabs the " Virgin's Tree ;" under which 
they declare the Virgin Mary sat and rested 
during her flight into Egypt. Near the 
tree is a beautiful Aswan granite obelisk, 
which bible students say marks the site of 
the ancient city of Heliopolis, called "On," 
in Gen. xii, 46. The obelisk is sixty-six 
feet high and was set up, according to his- 



tory, about 2,500 years before the Christian 
era. It was at Heliopolis that Joseph mar- 
ried the daughter of Potiphar a priest of 
On. It was formerly peopled by many 
Jews ; now we see only a small village, 
having an Arab name. 



The Glories of Ancient Egypt. 

The Historical and Architectural Interest 
of Those Wonderful Structures. 



A Visit to the Pyramids-The Sphinx- Ruins 
of Memphis— Worship of Apis Bulls— The 
Gizeh Museum at Cairo — Its Remarkable 
Collection— The Life of the Arab Peasant 
En route to Palestine. 



BY A, Ii. UKDERII1L.JL. 



(No. 9.) 



Our next excursion was to view tho 
noted pyramids of Gizeh, on the op- 
posite side of the Nile from Cairo, 
which were built as tombs, the idea being 
that their immensity would prevent a mo- 
lestation of these resting places of the dead. 
It is a good six miles ride from Cairo to the 
Mena House, a beautiful hotel that is near 
the pyramids. \\ e get a glimpse of them 
when we are about four miles away, and 
very soon think we are very near them, 
but are soon undeceived, as for three miles 
we view them just the same as when at 
their base. The clear, blue sky causes 
this, as distances are very uncertain in 
Egypt when measured by the eye. As we 
near these ancient cemeteries of former rul- 
ers, we recall those lines of the poet : — 

array 
re man has rivalled nature most, 

... the rockiest coast, 



Or wind* on mountain steeps, and like endurance 
boast." 

We are at the Mena House, and here 
mount a camel for a tour among the many 
pyramids and ruins of pyramids that loom 
up before us. Camel mounting is a very 
easy matter as they lie upon the ground and 
stretch their long necks out flat on the 
white sand. The work comes when the 
animal begins to rise. First, his hind 
; legs are partly raised which sends you for- 
1 ward with a lunge and you try to cling 
closely to the so-called saddle you are seated 
upon, or rather think you are; while you 
are trying to adjust yourself to the situation, 
the raising of the fore legs reverses the pro- 
cess, and if you are not possessed of a strong 
grip on the front of your so-called saddle 
you are nearly pitched backwards. Then 
follows the effort of the camel to straighten 
his hind and fore legs, a movement which 



gives you the feeling, that you are certain 
to go to the sand. Then the jolting move- 
ment of the camel's motion follows, but one 
sooix gets used to this, and you rejoice that 
your high position affords a commanding 
view of everything around you. There are 
before us three great pyramids that stand 
very near each other. They are known as 
Cheops, Chefren and Her. The remains of 
some seventy-five pyramids have been 
found and it is noticed that they have al- 
ways been built in groups. Our Arab 
camel driver takes us over the sand of the 
desert as we view these many ruins, and we 
are amazed at the extent and number of 
these structures. It appears that before 
the actual building of a pyramid was begun, 
a suitable rocky site was chosen and cleared, 
a mas3 of rock being left in the middle of 
the area to form the core of the building. 
Then a truncated pyramid was started 
around the core, the angles of which were 
filled with blocks of stone. Layer after 
layer of stone was then built around the 
work, which grew larger and larger until it 
was finished. History says that the Per- 
sians opened these pyramids four or five 
centuries before the Christian era ; also, 
that the stone of all those seen in ruins, can 
now be found in the numerous mosques 
that are seen in Cairo. 

We pass round and round " Cheops," 
and seeing the enormous size of the masses 
of stone of which it is composed, the sense 
of wonder produced by these monuments of 
a past age, is increased. This is the pyra- 
mid usually ascended and entered by tou- 
rists. It oovers eleven acres of ground. 
Its base measures 755 feet each way ; its 
height now 461 feet, but it is said to have 
been originally 480 feet. The stone used 
in its construction amounts in co ntents to 
85,000,000 cubic feet. There is a flat space 
at the top about thirty feet square. There 
is an opening on the north side about 46 
feet above ground, from which a passage 
320 feet long leads to what is called the 



" King's Chamber." Inside the chamber 
lies the empty, coverless, broken red granite 
sarcophagus of Cheops. Its historian says, 
11 twenty years were spent in erecting this 
$y rain id and 860,000 men worked continu- 
ously in building it." Some of the blocks 
of granite are of enormous size ; one was 
measured showing 5x20 feet and of propor- 
tionate thickness It is evident that the 
builders first cut down into solid rock to 
make the various chambers, and then faced 
the rocky rooms with the massive granite 
walls. There are no inscriptions upon the 
walls in the rooms of the pyramid. It is a 
dusty, dirty pathway that leads inside, and 
really the view is not worth the sacrifice of 
pure air necessary to enter this mass of 
stone. To have some idea of the immense 
size of this pyramid it is well to call to 
mind that the extreme height of the New 
York World building, in New York city, 
is 375 feet, and " Cheops " stands more than 
one hundred feet above the World's spire. 
While circling around "Cheops" on our 
camel we witnessed people making its ascent 
for a view. The sheik who cares for the 
pyramids, furnishes two Arab guides to 
help make the ascent. They virtually pull 
you up, and when you are up one-half the 
way, invariably demand backsheesh to "get 
you safely to the top ; then your descent is 
made the occasion for additional contribu- 
tions, and you reach the sandy earth having 
been used by these keen-eyed Mussulmen 
as a leach for their covetousness. We did 
not attempt the ascent, being satisfied* to 
witness others do so. " Cheops " is a mon- 
ument that will stand as long as time shall 
go on. It is now claimed by historians to 
have been built 3,700 years before the 
Christian era, as the name, " Cheops," was 
found written in red ink upon the blocks of 
stone inside it. 

We now ride around " Chefren," the 
second pyramid in size. This was built 
about one hundred years later than " Che- 
ops," and it looks to be about the same size 



and hight. This, too, has a sepulchral 
chamber in which is seen an inscription, 
saying that it was opened in the year 1200 
by the sultan, who was a son of Saladin. 
It is very difficult to make its ascent. The 
Egyptians call the third large pyramid 
"Her." It is said to be over 200 feet 
high. This was built about 3,600 years 
before the Christian era. The outside has 
been greatly damaged, which enables the 
visitor to see how it was built. But one 
chamber is in this pyramid, in which was 
found a stone sarcophagus, but it has been 
removed. The coffin was taken to the 
British museum. It was covered with in- 
scriptions which religious writers say, proves 
that as far back as 3,600 years before Christ 
the Egyptian religion was established on a 
firm base ; that the doctrine of immortality 
was already deeply rooted in the human 
mind. 

We now directed our Arab camel driver 
to pilot us to that wonderful statue known 
to all students of history — the Sphinx. Ii 
is situate about a fourth mile from the 
Great Pyramid, and is as much greater 
than all other sphinxfs as the pyramids 
are greater than all other tombs. The 
Sphinx is hewn \>ut of a solid rock, with 
the exception of the fore paws ; the body is 
about 150 feet long ; the paws 60 feet long ; 
the head 30 feet long ; tho face 14 feet 
wide ; and from the top of the head to the 
base of the monument, the distance is 70 
feet. Originally thero probably were orna- 
ments upon the head ; as now seen, it is 
uncovered ; the body much injured, caused 
it is said by being used by the Moham- 
medan rulers for a target. On one of the 
paws is an inscription, which has been 
translated by Dr. Young, as follows : — 
'* Thy form stupendous here the gods have placed, 
Sparing each spot of hiirvest-bearing land ; 
And with this wondrous work of art have graced, 
The rocky Isle encumbered once with sand ; 
And near the pyramids lpive hid thee stand : 
Not that fierce Sphinx that Thebes erewhile laid 
waste. 



But great Latona's serva.t mild ami 
Watching that prince beloved who fill 
Of Egypt's plains, and calls the Nile his own. 
That heavenly monarch (who his foes defies) 
Like Vulcan powerful, and like Pallas wise." 

We leave this massive stone idol (for it 
appears to be nothing else), with the feeling 
that its builders had some conception of 
Deity from the immensity of their image. 
We move on to view, at a short distance 
from the Sphinx, a large granite or lime- 
stone temple excavated by the explorer, 
Mariette, in 1853. This temple is con- 
structed of red granite which came from 
the quarry of Assouan, up the Nile. It is 
lined in part with magnificent slabs of ala- 
baster. It has seven sanctuaries, but is un- 
adorned with sculpture or engraved work. 
We see niches in some of the walls indica- 
ting that they were intended as depositaries 
for mummies. We were conducted to what 
is called " Campbell's Tomb," named for a 
gentleman who had much to do with its 
excavation. The shaft is over fifty feet 
deep, and at the bottom is a small chamber. 
Here were found sarcophagi which are seen 
in the museum. The Gizeh Pyramids are 
surrounded by a large number of tombs of 
high officials, and others connected with 
the services that were carried on in honor of 
the kings who built the pyramids 

Our attention was now directed to the 
ruins of Memphis, once the capital of 
Egypt, and to the antiquities of Sakkarah 
Menes, the first Egyptian king, 44(0 B. C, 
is said to have built Memphis. Alas to- j 
day, it is a vanished city ; all is ruin — only { 
two small villages being seen upon the I 
plain where it once stood in all its glory. 
Here stood numerous temples, and history 
records that " the hight of splendor which 
Memphis enjoyed was probably never ex- 
celled." The groat Rameses II. set up 
here a statue of himself, which was raised 
from its hidden bed in 1887. It is made 
of limestone, standing 42 feet high, bearing 
tho translated inscription : " Rameses, be- 
loved of Amen." This statue stood in 






front of one of Memphis' former temples. 
Sakkarah was the cemetery of Memphis. 
There were many pyramids ; some look as 
if they had never been finished, caused by 
having been broken in parts by the ruth- 
less hands of the Arabs. There are tombs 
called Mastabas, being large rooms divided 
into chambers adorned with paintings and 
sculptured figures, and endless hieroglyph • 
ics. Here are also burial shafts, down 
which you fear to look, and which pierce 
down into the bowels of the earth ; formerly 
the depositories cf the countless number of 
mummies that came from Memphis. The 
whole scene around Sakkarah is a virtual 
charnel house. Around us lie fragments 
of bones, skulls, many with grinning teeth; 
bits of mummy cloth, and amid it all, the 
odor of pitch, reminding us of the use of 
that article by the Egyptians in preserving 
the bodies of their dead. The ruin and des- 
olation that now appear at Sakkarah is, 
without doubt, a partial fulfillment of the 
rophecy that predicted the Pharaohs down- 
fall because of their idolatrous living. 

It is fitting that we close this description 
with a view of the Apis mausoleum, in 
which all the Apis bulls at Memphis were 
buried. Herodotus states : "the Apis is 
the calf of a cow incapable of conceiving 
another offspring ; and the Egyptians say 
that lightning descends upon the cow from 
heaven, and thenceforth it brings forth the 
Apis." Above each tomb of an Apris bull 
was built a chapel ; it is this series of chap- 
els that forms the serapeum or mausoleum. 
The pharaohs of that age worshipped Deity 
in animal forms, and in consequence buried 
the Apis bulls with much pomp and splen- 
dor. This tomb was discovered by Mari- 
etta. Before reaching it he unearthed an 
avenue lined with sphinxes; also bringing to 
light eleven statues of Greek philosophers, 
and then these vaults, in which these bulls 
were entombed. Entering, through a reries 
of long tunnels, on either side are rooms 
pear to have been chapels, like those 



seen in a large cathedral. We are shown 
sixty-four vaults excavated on each side of 
a gallery. In these vaults stand large sar- 
cophagi hewn from single blocks of granite. 
They are fully twelve feet square and had 
massive lids or covers. It was in these sar- 
cophagi that the sacred Api3 deities were 
buried. When opened by Mariette, he 
found all but two had been rifled of their 
contents, and the two contained only a few 
relics of no great value On the walls of 
the chapels were found tablets giving ac- 
curate chronological data of Egypt's history 
giving the year, month and days of the 
reign of the king in which the Apis bull 
was worshipped and in whose honor these 
tablets were set up. 

The principal attraction in Cairo for visit- 
ors is the museum at Gizeh. We bad pur- 
posely reserved this for our last day in 
Cairo because it contains nearly ail the 
contents found in all the old temples and 
tombs of Egypt. The museum is on the 
other side of the Nile from Cairo, and we 
take a carriage in the early morning, know- 
ing we have a long day 's work before us. 
As we depart from our hotel we drive 
j amid what appears like all the Arabs of 
lower Egypt in procession entering the 
city. It is the vast host of donkeys, cam- 
els, and their drivers, loaded down with 
the products of the gardens which abound j 
everywhere on the plains adjoining the | 
Nile around Cairo. The streets are so j 
blocked that it is with difficulty our coach- \ 
man finds a passage for the carriage. But 
the novel scene is pleasing, and the delay 
is not noticed. On every street where resi- 
dences are located, we see flocks of goats ; . 
also milch cows, many with their calves by 
their side ; also the Arab shepherds who 
accompany them. It is the custom here to 
do milking at the front of the dwellings 
and hotels. The same course is pursued in 
the evening. After morning milkings the 
shepherds drive their flocks to the pastures 



outside the city and with crook in hand 
"mind their flocks" during the day. 

We are soon at the Nile, and view the 
handsome "Bridge of Lions or Kassr-en- 
Nil," which we are to cross. It is desig- 
nated a bridge of lions because of the many 
handsome, full-sized, marble lions that are 
seen on the bridge. It is a massive stone 
structure with two roadways for vehicles 
and two for pedestrians. Once more do 
we moot long bnes of camels and donkeys, 
loaded with merchandise ; also hosts of 
Arab men and women coming to Cairo. A 
donkey cart having sittings for six or 
eight is a novel sight as the women endeav- 
or to adjust their veils and head dress so as 
not to be too closely observed as we pass by. 
It seems as though we could hardly pass 
the bridge so great is the crowd upon 
it. But when over we enter a beauti- 
ful avenue of trees, which line the quay 
on the Nile as we proceed to the museum. 
The long procession of visitors to the city 
continues and lasts until we reach the 
great museum. And it is great, because 
the Egyptian collection surpasses in singu- 
larity and antiquity every other collection 
in the known world. 

We find the museum building to be a 

handsome structure which was once known 

as the Palace of Gizeh. It is said to have 

cost nearly $25,000,000. It was opened 

by the Khedive in 1^90, and now is known 

as the Gizeh museum. There are ninety 

rooms tilled with Egyptian curiosities, and 

among them all the monuments and statues 

and nearly all the mummies and mummy 

cases, sarcophaghi and their contents, of 

the royal families of Egypt from Men es, 

4,400, B. C , down to the disappearance 

irt of embalming, 500, A. D. We 

apent the imsi of one day looking over the 

contents of the museum, until our eyes be- 

ti red and our brain also in en- 

mprehend the wonderful 

.ion of the past ages that was before 



us. Among the many other curi' 
were the contents of all the old temples 
and tombs we had visited up the Nile, and 
a view of them recalled vividly their form- 
er resting places. We cannot attempt to 
give *.he reader a list of what is to be seen 
in tbe Gizeh. It would require a large 
volumo to do so. But we will speak of a 
few of the prominent objects. 

In a series of rooms are arranged all the 
mummies of the priests cf Amen, thirty in 
number, brought from Thebes. The cof- 
fins are ornamented with mythological 
scenes and many figures of the gods wor- 
shipped by the Egyptians 1,000 years be- 
fore Christ. In another large room are 
placed all the "Denel Bahari" mummies, 
some twenty-seven in number. Here we 
looked upon the face of Seti I., Barneses 
II., and Thothraes III., resting in their 
sarcophagi, side by side We view them 
through a glass covering. We had been 
in the splendid tombs they had builded for 
ih'inselves near Luxor, and to look upon 
such perfectly preserved monuments of 
human clay as they presented, was a great 
surprise. Seti I. looked every whit, a no- 
ble king ; Barneses II. gave evidence in 
tbe lines of his features to be an overbear- 
ing, haughty oppressor, which history 
states he was, for did he not make elaves 
of the hosts of Israel ? The mummy of his 
daughter, Thermusis, who was the preserver 
of Moses, and through whose influence he 
was afterwards instructed "in the wisdom 
of the Egyptians" is also before us. Her 
remains are jerfectly preserved even U. the 
flowers which adorn her lifeless body. 
Flowers are found in very many of the 
mummy cases, showing that the Pharaohs 
had a respect for their dead similar to that 
shown at the present day. As many of 
our readers have never seen a mummy it is 
well to say it is a term applied to a body 
n\ decay by means of bitumen, 
spices and gums. Tbe best pre-ervod have 
I through the nose, the 






intestines entirely removed, the cavity be- 
ing tilled with aromatic substances and 
finally wrapped in strips of fine linen 
smeared with gum. Such preservation as 
that of Seti I. costing, sa\s the historian of 
the museum, a talent of silver, about $1250 
of our money. There were cheaper ways 
of embalming, costing not over $300, and 
still another process, injecting an astringent 
of great strength and then placing the body 
in salt for several months. The art of 
mummifying was at its highest perfection 
at Thebes and continued to be used until 
about 500 years after the birth of Christ. 
The Egyptians believed that the soul would 
return to the body in which it formerly 
dwelt, and therefore mummified the bodies 
of their dead. 

In one large handsome room are exhib- 
ted several fine "mastabas," from Sak- 
fcarah, The brightness of the colors, the 
the vigor of the figures, and the beauty of 
the hieroglyphics upon these fine monu- 
ments of the early dynasties make them 
objects ot great interest. The "mastaba" is 
a heavy, massive building of rectangular 
shape. They vary in size and are tombs of 
a peculiar order. They look like unfinish- 
ed pyramids but really are not so, as the 
interior walls are sculptured. Statues 
of the dead man are frequently found within 
them. They appear to be tombs of people 
who placed their dead above ground. They 
were called according to the hieroglyphics 
"the house of eternity." They are made 
of very handsome marble. Many rooms 
of statuary are to be seen. Two figures of 
limestonfi, standing side by side are worthy 
of mention. They are labelled "Prince 
Rahetep," and his wife "Nefert." The 
date of those statues is given as 4,000, 
B C. , and they have every appearance of 
life, and their sculpture is perfect. The 
eyes are filled with quartz or rock crystal, 
and they are before us as representatives of 
tin age before Abraham visited Egypt. 
They wore taken from the innermost recess 



of a prince's tomb. "When we consider 
that these memorials of affection were 
never intended to see the light of day, hav- 
ing been placed in the tomb where people 
they represent were buried, we get some 
idea of the people who lived in Egypt in 
the age the monuments were sculptured. 

We are pleased also with two splendid 
colossal statues of the god Ptah, found in 
1892. They are curiosities that will al- 
ways command the attention of visitors to 
the museum. In glass cases, at full length 
are copies of the "Book of the Dead." This 
is a series of chapters in Egyptian characters 
which is also called "coming forth by 
day." It illustrates in hieroglyphics the 
Egyptian idea of a return to the body and 
to life of the soul or spirit of the departed. 
Nearly all mummy cases and the walls of 
the tombs are covered with extracts from 
it. Some of the chapters in the book are 
of great antiquity going back to 2600, 
B. U In other cases are seen a very 
great display of scarab jewelry and scarabs 
of every kind. This is a name given to 
the myriads of models of a certain beetle 
which are found on mummies and tombs, 
and in the ruins of temples and other build- 
j ings in Egypt. There were three classes of 
! scarabs, ornamental, historical and fune- 
I real, and tourists are always besieged by 
| Arabs up the Nile to buy some of these 
relics —a great manny of which they have 
recently manufactured. Other eases show 
a display of Egyptian papyri of all the va- 
rious dynasties. We see also a great dis- 
play of jewelry, coins, carvings in wood, 
bone, marble, etc. In other departments 
are most skillfully designed cartouches and 
seals of kings, and jewelry once worn by 
Egyptian princes that surpass in beauty 
any we have in our age. In some of the 
rooms designers were busy making copies 
of some of this jewelry, which could now 
be worn and would outshine in design and 
beauty any made at the present day. The 



museum also contains all the antiquities 
yet found pertaining to the Greek, Roman, 
Arabic, and Coptic periods. 

We returned to Cairo weary with our 
day's work at Gizeh, and with the convic- 
tion that the Egyptians in many of the 
arts were our equals if not our superiors. 

In agriculture they were pastoral and to- 
day the same scenes are witnessed as re- 
corded in Bible history. The oxen con- 
tinue to draw the wooden plow and tread 
out tne grain ; the shepherd is everywhere 
seen leading and caring for his sheep and 
goats ; the women continue to grind the 
corn and carry the water in ancient water 
pots. The goat skin which retai us the form 
of the animal's body and legs is also used 
as a means of transporting water. The 
long tents of the Bedouin tribes cover the 
plains presenting a living picture of Bible 
history. The advancement in agriculture 
is far behind most countries. This is 
due no doubt, to the hot climate, but more 
particularly to the incapacity of the khed- 
ives who have ruled the country. While 
the ruler has been living in luxury and 
extravagance, and drawing heavy taxes 
from the common people, even going so 
far as to mortgage the real estate for loans, 
which impoverishes the country, the fella- 
hin or farmers have been kept down low 
in the scale of advancement. In our Nile 
travel we came in very close contact with 
these people, were often at iheir huts or 
mud houses, and in their motques and 
bazaars. They are a good natured race 
and it appeared to us that if they had the 
opportunity to obtain education and were 
taught how to use the implements of ag- 
riculture used in America, they would 
make good farmers. They are not lazy 
but appear willing to work. They are far 
from being tidy, and the young girls espe- 
cially, are very repulsive. This comes be- 
cause they are kept busy in gathering the 
droppings from animals, which they gather 



with their hands, carrying it on their heads 
in wooden bowls to the huts, where it is 
dried into cakes and afterwards used for 
fuel. It is the custom also of the women 
to stain their nails a sort of red color, and 
many of them tattoo their chins and fore- 
heads Very few of these Arabs have good 
eyes caused by the mothers refusing to 
drive away flies when they gather on their 
children's faces and about the eyes. They 
say it is unlucky to do so, and not one can 
be persuaded otherwise. The sight of little 
children suffering because of this course 
of the mothers was very painfui. 

The men labor for a mere pittance and 
f >t this reason have no opportunity to 
improve their condition. A few have 
pieces of land that they call their own, but 
a large proportion of the soil is rented to 
them by the goveanment ; or they are em- 
ployed by other renters of land who pay 
them rarely enough to keep them living. To 
tourists they appear as a population of beg- 
gars as everywhere you go among tLem 
the children, even to the babe-ir.-arms hold 
out their hand for "backsheesh." They are 
very strict in their religious devotions. At 
sunrise and at sunset they always wash and 
kneel for prayer, with iheir beads, facing to 
the east Their poverty, no matter if they 
have flocks of sheep, prevents them from 
eating meat more than three or four 
times a year. Bread is their principal food 
together with the fruits of the country. 

The hope for Christianity in Egypt is in 
the good work done by the enlightened 
portion of the Coptic population. Their 
number is small compared with tne great 
body of Arabs, yet the schools they have es- 
tablished are making an impression that 
must result in good. Tho children are not 
only taught to write and read, but im- 
provement in social life after the ways of 
English speaking people. Tho hope of 
Egypt in our opinion is in the elevation of 
the standard in which woman is held. As 
long as woman is kept in t! iun she 






now holds in the country, there is little 
hope for improvement. The Coptic Christ- 
ians endeavor to do this work, but the 
long held opinions of the disciples of Ma- 
homet, who are so numerous, make slow 
and discouraging work for the Copts, who 
inhabit chiefly the cities of Upper Egypt, 
such as Assiout and Eii'u. It is calculated 
that there are 360,000 Copts now in Egypt ; 
they are engaged as goldsmiths, cloth work- 
ers and other trades. Qaitea large num- 
ber of them are clerks , and accountants in 
the postal, telegraph, railway and govern- 
mental offices. They originate from hav- 
ing embraced the doctrines of Christianity 
when preached by St. Mark at Alexandria.* 
They have a few churches in Cairo, and 
quite a number up the Nile. Arabic liter- 
ature in the form of tracts is frequently 
seen in the hands of the Arabs issued from 
the Coptic mission at Cairo. But a much 
higher idea of Christian life must be incul- 
cated in the Coptic churches before their 
influence will be great in converting the 
disciples of Mahomet to a change from 
their faith in the doctrines of the Koran 
I leave this city tomorrow by rail through 
Lower Egypt for Ismalia and Port Said, 
where I take steamer for Joppa, now called 
Jaffa, in Palestine. a l. u. 



From Cairo to Jerusalem. 

The Delta of Egypt-— The Suez Canal and 
Port Said — The Port of Joppa — Biblical 
Scenes Recalled — The Trip by Rail to 

Jerusalem Impressions of the Sacred, 

Walled City. 



BY A. Ii. UNDERHIliL.. 



(No. 10.) 



Athens, Greece, April 20, 1895. 

Before leaving Cairo, we joined a party 
of thirty persons from Berlin, Germany, 
under the escort of Mr. Hugo Stangen of 
that city. They were all going "our way," 
that is, through Palestine and Greece, and 
we thought it would be pleasant to travel 
with such a party, especially as they were 
known to be gentlemen and ladies moving 
in the best circles in Germany. Among 
them were four clergymen, one, Dr. Rogge, 
chaplain at Potsdam to the military and 
royal households in that noted summer res- 
idence of the German royalty. Several of 
the ladies and gentlemen spoke English, 
so that we were very soon made acquainted 
with all the party, and they made it very 
pleasant for us as we journeyed together. 

It was a beautiful day when our car- 
riage procession moved from Shepheard's 
hotel for the station, where we were to 
travel toward Port Said. The usual sights 
seen in the streets of Cairo met our view, 
and the number of our carriages attracted 
great attention from the Arabs, who are 
ever on the alert to look over the faces and 
costumes of tourists who visit their great 



city. The usual scene was witnessed at 
the railway station, ten Arabs to every 
passenger, desirious to assist in placing one's 
hand luggage in the compartment of the 
railway that has been assigned to you. Our 
escort had arranged to place all our luggage 
for us,and we turned the hosts of Arabs over 
to him, and made our way peaceably to 
the cars. These cars are divided into 
rooms and we enter them through doors 
opening from the compartment on each 
side of the car. The seats bring the six or 
eight passengers face to face in the compart- 
ment. "While the cars are comfortable, 
they are not favorable for viewing the 
scenery of the country, especialy to the one 
who rides backwards. I was fortunate in 
obtaining a sitting in the best place for 
looking out, and feel thankful as the scen- 
ery over what is termed the Delta of Egypt, 
is very attractive. It covers a territory of 
about 65,000 square miles from Cairo to 
the Mediterranean sea, and is called Lower 
Egypt. All over the Delta are scattered 
mounds of earth rising from the plain 
which contain the remains of ancient towns. 
There is a portion of the desert passed over 



by the railway. After much delay at the 
station, for the people move very slow in 
Eg>pt> aad the "toot" of the conductor's 
toy trumpet, (conductors carry a small horn 
looking very like a toy whistle), our train 
moved from Cairo, and we bade good bye 
to the pleasures we had passed in that 
favored spot of Egypt's attractions. It is an 
eight hours ride to Port Said, so we adjust 
our eyes so as to get a view of what may 
prove interesting for our readers. The 
roadway for many miles out from Cairo 
passes through pastoral districts where we 
see the shepherd with his sheep, the oxen 
at the wood plow and the workers at the 
"Shadoofs," drawing water for the black 
soil that is everywhere visible. The living 
green is unusually brilliant and the country 
seems as if carpeted with bright red flowersj 
they are so numerous. 

The town of Benha-el-Asl, is reached. 
In English "Benha of the honey." It is 
the capitol of Kalyub, and obtained its 
name because a Copt named Makawas, 
sent among other gifts, a jar of honey to Mu- 
hammad, the Prophet. This Makawas 
was a Jacobite, and hated the Mussulman 
When Egypt was captured by the dis- 
ciples of Mahomet, he sent presents to Mu- 
hammad, and by means of paying trib- 
ute secured to himself the liberty of pro- 
fessing the Christian religion, and asked 
that after h'is death his body might be 
buried in the church of St. John in Alex- 
andria. The town is the junction of the 
railway for Alexandria and Ismalia, and 
seems to be the center of a large traffic in 
cotton which is grown in some parts of 
Lower Egypt. We reach Kanatir a 
stopping place for those who wish to visit 
the ''Jewish llill" where a high priest of 
the Jews built a temple by the permission of 
Ptolomey Philomoter, in which Egyptian 
Jews might worship. We were satisfied 
with a view from the train, and speeded on 
to Zigazig, the capital of a province, 
and a town 40,000 inhabitants. 



The chief article of commerce 
and near by is the fresh water canal that 
flows from Cairo to Suez. Wo see many 
mounds which mark the site of a famous 
old city, known a9 "Pi-beseth." It was 
the house of Bast (Ezekiel xxx, 17) and 
it was dedicated to the goddess Bast. 
Recent excavations reveal many old 
temples in which the goddess was wor- 
£ hipped. The ceremony has been brought 
to light so far as to show something of its 
idolatry. It is thus described by Herodo- 
tus. 

"When the people are being conveyed to 
the city they embark together, a great num- 
ber of both sexes in every barge of the 
canal ; the women play castinets ; the men 
the flute the whole voyage ; the rest of 
the women and men sing and clap their 
hands together at the same time. When 
they arrive at Bubastis or Tell Basti, they 
celebrate the feast by offering up great sac- 
rifices ; and more wine is consumed at this 
festival than in all the rest of the year. It 
is calculated that 700,000 people congre- 
gate at this festival to the goddess." 

Leaving Z igazig we are running on- 
ward to Tel-el-ke-bir ; we first pass over 
the fertile country round about Zigazig, 
once the fruitful land of Goshen. Crossing 
this beautiful plain we see that it is still 
prosperous ; beautiful fields of green and 
the dwellers in the land give evidence of 
much thrift and prosperity. The city of 
Zoan, now called 8an, lies not far from 
here. The Bible student will recall that 
hither came the Patriarch Jacob as he went 
down at the call of Joseph, preceded by 
Judah, who advanced to propare Jos9ph for 
his coming. An ancient road is shown as 
the way the patriarch entered Egypt from 
Hebron and by way of Boer-sheba. We 
pass also the ancient towns, now in ruins 
of Pithorn and Barneses, which it is 
claimed are places the Israelites built for 
the king of Egypt who opprossed them. 
Roman inscriptions discovorod by an ex- 
plorer, Naville, and now in Gizoh museum 
ehow that here was the scene of the op- 



when the glory of the Lord passed over 
him. Also, the sea through which the Is- 
raelites passed safely on dry land. As our 
party was much given to story-telling as 
well as sight seeing, a yarn about the Bed 
Sea crossing must be added. The Arabs' 
are good story-tellers and one was asked if 
he knew anything about the hosts of Phar- 
aoh and the Israelites crossing the sea 
"Yes, he knew all about it ; it was all a 
mistake. It was not the Egyptians who 
followed the Israelites, but a lot of rascally 
Bedouin Arabs ; that Moses knew all about 
the tide, and he arrived when it was low 
water ; and when the Bedouins were in 
the gulf the tide came up and drowned 
them." When asked about the chariots of 
Pharaoh's host, he answered : "There 
were no chariots ; wouldn't the chariots 
have been found when the tide went out, 
if they were Israelites?" This was 
a clincher to his argument, and a hearty 
laugh followed over the ingenious story of 
our Arab friend. The clergymen of our 
party were inquisitive as to all the history 
of the land where we were, and inquired if 
manna, such as was provided for the Israel- 
ites in the wilderness was yet to be seen . 
The Arab, who had oftentimes gone over 
the old deserts, said it was still found on the 
branches and twigs (not on the leaves) of 
the "turfa" tree, a kind of tamarisk tree, j 
from which it oozes out as a consequence of | 
the sting of an insect. It is white about ! 
the size of a pea and melts in the sun. I 
Cairo druggists keep it for sale. 

The ride along the canal gives us a view ! 
of shipping passing through it. It is a sur- • 
prise to see such large vessels going through. 
They move slowly but safely and the great 
saving of time and space in rounding 
Africa to get into the waters south of th e 
Rod Sea is a wonderful incentive to the 
commerce of Egypt and of all the world 
0?er 5,000 vessels passed through this 
canal in 1894, affording a great profit upon 
the investment which built it. We hope 



pression. In one of the excavated cities 
the store chambers remain, which they 
built square with no doors, so that they 
must have entered from the top. There 
are walls three feet thick constructed of 
brick that testify to their labor upon these 
fortresses. We reached Ismalia in time 
for a good luncheon at the depot restaurant, 
and quite a little time was spent in trans, 
ferring to the new tramway of the Suez 
Canal Co., for Port Said. 

This gave opportunity to look over the 
place, which was the headquarters of the 
French engineers during the building oi 
the Suez canal. What a great work this 
is, built at a cost of nearly one hundred 
millions of dollars. It was money well in- 
vested and opened the passage between the 
neck of land which joins Asia to Africa. 
The channel which leads into this canal 
at the Suez end is 300 yards across in the 
widest part. The average width of the 
dredged channel is 90 feet, and the average 
depth 28 feet. Between Suez and Ismalia 
a lake or series of lakes is used as a part 
of the canal. Just before reaching Ismalia 
the canal comes into Lake Timsah or the 
Crocodile lake. Ismalia is at the north end 
of this lake. The tramway to Port Said 
runs along the bank which affords us a fine 
view of the canal and traffic upon it We 
pass over the plain of El Gisr, a high point 
about fifty or sixty feet above the level of 
the sea. We see the canal below in a deep 
cut 80 or 100 feet in depth. 

We here get a grand view of the lake ; 
also, the mountain psaks of the Sinai. As 
we view them, we recall that we are very 
near the rock from which Moses caused the 
water to flow, and the mount which the 
Arabs call, the "Mount of Moses," the 
mountain where God spoke to Moses from 
the burning bush, — the summit of which 
has a rocky cleft pointed out to tourists as 
the cleft in which Moses concealed himself 



to see a great canal whioh will connect the 
Atlantic with the Pacific finished ere many 
years pass by and it should be an American 
enterprise, saving to commerce the vast 
trip around Cape Horn. It would certain- 
ly yield an enormous profit on the invest- 
ment, and our government should give the 
enterprise every encouragement necessary. 
As we near Port Said, the canal is carried 
through a lake in a perfectly straight line 
until it reaches Port Said. 

This town is a product of the canal and 
has now a population of about 10,000. It 
stands on an island which separates the 
lake from the Mediterranean Sea. The 
harbor and two break- waters protect it, 
and are flae pieoes of work— one break- 
water one mile loDg, the other nearly twj 
miles. A lighthouse, lighted by electricity, 
the light of which can be seen for twenty 
miles, affords a good entrance to the harbor 
for all vessels. The total length of the 
channel from Port Said to Sj;z is about 
one hundred miles. We found good ac- 
commodations on our steamer here of the 
Austrian Lloyd line, and were soon learn- 
ing over the blue waters of the Mediterra- 
nean for Jaffa. A good meal, which is al- 
ways served upon this line of boats and a 
refreshing night's rest fitted us for a view 
of Joppa or Jaffa, in the morning. 

We awake to find our steamer anchored 
one mile or more from the city. We have 
our first glimpse of the "Holy L \nd," and 
what an agitation of feeling is experienced 
as we view the land of the Patriarchs for 
the first time. When we left our Ameri- 
can home, we had not even a thought of 
looking upon the land where lived Abraham, 
Isaac and Joseph ; the city conquered by 
David and enriched by Solomon ; the sa- 
cred place on which our Savior gave 
his life to redeem mankind ; but after 
our arrival in Europe our thoughts were 
directed hither, and our first sight of Pal- 
estine is through a most brilliant sun- 



light that seems to throw a halo of glory 
over the entire panorama before U9. It 
took several hours to effect our landing, as 
Jaffa has no harbor, and it is only under 
favorable circumstances that a vessel can 
lie a mile or two from shore. It is a rocky 
coast, and ledges of low jagged rocks shoot 
far out into the sea. The landing is by 
small boats, and the Arab boatmen are 
noisy, rough and unceas'ng in their efforts 
to secure passengers for their particular 
boat. But our conductor told us to be 
patient and await the arrival of an agent of 
his from the shore, from whom we would 
obtain landing tickets. As we have an 
hour or more to wait, we wend our way to 
the wheel house of the steamer and enjoy 
the view before us. It is really beautiful 
and entrancing. On either side of the cityi 
stretches a coast covered with orange 
groves, olive trees and cactus hedges. 

Joppa is seen upon a low rounding hill 
dipping into the Mediterranean, the build- 
ings rising in the form of an amphitheatre, 
and at the highest point stands a large 
round castle. In the background stretches 
the broad plain of Sharon as far as the hills 
of Samaria and Judea. The whole scene is 
most attractive, and some of our party me 
their cameras, which I notice are those of 
the Eastman company of # Rochester, N. Y 
How beautiful the town does look, sur- 
rounded as it is by large orchards of 
oranges, lemons, and tall waving cypresses. 
A call to land takes us below, and we find 
a change of scene. The boatmen are under 
the direction of a leader, and our party are 
soon passing down the gangway and into 
the boats. It is an amusing scene, as the 
sea is considerably agitated, and the boats 
go up and down as the waves roll up 
against the vessel's side. Some have great 
difficulty to gain a footing and seat in the 
boats, but such an "old sailor" as 
correspondent, made his way easily 
minding the up and down motion 






a your 
ly, not i 
of th,, I 



boat, as it rideB upon the waves. Six oars- 
men force the craft over the water singing 
a sort of lullaby in the Arab dialect. When 
near the shore, we reach a rocky elevation 
that forms a sort of breakwater for the bay 
inside. But one opening has sufficient 
depth for our passage, and it is quite nar- 
row ; but our steersman brings the boat to 
the passage just as a high wave rolls 
through, or rather over it, and we ride 
safely inside. Oft times the boats are cap- 
sized here, and we were fortunate in not 
tasting the briny water in our passage. 
The port of Jaffa is the oldest in the world, 
and the tradition here is that it was in this 
port where Noah built his ark; and the 
historian, Pliny, states that in his time, 
11 the marks of the chain were visible that 
bound Andromeda to the rock, and the 
actual skeleton of the sea monster to 
which she was exposed, was for a long 
time exhibited at Rome." Our Masonic 
friends will also call to mind, that this was 
a port of importance in the time of Solo- 
mon, and that it was from here Hiram, 
king of Tyre, brought the cedars of Lebanon 
for the building of the temple. It was a 
pleasure, when reaching the dock at the 
Custom House, to be permitted to pass the 
customs without exposing to view our lug- 
gage, or even our passport; this nuisance 
had been arranged by our conductor, and 
we were speedily walking through a steep, 
winding lane, which loads up from the 
Custom House to the principal gate of the 
city. 

It presented the usual Arab scene, being 
filled or lined with strings of camels and 
donkeys, loaded with merchandise; also 
groups of Bedouins, traders and Turks 
wiihout number. It was evident, cleanli- 
ness is not a virtue of Jaffa's residents, as 
before reaching our hotel, we found the 
streets narrow, crooked and filthy, and 
poorly paved. The houses are built mostly 
I of stone, and are crowded together so as to 



present anything but a pleasant aspect. 
The beauty of the town seen at a distance 
had, like the glorious sunset at sea, vanished 
in the air. Even our hotel presented not 
the most inviting home for the traveler. 
However, we stay long enough to call to 
mind all the history of the old city and 
view its places of interest connected with 
the scripture history. In the bible, the 
town is named as belonging to the tribe of 
Dan, and from it Jonah sailed when at- 
tempting to " flee from the presence of the 
Lord." It was also at Joppa that Peter is 
said to have raised Dorcas, or Tabitha, 
from the dead, and a house is shown in 
which the miracle is said to have taken 
place It affords the present occupant an 
an occasional piastre, or a few paras, con- 
tributions from tourists, who are willing to 
pay for an inside view of what is, no doubt, 
an old structure of much later date than 
the year of the miracle. The house of 
" Simon the Tanner," shown tourists, 
stands in the midst of numerous tanneries 
on a high point, overlooking the sea. It 
was while praying on the housetop Peter 
had the vision and heard the voice com- 
manding him " to rise, kill and eat." The 
building has been converted into a mosque ; 
the flat roof being retained, having upon it 
a small light-house. If it was really the 
house of Simon, its present modern aspect 
had better been omitted. 

As Jaffa has no especial attractions for 
visitors, we were soon at the railway sta- 
tion to take a train for Jerusalem. There 
is an excellent carriage road also, but as 
both run nearly all the way side by side, 
we took an observation car rather than a 
carriage. The railway is none too good, so 
our ride was not at lightning speed, afford- 
ing a fine view of the country passed over. 
The distance is 54£ miles. The view, upon 
reaching the heights above the city, is very 
liue, and we go through a long line of vine- 
yards, coming into numerous orange groves, 
the perfume of which is very noticeable. 



Long lines of cactus hedges are seen. The 
wood of some of them being six and eight 
inchts in diameter. They grew so high as 
to destroy in many places, a vitw of the 
contents of the lields which they enclosed. 
Occasional mud towns of the Arabs are 
seen, the houses covered wirh minarets, 
(bird houses), and we appear to have en- 
tered another Egyptian clime and land. 
Numerous Muhammadan cemetries are seen 
with their walled tombs for "Sheiks," the 
sandy graves of the Arabs disappearing, as 
the sands of the plains blow over them. 

We pass over the plain of Sharon, view- 
ing the mountains of Ephraim and Samaria 
in the distance. The Plain of Sharon ap- 
pears to be exceedingly fertile, the wooden 
plow and the oxen are used for preparing | 
the soil for cultivation. The plain was 
covered with wheat, barley and millet, 
many fields in process of harvesting. In 
others planting for a second crop was 
going on. Id the fields used for grass, 
appeared thousands of the red flowers 
called the "Rose of Sharon." It looks 
very like the email red poppy of other 
countries The shepherds mind their 
sheep, and we appear to be, as we are, in 
the Bible lands. Passing through exten- 
sive olive groves in the midst of which, 
Lydda is situated, we arrive at Lud, 
twelve miles from Jaffa. This town is said 
to be the place where St. Peter cured the 
sick man, Aeneas. It is now an Arab 
settlement, the church of St. George so 
often alluded to in the writings of the 
Crusaders, located here, now being turned 
into a mosque. It is a fine specimen of 
crusading architecture, the walls and arches 
overgrown with creepers, giving it a very 
picturesque appearance. 

A ride of two miles brings us to Ramleh, 
passing through magnificent olive groves 
on both sides of the railway. Ramleh is 
the traditional Arimathea of scripture, but 
it is thought by many that it was given 



this name by guides who conduct parties 
.through Palestine, and is not really the 
ancient city. There is a high tower here 
called the White Tower of Ramleh. It is 
built in the form of a square, and stands 
alone, though it is evident that at some 
time it was the tower of a mosque. We 
ascend a winding staircase to the top, where 
a grand view is obtained over the country. 
It is a panorama of about one hundred 
miles from Gaza, the scene of Samson's 
overthrow of the Philistines and removal 
of the gates of Gaza to Mount Oarmel ; 
and from the mountains of Judea and Ben- 
jamin to the Mediterranean. The town 
rises 125 feet. There are three convents, 
one belonging to the Armenians, one to the 
Greeks and one to the Latin Christians. 
Two handsome Turkish mosques are here, 
one having therein a beautiful, white 
marble tomb covered with Arabic inscript- 
ions in gilt. The tomb has the remains of 
"Ayoub Bey," a Mameluke, who fled from 
Egypt, when the French took possession of 
that country in 1798. Our train again 
moves on, and we view a town pointed 
out to us as "Tell Jezar," the site of an- 
cient Gezer. This is the city that was capt- 
ured during Solomon's reign by one of the 
Pharaoahs of Egypt, who presented it to 
his daughter as a portion of her dowry, 
when she became the wife of Solomon. 
The town presents a very pretty view as we 
circle around it, over the railway, being in 
an elevated position on a hill side. Just 
beyond, looking south, lies the Valley of 
Aijalon, where Joshua commanded the 
sun and moon to stand still. Our way now 
is through a deep outting, until a town 
called Akir, the site of the great Philis- 
tine city of "Ekron" appears about 
two miles away. We see only an 
Arab mud village, but the noted travelers 
in Palestine all agree that it is the site of 
"Ekron," which was allotted to Judah and 
occupiod by the tribe of Dan. It ww \o this 



city the Ark of the Covenant was sent 
from Gath, and our railway is passing 
along the route by which the Ark was 
taken from Ekron to Jerusalem, and con- 
tinues to follow the route of the Ark until 
it reaches the Holy City. 

We are now about half way to Jerusa- 
lem, and enter the Wady Suvar, called in 
the Bible, the Valley of Sorek, and find 
ourselves in Samson's country, and no 
doubt somewhere in this valley lived Deli- 
lah, she who bereft Samson *of his great 
strength. We see the old pathway over 
which the Ark was carried, and upon it, 
travelers dressed in the Judean costume, 
who now oocupy the places in the valley 
where it is possible to cultivate the olive, 
fig and grape. We halt at a station named 
Deir Aban, said to be the location of the 
Biblical Ebenezer. Here we have a view 
of Zorah, the birth-place of Samson, situ- 
ate on an elevated hill ; also Artuf, the 
Biblical Mahaneh-Dan, the great camp of 
the Danites. Close to Zorah is seen a rock- 
cut altar, which is claimed to be the very 
altar at which "Manoah offered his meat 
offering to the Lord." We are in some of 
the very narrow gorges of the Judean 
mountains an> traverse steep and rugged 
passes until w > enter the valley Wady Is- 
main, and iollow the ancient path up 
which the Ark of God was carried. We 
are on sacred ground, as all along our as- 
cent, this path is easily traced, sometimes 
on one side of the railway, and sometimes 
on the other. 

What interesting reminiscences of Bible 
history are recalled as we view this ancient 
path-way. We seem to be going over in 
our mind all the incidents of Koyal Arch 
Masonry, which were once so familiar to 
us. We continue to pass through the 
great mountain gorge and reach Bittir 
station, the town perched on a rocky ter- 
race of the gorge. It is picturesquely eitu- 
ated on a lofty steep and presents the ap- 



pearance of an excellent natural fortifica- 
tion. The place is known as Bether in 
Jewish history. Our train now takes us 
into the valley Wady-el-Werd, which is 
filled with rose gardens, cultivated for the 
manufacture of rose-water, and for this 
reason it bears the title now of the Valley 
of Roses. It is quite a change from the 
rugged mountain gorge from which we 
have just emerged, and the perfume of the 
roses is very noticeable. As we leave the 
valley, we reach the Plain of Rephaim, called 
also the Valley of the Giants in the Book of 
Samuel, and soon view the Monastery of 
the Holy Cross, situated in a valley to &e 
west of Jerusalem. 

It derives its name from a tradition that 
the tree from which the Cross of Christ was 
made, grew upon the spot where the mon- 
astery is located. Like other wonders, for 
the amusement of visitors, we are told that 
"the tree was planted by Adam, watered 
by Noah and cared for by the patriarchs," 
and to clinch the truth of the story, are 
shown the hole left in the ground where 
the roots of the tree were taken out. All 
this for a few piastres. But the monastery 
is really a fine building. It has massive 
walls, and is now a collegiate home, having 
a large and fine library, and is under the 
direction of the Greek- Russian church. 
But the walls, toweis and suburbs of Jeru- 
salem are in view, and before we have time 
hardly to glance at them in the evening's 
closing hours, we are at the station, and 
very soon at Howard's hotel, situated near 
a large property owned by the Russians 
and covered with buildings called "hos- 
pices" in which both male and female pil- 
grims from Russia are housed during their 
pilgrimage to the Holy City. Every Greek 
Christian feels it necessary to visit the Holy 
Sepulchre in Jerusalem, and prostrate 
himself upon the stone that covers it, in 
order to make sure of an entrance into the 
haven of rest, after death. 



Our hotel and the colony are just j 
outside the walla of the city, and ! 
near the city's entrance, through the Jaffa | 
gate. We had a full day's tour of work in 
coming from Jaffa to Jerusalem and were \ 
glad to obtain a night's rest, preparatory for ! 
the interesting scenes that were in anticipa- 
tion during Easter week in Jerusalem. 
The day was ushered in by a bright glow 
of morning light, and we arose to peruse 
the following lines of an Italian poet, as 
we took our first survey of the Holy City , 
from a most favorable point. 

"Now from the golden east the zephyrs born, 
Proclaim with balmy gales the approach of 

mora, 
And fair Aurora decks her radiant head, 
With roses cropped from Edens's flowery bed. 
When now the sun ascends the ethereal way, 
And strikes the field with warmer ray, 
Behold, Jerusalem salutes our eyes ; 
At first, transported with the pleasing sight, 
The Christian bosom glows with lull delight, 
In deep contrition soon this joy's suppressed, 
And holy sorrow saddens every breast. 
Scarce dare the eye the city wall survey, 
Where, clothed in flesh the dear Redeemer lay, 
Whose sacred earth did once the Lord enclose, 
And where triumphant irom the grave He rose: 
To humble thoughts the lofty heart now bends, 
And down the cheek the flowing tear descends." 

Before us is the walled city, and it looks 
what it really is, a city that is venerable. 
The walls that enclose it, reaching heav- 
enward as high as the great mass of gray 
buildings within them, prevent other than 
a surface view of their massive roofs, pina- 
cles and towers. The city's walls encircle 
it completely, and there is no entrance or 
departure only through use of the eix gates 
to the city. The walls are irregular in 
form ; and were ereoted in 1542 by the 
reigning Sultan of that time, on the site of 
the walls of the middle ages ; from the ruins 
of which they were constructed. The cir- 
cuit of the walls is nearly two and oce-half 
miles. The six gates all occupy ancient 
sites. The Jaffa gate is the principal en- 
trance, and it ia difficult to obtain an easy 
passage so great is the traffic through it. 



Jerusalem is upon a ridge between two 
deep valleys ; flinom on one side, and the 
Kedron or Jehosophat on the other All 
around the site of the Holy city are other 
hills which overtop Zion and Moriah sever- 
al hundred feet. In the east the Mount of 
Olives whioh appears to be above them all. 
It is well to remember that the walls of the 
present city, which are perhaps enclosing 
all the territory of the ancient city, are 
only the outer walls. The ancient city had 
many inner walls and gates, which have 
entirely disappeared, and are now traced 
in underground passages under some of the 
buildings and streets of the city. We con- 
tinued our view from morn until nearly 
mid-day, and quote from Stanley's Sinai 
and Palestine giving to our mind a truth- 
ful description of the impressions fixed in 
our memory of the city. 

"In one respect no one need quarrel with 
his first aspect of Jerusalem. So far as 
localities have any concern with religion, it 
is well to feel that Christianity , even in its 
first origin, was nurtured in no romantic 
scenery ; that the discourses in the walks to 
and from Bethany, and in earlier times the 
prophecies of David and Isaiah, were not as 
in Greece, the offsprings of oracular cliffs 
and grottoes, but the simple outpourings of 
souls which thought of nothing but God 
and man. It is not, however, inconsistent 
to add that, though not romontic, though 
at first sight, bare and prosaic in the ex- 
treme, there does at lost grow up about 
Jerusalem a beauty as poetical as that 
which hangs over Athens and Rome. The 
old city itself (and I felt a constant satis- 
faction in the thought) lies buried twenty, 
thirty, forty feet below those wretched 
shops and receptacles for Anglo-Oriental 
conveniencies. But still, as you lojk at it 
irom any commanding point, within or 
without the walls, you are struck by the 
gray ruinous masses of which it is m*de up. 
It is the ruin, in fact of the old Jerusalem 
on which you look ; the stones, the columr s, 
the very soil on which you tread is the ac- 
cumulation of nearly 3000 years, and as it 
is with the city, so it is with the country 
around it. There is, as I have said, no 
beauty of form or outline, but there is 
nothing to dfoturb Ibe thought of the hoary 






age of thoBe ancient hills; and tb 
of the past, even to the hardest mind, will 
in spite of themselves, Invest them with a 
glory of their own. There is one approach 
to Jerusalem which is really grand, namely, 
from Jericho and Bethany. It is the ap- 
proach by which the army of Pompey ad- 
vanced — the first European army that ever 
confronted it —and it is the approach of the 
triumphal entry of the Gospels. The 
beauty consists in this, that you burst at 
once on the two great ravines, Kedron and 
Hinom, which cut the city off from the 
surrounding table land, and that then, and 
then only, you have a complete view of the 
Moeque of Omar. The other buildings of 
Jerusalem which emerge from the mass 
of gray ruin and white stones, are few, and 
for the most part unattractive. The white 
mass of the Armenian Convent on the 
south and the dome of the Mosque of David 
— the Castle and Herod's tower on the 
south-west corner — the two domes black 
and white, which surmount the Holy Sep- 
ulchre and the Basilica of Constantino — the 
long yellow mass of the Latin convent, and 
the gray tower of the Mosque of the Der- 
vishes on the traditional site of the palace 
of Herod Antipas —these are the only ob- 
jects which break from various points the 
sloping or level lines of the city of the Cru- 
saders and Saracens. But none of these is 
enough to elevate the character. What, 
however, these fail to effect, is in one in- 
stance effected by the Mosque of Omar. 
From whatever point that graceful dome 
with its beautiful precinct, emerges to view, 
it at once dignifies the whole city. And 
when from Olivet, you see the platform on 
which it stands, it is a scene hardly to be 
surpassed — a dome graceful as that of St. 
Peter's, yet on a smaller scale, rising from 
an elaborately finished edifice. This edi- 
fice, raised on a square marble platform, 
rising on the highest side of a green slope, 
which descends from it north, south and 
east to the walls surrounding the whole en- 
closure—platform and enclosure diversified 
by lesser domes and fountains, by cypresses 
and olives, and plains and palms — the 
whole as secluded and quiet as the interior 
of some cathedral garden, only enlivened 
by the white figures of veiled women steal- 
ing like ghosts up and down the green 
slope, or by the turbaned heads bowed low 
in tbe various niches for prayer — this is the 
Mosque of Omar, the second most sacred 
spot in the Mohammedan world — that is, 
next after Mecca." 



Holy Week and Easter Day. 

The Celebrations in Jerusalem — Historic 
Ground — Many Myths and Superstitions 
—The Environs of the City — Excursions 
to Bethlehem and Bethany — The Different 
Sects and Their Beliefs — Back on Euro- 
pean Soil. 



BY A, li. UNDERHII/L. 



(No. 11.) 



Jerusalem during the week preceding 
Easter Sunday is crowded with visitors. 
They come from every clime, but more 
especially from those countries where the 
Mahommedan, Greek, Armenian, Syrian, 
Copt, Latin Catholic and Protestant forms 
of religion are prominent. The Greeks and 
Armenian pilgrims are by far the most 
numerous, and come, led by their priests 
and patriarchs who appear in procession 
followed by the adherents of their respect- 
ive faiths. Syrian and Copt are distin- 
guishable by their manner of dress, while 
the Catholics visit the holy places using the 
usual ceremonies of the Latins. The Ma- 
hommedans are making their pilgrimage to 
the sacred rock in the Mosque of Omar, 
from which they say Mahomet took his 
flight to heaven. Every morning, during 
our first five days in the city, we witnessed 
the long lines of these pilgrims coming on 
camels, donkeys, horses and on foot, to the 
various localities assigned them by the 
churches here. There were many thousands 
of them, and their appearance for the most 



part, was that of very poor people. In 
Kussia, the Greek followers of the Saviour, 
hoards his or her savings purposely for 
this visit, and when accomplished return 
home in full belief that their future in the 
hereafter is to be that promised by the 
church. 

The conductor of our party provided a 
good guide for our travel inside the walls, 
and we made our entrance through the 
Jaffa gate. First, we passed through the 
principal streets viewing the people, the 
bazaars, Jewish quarters, and the great 
panorama which was presented to our eyes 
as we moved along. Alas, our view from 
the outer walls was entirely the opposite in 
the inner walls. In all our travel we had 
not found so dirty and filthy streets ; they 
are narrow, and devoid of light, buildings 
high, so that pure air, and real comfort is 
not found in the lanes which are called 
streets of the holy city. The Jerusalem 
that we sing about : 

"Jerusalem my happy home, 




is most certainly not the Jerusalem of the 
Turks, Mahommedans and Jews through 
which we are passing. Our Jerusalem is 
far removed from what was once the Holy 
city of David. It is where 

"Thy gardens and thy goodly walks 

Continually are green, 
Where grows sueh sweet and pleasant flowers 

As nowhere else are seen, 
Right through thy streets, with pleasing j 
sound 
The living waters flow, 
And on the banks, on either side 
The trees of life do grow." 

THE POPULATION 

of the city is said to be about 60,000 of 
whom the Jews number about 42,000, Ma- 
hommedan's 9,000, the rest, the so-called 
Christians of the Greek, Copt, Armenian, 
Syrian, Latin Catholics and Protestants of 
the English, German and American mis- 
sions. Each of these classes have schools 
and missions, which give instruction in 
common education and their respective re- 
ligious tenets. The city has several con- 
vents, as the Greeks,Syrians and Armenians 
are really more Catholic than Protestant in 
their creeds and worship. 
We were oonducted to the 

MOSQUE OF OMAR, 

said to be situated on the foundation walls 
of Solomon's Temple. This has been con- 
sidered since David's time, the most sacred 
ground in Jerusalem. Here, the founda- 
tion walls of Solomon's Temple were laid 
over one thousand years before the birth of 
Christ ; here we stand on the threshing 
floor for which David gave the 600 shekels 
of gold ; here is the Holy of Holies, 
Mount Moriah. We enter the Haram and 
find ourselves on a large platform, planted 
with palm and cypress trees and surround- 
ed by a high wall. In the centre is the 
Mosque, the cupola of the rock, elevated 
on another platform in its centre with steps 
on all sides to enter ; around this second 
platform are several chapels surmounted by 
cupolas. Our shoes are covered so as not 
to profane the holy ground It is entered 



through four spacious doors, which project 
from the building. The sides are all beauti- 
fully paneled, square and octagonal alter- 
nating ; the materials are marble, both, 
white and blue. Around the first story are 
seven elegant windows on each side of the 
octagon. The interior is most magnificent 
The gorgeous coloring, the painted wood 
work, the fine marble, the costly mosaics, 
the great doma, flourished all over with 
arabesques and inscriptions, and gilded to 
the very top, throwing its reflection upon 
the rock where it is supposed was the Holy 
of Holies of Herod's Temple, is a most en- 
chanting scene. The great rock is nearly 
fifty feet in diameter, and surrounded by a 
beautiful iron railing ; over the whole is 
suspended a canopy of colored silks. The 
windows above are beautifully stained. 
The diameter of the interior measures 148 
feet, and a coridor 13 feet wide runs around 
it, having on its inner side eight piers and 
sixteen marble Corinthian columns, connect- 
ed above by a horizontal architrave under 
pointed arches ; within these, is another 
corridor 30 feet wide ; having on its inner 
side a circle of twelve larger Corinthian 
columns and four piers which support the 
dome. Beneath the great rock is a cave ; 
a circular opening communicates with the 
cave. We enter it down a flight of steps. 
The Moslems say this was the praying 
place of Abraham, David, Solomon and 
Jesus. Here also, Oman and his four sons 
are supposed to have hidden themselves 
from the destroying Angel. Three altars 
are shown, two of marble, dedicated to 
Solomon and David ; one of stone to Elias. 
Several sacred spots and relics are also 
shown. On the outer arcade of the dome 
is a cuflc inscription giving the date of the 
erection of the Mosque as 688. Surround- 
ing the Mosque in the Haram enclosure, 
are several small domes, one of which is 
very attractive, called 

DOME OP THE ASCENSION 

and is sacred to Mahomet's flight. It was 



erected in 1,200. Within the same enclos- 
ure is also the Mosque of El-Aska. It 
was a church in the Christian days of the 
city, and was oalled the Church of the Puri- 
fication, meaning the Church of the Virgin 
Mary. It is ornamented with marble 
floors, arabesque paintings and gildings of 
great beauty. We are shown the tombs 
of the sons of Aaron, and the foot prints of 
Christ ; also the Pillars of Proof, two nar- 
row columns standing side by side with but 
a space separating them, through which 
we are told a virtuous man may pass with 
ease, but for a liar or a wicked man, it be- 
comes an impossibility. This is the same 
class of scenes we saw in the Mosque at old 
Cairo, Egypt. There is a handsome fount- 
ain called the orange fountain near the 
Mosque named from a grove of orange 
trees growing near it. In another place is 
shown the 

CRADLE OF JESUS 

a most beautiful marble cradle, said to have 
been found at Bethlehem and which was 
presented to Mary by the wise men. On 
the eastern wall of the Haram is the Golden 
Gate through which Christ is said to have 
made his triumphal entry into Jerusalem. 
We are also conducted through a long 
passage under the flaram into a series of 
vaults called Solomon's stables. There is 
evidence that they were once used for sta- 
bling purposes, as the holes through which 
the halters were passed are still visible in 
the piers. The probability is they were 
used by the Knights Templar in the time 
of the crusades. As we pass from the Haram 
we view one of the most beautiful of the 
cupolas therein, called Dome of the Chain, 
sometimes Dome of Judgment, where ac- 
cording to Moslem tradition, King David 
held his tribunals, and where the balance 
of justice will be suspended on the Judg- 
ment Day. 

The reader will see that in all this de- 
scription, there is little that appears to have 



any interest for the Christian believer, save 
that the Haram upon which these Mosques 
are placed, in all probability is the ground 
upon which the temples of Solomon and 
Herod stood. The verdict of the best ex- 
plorers is, that the foundations of the Holy 
Temples were many hundred feet below the 
present Haram. It is sacred ground be- 
cause here Abraham proved his faith in 
God by the intended sacrifice of his son ; 
David built an altar to the Lord, and Solo- 
mon erected his world famed and magnifi- 
cent temple on the spot where God had ap- 
peared to David his father. 

Our next excursion was to explore the 
noted 

CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, 

in doing so, passing through what is called 
Via Dolorosa. Our conductor tells us this is 
the road along which Christ walked to his 
crucifixion. We are pointed out the fol- 
lowing : the palace of Pilate; two old arches 
where once was a staircase leading to the 
Judgment Hall ; the Church of the Flagel- 
lation, so called, becausa on its foundation 
Christ was scourged, the Ecce Homo Arch 
on the right of which ha?, been built the 
Convent of the Sisters of Zion ; we entered 
it to find a model of cleanliness and order, 
and are shown behind the altar in its 
chapel, a Roman arch in excellent preser- 
vation discovered when the foundations of 
the building were excavated. We pass on 
our way the spot where the Saviour fainted 
under the cross ; the house of Dives ; the 
place of Christ's second fall under the 
cross ; and then, the house of St. Veronica ; 
coming very soon to the Church of the 
Holy Sepulchre. The long series of lanes 
through which we have passed are interest- 
ing because pilgrims revere all these 
places, notwithstanding the ground the 
Saviour trod, lies many feet below the 

(present surface — and an indentation made 
in the stone wall by the shoulder of the 
Saviour when falling, is alternately " 



by the pilgrims and spit upon by the Jews 
whenever they pass that way. This 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre dates from 
1810, and it is pretended not only covers 
the site of Calvary and the tombs of Joseph 
and Nicodemus, but also the place where 
the Saviour appeared to Mary, his mother, 
after the resurrection ; where Constantino 
found the true cross ; where the angel ap- 
peared ; where the Saviour appeared to 
Mary Magdalene, and numerous other im- 
portant places. 

We reach the entrance to the church by 
a narrow street, leading into a square 
court, in which we find a throng of buyers 
and sellers of relics, to be carried by pil- 
grims to all parts of the world. The 
church is surmounted by two domes, the 
J larger surmounting the chapel of the Holy 
Sepulchre ; the smaller, the Greek church 
on the site of the Basilica erected by Con- 
stantino in the fourth century. Close be- 
side the Dome stands the Minaret of Omar, 
which that Caliph erected that he jnight 
pray as near as possible to the churchy 
without interfering with the rights of the 
Christians. We enter the church and the 
first object that attracts attention, is a 
Turkish divan, upon which recline Mos- 
lem officers and soldiers — they are station- 
ed there to prevent priests and votaries of 
the different so called christian sects from 
open strife and bloodshed ; a precaution 
which experience has proved necessary — a 
proof of which, we personally witnessed on 
the day before Easter. The first shrine 
that we observe, is a large flat stone, over 
which several lamps are suspended, and 
numerous pilgrims are upon their knees 
kissing it. It is called the 

STONE OF UNCTION, 

where the Saviour's body was anointed 
by the holy women before burial. 
Near by is a circular stone, said to mark 
the spot where Mary stood during the 
anointment. Under the dome stands the 



Holy Sepulchre, surrounded by sixteen 
large columns, which support the gallery 
above. We enter it, a small building hav- 
ing two chambers incased with fine marble 
— shoes are removed before entering — the 
outer chamber has a block of polished stone 
about eighteen inches square, where the 
angel sat who told the women the glad tid- 
ings "He is not here; He is risen." 
Through another passage, we enter the 
tomb. Is this really the tomb hewn out of 
the rock in which Joseph of Arimathea 
laid the body of Christ after the crucifixion? 
Whether it be, or be not, tho genuine tomb, 
one cannot enter it without a feeling of 
reverence, because for nearly two thousand 
years pilgrims of every degree in life, here 
have knelt and prayed, in the full belief 
that it is the very tomb "where the Saviour 
triumphed over the grave and disarmed 
death of its terrors." It is the place point- 
ed out to the mother of Constantino by the 
persecuted Christians, and here she erected 
the church. 

The tomb is about six feet square ; one 
half of it is occupied by the sarcophagus, 
which rises two feet from the floor, is of 
white marble tinged with blue — that is,this 
slab covers the elevation left in the hewing 
of the rock, which was the custom in those 
days. The marble is cracked through in the 
centre. On this stone the body of Christ was 
laid ; and here Mary saw the two angels. 
The slab is used as an altar, and is garnish- 
ed with a profusion of ornaments and a bas- 
relief of the resurrection. Over it forty- 
three lamps of gold and silver, presented 
by sovereigns of Europe are continually 
burning. A space three feet wide is left 
for visitors in front of the tomb. A Greek 
monk is seen reading prayers at the head 
of the tomb ; also pilgrims, entering up- 
on their bended knees who bathe the 
cold marble with their tears, and other 
demonstrations of affection. This ohuroh 
covers considerable space, and is occupied 
by different sects of Christians, Latinsj 



Greeks, Armenians, Copts and Syrians' 
all of whom have their respective chapels, 
the Greeks, the richest and the Copts, the 
poorest. Service was being said in all 
these, and was to our view very similar — 
very like the mass and vesper service of 
the Koman Catholic church in America. 

These chapels are located upon spots of 
interest connected with 

THE CRUCIFIXION AND RESURRECTION OF 
CHRIST. 

The Latins have a ohapel of apparition, 
where Christ appeared to his mother after 
his resurrection ; in the sacristy adjoin- 
ing, we were shown the sword and spurs Of 
Godfrey, the first Latin King of Jerusalem. 

The Greeks, the "Chapel of the Prison," 
where Christ was confined before the oruci- 
fixion. Also, the "Chapel of the Vest- 

Eents," built over the spot where the 
ldiers divided the raiment of Christ, 
lso, the "Chapel of Longinus," the 
ldier who pierced the Saviour's side. 
The Armenians, the "Chapel of St.Helena," 
in which is an altar dedicated to the peni- 
tent thief. Also, the "Chapel of the In- 
vention of the Cross," where the three 
crosses were discovered. Also, the "Chap- 
el of the Mocking," where Christ was 
crowned with thorns. We mount a flight 
of steps to pass into two chapels of the 
"Crucifixion" and the "Elevation of the 
Cross." The first is said to be over the 
place where Christ was nailed to the cross j 
the second where the cross stood. A crevice 
is shown here through which the hand is 
passed in order to feel a fissure in the rock, 
which was caused by the earthquake at the 
time of the Saviour's crucifixion. The 
Chapel of the Syrians is in a rock hewn 
sepulchre which we reach by the aid of 
dies. It has the appearance of old tombs 
d they maintain here were the tombs of 
oseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus. The 
pts, have the smallest chapel, which they 



call "an oratory." It is the poorest in 
every way in the Church of the Holy Sep- 
ulchre. There are to be seen also, mdhy 
other altars, at which, during Easter week, 
are found the faithful pilgrims in their acts 
of worship. 

The crowd of people there Saturday 
afternoon before Easter was immense 
There were many Turkish soldiers pres- 
ent, who found it necessary oft-times to 
use their authority to prevent rows and 
quarrels among the Greek and Armenian 
pilgrims, and especially during the blas- 
phemous ceremony, which is held by the 
Greeks on Easter even every year, known 
as the 

HOLY FIRE. 

There was hardly standing room in the 
great church. The Greeks were in full 
force, each one having an unlighted torch 
Oa one side of the Holy Sepulchre are two 
openings about four inches in diameter. 
The Greeks being in possession of the sepul- 
chre declare that a miracle is worked on this 
occasion. The great chimes of bells above 
the church, commence ringing about three 
o'clock ; by this time it is impossible to 
gain an entrance to the church. Outside 
are thousands ot people perched on the 
housetops of every building that has a view 
of the court facing the entrance to the 
church. The large court is also a solid 
mass of humanity. For an hour or more, 
the chimes make stated music. The people 
inside, especially the Greek pilgrims, be- 
come impatient under the confinement and 
impure air they are compelled to inhale- 
Quarrels ensue between the Armenians and 
Greeks — the Armenians do not endorse the 
so-called coming miracle — and we see the 
Turkish soldiers hustling out of the church 
many excited pilgrims. The bells continue 
their noisy clang, and the excitement be- 
comes so great that one feels it is somewhat 
dangerous to remain in the church. Sudden- 
ly, two streams of living fire are seen rush- 
ing through the two openings in the Holy 



Sepulchre. In an instant, the torch bear- 
ers are igniting their torches from it, and 
shouting their praises to God for his re- 
membrance in sending the Holy Fire from 
heaven, which the pilgrims are led to be- 
lieve is a sign to them, that the Saviour 
has heard and answered their petitions for 
mercy and -forgiveness, ensuring them a 
safe passage to the heaven above. 

What a scene is now presented ! The 
whole inside ot the church appears as in a 
blaze of light, the thousands of torches are 
brilliant, and amid the brilliancy comes a 
clash of people, which even the Turkish 
soldiers have difficulty to quell. The Ar- 
menians are determined that not a sacrile- 
gious torch shall pass over, or be seen upon 
any of the places occupied by them in the 
church. But torches do appear there and 
a rough-and-tumble follows, in the midst of 
which are seen Greek and Armenian priests 
clothed in their robes and having long 
beards that reach far down their garments. 
The pride of these priests is their hand- 
some beards which give them the vener- 
able look of the patriarchs of old. The 
crowd of lighted torches are passing in pro- 
cession from the church to the court, and 
into the streets of the city, chanting their 
song of triumph as they march — but, be- 
hold I a row in the church over the "Holy 
Fire," has resulted in one of the Armenian 
priests having his beard cut off close to his 
chin, and great is the lamentation, because 
of the sacrilege. 

But the "miracle" has been fully worked 
through the Holy Sepulchre, —and the 
knowing ones say, it was done through the 
use of magnesia wire which extended from 
the outer portion of the church into the Sep- 
ulchre producing the brilliant blaze of light j 
and fire that rushed from the openings on j 
one side of the sacred place. We are told I 
that originally all the churches took part ' 
in this ceremony ; but for many years the j 
Latin Catholics have declared it an im- 



posture. The Armenians also repuidate it; 
the better class of Greek priests,say that it is 
allowed simply as a memorial. Their fol- 
lowers on the contrary, believe a miracle 
has been wrought, and some way should be 
found to do away with the disgraceful cere- 
mony. 

We had no desire to visit the church on 
Easter day, preferring to attend the Eng- 
lish church services in Christ ohurch, situ- 
ate near the Tower of David, within the 
walls of the city. Easter morn was brill- 
iant, as the rays of the sun appeared over 
the highest point of the Mount of Olives, 
and gradually threw its halo of light upon 
the mount, the Garden of Gethsemane, the 
Valley of Jehosophat and the Holy City. 
To be privileged on Easter morn to view 
these sacred places, connected as they are 
with the life of our Saviour in Jerusalem, 
filled our heart with thankfulness, as passed 
through our memory the various scenes in 
the Saviour's life from Nazareth to the as- 
cension, from the very mount we were per- 
mitted to behold. 

EASTER DAT IN JERUSALEM 

is a gala day. All the so-called Christians 
of the Greek, Armenian, Syrian and Copt 
societies are out in full force, marching 
through the streets in processions, headed 
by their priests and patriarchs, who are 
clothed in their robes and insignia of au- 
thority. It is one continuous scene of pro- 
cessions going to and fro from their respect- 
ive stopping places to the chapels or altars 
where the service is said. They come from 
all quarters of Europe and Asia and present 
a most marvelous drama for the tourist. 
In the midst of all these services, the peo- 
ple of the Anglican church, who number 
a few hundred only, have assembled in 
their churches to celebrate the feast of 
Easter as is done in enlightened Christian 
lands. The service in Christ church was 
mo3t impressive. The sermon, a review of 
tha scenes and incidents in the Saviour's 



life, closing with the story of the resurrec- 
tion and ascension, and urging any present, 
who had not been brought into Christian 
light, to embrace the opportunity then ; 
particularly as they were amid the very 
sacred grounds where Jesus' blood had been 
shed for the remission of their transgressions. 
The music was good, the singing mostly 
by young boys who are being educated in 
the schools of the church missionary soci- 
ety, and are largely from native Jewish 
families who have embraced the Christian 
faith. Preceding the communion the fol- 
lowing lines were most beautifully rend- 
ered : " The Lord is my strength and 
song " — 

The foe behind, the deep before, 

Our hosts have dared and passed the sea : 
And Pharaoh's warriors strew the shore, 
And Israel's ransomed tribes are free. 
Lift up, lift up your voices now f 

The whole wide world rejoices now 1 
The Lord hath triumphed gloriously I 
The Lord shall reign victoriously ! 
Happy morrow, 
Turning sorrow 

Into peace and mirth ! 
Bondage ending, 
Love descending 
O'er the earth t 
Seals assuring, 
Guards securing, 

Watch his earthly prison. 
Seals are shattered, 
Guards are scattered- 
Christ hath risen I 
No longer must the mourners weep, 
Nor call departed Christians dead ; 
For death is hallowed into sleep, 
And every grave becomes a bed. 
Now once more 
Eden's door 
Opened stands to mortal eyes ; 
For Christ hath risen, and man shall rise ! 
Now at last, 
Old things past, 
Hope and joy and peace begin, 
For Christ hath won, and man shall win I 
It is not exile, rest on high : 

It is not sadness, peace from strife : 
To fall asleep is not to die. 
To dwell with Christ is better life. 



Where our banner leads us, 

We may safely go : 
Where our chief precedes us, 

We may face the foe. 
His right hand is o'er us, 

He our Guide will be : 
Christ hath gone before us, 

Christians, follow ye ! 

Amen. 

We deemed the afternoon a fitting one to 
visit the surroundings of the city, without 
the walls. Mounting a donkey, we first 
made a circuit of them, viewing the various 
gates of entrance, and the places of intereit 
near the walls. After traveling through 
the Valley of Hinnom, Kedron and Jehoso- 
phat, viewing the Pillar of Absalom, the 
Tombs of Zacharias and St. James, the 
! Tomb of the Virgin, the Pool of Siloam, 
and the Potters' Field, we came to the Gar- 
den of Gethsemane, situate near the foot of 
the Mount of Olives. The garden is en- 
closed by a high wall, In its midst stand 
seven olive trees of great age, their decayed 
trunks being supported by stones and earth. 
The monks in charge of the garden, tell us 
they are the veritable remnants of the olive 
grove that existed in the time of Christ. 
They are probably off shoots of the original 
trees. Several shrines and holy stations are 
situated within the garden, including the 
11 Grotto of Agony," and one where Judas 
kissed his Master. We continue our ride 
to the top of the Mount of Olives, to find 
an Arab village thereon. Here is a church 
that was erected to mark out the place of 
the ascension, built by Helena, the mother 
of Oonstantine. It certainly cannot be the 
point where the ascension took place, 
as St. Luke says: "He led them out as 
far as Bethany," which is two miles from 
this churoh. However, we went in the 
building and were shown the print of the 
Saviour's foot in the rock from whence he 
made the asoension. All for one piastre — 
five cents. 

Close by this church is a lofty Russian 
tower, built for the bells of a Russian chapel 



connected with a colony here. From it we 
obtained a most magnificent and extensive 
view of — 

JERUSALEM AND THE SURROUNDING 
COUNTRY. 

We were fortunate in arriving towards 
sunset. The valleys were in shade, and 
the hills thrown into bold relief. Looking 
down the side of Olivet into the Kedron 
valley through the olive trees, we look upon 
the top of Absalom's Pillar and the flat 
grave-stones of the Jewish cemetery in the 
Valley of Jehosophat. Jerusalem, in every 
point and part, is brilliant before us. Then 
we turn our eyes in the opposite direction, 
toward the wilderness of Judea stretched 
out before us, commencing almost at our 
very feet, and shelving down in a succession 
of naked hills and gray glens to the Jordan 
Valley and the Dead Sea ; a large portion 
of both clearly seen. In the distance are 
the mountains of Moab and Gilead. De- 
scending, we wend our way back to Jeru- 
salem, down the pathway over the moun- 
tain slope, remembering that here our 
Saviour was wont to spend his evening 
hours in rest and prayer. 

As we pass the very ancient looking 
building, Tomb and Chapel of the Virgin, 
which is situate opposite St. Stephen's Gate, 
in the bottom of the valley, we enter it. It 
is gray and worn by time and placed amid 
patriarchial looking olive trees. "We de- 
scend sixty steps to a gloomy chapel exca- 
vated in the rock. We are shown two 
tombs said to be those of the parents of the 
Virgin, Joachim and Anna; also that of 
Joseph, the husband of Mary. The tomb 
of Mary is in a chapel containing an altar, 
but it is empty. This chapel is used in 
common by Greeks, Armenians and Latins, 
and is said to date from the year 1200. It 
I is in this tomb, where, according to the 
Church of Kome, the Assumption took 
I place. Adjoining this chapel is a grotto or 
| a dark cave, Hewn in th e rock ; a slab 



therein having this inscription in Latin : 
M Here his sweat became as it were drops of 
blood running into the earth." We found 
the — 

JEWS WAILING PLACE 

on Friday afternoon after passing over the 
most filthy streets and lanes of the city to 
reach it. They say the wall of the city 
before which they stand, facing it, is a por- 
tion of the wall, which encircled the old 
city. What a spectacle is here presented. 
Jews of all ages, both sexes, and from every 
quarter of the earth, from Eussia, Poland, 
Eoumania, Germany, Spain, Africa and 
America, mixed with the thousands of 
Jews of Palestine, congregate here every 
Friday afternoon to cry and lament over 
the destruction of their temple. All ages 
are represented, clad in their characteristic 
garments. The stones are worn smooth 
with their kisses, as they moan and wail. 
Some of the women act is if really crazy, 
in their loud cries and gesticulations. The 
The lamentations are in the words of the 
79th Psalm : "O God, the heathen are 
come into thine inheritance. Thy holy 
temple have they defiled. They have 
made Jerusalem a heap of stones. We are 
become an open shame to our enemies, a 
very scorn and derision unto them that 
are round about U3. Lord, how long wilt 
thou be angry ? Shall thy jealousy burn 
like fire forever ? etc." It is pathetic and 
soul-moving to witness this soene, which 
has been enacted here every Friday for 
many centuries. When we remember that 
J erusalem has over 40,000 Jews and many 
synagogues, and that they are open for 
service almost daily, it must be conceded 
that for faithful adherance to their belief 
they present an example that can well be 
followed by the Christian wherever his 
home. 

We visited the Pool of Bethesda, which 
had no water — the bottom covered with 
grass and flowers. Our guide thinks the 



old pool lies many feet below the one 
shown. The Pool of Siloam is outside the 
present city's walls,on one side of the Valley 
of Jehosophat,beside the King's Garden and 
undoubtedly has been greatly diminished 
from its original size and depth. There is 
a passage connecting it with what is called 
the Virgin '8 Fountain, said to be one-third 
of a mile in length. The pool is surround- 
ed by an area of green grass in which are 
seen beautiful flowers— the lily and rose 
of Sharon, which call to mind the lines of 
the hymn : 

"By cool Siloam's shady rill 
How fair the Illy grows, 

How sweet the breath beneathe the hill 
Of Sharon's dewy rose." 
In our walks around the wall, it oft- 
times looked as if the rock-cut tombs out- 
numbered the dwellings within the walls. 
Many of these are pointed out as having 
been the tomb of some person noted in 
bible history — but it is certain that much of 
this is conjecture. A few, no doubt, are 
rightly named, such as David's tomb,Zach- 
ariah's tomb, and the tomb of the Kings 
and that of the Prophets. None of them, 
however, present an appearance other than 
having been sepulchres hewn in the rocky 
sides of the valleys— all of which are now 
vacant. The valleys of Jehosophat, Hin- 
nom and Kedron are full of them. 

THK TOMB OF ABSALOM 

Is worthy of mention, being ornamented 
with twenty-four semi-columns of the 
Doric order, six of which are on each front 
of a large monument of a single stone. 
The whole is crowned by a concave pyra- 
mid, with a tuft of palm leaves. The mon- 
ument iff said to be over fifty feet high, 
but does not look so, being completely sur- 
rounded by small stones to a considerable 
depth, cast at it by the Jews to show their 
contempt of Absalom's memory. The 

TOMB OF CHRIST 

Is now believed, by those who have 



made the locality a study, not to be in the 
church of the Holy Sepulchre (as has been 
stated for more than fifteen centuries), be- 
cause the site of this church must have 
been within the walls of the city when 
Jesus lived, — and his burial was "without 
the gates" of the city. The best theolog- 
ians and antiquarians who have spent years 
in their investigations, say and declare that 
the tomb is located to the west of a hill 
known as Jeremiah's Grotto. The reasons 
given for their decisions are as follows, 
which we take from an article on the sub- 
ject, published in an English magazine in 
1891. They say: (1) The tomb hag 
never been finished, yet has been occupied. 
(2) It was constructed about the time of 
Christ being Herodian in character. (3) It 
has been occupied for one burial, and one 
only. (4) It was originally intended for 
a Jew, and that a rich and influential one. 
(5) Though built for a Jew, it has been 
an object of sacred reverence to the early 
Christians ; for it has been used as a place 
for Christian worship, and is surrounded by 
Christian tombs. (6) It occupies a posi- 
tion, with regard to the hill beside it, i 
which accords with the Gospel narratives, I 



identified with Calvary. This hill is shown 
by plaster casts taken from accurate meas- 
urements, to bo exactly in the shape of a 
skull ; it is held as an accursed spot, and 
Jews when they pass it spit and throw 
stones in its direction, uttering at the same 
time the imprecation: "Cursed be he that 
destroyed our nation, by aspiring to be the 
King thereof." (7) The frescoed cross | 
with the sacred monograms on the east 
wall, coeval with the first century, connects 
the tomb most certainly with Christ. 

Adjoining the garden in whioh is this 
tomb, is an enclosure in which are pillars, 
capitals and other remains of an early 
Christian church. Passing down a flight 
of steps, we enter a place of Christian 
tombs, only a narrow rock separating them 



from the Tomb of Christ, above noticed* 
In these Christian tombs, have been found 
Greek inscriptions ; upon one the sentence : 
"Buried near his Lord ; " on another: "To 
Nonus and Onesimus, Deacons of the 
Church of the Witness of the Ressurection 
of Christ." It is to be hoped that the 
Christian church will fully identify this 
locality as the place of Christ's burial, thus 
removing from it the connection with the 
blasphemous ceremony of the Holy Fire 
which took place in the church of the Holy 
Sepulchre on Easter even. 

There is also another subject in which 
the Christian would be deeply . interested 
connected with the life of Christ, that of the 

INSTITUTION OF THE LORD'S SUPPER. 

In a building situate on the Hill of Zion 
is shown the upper chamber where the 
last supper was held and where the disci- 
ples were gathered together on the Day of 
Pentecost; also where Christ appeared to 
the apostles after the Resurrection. A 
marble slab, upon which the supper took 
place (according to the tradition of the 
Turks, who are in possession of the place), 
is still preserved. The building is called 
the "Coenaculum." It is well to add that 
although this place bas been pointed out as 
the scene of " The Last Supper," there is 
great doubt as to it being really so. It is 
like many of the legends connected with 
the history of the Holy City. 

We made two excursions during our stay 
in Jerusalem; one to Bethlehem, the other 
to Bethany. We had planned to go to the 
Dead Sea and the Jordan, but a hard rain 
storm on the days set down for going, pre- 
vented. So we contented ourselves by 
climbing to the top of the high tower on 
the pinnacle of the Mount of Olives and 
viewing both the sea, the Jordan and all 
the Judean country in the distance. The 
guide whom we had engaged for the jour- 
ney, assured us, we had not missed any 
really interesting scenes in not going, as the 



Jericho of today is but a miserable, filthy 
village, not a vestige of the ancient Jericho 
remaining. The tree which Zaccheus 
climbed to see the Saviour has also disap- 
peared ; and the dragoman smiled when he 
said he could point out his house. 

The only scene worth seeing at the Jor- 
dan occurs on the Monday and Tuesday of 
Holy Week, two days before we arrived in 
Jerusalem. Then occurs the ceremony of 
the 

BATHING OP THE PILGRIMS 

in Jordan. Every Christian state of Asia 
and Europe has its representatives there. 
At their head, marches the Turkish gov- 
ernor of Jerusalem, with an armed escort. 
Very early before sunrise on Tuesday, they 
bathe in the river, old and young men and 
women, go down together into the water 
apparently unconscious of the surrounding 
crowd. It is a part of their religion, — and 
they go through it in spite of all difficulties. 
The bath over they return to Jerusalem. 

There is a most excellent carriage road to 
Bethlehem, and our party visited it in car- 
riages, starting from the Jaffa gate. We 
pass the roadway through the Valley of 
Hinnom ; view by the side of the road 
several wretched lepers crouching on the 
ground and piteously demanding alms ; 
cross the Hill of Evil Counsel, which gets 
the name from a tradition which calls some 
ruins on its top the country house of Cai- 
phas, which would make it the place of the 
conspiracy of the Sanhedrim to put Jesus 
of Nazareth to death ; pass a well by the 
roadside where we are told the wise men 
saw the star from the East reflected in the 
water, and very soon after reached the con- 
vent of Mar Elias. The Monks here show 
us a depression in the surface of a smooth 
rock, which resembles that made by a hu- 
man form lying on a couch. We are told 
that it was caused by the body of Elias who 
rested there, weary and hungry, when he 
was fed by the angels. We next halt at 



Rachel's tomb, which is one of the few 
shrines which Jew, Moslem and Christian 
agree as to its being authentic. We get 
only an outside view, as the inner cham- 
bers are locked, and the keys kept by the 
Jews who have stated times to assemble 
there for prayer. The scenery onward to 

BETHLEHEM 

is very charming, covering on our right the 
plain from which the shepherds, who were 
watching their flocks by night, saw the star 
that guided the wise men to Bethlehem. 
The city is on a hill that overlooks the 
plain. We pass through narrow,winding, 
uneven streets, to an open space where we 
leave our carriages. We are in Bethle- 
hem, which in rank stands first among the 
holiest places on earth, and next to Jeru- 
salem contains more attractions for the 
Christian traveller, than any other spot on 
the globe. It is a Christian town, having 
a population of 7,000 people ; there are a few 
Protestants, 800 Armenians, the Greek and 
Latin Christians are about equally divided 
with the remaining 6,000. We were great- 
ly impressed with the fine, manly and wom- 
anly forms of the Armenians. Their cos- 
tume is unique. The men wear turbans, 
very similar to the Moslems, and the 
women a full waist with pointed sleeves, 
of many colors, with broad squares of red 
or yellow put into the front and sleeves. 
The girls wear white veils and the married 
women a curious head-dress sewn over with 
coins and covered with a long white veil. 
A necklace of coins is also worn. Their 
features and complexion are of the finest 
type of humanity, and their real beauty 
was remarked by all our party. In the 
most prominent portions of the town and 
rising high above all other buildings, is an 
embattled monastery, an enormous pile of 
buildings consisting of the Latin, Greek 
and Armenian convents. These surround 
the church, which is used in common by 
all Christians, the church being built over 



This 

church, which was ereoted early in the 
fourth century by Helena, the mother of 
Constantino, is the oldest Christian church 
in the world. The ceiling is composed ot 
beams of cedar from the forests of Lebanon* 
Its gold and mosaics are nearly all gone' 
The date of its erection is given as in 327, 
and it is said to be the only one of Con- 
stantino's basilicas now left in Palestine* 
There are a few frescoes, five series, one 
over the other — 1 , The Ancestors of Christ ; 
2, The Principal Councils ; 3, a frieze of 
foliage ; 4, figures of angels between win- 
dows ; 6, a second frieze at the top. We 
notice also an ancient looking octagonal 
stone font, bearing an inscription in Greek, 
which one of the clergymen of our party, 
translated "For the memory, repose and 
forgiveness of sinners, of whom the Lord 
knows the names." The Greeks have a 
chapel and an altar in the church ; the Ar- 
menians, a large chapel ; the Latins have 
built a narrow, vaulted building, just out- 
side one angle of the apse, with entrance to 
the main hall of the church. The crypt of 
the nativity is directly under the apse. All 
the creeds have »eparate entrances to it. 
We go down several steps, through a long 
passage and enter ihe Chapel of the Nativ- 
ity, a low vault, hewn in the rock, thirty- 
eight teet long and twelve wide, having a 
semi-circular apse, the sanctuary of the 
room. 

There is a marble slab fixed in the pave- 
ment in the centre of which is a large silver 
star, and in a circle around the star, a Latin 
sentence, translated '-Here Christ was born 
of the Virgin Mary." About twenty feet 
from the silver star, is seen a small rece&s 
in the rock in which is a block of marble 
hollowed out to represent a manger. The 
original wooden manger was carried to 
Rome and placed in the Santa Maria Mag- 
giore, where it is shown and is paraded by 
the Pope in the Christmas Day ceremonies. 
In front of the manger is an altar, called the 



Altar of the Magi. Surrounding the crypt 
are chapels or altars of the Innocents,twenty 
thousand of whom were thrown here after 
the massacre by Herod ; the altar of the 
Shepherds and the altar of Joseph. The 
whole chapel is lighted by gold and silver 
lamps presented by the difierenf sovereigns 
of Europe. There are also below the 
church, the altar and tomb of St Eusebius j 
the tombs of St. Paula and St. Eustachia, 
who were devoted disciples of St. Jerome 
The tomb of St. Jerome is adjoining it, 
with a chapel containing an old picture 
above an altar, representing St. Jerome 
writing, a lion at his feet One of the finest 
pictures in Rome by Domenohino, is that 
of St. Jerome taking the sacrament on his 
death- bed in this chapel. The Christian 
world has relied upan the testimony of St. 
Jerome, who lived at Bethlehem, shortly 
after the erection of the church here, as to 
Its being built directly over the "khan, *i 
where Christ was born. Such stables hewn 
out of the rock, are not uncommon in Pal- 
estine. 

We seek now a resting place for an hour, 
and our party go to a point on the hill upon 
which, in ptrt, Bethlehem lies. Here we 
have a commanding view of the plain, up. 
on which the shepherds guarded their 
flocks at the date of the nativity. In the 
plain is seen a grotto, called the Grotto of 
the Shepherds, built to mark the spot where 
where the angels appeared to the shepherds, 
announcing the birth of the Saviour. Dr. 
Rogge of Pottsdam, read the chapters de- 
scriptive of the scene with the shepherds 
and the wise men, the appearance of the 
star, etc., from the Testament, also the 
hymn well known to all Christian people : 

While shepherds watched their flocks by night, 

All seated on the ground, 

The angel of the Lord came down 

And g J ory shone around. 

In returning to Jerusalem, we see the 
Pools of Solomon, three in number. Their 



appearance is very ancient. We had intended 
going to Hebron, ten miles beyond Bethle- 
hem, but learning from our dragoman that 
the Moslems who have complete control 
there, would not permit us to enter the 
cave of Machpelah, which lies under the 
large Mohammedan Mosque there, we did 
not go, of course we were greatly disap- 
pointed, as Hebron was formerly one of the 
most distinguished cities of the Holy Land. 
There, was the birth place of John the 
Baptist. There, Abraham bought from 
Ephron the Hittite the cave and field of 
Machpelah, and there lie buried Abraham 
and Sarah his wife, Isacc, Rebecca, and 
Leah, and Joseph who was brought up out 
of Egypt. The Moslems have been in pos- 
session since 1160, and as they hold Abra- 
ham to be their greatest prophet, refuse 
j admission to their sacred place, to all Chris- 
tians and Jews. 

OTJR EXCURSION TO BETHANY 

was upon donkeys. We engaged one of 
the young students in the Christ Church 
mission as our guide, learning from our 
dragoman that he was fully competent to 
pilot us to and through all the places of 
interest there. It was a bright day the 
horizon as clear as it is ever seen, as we 
rode round the walls of the city, passing 
the Hebron G-ate ; Damascus Gate, view- 
ing its turrets, battlements and machico- 
lations ; Herod's Gate, which is now closed, 
opposite to which is the "Hill of Calvary" 
and "Tomb of Christ" now held to be the 
correct location of those places, we enter 
the valley of Jehosophat and pass the 
garden of Gethsemane, and climb the 
Mount of Olives. There are three roads 
from here to Bethany, one a good carriage 
road ; the others steep and stony paths over 
the very summit of Olivet. We took one 
over the highest point, and enjoyed a grand 
view of the country toward the Dead Sea 
and the Jordan. The pathway proceeds 
down a steep decline on the opposite side 



of Olivet from Jerusalem among terraced 
fields and olive groves, with occasional 
vineyards. The shepherd is seen with his 
crook, sitting or standing among his flock, 
and an occasional ploughman preparing 
the field with his wooden plow drawn by 
oxen ; there is no change in the scene des- 
cribed in the records of centuries past. 

Reaching the foot of Olivet, we pass 
around a rocky ridge when Bethany comes 
in view. We call to mind that here dwelt 
Mary, Martha and Lazarus ; here Mary 
Magdalene washed the Saviour's feet, and 
annointed them with precious ointment; 
and from here Jesus started on Palm Sun- 
day to make his triumphal entry into Jeru- 
salem. Alas, how changed the place from 
the days when the new testament scenes 
transpired. We found it a miserable, dirty 
Arab village, but situated in a most delight- 
ful neighborhood, abounding in fig, almond, 
olive and pomegranite trees. But poor and 
wretched as it is, Bethany has connected 
with it hallowed associations, having been 
the home of our Saviour during his visits 
to Jerusalem, and having been the scene of 
some of the most aflecting incidents of his 
life. Here he was wont to lodge during 
his visits to Jerusalem. On the farther 
side of the deep valley of the Jordan, so 
clearly seen, among those distant moun- 
tains, Christ was abiding when the sisters 
sent to inform him that Lazarus was sick ; 
Martha met him, perhaps in the very road 
we had passed into the place, with the 
words : "Lord, if thou hadst been here our 
brother had not died." Here he raised 
Lazarus from his tomb, — and we entered 
it, a deep vault, partly excavated in the 
rock ; changed into a chapel during the 
time of the crusades ; the house of Simon 
the leper is also seen, and an old fig tree is 
pointed out as the one cursed by the Saviour 
— of course this is an Arab delusion, told 
for an increase of backsheesh, the Arabs 
here being inveterate beggars. In re- 
turning, we passed over the. 



ROAD, THE SAVIOUR TRAVELED 

oh the morning of His triumphal entry into 
Jerusalem. This journey is described by an 
English writer as follows : 

" Jesus reached Bethany from Jericho on 
the evening of Friday, and on the next 
day He proceeded to Jerusalem. It wai 
the time of the Passover and the city was 
crowded. The fame of Jesus, and the re- 
cent miracle of Lazarus brought multi- 
tudes to Bethany. Soon after leaving 
Bethany the road to Jerusalem meets a ra- 
vine. Prom its brow the top of Zion is 
seen, but the rest of the city is hid by an 
intervening ridge ; and just opposite the 
point where the first view of Zion is gained, 
on the other side of the ravine, are the re- 
mains of an ancient village. This may 
possibly be the site of Bepthpage, the vil- 
lage from which the two disciples procured 
the ass and foal for Christ's triumphal 
entry. The main road turns sharply to the 
right, descends obliquely to the bottom of 
the ravine, and then turning to the left 
ascends to the top of the opposite ridge, a 
short distance above the ruined village. 
The two disciples could cross the ravine 
direct, in a minute or two while the pro- 
cession would take some time in winding 
around the road. The people of the village 
saw the procession ; they knew its cause ; 
and were thus prepared to give the ass to 
the disciples the moment they heard the 
"Lord had need of him. The disciples led 
it up to the road and met Jesus. A tem- 
porary saddle was made out of loose robes, 
and Jesus proceeded. The crown of the 
ridge was gained, where the whole city 
burst upon the view. Tnere the multitudes 
raised the shout of triuirph, "Hosanna to 
the son of David ; blessed is he that cometh 
in the name of the Lord." Jesus looked 
upon the city. He looked away into the 
future, and saw desolation and woe; and 
when He came near He wept over it saying: 
"If thou hadst known, even thou, at least 
j in this thy day, the things that belong unto 

thy peace ; — but now are they hid from 
thine eyes." 

Vi wing as we did the present city, in 
returning to Jerusalem, and calling to 
mind the many time* since Jesus lived, 
that its walls, temples, palaces and towers 
have been leveled to the ground, so that 
now the former city is buried deep benea*h 



its ruins ; its tombs made desolate by rob- 
bery ; its surroundings so changed as 
to make it difficult in most instances to 
certainly identify many of its principal 
places of interest ; it can be reverently said 
that the desolation that has followed the 
rejection of the Saviour as King of the 
Jews, has been a fuLfilment of prophecies 
which must in due time bring conviction 
to the Jews themselves that Jesus was the 
son of God. Passing the vacant tombs of 
the Prophets and through the Valley of 
Kedron, and the Valley of Hinnom, 
we are soon at our hotel, having passed 
a most interesting day. 

We think it may prove of interest to the 
reader, to know a little of the 

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE 

who now dwell in Palestine. There is 
nothing European anywhere. The dress, 
manners, customs and language are really 
primitive, picturesque and interesting ; and 
the people can best be styled a nation 
of religious sects, as they make their pe- 
culiar religious ideas prominent above 
every other consideration. The moun- 
taineer is seen in bag trousers, stiff em- 
broidered jacket, and his trim turban; the 
Bedouin of the desert in his loose, calico 
shirt, his flowing gown, and on his head a 
curiously wound turban bound with cam. 
el's hair ; the Jerusalem gentleman moves I 
about in his flowing robes, yellow slippers, j 
red overshoes, and turban of spotless white i 
or embroidered India muslin ; while the \ 
Arab from the plains, appears in his gay ; 
colored spencer and short Turkish trousers. 
The turban is the prominent feature of mos^ 
all the people, and when traveling it is a 
common sight to see nearly all the ward- 
robe made into a turban and worn on the 
head. The Druses appear to be the best 
dressed, and are a fine looking race, the 
women especially, who are always grace. 
fully dressed. 

The Druses are mountaineers, do not live 
in the villages, and are very exclusive. 



They do not embrace either the Moham- 
medan or the so-called Christian creeds of 
Syria-Palestine. They believe in God but 
make no show of their religious acts. They 
are divided into two classes— the "initi- 
ated " and the " ignorant." The rites and 
ceremonies of the first are guarded with 
great secrecy, and their sacred books are 
never shown. Their meetings are held in 
an isolated building ; no other dwelling 
can be built near them. They are known 
as the original Free Masons, who held their 
meetings on high hills or low vales in the 
days of Hiram, king of Tyre. They are a 
fine looking race. 

The disciples of Mahomet are the great 
race of the country. They are said to 
number much more than half the entire 
population. The following is a brief out- 
line of their religious faith : They believe 
that God sent six prophets into the world, 
viz — Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses, Jesus 
and Mahomet, the last,the greatest prophet. 
The Jews were true believers from Moses 
to Jesus. They deny the existing version 
of the books of Moses, the Psalms and the 
Gospels ; the Koran is the only book that 
has come down unaltered in composition. 
They believe in the immortality of the 
soul, future rewards and punishments. 
Prayer must be preceded by washing, or 
the prayer will not be accepted ; the dress 
must be clean and the place of kneeling 
covered with a cloth or mat. Their Sab- 
bath is on Friday. On entering a mosque, 
shoes are left at the door with a keeper, 
and looking towards Mecca, one kneels and 
goes through his various orisons and pros- 
trations. On their Sabbath the Koran is 
read and a sermon heard. Fasting is re- 
quired in the month of " Kamidan." Eery 
Moslem is expected to go once during his 
lite to Mecca or Jerusalem. The boys go 
to school to learn to read the Koran ; girls 
never go, nor are they required to attend 
any place of public worship. Their duty is 
to visit the tombs, keep them in repair and 



whitewash them, They hold that the soul 
of the departed visits the grave of its body 
every Friday. On that day the women go 
to the cemeteries, converse with the spirits, 
and tell them all the family news and top- 
ics of the week. 

All the other large religious bodies are 
either Catholic or semi-Catholic. The 
Greek church is a great power. It is dom- 
inant in the whole Russiam Empire, Greece, 
the Grecian Isles, Egypt and Syria. Ima- 
ges are not allowed in their churches, but 
they believe in the doctrine of transubetan- 
tiation. The Jews of Palestine are largely 
foreigners. They have come from every 
country on earth. They are the most in- 
teresting people of the land, Driven from 
the " home of their fathers " more than 
eighteen centuries ago, yet they cling to its 
11 holy places " still. They weep over its 
downfall, hope and pray for a restoration to 
powei that they may rebuild again their 
ancient temple, and mingle their dust with 
that of their fathers. Some of them are 
wealthy, and colonies are forming in the 
country from other lands. This the Turks 
do not like, and throw many obstacles in 
the way of the colonists. It is to be hoped 
the day will come when Turkish domina- 
tion will cease in Palestine, as it is certain 
that as long as Turkish officials control, the 
land will continue as it is today -desolate, 
its rulers without honor or patriotism. We 
have said the land is a land of beggars. It 
is really so, especially for the tourist, as you 
cannot move hardly without hearing im- 
portunate cries for u backsheesh," especially 
from lepers, who are numerous. TourUts 
soon learn to deny beggars their requests 
by using the Arabic words, " Allah yat- 
tik"— God will provide for you— when 
they move on to make way for others. 

We returned to Jaffa by rail, but it took 
nearly a day to accomplish the journey, 
caused by the great number of people leav- 
ing the city. Our train was very long and 
made many stops, but we did not mind it, 



as it gave opportunity to see the country 
we were passing over. At Jaffa we found 
a French steamer in waiting and boarding 
her from small boats, we obtained moBt 
comfortable quarters, and on the following 
morning found ourselves anchored at Port 
Said, where we spent the day. The place 
is full of bazaars filled with all sorts of 
oriental goods to tempt the purse; there 
were many out-door gardens filled with the 
people of the country drinking and sleeping, 
making music and dancing, and passing 
life entirely unconscious, as it were, that 
there is anything of life but simply to exist. 
We were at Alexandria the next morning, 
and were transferred to a large Russian 
steamship, and sailed that morning for 
Athens, Greece. a. l. u. 



A Glimpse of Greece. 

From Alexandria to Athens— Russian Peas- 
ants-The Beautiful Isles-Ancient History 
Recalled- Historical Interest of the Ruined 
Buildings-Some Mythology. 



BY A, :l. underhlli,. 



(No. 12.) 



Naples, Italy, April 27, 1895. 
I arrived in "Sunny Italy," today; I 
am viewing Naples' beautiful bay and sur- 
roundings, including Mt. Vesuvius, from 
the hotel. The air is balmy and the scenes 
looked upon from my room are, many of 
them, new and novel. I defer mentioning 
them until later and I have 6een more of 
the city. When our party boarded the 
Russian steamer at Alexandria for our tour 
over the Mediterranean Sea to Athens, 
Greece, we found the vessel crowded with 
peasant pilgrims of Eussia who were return- 
ing from Jerusalem to their native home. 
Every available portion of the second cabin 
and steerage was filled with them ; and 
what a singular looking mass of humanity 
they were. Every conceivable style of cos- ; 
tume was before us, worn by the rich and 
poor and the middle class. An attempt to 
describe the scene would prove a failure, as 
only a panorama- could present it intelli- 
gently. These people were huddled to- 
gether in groups, sipping their tea or 
coffee, with coarse black bread, apparently 
happy ; and oft times during the day, 
going through their devotional exercises 



Singing and prayer were frequent ; the 
priests, who wear long black gowns and 
high, silk or beaver hats, leading the ser- 
vice ; old men also act as leaders, saying 
aloud the prayers in the Russian tongue, 
while all the oihers use strings of beads to j 
which a cross is suspended ; the beads when 
all handled constitute the exact number of 
words of th9 prayer said by the priests or j 
other leaders of the groups. Some of the 
hymns, or rather the tunes, sung were per- 
fect in the melody and harmony of the mu- 
sic. We see occasioially among them 
groups of Mahommedans, the men in their 
flowing gowns and the women using their 
lustrous dark eyes, in viewing the panorama 
before us. E-tch group has a particular 
space allotted them — very close quarters — 
but they manage to exist or live through it. 
At night ; quilts or blankets are laid upon 
the deck of the ship, when each group or 
family lie down side by side as close to- 
gether as they can be crowded, draw a cover- 
lid over their reclining bodies, and are soon 
in the arms of Morpheus, unconscious of 
the scene they present, or of the variety 
picture they have prepared for us, which 






we are enjoying imrnensoly. We witness 
this class of scenic life during our two days' 
ride on the sea, a brilliant sunlight by day 
and moonlight by night adding beauty to 
the still and deep blue waters of the Medi- 
terranean. 

Meeting the ship's captain, a tall, good- 
looking man, we asked a question concern- 
ing the Russian peasants. He replied by 
asking: " Why you no speak Russian?" 
We replied, we could not; never heard it 
before, as we were an American. Ho 
laughed, and then very politely told us 
what wo wished to know. When asked 
where he learned to speak Euglish, he re- 
plied in the school in Rutsia. He said 
English, French and German were taught, 
and he learned to speak all these languages 
in school. He seemed greatly surprised 
when I informed him that pupils sometimes 
learned to read foreign languages in our 
American schools, but I knew of no school, 
except private ones, where children were 
taught to speak foreign tongues. He said 
the languages were taught to the youngest 
children in the cities and large towns, so 
that when they leave the schools most of | 
them speak them very well. They do not 
bother with Latin and Greek or any dead 
language, but think it better that what is 
needed for practical life shall be taught in 
the schools. Perhaps if we inaugumt *d a 
similar system in America it would prove 
advantageous for our rising generation. 

Tne Mediterranean cruise is a delightful 
trip, especially in such a ship as the Rus- 
sian steamer we are favored to ride upon 
Tne cuisine is flr^t-class, the sea as smooth 
as glass, and the scenery amid the Grecian 
archipelago, reflected from its many isles, 
charming to look upon. The sunrise and 
sunset, as the orb of day comes forth from 
the deep water, and again dips his brilliant 
face for an evening bath, is also wonderful 
to gaze upon. Add to this, the notes of 
sweet music from a mott charming piano, 
and the voices of several of our German 



companions, one of whom is a professor of 
music in a Berlin conservatory of music, 
| and it will be seen that the hours pass 
pleasantly and rapidly as we " glide o'er 
the deep, blue sea." Before passing into 
the archipelago we see the island of Crete 
or Candia, celebrated in history. It pre- 
sents a handsome appearance from the sea. 
A chain of mountains run through the 
island, showing threo lofty peaks, very 
high and covered with snow, which glist- 
en as silver in the sunlight. Vineyards 
cover a greater portion of the island, the 
product going into wine. But little of this 
is exported, as the Cretan population live 
largely upon it, costing them only four 
cents a bottle in our money. The wine 
has an earthy taste and would not be rel- 
ished by connoiseurs. The olive tree is 
very prolific, yielding a very large crop 
As the oil is not the begt, a market is found 
for it in soap manufacture which is exten- 
sively carried on upon the island. It is a 
lovely morning that we enter the Aegean 
Sea, called by the Italians the archipelago, 
and by the Turks the White Sea. We are 
steaming amid the seventy-four Giecian 
isles celebrated in verse in the following by 
Lord Byron, who penned many of his wri- 
tings among them : — 

THE ISLES OF GREECE. 
The isles of Greece ! the isles of Greece ! 

Where burning Sappho luved and sung, 
Where grew the arts of war and peace,— 

Where Delos rose and Phoebus sprung, 
Eternal summer gilds them yet, 
But all, except their sun, is set. 

The Scian and the Teian muse, 

The hero's harp, the lover's lute, 
Have found the fame your shores refuse ; 

Their plaee of birth alone is mute 
To sounds which echo further weist 
Than your sires' ,'I.slands of the Bless'd. 

The mountains look on Marathon — 

And Marathon looks on the sea ; 
And musing there an hour alone, 

I dream'd that Greece might 8i.il] be fn 
For, standing on the Persians' grave, 
I could not deem myself a slave. 









A king sate on the rocky brow 

Which looks o'er aea-born Salamis ; 

And ships, by thousands, lay below, 
And men in nations ;— all were his ! 

He counted (hem at break of day— 

And when the sun set, where were they ? 

And where are they ! and where art thou. 

My country ? On thy voiceless shore' 
The heroic lay is tuneless now— 

The heroic bosom beats no more ! 
And must thy lyre, so long divine, 
Degenerate into hands like mine ? 

Tis something, in the dearth of fame, 
Though link'd among a fetter'd race, 

To feel at least a patriot's shame, 
Even as I sing, suffuse my face ; 

For what is left the poet here ? 

For Greeks a blush— for Greece a tear. 

Must we but weep o'er days more blesse'd ? 

Must we but blush ?— Our fathers bled. 
Earth I ^render back from out thy breast 

A re'mnant ol our Spartan dead ! 
Of the three hundred grant but three, 
To make a new Thermopylae. 

What, silent still ? and silent all ? 

Ah ! no ;— the voices of the dead 
Sound like a distant torrent's fall, 

And answer, ' Let one living head, 
But one arise,— we come, we come ! " 
>Tis but the living who are dumb. 

In vain— in vain ; strike other chords ; 

Fill high the cup with Samian wine ! 
Leave battles to the Turkish hordes, 

And shed the blood of Scio's vine ! 
Hark ! rising to the ignoble call- 
How answers each bold bacchanal ! 

You have the Pyrrhic dance as yet, 

Where is the Pyrrhic phalanx gone ? 

Of two such lessons, why forget 

The nobler and the manlier one ? 

You have the letters Cadmus gave— 

Think ye he meant them for a slave ? 

Fill high the bowl with Samian wine ! 

We will not think of themes like these ! 
It made A nacreon's song divine ; 

He served— but served Polycrates— 
A tyrant ; but our masters then 
Were still, at last, our countrymen. 

The tyrant or the Chersonese 

Was freedom's best and bravest friend ; 
That tyrant was Miltiades ! 

Oh ! that the present hour would lend 



Another despot of the kind I 

Such chains as his were sure to bind,. 

Fill high the bowl with Samian wine ! 

On Suli's rock, and Parga's shore, 
Exists the remnant of a line 

Such as the Doric mothers bore ; 
And there, perhaps, some seed is sown, 
The Heracleidan blood might own. 

Trust not for freedom to the Franks— 
They have a king who buys and sells : 

In native swords, and native ranks, 
The only hope of courage dwells : 

But Turkish force, and Latin fraud, 

Would break your shield, however broad. 

Fill high the bowl with Samian wine 1 

Our virgins dance beneath the shade — 

I see their glorious black eyes shine ; 
But, gazing on each glowing maid. 

My own the burning teardrop laves, 

To think such breasts must suckle slaves. 

Place me on Sunium's marble steep- 
Where nothing, save the waves and I, 
May hear our mutual murmurs tweep ; 

There, swan-like, let me sing and die ; 
A land of slaves shall ne'er be mine- 
Dash down yon cup of Samian wine ! 

The appearance of these islands is simi- 
lar but they vary greatly in size. Instead 
of the rich verdure and fragrant groves of 
Corfu and Zante in the Ionian Sea, they 
generally present rude cliffs, scarcely varied 
by a single tree, and whose loneliness is 
seldom enlivened by a human habitation. 
On landiDg, however, many present a very 
different aspect, and every secluded hamlet 
a new picture of life, in manners, costume 
and in dialect. Many are dry, scorched 
and volcanic; many have considerable 
commerce, while others are barren and des- 
olate. Samos is known in history as the 
birthplace of Pythagoras, and as the centre 
of Ionian manners, art and science ; but 
like most other ancient places, its glory has 
departed, although its productions of wines 
and raisins give it some commerce. 
We see Patmos, where St. John is 
said to have written the Apocalypse in a 
grotto or cavern situated on the face ot a 
high hill, pointed out from the port. In 



the cavern is a chapel, in which are kept 
burning a large number of lamps, the 
walls having thereon pictured scenes re- 
lating to the Apocalypse. We pass Syros 
or Syra, a most beautiful isle, but small in I 
size. We could not see a tree, and but 
very little land under cultivation ; but our 
captain says it is a great emporium for bus- 
iness, its chief town having twenty thou- 
sand population. He says great attention 
is paid to education, nearly all the children 
being well educated. It is a mart for most 
of the neighboring islands,the exports going 
to Constantinople and Alexandria. There 
are large tanneries and manufactories of 
steam engines, flouring mills, etc. We 
can see many handsome country villas on 
the hill slopes. 

Wepass Thermia, a very small isle, 
which was once covered by many ancient 
temples, now all in ruins. There is a good 
harbor, and from it a large quantity of 
chesse goes to Athens. Osce a year its 
people have a fete day, known as "Cheese 
Sunday," when a royal time is had in the 
amusements connected with displays of 
fancy cheese. The unmarried girls, when 
engaged in any outdoor pursuit have the 
custom of wearing white cotton gloves and 
covering their faces up to their eyes. They 
are, said our captain, very handsome Greek 
women. As we near Piraeus, the isle of 
Coos or Zja is pointed out to us. Its 
shores presented a series of terraces, cne 
above the other, the houses rising one 
above another so that the roofs of one 
range, serve as a street for those higher up. 
The town is called Reos ; silk and wine are 
exported, but its principal article of com- 
merce is the Velonia acorn, exported for the 
use of tanners. Veiy soon we are viewing 
the peninsula of Piraeus, and see two rocky 
heights connected by a low and narrow 
isthmus. One is known as Mount Aete ; 
the other which is the highest, Mount Elias, 
and is nearest to the city of Athens. Ruins 
of fortifications appear which wore once ot 



enormous proportions. They are th 
mains of those built by Themistocles, and 
look in some places to be sixty or eighty 
feet high. His tomb is seen close by tte 
sea, just as we enter the Piraeus. There is 
a most charming view as we steam around 
a jut of land and rock that takes us into 
the waters that form the harbor before the 
town of Piraeus. There are many vessels 
lying at anchor there, from the masts of 
which float in the breeze the flags of var- 
ious nations and countries. But, alas, the 
glorious stars and stripes of our own coun- 
try was not among them. The narrow and 
ruinous policy that has prevailed in our 
navigation laws sinco the close of our civil 
war has prevented. Once, it could be said, 
the stars and stripes floated from almost as 
many vessels engaged in commerce as those 
of all the rest of the world combined. To- 
day, an American flag is rarely seen on the 
sea. We have seen only one in our sea 
and ocean travel. 

We are landed from the steamer with 
small boats, bidding good-bye reluctantly 
to our genial captain who has made our 
two days voyage with him very pleasant in- 
deed. We are upon Grecian soil, and after 
interviewing a custom house official, we 
enter a carriage for a tour of the town. Here 
we find a change of money — the money 
used being mostly paper, very like our 
shinplaster currency. A drachma equals 
sevonteen cents of our money, and the 
paper is stamped from one to fifty drachma. 
Piraeus has broad, open boulevards, good 
houses, capacious stores and a very hand- 
some theatre building. We ride by beau- 
tiful gardens, profuse with flowers and fra- 
grant with tropical plants and fruits. Near 
the sea shore is pointed out the location of 
a throne erected by Xerxes, years upon 
years ago, that he might watch the prog- 
ress of the battle of Salamis. History'say 
"here he sat and saw the defeat of his fleet." 
There is a macadamized road, and without 



leaving our carnage, we ride a distance of 
five miles, following the line of the wall 
of Themistocles, the foundations are still 
visible, through 8 section of country cov- 
ered wi.h vineyards, olive trees, enor- 
mous cactus hedges and vegetable gardens, 
the Parthenon and Propylaea,with the walls 
of the Acropolis, Lycabettus and Hymettus 
being in view, and the outlines of the tem- 
ples becoming more distinct as we near the 
classic city of Athens. 

The view of the old ruins as we enter the 
city are lost sight of amid the beautiful 
modern structures that adorn many of the 
streets. Some of the streets are narrow 
and winding, but the surrounding scenery 
is beautiful, and the climate delightful. 
There is a population of about 8500 people. 
We found our hotel .^n the "Place de la 
Constitution" opposite to the royal palace. 
A good night's rest fitted us for a view and 
climb to the summit of the rocky hill, 
which rises abruptly out of the plain in the 
midst of the city, crowned with the cit- 
adel or Acropolis. It has been known as a 
fortress from the earliest ages. Its walls are 
built on the edge of a perpendicular rock, 
have a circuit of about 7,000 feet, and rise 
seme 150 feet. Their antiquity is very 
great. There is a marble staircase that 
leads up to the propylaea, the entrance to 
the acropolis. This gateway had pillars 
of the Doric order ; today, only two remain 
with their capitals, five portals are seen and 
one wing of the facade. This is called the 
"Pinacotheca" and is used as a museum 
for all the statues, inscriptions, or other an- 
tiquities fround in the Acropolis. Among 
the numerous relics preserved here, the 
most interesting are the small reliefs which 
once adorned inscriptions recording the ren- 
dering of the accounts of public officials, 
and which show the form of the celebrated 
statue of Athene in the Parthenon executed 
in gold and ivory by Phidias. 

We enter the elegant Ionic temple of 



Athene, or "Temple of Victory without 
Wings," at the right of the Acropolis en- 
trance. The temple was destroyed in 1687 
by the Turks but reconstructed about 1836. 
It stands on a basement of three steps, each 
facade having four Ionic columns — none at 
the sides. There is a frieze representing 
combats between Greeks and barbarians. 
On the platform of the Acropolis were sev- 
eral temples and statues dedicated to differ- 
ent gods ; they have disappeared, their 
ruins in fragments lying in every direction; 
some having been placed in the city mu- 
seum. The great building of the Acropo- 
lis was the Parthenon, and it was intended 
to be, as what is left of it now shows it to 
have been, the crowning feature of the col- 
lection of temples when viewed from any 
point below the high elevation on which 
it is placed. It was finished more than 
four hundred years before the Christian era 
at a cost of nearly three millions of dollars. 
It was surrounded with a peristyle hav- 
ing forty-eight columns of white mar- 
ble thirty-four feet high, with Doric 
capitals. The other portions of the build- 
ing were equal'y grand, the structure being 
dedicated to the goddess Minerva, who was 
the deity of the Athenians. During the 
Venetian seige in 1687 it was used as a 
powder magazine, which exploded, tore off 
the roof, and overthrew the greater portion 
of the temple. As seen today it is a mere 
shell of its former glory. Around the old 
temple the ruins lie in picturesque confus- 
ion, and present a mass of marble in frag- 
ments, every piece of which bears trace of 
having been of great beauty. 

To the east is a museum, which contains 
most of the sculptures found on the Acropo- 
lis. Sone are very interesting to look up- 
on, particularly the balustrade of the Tem- 
ple of Nike and a portion of the frieze Cf 
the Parthenon, representing in bas-reliefs 
the faces of the gods ; the ceremonies of the 
temple and horse and chariot races. We 
next view the "Erechthecum," the exter- 



*vrx m 01 which is visible, but the inter- 
nal parts, the guide says, are materially 
altered. The building was dedicated to the 
worship of Minerva and Neptune. On the 
northern and western sides are porticoes 
supported by Ionic columns ; the southern 
portion supported by beautiful female fig- 
ures or Caryatides. The figures are really 
elegant. The roof is partly gone. It was 
in the temple that a sacred olive tree grew, 
said to have been produced from the earth 
by Minerva during a contest with Neptune 
for the soil of Attica. The story is told us 
that Persians burned it when they had pos- 
session of the temple ; that when the tem- 
ple was recognized by the Athenians, the 
tree grew an arm's length in a single night 
There are shown the ancient foundation 
walls which supported the arsenal founded 
by the orator Lycurgus in the fourth cen- 
tury before Christ, and we ascend the high- 
est portion to obtain a grand view of Ath- 
ens and its surroundings. The scene com- 
mands a perfect view of one of the grand- 
est panoramas in nature and the works of 
man. We see the modern city and all its 
monuments. In the distance the few 
stinding columns of the Olympeium, the 
arch of Hadrian, the monuments of Lysi- 
crates, the Tower of the Winds, the Tem- 
ple of Theseus, and opposite the city 
Mount Lycabettus, with its peaked summit 
higher than the Acropolis, upon its top 
a church dedicated to Saint George ; 
also Mount Pentelicus, which rises nearly 
four thousand feet above the level of the 
sea. 

On the side of a hill near the Acropolis 
was built the Theatre of Bacchus, five hun- 
dred yeai s before the Christian era. The 
ranges of seats were cut in the side of the 
hill in the form of a semi-circle. Above 
the seats cut in the rock and below 
the high walls which surrounded it, is the 
entrance to a small cavern made into a 
temple and dedicated to Bacchus. The 
stone seats remain above the level where 



once stood the stage aod orchestra bui 
marble. Some of the fragments of the stat- 
uary which adorned the theatre are seen 
from the seats among which is a statue of 
Bacchus, of small size ; the colossal statue 
which formerly stood here can be seen in 
the British museum. The best preserved 
of all the temples is the Temple of Theseus. 
It stands alone upon a prominence where 
once was probably a cemetery. It has 
thirteen columns on each side and six on 
each end. The walls and the thirty- four 
columns of the Doric order still remain. 
Its ornamention represents the exploits of 
Theseus and Hercules. We see two groups 
of gods ; men throwing stones ; in another 
twenty figures in a line of combat ; anoth- 
er, Theseus has overcome his antagonist 
The building has been used for a church; in- 
side are old statues and busts that stood on 
the ground around years ago ; its surround- 
ings are now used as a drilling ground for 
the military. Mars' Hill, is shown, and 
we visit it; from this hill the Apostle Paul 
addressed the assembled multitude of an- 
cient Athens. It has nothing about it to 
interest the traveler save its associations. 
Near it are the remains of "Monument of 
Philopappus" and the "Areopagus," where 
the highest judicial court of Athens was 
held. There are a few other relics of an- 
cient Athens yet remaining. One, an old 
tower, called the "Horologium of Adroni 
cus," or the Tower of the Winds. It is 
built in the form of an octagon. Its eight 
sides face in the direction of the eight 
winds into which an Athenian compass is 
divided. Tne frieze is adorned with sym- 
bolical figures representing the various 
winds. North, Boreas ; N. west, Sciron ; 
west, Z>phyrus; 8. west, Libs; south, 
Notus; S. east, Eurus; east, Apeliotes ; 
N east, Caioias. The building originally 
had on its top a Triton, staff in hand point- 
ing to the quarter whence the winds blew. 
We see traces of a sun dial above the fig- 



ures on the frieze. Inside is a deep cis- 
tern ; also a water clock, which was fed 
from the wateis of the cistern. A portion 
of the "Arch of Hadrian," which stood 
when built, between the old and the new 
city of Athens is standing. It was built in 
the Corinthian order, of marble ; what re- 
mains gives evidence that in its original 
condition it was very imposing and beauti- 
ful. The "Lantern of Diogenes" is a 
small circular building of white marble. 
Beautiful columns support the roof and a 
handsome flower, cut in a single stone, 
adorns it. There is a beautifully ornament- 
ed frieze. The sculpture represents the 
metamorphosis into dolphins of pirates 
who had attacked Dionysus, It is beautiful 
work. The present city of Athens has 
many finely laid out streets and squares, 
modern buildings, and lovely houses 
placed amid ornamented grounds. It has 
been the study of the people to revive ttuir 
former skill in sculpture and architecture, 
and the new city is profusely adorned with 
statuary, ornamental fountains, and grot- 
103. The buildings also, with frieze work, 
that to our eye could not be surpassed. The 
palace of the King has an Ionic portico, 
and standing as it does, facing the largest 
square, presents an imposing appearance. 
Inside, it is profusely adorned with stuccoes 
and arabesques in the Porapeian style. 
We visited the "Academy," three build- 
ings constructed of white marble. The 
pediment of the central building has a 
group of figures representing the birth of 
arena ; two large and high columns have 
full life-sized statues of Athene and Ap- 
pollo on their top. The large hall contains 
many handsome paintings ; one, represent- 
ing a contest with the Titans, covers one 
side of the hall and is the scene of hund- 
reds of figures. It is as fine a painting as 
we have seen in all our visits to picture 
galleries. Connected with the Academy is 
the University, which has a library of 150- 
000 volumes, and museums of coins, anato- 



my, etc. The Greek church is the only 
really beautiful church in Athens. It is 
built with materials from a large number of 
churches which were demolished by order 
.of a government decree. Its interior is 
I richly adorned, and the exterior colored in 
! imitation of the mosque of St. Sophia at Con- 
stantinople. It has many ornamentations 
inside taken from the ruins of the old tem- 
ples and tombs, including figures of ani- 
mals, bulls' heads, vases, crosses and ancient 
Greek cale.ndars of festivals. We reserved 
our visit to the city museum for our last 
day in Athens and enjoyed it much better 
for the delay, because in it is placed a great 
collection of antiquities found throughout 
all Greece, and belonging to the Greek gov- 
ernment. It consists of archaic sculptures, 
statuary in great number and veiy hand- 
some, wonderful in its execution ; tomb- 
stones and sarcophagi, funeral urns, me- 
morial reliefs, votive reliefs, including a 
very large relief taken from the temple of 
Eleusis. There are also rooms full of &n- 
cient manuscripts, books, coins, jewelry, 
pottery, etc. Also a large number of rooms 
lined with marble adornments that once 
had place in the ancient buildings, which 
are covered with Greek writing pertaining 
to the age in which they were carved and 
set up. To the Greek scholar the inscrip- 
tions are, no doubt, very interesting, but to 
us they proved only views of ancient orna- 
mentation and sculpture. 



A Glimpse of Greece. 

An Excursion to the Ruins— Political Man- 
ners and Customs— Historic Ground— Gre- 
cian Agriculture — Saint Speridon — The 
Isle of Gorfu — The beautiful Scenery- 
Arrival in Italy. 



BY A, Iu UNDERH1LL. 



(No. 18,) 



There are many excursions that can be 
taken from Athens to view old Grecian 
ruins, but we omitted them, save one to 
Eleusis, on the bay of Eleusis, which owed 
its celebrity to the temples of Ceres and 
Proserpine. Our roadway traverses fine 
olive groves, skirts the "sacred way," so- 
called because over it passed torch-light 
processions from Athens to Eleusis during 
the festivals of the Eleusinian mysteries ; 
passes the Convent of Daphne, (built on 
the site of the Temple of Apoll<), where 
we halt, and inspect some really wonderful 
Byzantine mosaic work, which adorns the 
old convent. We found artists restoring 
some of the work, and were shown the 
manner of its manufacture, which is very 
interesting and quite complicated. We 
are in view of the Mediterranean and the 
various isles it contains, and pass around 
one of its many inlets on the mountain 
side, which affords us a beautiful landscape 
in the distance, with a water-way between, 
in which the Grecian fisherman are occu- 
pied in their endeavor to snare the finny 



tribe beneath them. We descend from our j 
highway gradually into the fertile Eleusin- 
ian plain, where history records "Demeter 
herself guided the plough and first taught 
the art of agriculture." For about four 
miles we pass amid vineyards and olive 
groves, and reach 

ELEUSIS, 

once the second city of Attica, more celebrat- 
ed than Athens because of its temples and 
shrines, and teachings of the Eleusinian 
mysteries. We found it a small dirty vil- 
lage. The only sign of life was in front of 
a wine shop, where were seen a number of 
robust, healthy looking men, dancing to 
ihe music of the violin and guitar, which 
they played as they danced. Leaving our 
carriage, we view the ruins we came to 
look over, and find they are quite as exten- 
sive as those of the Acropolis at Athens. 
The scene before us is a mass of broken 
marble in columns, and caps in Doric and 
Corinthian designs. They cover acres of 
ground, and among them broken statues 



and figures, that once adorned the great 
temples. Nothing is standing— all is level- 
ed to the ground, the work of the Goths 
about the year 386. Its destruction ended 
the worship of the goddess in connection 
with the mysteries. In a building on the 
summit of the slope of the hill towards the 
sea, and upon which the temples were 
built, we were shown many elegant statues 
and fine specimens of carved work taken 
from the ruins ; the greater portion found 
are in the museum in Athens. We are 
told that all the ruins throughout Greece 
present a similar scene to those at Eleusis. 
Every evening during our stay in Athens 
we were entertained by witnessing political 
processions in the streets They visited the 
various headquarters of the legislators who 
were candidates for election and called 
them to the rostrum for speeches. It look- 
ed very like our own campaigns. We 
heard several speeches in Greek, and judg- 
ed by the demonstrations of applause, the 
firing of rockets and other fire works, that 
the "hurrah" campaign is thought as ef 
fective here as in America. The question 
of finance was being discussed, and a sound 
currency demanded. 

Greece is a poor country, and agriculture 
at a low state. There is not near enough 
grain grown' for bread, and it is largely im- 
ported. Wine and olives, the orange, lem- 
on, citron, fig and banana, with watermel- 
ons afford the fruits. Corn is grown in 
some parts, but the fields are mostly used 
fur grass to keep the stock, which is very 
good in appearance. It was also entertain- 
ing for us to walk about the various quar- 
ters of Athens and view the great 

VARIETY OF COSTUMES WORN 

The Albanian or national Greek wears a 
high fez with a long blue tassel, a blue or 
red jacket with open sleeves, richly embroid- 
ered, and a vest of similar description, 
shirt with wide flowing sleeves, a leather 
belt with pouch for weapons, short breeches, 



red gaiters, and pointed shoes. The women 
a long petticoat embroidered on the sleeves 
and skirt, with a short woolen dress above 
it; they adorn the hair and neck with 
chains of coins In cold or wet weather, 
a cloak with a hood made ot goat's hair 
is worn by all classes. 

The railway ride from Athens to Patras 
is a very pleasant one ; we cross the Isth- 
mus of Corinth, a strip of land so narrow 
in comparison with the size of the peninsu- 
la, that the ancient Greeks called the latter 
the Island of Pelops. It connects the Pe- 
loponnesus with northern Greece. As we 
approach old Corinth, which was destroyed 
by an earthquake in 1858, now but a small 
dirty village occupying the site of the an- 
cient city, which is table land at the foot of 
the "Aero Corinth," we behold the summit 
of the "Aero Corinthus," nearly two thous- 
and feet above the sea. This is an im- 
mense fortress that commanded the Gulf ol 
Corinth, and has great reputation in his- 
tory, where it is said "that neither the 
Ae&polis at Athens nor any of the cele 
brated mountain fortresses of Europe, not 
even Gibraltar, can enter into the remotest 
comparison with this gigantic citadel." 
From the fortress is one of the grandest 
panoramic views obtained, covering the 
whole of southern Greece, and all the seas 
south, east and west, the Gulf of Corinth 
: and nearly all northern Greece, with the 
I cities and towns. It was to the church at 
Corinth that St. Paul directed some 
of his Epistles — but that church, like oth- 
ers to which he wrote, and the cities like 
Corinth, have now nothing to show that 
they ever existed. The Turk and the Ma- 
hommedan, and the Greek and the Arme- 
nian are the so-called Christian organiza- 
tions of the land. 

Our railway skirts the southern por- 
tion of the Gulf ol Corinth, passing through 
numerous small villages and a narrow 
plateau that lies between the gulf and the 
nighjaaountains that rise so majestically on 



both sides of the gulf 'g blue waters. For 
miles and miles we pass through currant 
vineyards and occasionally those of grapes 

THE GROWING OF CURRANTS 

is a great industry here, and the people 
generally, men, women and children are 
seen busy cultivating the bushes or rather 
trees, as in most vineyards they look like 
old grape roots, with short branches pre- 
senting an array of green shoots and leaves. 
The principal town we passed is Vostitza, a 
handsomely located place on a flat topped 
hill, and sloping gently down into the 
plain to the water. We pass many hand- 
some houses occupied by the currant mer- 
chants, also their marts of business. Cur- 
rants of the finest quality are grown here, 
and ships from various countries come reg- 
ularly to transport the wine and currants 
abroad. It is quite a place, looks as though 
several thousand people dwell here. We 
j had, and enjoyed an elegant view of the 
Gulf, and many of the Ionian Islands 
as we neared Patras, the port of com- 
merce at the end of the gulf 
adjoining the Mediterranean Sea. As 
the sun dipped its round face in the sea and 
gradually passed to the American side of 
the globe, the reflection on the sides of the 
snow-capped mountain peaks caused them 
to present a most beautiful silver hue. 
This, with the varied colors of the brilliant 
reflection on the blue waters of the sea, 
brought a thought of thankfulness that 
such beauty was presented before the eyes 
of a traveler. We are soon at 

PATRAS, 

distinguished as containing one of the 
most interesting spots to Christian people. 
It is the place of St. Andrew's martyrdom. 
The site is occupied by a modern church, 
as a memorial of the event. Nothing can 
be more perfect than the view of the coast 
around tbe gulf of Patras. The eye ranges 
over a fertile plain,green with currant vines, 



and dotted with the darker olive. The I 
isles of Zinte, Cephalonia and Santa Mauri 
are distinctly seen. On either side of the 
strait appear castles and fortifications, while 
above these and the still blue lake-like 
water, are seen the snowy walls of several 
mountain peaks. This view came at sun- 
set as we entered the town, and was very 
enjoyable. This city is situated on the sea 
and is the most important harbor town in 
western Greece. It lies in a fertile neigh- 
borhood, where vines are largely grown ; 
there are several wine companies, the Ger- 
man W ine Company the largest with ex- 
tensive vaults. The wine is largely ex- 
ported to Europe. Opposite Patras is Mis 
solonghi, where Lord Byron died in 1824. 
It is beautifully situated on the sea, and the 
handsome scenery surrounding it had a 
great charm^for the poet, who was wont to 
spend considerable time there. 

We boarded an Italian steamer here 
going to the island of Corfu, passing several 
isles in the Ionian sea; our course is north . 
ward, and we soon approach the beautiful 
Ambrosian gulf through which passes the 
boundary line between Greece and Turkey. 
Before rounding the bluff point of Prevassa, 
we pass Punta, the ancient "Actium," 
pointed out to us as the place where the 
great victory was gained by Augustus over 
Antony and Cleopatra, 31, B. C, and 
wnich decided the fate of Rome and the 
World. Antony had his fleet within the 
strait in the Prevassa bay, his army on the 
| high point Actium. The historian says, 
"Antony and Cleopatra having become dis- 
heartened, determined to return to Egypt, 
and while their fleet was coming out of the 
trait for this purpose, they were attacked 
by the forces of Augustus, and their fleet 
utterly destroyed. Cleopatra succeeded in 
reaching Egypt where she was joined by 
I her lover, and both put an end to their 
lives the following year Here Augustus 
founded the city, Nicopolis, which is 
now a mass of ruins." We have a most 



harming view as we approach 

THE ISLE OF CORFU 

and its great citadel built on a point of high 
rock which juts far out into the sea. We 
make a stop here for two days to enjoy the 
island's balmy atmosphere and see its far 
famed scenery. It is a lovely island, much 
frequented by tourists as a place for quiet 
rest amid valleys and mountains covered 
with remarkable floral and scenic beauty. 
The town has about two thousand people, 
and its principal building is the king's pal- 
ace built with white maltese stone, orna. 
mented with a colonnade in front, and 
flanked by two handsome gates, each of 
which framed a lovely picture of the sea 
and mountains. The palace stands in the 
midst of an extensive esplanade, which lies 
between the town, and the citadel, laid out 
with walks and avenues of trees. 

The palace gardens are extensive and we 
noticed therein about every plant, tree and 
fruit known to a tropical clime; also flowers 
of every name, form and hue The palace 
is grand inside, and it is easy to see that 
royalty in such a home and such a clime, 
can enjoy life in all its phases, and with 
apparent ease and comfort. From the 
citadel we had a grand view of the town, 
and the island— a picture that would make 
a charming panorama. At the opposite 
extremity of the town is seen another for- 
tresss, erected by the Venetians in the four- 
teenth century. This, and the citadel, 
give perfect protection to Corfu's beautiful 
harbor ; they are not now fitted with mu- 
nitions of war. 

There is a large church,the "St. Spridon," 
named for the patron saint of Corfu, which 
we visited. His mummied body is pre- 
served in a richly ornamented silver case 
situate in a nave of the church. Lighted 
candles burn continually in the nave, show- 
ing richly ornamented walls embellished 
with oil paintings representing scenes in 
I the life of the Saint. Three times a year 



the Saint's body is lifted from its casket, 
and is carried in solemn procession around 
the esplanade which fronts the king's 
palace, followed by the Greek clergy and 
all the Grecian authorities. We were told 
that often times the sick are brought out of 
their homes and placed so that the body of 
the saint can be carried over them, the 
people believing that health, by so doing, 
will certainly follow the action taken 
by their friends The procession is said 
to be very imposing, and great ven- 
eration shown by the Greek Chris- 
tians for St. Spiridon, who was bishop 
of a See in Cyprus, and was one of the fa- 
thers of the Council of Nice, held in 325 A. 
D. The church is large and is handsomely 
ornamented with old paintings and furni- 
ture. The surroundings of Corfu are at- 
tractive and present a sea view with a rich 
landscape as the water appears everywhere 
interlaced with the land. The highways 
are as hard as flint, so that our drives were 
most enjoyable. The one most frequented 
is to what is called the " One Gun Battery," 
named from a cannon formerly placed there. 
From this point a grand view of the strait 
below is had. In the centre of the strait is 
an islet crowned with a chapel of Byzantine 
architecture, the isle called from its form 
resembling a vessel, " The Ship of Ulysees," 
in allusion to the galley of the Phoenicians, 
which on its return from having conveyed 
Ulysees to Ithaca, was overtaken by the 
vengeance of Neptune and changed into a 
stone within sight of the port. This is re- 
ferred to by Homer in The Odyssey, xiii.» 
161:- 

" Swift as the swallow sweeps the liquid way, 
The winged pennance shot along the sea; 
The God arrests her with a sudden stroke, 
And roots her down, an everlasting rock." 

Our drive returns us through large orch- 
ards of olive trees, passing a handsome 
chapel called the "Ascension." On As- 
cension Day it is the scene of an interesting 



Greek festa, at which time all the Greek 
women of the peasantry appear dressed in 
all their varied costumes, and to the music 
of the mandolin and guitar participate in 
the national " Phyrrhic Dance " of the 
Greeks ; a dance that is said to be remarka- 
ble in the rapid change of its varied figures, 
presenting the fine forms and the graceful 
motion of the dancers before the spectator in 
a most charming manner. 

We also made an excursion to the top of 
one of the highest pinnacles of the island in 
order to obtain a view commanding the 
whole isle and its coast surroundings. We 
drove over a most excellent road lined on 
either side with — 

CACTUS HEDGES, 

the wood of which was as large as small 
trees and of great height, so high at times 
as to hide from our sight the gardens which 
they enclosed. Soon we came to the lands 
of the peasantry, situate amid small hills 
and valleys, who were busily engaged cul- 
tivating the currant for which the island is 
so much noted. Large olive trees are nu- 
merous, also grape vineyards. The grape 
vines are allowed to trail along on the 
ground, the grapes beiDg used mostly for 
wine. We pass a winery, and find that the 
wine is all a dry wine therein, kept in fair 
sized casks, and sold almost entirely to the 
natives. It is a moderately sweet drink, 
earthy in flavor, and is considered very 
healthful, but to our taste not very palatable. 
Very soon we are at the foot-hills of the 
high mountain pinnacle. For an hour we 
wind round and round the mountain, hav- 
ing fine views of the scenery below us ; and 
when near its highest point, halt at. a small 
village on the mountain side called Pelleka. 
Here we leave our carriage? and view the 
Greek peasantry in their homes, and ob- 
serve their humble mode of life. Their 
houses are built as in blocks, and they live 
very much as the people do in our tenement 
houses in cities. A Greek church is the 



only church in the place, and we see the 
priest clothed in his priestly dress and high 
hat sitting among his people chatting and 
and making merry with them. We cannot 
say that the scene presents an inviting ap- 
pearance, but it is far superior to that seen 
among the Arabs of Palestine or Egypt. 
Tney do give some attention to education, 
all the children being taught to read, write 
and sing. Hearing the air of a well-known 
hymn as we were walking through the 
streets, we halted at an open door to find it 
was a school-room filled with bright-looking 
children singing in Greek, the words : — 

" My country, 'tis of thee, 
Sweet land of liberty," etc. 

Very soon the ladies of our party and 
several of the gentlemen came in, when we 
were favored with a repetition of the sing- 
ing, greatly to our enjoyment, and those of 
us who could sing did so, greatly to the 
amusement of the children. 

It was a good half hour's climb to the 
top of the mountain pinnacle, but we are re- 
warded for our walk by the presentation of 
a scene in nature seldom surpassed. In 
every direction, as fai as the eye could pen- 
etrate, was a — 

PANORAMA IN ISLE AND SEA BEAUTY 

that is indelibly fixed in our mem 
ory. It commanded a complete view of 
the Isle of Corfu and its many villages and 
wonderful landscape, dotted with oliv 
groves, currant fields and large gardens o: 
fruits and flowers. We view knolls and 
valleys, the homes of the peasantry among 
them, with occasional churches and monas- 
teries. The coast of Turkey is visible and 
the waters surrounding the island look 
more brilliantly blue than ever. We stop 
an hour drinking in, ae it were, the pure 
bieezes, our thoughts going ofttimes to our 
distant friends in America, with the wish 
that they were present to share with us the 
pleasure we were permitted to enjoy. The 
children of the town have followed us, and 



sit about in groups singing their school | 
songs expecting to be rewarded with a 
lepta or two for their music. (The lepta is 
a email Grecian copper coin, in value about 
the tenth of one cent). They gather and 
bring us the wild flowers, which are every- 
where abundant and of remarkable beauty. 
It seemed to us that the — 

FLOWERS OF CORFU 

surpassed in variety, size, colors and per- 
fume, those of any place we had visited. 
This pinnacle has but one building, that a 
baptistry, in which the Greek priest of 
Pelleka officiates. All the children of the 
people are here baptized. It is a very plain 
building without ornamentation. As the 
nearing of the sun to the waters upon the 
west of us gave evidence of the close of day, 
wo gave a last look at the great picture of 
nature around and below us, and returned to 
our carriages and to our hotel in the pretty 
village of Corfu. 

In our walks about the village, we saw 
many beautiful stores filled with every arti- 
cle sold in other parts of the world. Finery 
predominates, and the climate permits of 
very light clothing, which is taken advan- 
tage of by the ladies, many of whom we 
saw very handsomely dressed in the fashion- 
able bazaars of the city. Some appear 
in the costume of the Greeks of years gone 
by, but the mass are in the dress of most 
civilized countries. The men also are seen 
occasionally, clothed in the old Greek dress, 
short pants, long stockings, buckled shoes 
having turned up toes with a red rosette at 
the point— a shaggy cloak thrown over 
their shoulders. The usual pursuits of 
other parts of the world are engaged in. 
There are good mechanical shops, and the 

; places of business present as great variety 
as seen elsewhere. There are numerous 

r gardens where the people gather to chat and 
sip coffee and wine and pass the pleasant 

) evenings which are almost continuous. 

J There are several newspapers published, 



and the people appear to be very bright 
and intelligent. Both evenings we stopped 
in the city we were entertained with 

SPEECHES IN GREEK 

by candidates for office, and with music and 
fireworks made in the campaingn. The 
speakers were eloquent, and seemed to carry 
their hearers with them in their addresses. 
Before leaving the island we called upon 
the American consul, and met a Greek 
gentleman, who holds the position. He 
had received an Eoglish education and re- 
ceived us very pleasantly, giving us much 
information we desired to obtain. The 
station is one that commands only a small 
salary, and Americans have not cared for 
the position. Our stop in Corfu will al- 
ways be remembered with pleasure. 
It is a sea voyage of thirty hours from 

CORFU TO BRINDISI, 

Italy. We left Corfu at sunset, steaming 
along the Turkish coast as long as we could 
see. The coast is mountainous and the 
mountains were covered with snow. The 
reflection of the sun upon them as it passed 
behind them was very brilliant, producing 
a silvered scene of great lustre. Soon the 
direction of our course is changed towards 
the mid-waters of the Mediterranean, and 
we seek rest in our cabin, to awake to a glor- 
ious sunrise at sea. The day is varied by 
occasional glimpses of good-sized fish play- 
ing in the water, steamers in the distance, 
and the hours for meals, four being served 
during the day. In the evening we are at 
the dock in Brindisi,and bidding good bye to 
our German friends who remained on board 
going to Trieste, we were soon in the 
Italian Custom House to be interviewed by 
an officer of customs. This was short work 
as the only question asked was, how 
much tobacco or liquor we had. As we had 
none of either, we were allowed to close 
our travelling case and seek our hotel. We 
take a 



VIEW OF BRINDISI 

by daylight and find it a place of consider- 
able commerce with a good harbor. A 
large number of ships and steamers are 
seen, which ply between Port Said carry- 
ing the mails to India ; also to Alexandria 
and Venice, Trieste and all ports on 
the Turkish coast of the Mediterranean 
sea. 

Brindisi has only about twelve thousand 
people, but was once much larger ; an 
earthquake destroyed it. It, was the scene 
in ancient days of contests on the sea be- 
tween Caesar and Pompey. The Appian 
Way, so often mentioned by Latin poets 
and historians, ended here. The town is 
encircled by hills ; we see an old castle in 
ruins, and a Greek pillar stands near a large 
Cathedral ; also ruins of St. Giovanni's 
church of the Knights Templars ; a chapel of 
the Knights of St. John is attractive, and 
being very old has many interesting 
features. It was at Brindisi that Virgil 
died when on his way home from Greece, 
nineteen years before the Christian Era. 
His tomb is at Naples, where he had a 
villa. The port has a large trade in oil, 
figs and wheat. We took a morning train 
from 

BRINDISI TO NAPLES 

going over a new railway that passes over 
the high mountain ranges of the Appenines. 
Leaving Brindisi the road runs through a 
flat country covered with vineyards and 
fruit orchards, then passing over a moun- 
tainous district until we reach Taranto, on 
the gulf of Taranto, a place of some im- 
portance, noted in commercial circles as a 
great depot for Italian oils and honey which 
come from the mountain districts. It has 
a population of forty thousand people. It 
was once a place of three hundred thousand 
but was destroyed by the Romans. There 
are traces of ancient temples, theatres and 
other buildings visible that were built here 
by the Greeks centuries before the Christian 



era. Our railway now skirts the gulf near 
the water, until we reach Metaponto - the 
residence in years gone by of Pythagoras, 
but now a port of minor importance. We 
see the remains of an old Doric temple of 
ten fluted pillars in one row and five in 
another. The railway makes a turn here 
and takes us in a northerly direction very 
nearly through the center of Italy, going 
up valleys through which the river Basento 
runs to Potenza — a town prettily situated 
among the hills. We now pass over ridges 
of the Appenines and are in a very hand- 
some and romantic mountain district. We 
see forests of oak, beech, etc., and towns 
perched on craggy heights above us. We 
wind along the passes until a summit is 
reached, then a down grade carries us at a 
rapid rate through Eboli to Salerno, on the 
beautiful gulf of Salerno in the Sea of 
Naples. It is placed- in a fine position, 
under an old castle, backed by a spur of the 
Appenines. It has a beautiful cathedral 
and a palace occupied by the governor of 
the district. The road leaves the sea here 
and goes among magnificent hills, between 
Mount Angelo and a branch of the Appe- 
nines, when Cava is reached, remarkable 
for having a very old monastery, which 
contains many old parchments and docu- 
ments relative to mediaeval history. We 
continue among the hills of the Appenines 
for an hour when the ruins of Pompeii, the 
smoking Vesuvius and the beautiful Bay 
of Naples come before us. We are soon at 
the station and find a good night's rest at 
on< of Naples' most excellent hotels. Here 
we found messages from our family and 
friends, and settled down for a week's stay. 



In Sunny Italy. 

Naples and its environs— Many places of His- 
toric Interest— The Grotto at Capri— Ruins 
of Pompeii and Herculaneum— The Mu- 
seum at Naples— Vesuvius an A6live 
Volcano. 



BY A, li. UNDERHILL. 






(No. 14.) 



Naples, Italy, May 6, 1895. 
Having tarried for eight days in this city 
and its surroundings, I am now prepared to 
write briefly of its many curious scenes and 
attractions. It fairly revels in antiquities, 
is the most populous of the Italian cities, 
and in situation is remarkable. The streets 
are paved with blocks of lava laid in mortar, 
and mostly straight, except those that circle 
around the beautiful bay which face g 
the city. The climate is wonderfully mild, 
a great share of the business being carried 
on in the streets, so that as you walk along 
numerous traders are accosting you to pa- 
tronize them. The city is virtually a mass 
of tenement buildings, the lower floor occu- 
pied by store keepers and mechanical shops, 
the upper floors used as dwellings for the 
numerous families. The streets in many 
parts are used as residences by the poorer 
class, as we see them eating, drinking and 
sleeping by day and by night. The " sweet 
do-nothing " feeling exists in perfection, 
caused by the peculiar atmosphere, which 
gives one a disposition to rise late, sleep 



after dinner, and clothe himself in the dress 
of the Garden of Eden. 

The time to enjoy the city is early in the 
morning ; then we breathe an air of gentle 
warmth, filled with fragrance arising 
from the thousands of flowers, the odor of 
which increases by ihe the slow evapora- 
tion of the night's dews under the first rays 
of the rising sun. The sky, a bright and 
glowicg azure,. reflects itself in the silvery 
waves of the bay ; wnilst right and left the 
whole of the scenery is beheld faintly 
through a luminous mist. The busy stir of 
morning— the bustle in the streets of the 
people of the lower population, conversing 
in their almost unintelligible dialect, which 
it seems to us no one can understand, unless 
it is themselves, makes — 

A NEAPOLITAN MORNING 

very interesting to a traveler. It is at this 
hour also that the bells are tolling for early 
mass, and numerous Capuchin monks are 
seen collecting tbe offerings cf the people to 
be distributed among the poor ; the work- 
ing population of the city and its surround- 



■ uring into the long and 

erne Toledo (a popular street), or 
hurrying toward the churches to eay mass, 
ana receive the benediction, from whence 
they go to their daily toil. At the markets 
are seen the faces of handsome girls of the 
outlying towns, engaged in selling their 
flowers and fruit — which are beautiful to the 
eye and luscious to the taste. Naples is — 

A CITY OF CHURCHES ; 

I there are over three hundred of them, and 
! we see hundreds of priests clothed in their 
long black gowns and broad- brimmed hats 
moving about among the people. Some of 
these churches are very old and are remark- 
able for their architecture and works of art, 
and they contain a collection of tombs 
which are said to surpass in beauty any in 
Italy. A detailed description of their con- 
tents would fill a large volume, the chapels 
being so numerous. There is one chapel in 
the cathedral that was twenty- five years in 
process of completion ; the gates to the 
chapel were forty-five years in the hands of 
the builders. It is impossible to describe 
their wonderful beauty. In paintings, 
sculpture and artistic arrangement, they 
illustrate fully the high position held by 
Italy at the date of their completion, cen- 
turies tgo. 

The King's Palace is a va&t building, 
three stories high, with four interior courts ; 
the best parts are its double arcade, grand 
staircase, gallery with portraits of viceroys 
and old masters, a marble terrace facing the 
sea, library, museum and the throne room, 
which is very magnificent. On the left of 
the palace is the San Carlos theatre, one of 
the largest and finest in Europe and noted 
for its opera and ballet. The opera, duriDg 
our stay in the city, commenced at ten 
o'clock and closed at three in the morning. 
The library has over 200,000 volumes and 
4000 manuscripts. Some 6000 of the books 
go back to the fifteenth century. One, 
>'a Fables, with engravings, 1485, is a 



great curiosity. Among its manuscripts is 
the celebrated Seneca of the fourteenth 
century. The Benedictine monastery li- 
brary has much older contents, going back 
to the eighth century. The Romanists 
have a college here in which Chinese boys 
are trained for priests and then returned to 
China as missionaries. There are many 
bc.utiful villas with gardens which are de- 
lightful to visit, and present to the visitor 
most beautiful homes placed amid tropical 
gardens filled with plants, flowers, fruits 
and vines. Here an evening is delightfully 
passed, especially in the Villa Nazionale, 
one of the most fashionable promenades of 
the city. It is lined with trees and statu- 
ary, places of refreshment, music stands, 
and has a large tquarium, one of the most 
interesting we have visited. The — 

TOMB OF VIRGIL 

is a little d( med building, or columbarium, 
with niches in it, surrounded with trees 
and ivy* It was here at his villa that he 
wrote his Georgics and yEueid. From 
what we had read of N aples, we supposed 
the city wns overrun with beggars and that 
tourists were always beeet by them on every 
side. Thanks to the action of the present 
government, the nuisance has been abated ; 
police constables are now stationed in vari- 
ous parts of the city who prevent it, and 
the lazaroni are. given street work to pro- 
vide for their wants. Carts and donkeys 
are numerous in Naples and the custom of 
bringing droves of goats and cows with 
calvt s into the city morning and evening, 
to be milked before the dwellings in the 
streets, is the same here as in Cairo, Egypt. 
There are a great many of the population 
d in the manufacture of lava and 
coral articles and imitation antiques, which 
go to all parts of the world. 

The great attraction of Naples really con- 
sists in its natural beautks and the sur- 
roundings of its beautif-il bay, including 
Vesuvius and its buried cities, Pompeii and 



im, which present a delightful 
succession of romantic inland scenery, 
broken by continual views of the sea. We 
boarded a steamer one morning for a tour 
of the bay, but particularly for a visit to 
the- 

ISLAND OF CAPRI 

ar.d to Sorrento, the birthplace of Tasso, 
the Italian poet. It was a bright, clear, 
sunshiny morning, not a sign of cloud or 
haze to impair the beauty of the scene from 
the steamer's deck, as we steamed over the 
bright, clear waters. Large fish played 
unconsciously around our steamer, and the 
beauty of the scenery became more and 
more entrancing. Italian musicians were 
playing airs from the well-known operas 
and singers added their sweet voices to the 
music as we glided swiftly along towards 
Capri. We had a perfect view of the beau- 
tiful bay and all its surroundings, the scene 
being best described in the following lines : 

" This region, surely, is not of the earth, 
Was it not dropped Irom heaven? Not a grove, 
Citron, or pine, or cedar ; not a grot, 
Sea-worn and mantled with the gadding vine, 
But breathes enchantment. Wot a cliff but 

flings 
On the clear wave some image of delight, 
Some cabin-roof glowing with crimson flowers, 
Some ruined temple or fallen monument, 
To muse on as the bark is gliding by. 

Yet here methinks 
Truth wants no ornament, in her own shape 
Filling the mind by turns with awe and love, 
By turns inclining to wild ecstasy 
And soberest meditation. 

Here the vines 
Wed each her elm, and o'er the golden grain 
Hang their luxuriant clusters, checkering 
The sunshine; where when cooler shadows fall, 
And the mild moon her fairy net- work weaves, 
The lute or mandoline, accompanied 
By many a voice yet sweeter than their own, 
Kindles now slowly ; and the dance displays 
The gentle arts and witcheries of love, 
Its hopes and fears, and feignings, till the 

youth 
Drops on his knee as vanquished, and the 

maid, 
Her tambourine uplifting with a grace, 
Nature's and Nature's only, bids him rise." 

It is nineteen miles from Naples to Capri, 
a two hours' ride and the sun was at high 
meridian as we neared the island. It is re- 
markable for its picturesque scenery, with 
no trace of volcanic formation, which makes 
it much sought for residences by the wealthy 



of Naples. Then, it has a perfect climate, 
its vegetable productions, the oil, wine a) d 
fruits being celebrated as the best in Italy. 
Its great natural curiosity is 

THE BLUB GROTTO, 

which has been pictured and written about 
for years and years. Descriptions fail to 
impress its beauty upon the mind ; it must 
be seen to be appreciated. It is named 
from the bright sky color of its transparent 
interior, which is about 200 feet long. Our 
steamer anchored near by and a swarm of 
small boats were present to escort passen- 
gers inside. Each boat took two passen- 
gers at a time, and we rowed near the is- 
land, were told to almost lie down in the 
boat when a favorable wave and good worl 
by our oarsmen sent us scratching throug' 
the small aperture which leads into thi 
wonderful cavern, where the water thai 
drips sparkling from the oars is intensel; 
blue, and that lovely color prevails every- 
where. It seems as if we are in a halo of 
brilliant colors. The light of the sun 
pierces through the entrance into the grotto 
underneath the sea, but broken and dimmed 
by the green water, and thence it is that 
such magical effects arise. The whole of the 
high rocks are sky blue and green in the 
twilight, resembling the hue of moonlight ; 
yet, every nook and depth is distinctly vis- 
ible. The water is thoroughly lit up and 
brilliantly illuminated by the light of the 
sea, so that our dark boat glides over a 
bright shining surface. The color is a 
dazzling blue without shadow or cloud, 
like a pane of opal glass ; and as the sun 
shines down, all that is going on under the 
the surface of the water is clearly seen, and 
its living creatures are visible. We see the 
coral insects and polypuses clinging to the 
rocks, and far below, fish meeting and 
swimming past each other. It is a natural 
aquarium. As we row around, new ob- 
jects are continually coming to light, and a 
change of position reveals something en- 



tirely new and magical. The brilliancy of 
the dome of the grotto grows more beauti- 
ful as we look upon it, as every move- 
ment of the water is continually making 
changes in the brilliant rainbow hues which 
cover it. We tarry quite a little time en- 
joying the wonder, and as we turn towards 
the entrance the daylight seen through it 
seems a bright orange ; we crouch down 
again to gain a passage to the big sea, and 
are soon on our steamer going to Sorrento. 
There is another feature of Capri that 
must be mentioned. That is the vast flight 
of quail that comes annually to the island 
from the south. They come in August 
when nets are hung on poles on every high 
point and they are caught by the thousand 
and sent to Naples and other towns of the 
bay. The people obtain from them a large 
revenue. We see the remains of several old 
palaces from the steamer, one of which we 
are told was at one time occupied by Tibe- 
rius. A half hour's ride brings us in 

VIEW OF SORRENTO, 

situated on a rocky bluff, commanding 
a magn.flcent view of the bay. The 
houses seemed perched one above the other, 
placed amid the most beautiful gardens of 
fruits and flowers. We were so charmed 
with the view that we resolved to tarry a 
night, and upon reaching the landing,were 
transferred by small boat to a wire rope 
railway and drawn up to the level of our 
hotel which we entered through a luxuriant 
garden, filled with oranges, lemons, roses 
and fl >wers beyond description. Our hotel 
was a most magnificent one ; furnished 
with all the modern conveniences and 
adorned in all its rooms with furniture and 
furnishings that equalled any we had ever 
seen. It reminded us of the famous Del 
Monte and Coronado hotels of Southern Cal- 
ifornia. Seated in our pleasant rooms, the 
balconies high above the sea, with the 
balmy air,the pure sky and all other bright 
surroundings, was like a dream of perfect 
happiness. 



Hearing the music of a good band we 
took a stroll through the lovely hotel gar- 
den, which was brilliantly lighted with 
Chinese lanterns and upon reaching the 
wide main street of Sorrento, found it also, 
from one end to the other, a scene of brill- 
iancy and merriment. Every building on 
the half mile street was profusely illumin- ' 
ated to the very top. Arches were arrayed 
in all the colors of the rainbow and covered 
with glass jets of various colors through 
which shot the brilliant electric light, add- 
ing to their beauty. It appeared as if all 
the people of the surrounding country had 
gathered there, so great was the crowd. 
Noticing a statue profusely decorated, we 
made our way to it to find it was a full 
life sized statue of Taseo, who was born 
therein 1644. We soon learned that the 
occasion was a 

CELEBRATION OF TASSO'S BIRTHDAY. 

Very soon police appeared and cleared 
lines on either side of the street. Then the 
band played Italian airs most beautifully, 
when a shout revealed a donkey race, don- 
keys being ridden by good sized boys. 
They were obstinate, mule-like, the race 
affording great fun for the crowd. This 
was followed by a foot race and one by five 
women in short dress, bearing water jars 
filled with water on their heads. They 
tried to run and the water came splashing 
along the line ; the people hurrahed, the 
women increasing their speed, and every 
minute it looked as if the water jars would 
1 jse their balance and go to the earth — 
but they did not and the race closed with 
one girl far ahead of the others. She was 
paraded through the entire line to receive 
the plaudits of the people. This was fol- 
lowed by a sack race, when the hour for 
addresses was reached. The remainder of 
the evening was passed in listening to them, 
followed by a banquet and dancing until — 
we did not remain to report. But we had 



seen Italian life in all its reality, and its 
people from the poorest peasant to the 
wealthy arrayed in their richest costumes. 

In the morning we took a carriage for a 
ride to Naples over ihe cliffs and through 
the towns surrounding the bay. It is a 
most picturesque route with the sea on one 
side and hills and cliffs on the other. It is 
a charming labyrinth of orange and lemon 
gardens, olive groves, narrow lanes, villas, 
vast beds of flowers, etc. We pass over a 
beautiful plain of volcanic rock covered 
with mulberry and other trees hemmed in 
with hills on three sides and the sea on the 
fourth, where the clifls are very high. The 
whole coast is a series of villages and resi- 
dences until we reach Castlemarre which 
commands a full view of Vesuvius, which 
we see spouting its volumes of red lava and 
smoke every few minutes. Castlemarre 
has been the scene of several earthquakes, 
but this does not seem to decrease its popu- 
lation as it is a favored resort of the Neapol- 
itans. It is also the place where ships for 
the Italian navy are built, and fitted for sea 
duty. 

We visited the ship yard and found it 
a very busy place. Several ships were 
nearly completed and others about to be 
launched. It was a very pleasant drive 
on to 

THE RUINS OF POMPEII, 

where we discharged our coach for a tour 
of the ruins. This city was buried to a 
depth of several hundred feet in the year 79 
by an eruption of Vesuvius, and remained 
buried for nearly seventeen hundred years, 
when a portion of the ruins were unearthed 
in making excavations for an aqueduct. 
Since that date, and during the past hun- 
dred years excavation has been gradually 
going on. Today the ruins appear as a 
deserted town or city, buildings roofless and 
dismantled, yet in a good state of preserva- 
tion, and from them as they stand, and 
their contents which we see in houses re- 



cently uncovered, we can see how th 
Romans of eighteen centuries ago liv 
among them. Houses are now seen in 
which the entrance led into another court, 
the whole surrounded by rooms of all sizes. 
These were closed in, the courts open to the 
air. Some of them have windows. Around 
the courts which had mosaic floors, are 
marble seats and tanks and fountains for 
use and ornament, vases of flowers, statuary 
n,nd marble tabks. The walls are mostly 
stucco, and are adorned with frescoes, those 
recently brought to the light as bright as 
they were eighteen hundred years ago. 
That portion of the city which has been 
exposed to view for many years, is interest" 
ing in viewing the numerous streets and 
their surroundings The buildings are 
mostly one story with occasionally two 
storks, which were evidently dwellings. 
The houses have many rooms about twelve j 
feet square. The streets are very narrow, 
iaid with blocks of lava, in which we see 
the ruts of wheels, stepping stones and 
raised pavement for foot passengers. There 
are signs carved on the face of buildings 
supposed to have been shops, as a bunch of 
grapes for* a vintner and a cow for a milk 
man. In front of others are jars indicating 
a wine shop. The whole presents as per- 
fect a scene of desolation as it would be 
possible to prepare. Excavation is con- 
tinually going on, and the resolution of 
the authorities not to disturb any of the 
contents of the buildings or the statuary 
from the courts adjoining them, is to be 
oommended, as the visitor now sees Roman 
homes in their arrangements and adorn- 
ments and can form at least a slight idea 
of their mode of living. 

In a museum, at the entrance of the ex- 
cavations are seen many relics taken from 
them ; also budies which have been found. 
Cinders had hardened around the bodies 
during their decay, thus forming a mould ; 
liquid plaster was poured in, and thus the 
perfect forms preserved In one house 



e.ghteen Bkeletone were found of women 
and children, also one loaded with money 
and valuables, gold and silver coins of 
undent dates, now seen in the Naples 
inustum. All around Pompeii was a wall 
about twenty feet thick and about as high, 
laced with blocks of lava inside and out ; 
tbis was entered through gates —there are 
many towers rising above the rampart 8 
pierced with arches. Through one of the 
arches we pass to the Appian way that led 
to the Herculaneum gate. Along this 
roadway are a number of tombs, many of 
them looking to be in a good state of pre- 
servation. This is called the 

STREET OF THE TOMBS. 

These tombs are so distinctly marked that 
it is known whose tombs they were. We 
rested for a time in the ruins of the Ampi- 
theatre, a building more ancient then the 
Colliseum at Rome. The lower part where 
the gladiatorial scenes took place is almost 
perfect, and we passed through the under 
ground passages and rooms in which were 
confined the animals used in the arena. 
The old stone seats that filled the semi- 
circle are perfectly preserved, grass and 
rowers among them. 
Most everything found at Pompeii is 
exhibited at 

THE NAPLES MUSEUM, 

and we passed a day there viewing its con- 
tents. It is by far the most interesting 
building to visit in Naples, as it has be- 

E~me the general depot of all the riches re- 
vered from the ancient buried cities of 
jmpeii and Herculaneum ; also other 
localities near Naples and Sicily. The prin- 
cipal objects of interest on entering the ves- 
tibule are a c^llos6al statue of Severus, a 
Flora, and a Melophene taken from the 
theatre of Pompey at Rome. We pass 
to a collection of ancient frescoes found 
at Pompeii and Herculaneum, over sixteen 
hundred of them, some of which are beauti- 
| fully portrayed. We mention a few that 



seemed to us to be of remarkable beauty : 
Hercules killing a Lion ; a love bargain ; 
dancing girls Bhowing their graceful posi- 
tions and singular costumes : three graces ; 
marriage of Bacchus and Ariadne ; and 
Chiron teaching Achilles to play upon the 
Lyre. 

There are whole rooms paved with 
mosaics, brought from Pompeii and deco- 
rated with frescoes, statues and bronzes 
from that old city. There are also vases 
and jars containing figs, corn and nuts, and 
whole loaves of bread still bearing the 
bakers mark. Rich jewels are also seen, 
rings, head ornaments, necklaces, anklets 
and armlets. There is a large collection 
of Egyptian antiquities, not a tithe how- 
ever to what we had seen in Egypt. The 
collection of ancient sculpture is very fine, 
occupying three large galleries. Here we 
666 the Wounded Gladiator, statue of Mi- 
nerva, the Farne8e Bacchus, busts of Ju- 
lius Caesar and Alexander the Great, also 
those of Marcus Aurelius and Hadrian. 
There is a beautiful piece of Greek statuary, 
a Faun carrying the boy Bacchus on hie 
shoulders, and a most lovely Psyche. The 
halls of the Flora, the Muses, and the 
Venuses are filled with wonderful works 
of art in the most beautiful marble. In 
the hall of Atlas is the great statue of Atlas 
kneeling and supporting the globe, sur- 
rounded by collossal busts and statues of 
Homer, Cicero, Herodotus, Demosthenes, 
and others. The gallery of bronze statues 
is also fine ; the most interesting, the sleep- 
ing Faun ; Mercury in Repose, the danc- 
ing Faun, the drunken Faun and a water 
cock, containing water, which a card there- 
on says, has been hermetically sealed for 
eighteen centuries. Other departments are 
filled with ancient glass, terracotta ware, 
gold and silver ornaments, vases and gemp., 
and in one room is seen a thousand or more 
rolls of charred papyrus paper, originally 
manuscripts of Greek and Latin authors. 



■I 



Scholars have unrolled and published the 
contents of many of them. They were 
found in a library in the ruins of Hereu- 
laneum. In the upper rooms of this 
museum are fourteen rooms devoted to a 
picture gallery. The principal gems are 
Jesus disputing with the Doctors in tb.a 
Temple, and the Parablegof the Mote, by 
Salvator Rosa, a native of Naples. A 
Madonna by Correg^io, it represents the 
Virgin asleep holding the infant Saviour 
on her knees. The • Holy family by 
Raphael, and Mary Magdalen by Titian. 
Tnere are also elegant drawings by Raphael 
and Michael Angelo and a beautiful bronze 
of Dante, said to have been taken after his 
death . 

We gave our last day in Naples to its 
greatest sight, the great burning — 

VOLCANO OF VESUVIUS 

A visi, to this wonder of the world is now 
comparatively easy to what it was several 
years ago. It is a day's journey, however, 
and we engage passage in one of Cook & 
Son's carriages for the trip. Our carriage 
passes through tne principal streets of 
Naples to Portico on the main road and 
through the open Campagna by San Vito 
and the enormous lava fields to the Royal 
Observatory. In the roadway we are met 
by bands of musicians who are ready to sing 
and play for a few centimes, and at least 
every half mile we are halted at wine rooms 
from whence come girls with flasks of wine 
and oranges which they offer for sale at 
trifling prices. 

We have watched the steam and red 
stars of lava going forth from the crater 
during our three hour's ride to the observa- 
tory, and are almost directly under the 
most active volcano in the world. Vesu- 
vius rises in the midst of the plain of Cam- 
pania and is surrounded on the east by 
mountains of Appenine limestone ; it is 
open to the plain of Naples on the west and 
on the south, its base is reached by the sea. 



Its highest point is over four thousand feet 
above the sea level. It rises gradually 
from a base thirty miles in circuit. Near 
the top is a table about five miles in diame- 
ter, and bounded by a red craggy ridge, 
and has Monte Somma, about four thous- 
and feet high, on the north, and Punta del 
Palo, the present cone, on the south. Be- 
tween these is an old crater near the obser- 
vatory, where the eruption of 1872 broke 
out. From the observatory to its base it is 
surrounded with fertile fields, many of 
which yield three crops yearly ; also towns, 
villages and vineyards, that in spite of re- 
peated warnings are still densely inhabited 
on account of the extraordinary richness of 
the soil. Our carriage continues its zig-zag 
course over the steep side of the volcano for 
nearly an hour from the observatory, with 
an immense column of smoke stretching 
across the sky and a bright flow of red lava 
coming down the cone "as vivid and bril- 
liant as the coils of a fiery serpent," which, as 
it cools, turns to a dingy red. We reach th e 
foot of the crater to find a funicular railway 
leading to its top up the long inclined face 
of the cone above us. Hare is also a post 
and telegraph i ffice, and adjoining is a most 
excellent restaurant. We dine and strength- 
en the inner man preparatory to the work 
before us. We enter a car of the railway 
which is drawn by a wire rope and station- 
ary engine. The depot is 861 yards above 
the level of the sea and we go — ■ 

UP THE INCLINE 

facing the mountain 896 yards to the upper 
8 tation. We are now 1295 yards above sea 
level. It is a walk, or rather a climb, of 
one hundred yards from the upper station 
to the crater. Leaving the upper station, 
we are supplied with staffs and wade and 
climb through powdered lava to the brink 
of the crater. The guides are gentlemanly 
and direct our way so as to avoid a fall of 
the red hot lava, that every few minutes 
comes belching with great noise and force 



from the large crater we are approaching. 
They watch the action of the volcano and 
tell us when to go near its great opening. 
We hear the awful rumbling, and when it 
is time to retire a distance from the open 
cone, the alarm is given and we do so to 
witness big slugs of molten stone fall at 
our feet almost. These red hot slugs have 
the appearance of melted iron as it runs 
from the fire pot of the furnace. It is a 
wonderful sight, and during the hour we 
tarried at the cone, the discharges came 
every five minutes. Just as we were leav 
ing came the largest, from which we had to 
run at a lively pace or be hit by some of the 
lava, so great was the volume of the dis- 
charge. The little that we saw of Vesuvius, 
gave a slight idea of that tremendous out- 
burst of lava and rock that buried the peo- 
ple of Pompeii and Herculaneum and their 
Iiities centuries gone by. 
Vesuvius has been more active this year 
han for a long time, and scientists have 
ingered near the volcano in order to obtain 
observations should there be a great erup- 
tion. The recent earthquakes are attribu- 
ted to the mountain's action. We returned 
to the little car of the railway to make our 
descent. Facing the glorious view before 
us, overlooking the Naples bay with all its 
surroundings on sea and land, we gradually 
went down to the station below. Here we 
mailed postals to our friends, refreshed our- 
selves, and rested for a time. Then to our 
carriage and down the long inclined road- 
way, erjoying the evening's sunset as we 
neared the great city of Naples. That our 
readers may have a good — 

DESCRIPTION OF THE MOUNTAIN 

we quote the following from a celebrated 
author, who says : 

To gain a distinct conception of tfie as- 
pect of the mountain, shape out for yourself 
by a mental effort the following objects : 
First. A sloping plain three miles long and 
three miles broad, stretching up with a 
p otty rapid ascent to an elevation of more 



than "two thousand feet, very rugged in the 
surface, and covered everywhere with 
black, burnt stones like the scorite of an 
iron furnace. Second At the head of this 
plain and towering over it, a cone of the 
same black, burnt stones with sides remark- 
ably strait and uniform, shooting up in the 
blue sky to a further elevation ot 1500 feet 
Third. Behind this cone a lofty circular 
precipice (the front of Monte Somma) 1400 
feet high and three miles long, standing 
like a vast wall and of the same burnt ap- 
pearance. Fourth. At the lower side of 
the plain, between the burnt ground and 
th -i sea, a belt of land two miles broad, laid 
out in vintyards, but intersected every one 
or two furlongs by terraces of the same 
black, calcined matter, projecting like off- 
shoots from the central mass, and now and 
then unveiling old currents of lava from 
beneath them. Very little lava is visible, 
but the course of the different currents is 
traced by the long terraces of scoriaa which 
cover and flank them. 

The port of Naples is a very busy port, 
having a mercantile harbor of about a quar- 
ter of a mile square, in which come ships 
from all over the world. There are regular 
lines to New York, London, Hamburg, 
Marseilles and other ports. The export of 
wines, fruits, silks and works of art are 
large, and for a year past foreign travel has 
greatly increased We could have tarried 
longer in the lovely climate, but proceed 
on our journey northward. 



The Capital of Italy. " ! 

Approach to the City — Its Beauty — The 
Chnrches and the Religious Observances— 
The Magnitude and Grandeur of Saint 
Peters— Other Churches of Special Interest. 



Eisnach, Germany, July 1st, 1895.— My 

ride Irom Naples to Rome by rail was a 

very pleasant one. We leave the city 

viewing Vesuvius on our right, and are 

I whirled along at a lively rate through 

' groves of fruit trees interspersed with vines 

i trained among the trees so as to form trelljs- 

; es that appear very much like miniature 

hedges. The green of the vines is very 

brilliant, and the red flowers seen in the 

grass plots add to the beauty of the view 

before us. We are soon at 

CASEKTA, 

a town of several thousand people and 
known as the Versailles of Naples. Here 
are several palaces and military buildings; 
also some massive Norman fortifications 
one thousand years old. Here Garibald. 1 
had his headquarters, and here is one of 
the most beautiful palaces in Italy. It is 
worthy of description. 

The palace encloses four courts which 
unite in a centre hall, surrounded by sixty 
four columns and a staircase which opens 
to all parts of the palace. Over the hall is 
a large dome, and there are square pavil- 
ions over each corner of the pile. It is in 
four aLoriesj about eighty windows in each, 
the two lower being rusticated, the two 
upper faced with rows of Ionic pillars- 
There are three gateways in each side. 
Many parts of the palace are decorated j 



with rich marbles, especially the chapel, 
which contains beautiful paintings; among 
them Bonito's Marriage of the Virgin, and 
a Presentation in the Temple by Mengs. 
The theatre rests on sixteen ancient 
Corinthian alabaster columns taken from 
the Temple of Seraphis at Pizzuli. The 
garden i3 very extensive, having beautiful 
fountains and cascades adorned with the 
finest statuary. The water comes through an 
aqueduct resting on arches neariy two 
hundred feet high. 

Our next stop is at Santa Maria di Capua, 
another populous town. Here we see the 
ruins of an old ampitheatre which Ick 
if it might have held many thousands of 
spectators. The historian says that large 
schools were once maintained at Capua for 
the training of gladiators. We halt at 
Capua, to find a place of some twenty 
thousand people. The town is at the foot 
of a ridge, a muddy stream called the Vol- 
turno running through the narrow valley. 
The town is fortified, a large fort being 
seen behind it. Here was the scene of one 
of Garbialdi's great battles. 

Oar train now passes through a most fer- 
tile district, said to be one of the most lux- 
uriant in Europe, yielding in addition to 
the product of the dense plantations of 
fruit trees, two crops of grain and one of 
hay in the same season. We pass caaay 



lall villages which are placed upon 

of the mountain ranges upon either 
ide the valley. Halting at Oassino, where 
'e see the famous 

Mdlri SKY, 

the headquarters of the Benedictine monks, 
which ut the year 500. It 

is said to contain a valuable library of very 
ancient manuscripts from the sixth century, 
also many editions of books not found 
where, as these monks are very scholarly 
men, famous for their gathering of litera- 
From the station the monastery 
like a castle enclosed by a massive 

We are now amid mountain scenery, 
nal valleys and flowing streams, 
are occasionally walled towns in 
and many fields of grain, olive or- 
chard? and vineyards, until we reach Frosi- 
;n a beautiful location on a hill, com- 
manding a view for miles around, of the 
valley and river We pass through 
the valley, m mntainS - many 

\g the 
mountain passes viewing on one Hie the 
- and on the other those of the 
Tne town oi Velletri is 
1, situate on a high spur of the Vol- 
t-clan range, where we behold large quanti- 
fy glistening in the sunlight, 
we are upon the heigh: 
iead U8 into the ancieut city. We are 
viewing the remains of great aqueducts, 
and tb ■ the old Romans. m We are 

.de of the old Appian Way, and see 
xred for by shepherds on 
the great plain that is before us. The 
great dome of 8 »n our 

termi- 
nus landing us near the remains of the 
baths i 

■ 
It is iuij >rt as* 



»*"< 



; or in its walls and in the 
a few miles around it, is 

the material on which w< 
knowledge of the antique past Wi 
day's ride are the remains of all the ej 
of civilizations of which we hav 
knowledge, and in the galleries, can 
of the remains found 

IX AN JO AKOUND ROME 

is the most c f what we have of antique art 
The first object of interest as wo approached 
the city was the great wall, an irregular 
zigzag structure mainly of brick, 
towers and bastions of all kinds of masonry. 
It has been breached and repaired many 
times. There were originally more 
than the half dozen which now give en- 
trance to the city. 

The Tiber river winds for three miles 
through the city, a dirty yellow stream. 
Thf?re are no quays or walks along its 
crumbling banks. Seven bri<! 
suspension, cross the river. The on*' 
used was built by Hadrian to lead across to 
hie Mausoleum, (now the castle o 
Angelo) and Circus in the gar 
mitia. The greater number of the streets 
are narrow — a goodly number hcwever, 
have been widened, and tnere are many 
open squares. There is 
and at many street corners are lights 
images of the Madonna and Saints, 
many modern buildings have 
within a few years, giving the city an ad- 
vance in style comparative with European 
cities. The most lively thoroughfare is the 

where are found all the fashi< 
places of business 

The principal drives are in the ' 
outside the gate Del Populo, th 
built by M. Angelo, and the Pincian Hill, 
a fine pr-menade overlooking the Piazza 
del Populo, and the Bor^hese Gardens. It 
is here that the fashio of Rome is 

j seen, \ that of Central Park. 

j 



I and fifty or more squares 
nmented with 

FOUNTAINS AND OBELISKS. 

see in them the Marcus Aurelius 
column ; the obelisk of Constantius from 
Thebes ; the Baptistery of Constantino; an 
obelisk from the mausoleum of Augustus ; 
& full sized marble elephant fountain, on 
the back of which is a small obelisk, taken 
from the temple of Isis ; a red granite obe- 
lisk brought from Heliopolis, Egypt; in 
another stands the remains of the temple of 
.Neptune; another, a large fountain placed 
on Ionic columns ; and numerous other 
Egyptian obelisks. We see more of these 
columns here than in Egypt, the old 
Romans having brought them from Egypt 
me. 
The most beautiful square is Del Populo, 
being decorated with semi-circular terraces, 
lined with statues, and opening on the 
east side to the Pinician Gardens. An im- 
mense fountain, the water passing through 
the mouths of full sized marble lions, with 
a granite Egyptian obelisk rising from the 
center of the fountain, adorns the square. 
A great number of the obelisks are covered 
witb hieroglyphics. 

THE CHIEF BUSINESS* OF ROME 

is religion, and the observance of church 
festivals ; therefore, great prominence is 
given to its ecclesiastical buildings and insti- 
tutions. The present pope, Joachim Pecci, 
s'yled Leo XIII, is the two hundred and 
fitiy-eighth in the line of succession, and is 
now eighty-five years old. The support of 
his establishment, about six hundred thous- 
and dollars yearly, is paid by the govern- 
ment of Italy. Then there are nearly four 
hundred churches in Rome, besides numer- 
ous chapels. If the reader will reflect a 
moment, he will see tnat it requires a very 
large number of priests and prelates to occu- 
py all these places of worship, and especially 
so, when service is held in all of them 



twice daily, and in some almost continu- 
ally. Add to this the large number of 
schools and colleges of the church, in which 
young men from all over tne world are 
educated for the priesthood, and we have a 
city whose chief business is attending to 
church work. Id our walks we often met 
these students on the streets in companies, 
and noticed am >ng them representatives of 
every type of man, from the blackest Afri- 
can, the Chinese, and every shade of color 
and feature of the white race. 

The churches as. a whole are very beauti- 
ful, and some are under the patronage of 
Sovereigns, as the Lateran under the French 
and Maggiore under the Spanish. Most of 
the churches have— 

MOSAIC PAVEMENTS 

and pictures in mosaic, and all are rich in 
marbles, precious stones, painting and gild- 
ing. Very little stained glass is seen, as 
mosaic is peculiar to Rome and its manu- 
facture is carried on by the aid of govern- 
ment factories. The Church of St. Paul 
(outside the walls), and a few others, have 
beautiful stained windows. A noted writer, 
Forsyth, has a beautiful description. He 
says : — 

" The churches of R me are admirable 
only in detail. Their materials are rich, 
the workmanship is exquisite ; the orders 
are all Greek. Every entablature is ad r 
justed to the axis uf each coiuma with a 
mathematical scrupulosity, one visionary 
line runs upward bisecting every shaft, 
oval, bend, dentel, modillion and lion's 
head that lies in its way. The distribution 
of ihe parts is nearly the same in all 
Tneir aisles- are generally formed by ar- 
cades. Over these are sometimes grated re- 
cesses, but never open galleries. The choir 
j terminates in a curve, which is the grand 
J field or decoration, blazing with leal gold 
! and glories. In the middse of the cross is 
1 the high altar. The chapels of the Holy 
| Sacrament and the Virgin are usually irj 
j the transept. Tbose of the Saints are 
i ranged on the sides and each being raised 
different family, has an architecture 
own — oft times at variance with thai 
which thus loses its unitv 




will write o 



y of Rome's churches 
some of them. Our first 




!XT PETJSB 

Christian temple in the world. 
I, the Vatican Hill on the site of 
where many of the early 
suffered martyrdom. It has 
>ne hundred and sixteen years 
ild it, and the cost is stated at forty 
is of dollars. It costs thirty thous- 
ir to care for it. It is said 
Ls present form is due more to Mich&el 
in to any o\her person. It is 
a circular court 740x590 
^closed by collonade? resting on 284 
s in four rows, forming three alleys 
n them, and crowned with statues 
tints. In the middle stands an 
isk without heiroglyphics, 
which formerly stood in the Circus of Nero. 
. is 132 feet Irgh to the cross, 
'und^o* by points (if the compos 
on th<> ground below. It*is flanked by two 
ihree basins, the 
g 70 feet and falling in a contin- 
asin to basin. The circu- 
ed by open corridors 
le church, and the distance 
lionades to the church 
uies of St Peter and St. 
mi of the steps 
and bis Apostles, 
d by the Itnlian way 
iat is into twenty-four 
Five broi ze 
ible, opposite as 
opening into the church. The 
.0 feet 
| 

■r the 
: the chun 

e pass 






..f immortality." 
When in the interior, we view two small 
g cherubs holding the water basin, 
but th feet high, and other figures 

which appear only life size are equally 
large. The pen of St. Mark in the great 
dome is five feet long. We behold the 
nave beautifully ornamented with its mass- 
ive pillars, arches and fine pavement com- 
posed of marbles ; its lofty dome, which 
commands the admiration of all strangers ; 
the canopy covering the high altar, com- 
posed of bronze ; the tribune, the gilding of 
which cost over $100 000 from designs of 
Michael Angelo, rich in ornaments, at the 
bottom of which is the bronze chair 
Peter. 

There are three aisles ; the mi 
feet broad and 153 feet high .to the top 
of the vault which is enriched with surk 
panelling, gilding and figures. Four archeR 
40 feet wide run down each side of this 
aisle, with piers faced by pilasters and 
S niches, medallions and arms of Popes. 
I As many as 134 Popes are buried in St. 

, and the ornaments in m 
I marbles and bronze in the chapels of this 
J great basilica are endless. Many of these 
mosaics look like paintings and are < 

riginalsih the Vatican. Inonechapel 
we see M. Angelo's — 

CELJ 

of the Virgin holding the dead Christ on ! 
her knees ; in another 

Martyr an ; another, the 

same painter's mosaic of the Communi< n of 
St. Jerome; another has Canova's Toi 
Clement XIII, with figures of Religion 
and Genius, and two lions, which oct 
him eight years ; and we could go on nam- 
ing sculpture, mosaics and paintings by tho 
hundred, but space forbids. We will quot e 
the sa i . who says : — 



y surpasses all powers of 
ptlon. It appears like some great 
work of nature — a forest, a mass of rocks, 
or something similar — for I never can 
reahze the idea that it is the work of 
man. You s'rive to distinguish the 
ceiling as little as the canopy of 
heaven. You lose your way in St. 
Peter's ; you take a walk in it, 
and ramble till you are quite tired. 
When divine service is performed and 
chanted there, you are not aware of it till 
you come quite close. The angels in the 
Baptistery are monstrous giants, the doves, 
collossal birds of prey. You lose all idea 
of measurement with the eye, or propor- 
tion ; and yet the heart must expand when 
standing under the Dorneand gazing up at 
i . When the music commences the sound 
does not reach you for a long time, but 
echoes, and fbats in the vast space so that 
the most singular and vague harmonies are 
borne towards you " 
We attended 

SERVICE" IN ST. PETER'S 

on Sunday, and heard its great" organs, 
elegant singing, and witnessed a pro- 
cession headed by the Pope's representative, 
which visited all the chapels and altars, 
as it passed through the great aisles of the 
church. We never expect to see another 
so imposing a church scene. We paid 
several visits to St. Poter's and always 
found something new to admire. r We be- 
lieve we could go every day for a year and 
find some new object to feast our eyes upon. 
The basilica, St. John Lateran, is one of 
the four chief basilicas within the walls. 
The Popes are alwayj crowned here It 
dates from the fourth century. The front 
consisting of a magnificent collonade is very 
impressive. There are five en trances, the one 
in the centre havi og a bronze door taken ! 
from the Temple of Peace in the Forum i 
The top of the facade is decorated with 
fifteen statues -of Christ and Saints. The 
interior is divided into five aisle3 ; collossal 

STATUES OE THE TWELVE APOSTLES 

fill up thvj pillars of tha nave. It is in the 



form of a Greek cross, with a central dome 
magnificently decorated with gilding, mar- 
bles and pictures, bearing the title of the 
Corsini Chapel. A mosaic picture of St 
Corsini adorns the altar. This high altar 
wlr.ch stands beneath a superb Gothic 
tibernacle is a work of great beauty of the 
fourteenth century ; inside is a table of 
wood, upon which the tradition is, that 
St. Peter officiated. In the left hand 
transept is the altar of the Holy Sacrament, 
having four gilt bronze columns, said to 
have been taken from tha Temple of Jupiter 
Capitolinus. Near this is a table of cedar 
woorl, said to be that on which the Last 
Supper was eaten. There are numerous 
chnr^ls and mausoleums combined, one 
known* as the Torlouias, is magnificently 
decorated in gold and marble, said to have 
cost $300,000 Another' chapel of the 
Massino family has m my beautiful sepul- 
chral monuments. We are told that un- 
der the beautiful high altar of the church 
are deposited ihe heads of St. Peter and St. 
Paul. 

Adjoining the church is the Baptistery of 
Constantino, an octagon of 65 ft. diameter, 
the roof supported internally by eiga. 
columns of red porphyry, standing on the 
heads of eight others below. The fon ir 
of green basalt. We witnessed the bapt'sru 
of a young child here On the palace side 
of the church is the Scala Panta or 

" HOLY STAIRS," 

composed of twenty-eight marble steps, „a : d 
t-> have belonged to Pontius Puate's 
p-alace at Jerusalenrs, w ;ich penitents as- 
cend on their knees, praying as they go to 
visit a likeness of the Saviour in the Sanc- 
torum at the top. 

Another celebrated basilica, is the Santa 
Maria Maggiore, dedicated to the Virgin. 
nt entrance faces a large open square ; 
a handsome O >rinthiun column about sixty 
feet high with a bronze Madonna on top 
near the entrance. Tnere is also a statue 



pai terior is com- 

<( three naves, divided by forty -four 

-iumns of white marble which once 

3 the Temple of Juno, and is paved 

it is fi led with 

.vhich are claimed to be 

of the fifth century. There is a beautiful 

high altar h rphryry urn under a 

oanopy, wUh marble angels. Here 

Pms IX is buried in a splendid crypt, 

built ia honor of the A^sumpiion, adorned 

'iding, lapis lazuli, and 

other precious slones. 

Near it is the Sistine chapel of the Holy 
Sacrament, which is large enough for a 
church. We see also the tombs of other 
Popes and the richly ornamented Borghese 
chapel. Here is shown Christ's cradle, said 
to hive been brought from Bethlehem. A 
great Altar of the Virgin rests on fjur pillars 
of oriental jasper, agate and gilt bronze 
A miraculous picture of her, said to be the 
work of St. Luke, is above the altar. 

Toe chapel of Santa Lucia has a very 
interesting sarcophagus now used as an 
There are two rows of bas-relief ; 
aud in the middle of the upper row are two 
within a shell, like an oval frame, 
ibjects in the upper series are Raising 
/.>irus, St. Peter's Denial. Moses re- 
ceiving the Law, Sacrifice of Isaac, and 
-hing hs Hand's. In the lower 
re : The Smitton Rock, Christ's Ap- 
prehension, Daniel and the Lions, Blind 
to Sight, and the 
le of the Loaves. Etch subject 
ts of two to four figures, and there 
>ut thirty-eix in all. The chapels 
are many, and we cannot notice them all. 
The i ^eous and costly ot the 

: .' 

, THE W'A 1 

e beautiful than this 

I Dave and aisles, 

d, and its beau- 

the Corinthian 



order i in number. There is a 

magnificent high altar standing under a 
splendid canopy, . by four columns 

of white alabaster which were presented by 
Mehemet Ali of Egypt. In the centre of 
the tribune, which ia very elegant, stands 
a richly decorated episcopal chair composed 
of marble, and on either side are columns of 
violet mafble. There is a series of portraits 
of the- Popes in Mosaic, made at the Mosaic 
works in the Vatican. 
To be in Rome and not visit the 

CHURCH OF THE CAPUCHINS 

would be a grevious error. We found it a 
place of interest as it contains Guido's, 
Michael, and other pictures of celebrity ; 
also the famous Capuchin cemetery, where- 
in are placed the bodies of the monks, their 
bones being afterwards resurrected and 
artistically arranged in crjpts, forming a 
curious and singular spectacle. 

In the church Ava Coeli is a 

highly dressed Bambino, (image of 

the child Christ,) which is ven- 

i erated as mqst holy. It is a curious look- 

j ing image but is worshipped as if it was the 

| real child Jesus, because it was " brought 

to the church at midnight by an Angel who 

immediately flew back to Heaven." 

The church, St Clemente, is visited to 
view a subterranean basilica recently exca- 
vated beneath it, with its old columns still 
standing and frescoes as perfect as when the 
church was buried. They are the earliest 
known frescoes of Christian painting, ex- 
cepting those seen in the Catacombs, and 
are thought to date from the eighth century. 
We visited many more churches but will 
not write of them as the}' are more or less 
alike except in the pictures that adorn them- 
One and all are filled with paintings of! 
celebrated artists, and any description of ! 
them would fail to convey the least idea of ■ 
their elegance. 



More About Rome. 

The Ancient City, The Colosseum, Panthe- 
on and Appian Way— The Leaning Tower 
of Pisa— Beauties of Florence. 



by a. ii. u:nderhi:l]l. 



(No.' 16.) 



.. We gave a full day to the Vatican Pal- 
ace and Museum. The Vatican is the Cap- 
itol of modern Eome, and its Gallery of 
Sculpture and Paintings the most complete 
and valuable in existence. The Palace is 
the residence of the Pope, whose Swiss 
guards, in yellow and red livery, are seen 
there on duty. It consists of two irregular 
groups of buildings joined by long corri- 
dors, three stories high, with several courts 
inside, in which the collections of the Mu- 
seum are placed. There are several thou- 
sand rooms. Entering the celebrated Sis- 
tine Chapel, we view the ceiling painted by 
M. Angelo. It is adorned with bible 
scenes, which are now very much faded and 
are blackened by the smoke of candles. 
The celebrated " Last Judgment " is also 
faded and decaying. It represents on the 
left of the Christ, the wicked falling thun- 
derstruck with terror through the air, and 
are seized by the devils from below. The 
righteous are being carried to the elysian 
fields by myriads of angels. In another 
chapel are two beautiful frescoes by M. 
Angelo, the Conversion of St. Paul and the 
Martyrdom of St. Peter. We next enter a j 

GALLERY OF MODERN PICTURES 

and reach various rooms showing frescoes by 
Raphael, representing ihe principal events of 
bible history. There are 52 designs. In the 



Picture Gallery is Raphael's greatest work, 
" The Transfiguration " It is wonderful. 
We see here Domerchino's master-piece, 
"Communion of St. Jerome;" Guido's 
"Madonna;" Titian's "Madonna and 
Child." In anotber department, the. 
famous Raphael Tapestries — most elegant 
woven pictures — procured by Leo X for the 
Papal Apartments, 

The Museum and Library are next in 
;rder. The Library in its ecclesiastical 
manuscripts is said to exceed by f r any 
other in Europe. Thf- re are 35,000 manu- 
scripts and 100,000 printed books. We 
noticed in the Library some magnificent 
vases of malachite, and a fine one of ori- 
ental alabaster ; also an elegant porcelain 
vase covered' with Christian emblems. In 
the Museum are wonderful inscriptions 
upon old marble taken from tombs and 
sepulchres ; rooms of statuary and busts. 
The grandest figure is a coliossal group 
of the Nile ; another, the Faun of Praxiteles, 
which furnished the suggestion of Haw- 
thorne's story, and a "splendid statue 6f ; 
Mercury. We see also a sarcophagus —a J 
celebrated reiic of ancient Rome— said to be 
that of Scipio Barbatus. It has upon it 
most perfect Latin inscriptions Our eyes 
are charmed with a view of a grand basin 
in porphyry, found in the Baihs of Dio- 



. ; the statue of M Meager with hns 
D.g and the Boar's Head ; the celebrated 

on in the folds of the Serpent; ihe 
Apollo Belvedere of Carrara marble : the 
Belvedere Mercury. 

Of the statues, the finest is the Amazon 
and a statue of Ariadne, sometimes called 
Cleopatra, from the resemblance which her 
bracelet bears to a serpent. Wa view also 
ihe Hall of the Muses, the Candelabra 
Gallery, the Egyptian Museum, the Etru?- • 
cafc Museum, the Profane and Sacred Mu 
teums, a Papyrus Cabinet, ore of medals, 
o le of antique mosaics, and take a view of 
'he Vatican gardens. Before leaving, we 
| v'is'i ed the room of the Dying Gladiator, an 
c-tlled from the famous statue of a Goth of 
that name found in Sailust's Villa, perfect 
for its anatomy. It is marvellously simple, 
'rwautiful, snd full of expression. Lord 
Byron upon seeing it penned thwso lines : — 

e before me the Gladiator He. 
He leans upon his hands; his manly brow 
Consents to death, but conquers a<ony, 
And his droop'd head sinks gradua ly low." 

l.i the Muscuui of Christian A. tquitus 
in the Lateian Museum, adjoining the 
Lateran Church, is a very interesti: g col- 
of sarcophagi, frescoes and inscrip- 
tions, taken from early Christian graves in 
ktacombs. At one end vt the gallery 
•8 the famous statue of the martyr, S. flip- 
p <iytus, a disciple of St. Ireneas of the 
third century. It is said to be the — 

OLDEST CHRISTIAN STATUE 

listing. It is a sitting figure, and when 

found in an old cemetery was identified by 

on the chair. Here'we see over 

fifty seulpturd sarcophagi tbe sculptures 

lenting the Smitten Rock, Daniel in 
the Lion's Den, Noah's Ark, Creati >n ui 

Sacrifice of Isaac, History of Jonah, 

and the Hirih, Life at,d Miracles of Christ. 

earlj always represented as 

irdltss youiig man. There are also 
many flfie paintings. 



One morning we entered the spacious 
grounds of the Villa Borghese, now the 
best villa of Rome (and there are many) 
It contains a temple and hippodrome, grot- 
fcoes, fountains, and a palace in which is a 
large picture gallery. On a statue, ut the 
entrance, is an inscription inviting the 
stranger to " c me and go when he pleases, 
and ask for what he likes." There has 
been erected in the park a building in 
which is shown a large panorama of Rome 
as it appeared ono hundred years ago We 
entered and heard a good description of the 
panorama by Signor Spadoni, in good 
English. It was very interesting, and 
aided us greatly when we were looking 
over the remains of old Rome The picture 
vallery is said to be the finest outside the 
Vatican. The paintings are placed in sev- 
eral large room* The noted ones are — 
Raphael's Entombment of Christ; the 
Saviour, by DeVinci; the Three Gr 
Samson and thv. Holy Family with St. 
John, by Titian ; Verms and Cupid, and 
the Magdalen, by Del 8arto. There are 
also arabesques, mosaics and the most ele- 
gant frescoes. Add to these, statues of 
Juno, Amezon, Hercules and Apollo, and 

others and we have a collection that 
is frequently visited by lovers of the beauti- 
ful in art. 

There are other vilbs that ar> 
The "Villa Ludovisa," where we Bee 
coes of Domenchino and the " Auror. 
Guercino (Aurora is on a ch 
cupids and laughing girls as the ra 

Dg light appears). The pictun 
the ceiling and curves of the dining hsll. 

'her pictures are worthy of mention— 
Guido Reni's painting, " Beatrice C< 
and his celebrated fresco, " Aurora." The 
latter is considered his master- piece, and I 
will not try to d scribe it. Lord Byron, 
speaking of it in his Don Juan, says : — 
" Alone is worth a tour to Rome." 
It will be expected that a few lines con- 

g— ^r 



ANCIENT ROME 

be printed It is difficult to write of this, 
as there are three ancient Romes — one that 
the Gauls destroyed ; that which Nero built 
and that one re -built by his successors, j 
The ancient Rome, seen today, is a view of 
a mass of ruins. Most of the sites of ancient 
buildings are marked no* by churches. It 
was in this way that the ancient Christians 
perpetuated the record of a visible triumph 
over the old religion. The ruins of the 
Roman Forum are interesting to look over. 
Entering it, we have the remains of the j 

I Temple of Concord, the three columns of j 
the Temple of Vespasian, the colonade of j 
the Temple of Saturn, and in front the 
Arch of Septimus Severus, with other re- 
mains. At the left stands a solitary column 
and farther to the left three columns, which 
the map says, mark the era of the Forum 
proper. We face the Colisseum seen in the 
distance, and at our right are vast ruins of 
the Palace of the Cassars. We are con- 
ducted to the ancient Temple of Romulus, 
now a church and are soon at the Arch of 
Janus. Next, to the Temple of Yesta, a 
circular building of the best times of Roman 
architecture and, fortunately, in a good 
siate of preservation. Near here is what is 
called the House of Augustus— the largest 
mass of ruins on the Palatine. We ascend 
a terrace, above this, and obtain a fine — 

VIEW Or THE CAMPAGNA 

and the southern environs of Rome. They 
include a view of the Old Pyramids, Baths 
of Car&citlla, the Gate of Sebastian, the 
Churches of Saints John and Paul, and St. 
John Lateran ; the juins of the Baths of 
Titus, and a grand view of the Colosseum 
on its ruined side. Descending, we reach 
the Baths of Caracalla by a narrow street, 
and are in the old Appian-way, viewing 
the Tomb of the Scipios, the Columbaria 
and the Avch oi Drusus. Returning towards 
the Forum, we go under the Arch of Con- 
stantine, formerly an Arch of Trajan, and 



are in front of a fountain, in which gladia- 
tors used to wash after their exercises. To 
the left, we pass the Arch of Titus, which 
stands on a ridge, dividing the Forum ftvm 
the land on which the Colosseum is built 
To the right of the Arch of Titus is a huge 
structure, the — 

TEMPLE OE VENUS AND ROME, 

a part of which only remains. Any quan- 
tity of fragments of granite columns strew 
the ground. This temple was built by 
Hadrian. Just beyond are the remains of 
the Basilica of Constantino, and* further on 
the great Flavian Amphitheatre, known as 

THE COLOSSEUM, 

built in honor of Titus, and on which it is 
said 60,000 Jews worked ten years. It is 
said to have given seats to over 80,000 spec- 
tators, and when inaugurated by Titus, 
5.000 wild animals and 10,000 captives 
were slain ; the inauguration lasting one 
hundred days. It is a wonderful structure, 
having in its four stories, first — the D<«nc ; 
second — the Ionic ; and the others, the 
Corinthian orders of architecture. It cov- 
ers six acres of ground. The ruins of the 
Colosseum are being repaired, and it is be- 
lieved that in time it will be fully restored. 
We ascended the Tower of the Capitol, 
famous for its view of the seven hills In 
the tower is a sacred bell which announces 
the death of a Pope and the beginning of a 
Carnival ; below is a Museum <. f Ancient 
Architecture. 

We visited the Pantheon, which is ver> 
nearly in complete preservation. It was 
built by Agrippa about A D. 27. It has a 
domed ceiling lighted by a circular aper- 
ture at the summit ; the wall supported b) 
a huge bronze ring. It has very ancient 
i"<>king bronze doors. It is sacred as being 
the resting place of the bones of the great 
painttr, Raphael, whose works adorn bo 
much that is attractive in Rome. There is 
a be .utiful statue of the Madonna in this 



chapel, im- gift of Raphael. The tombs of 
t Rome constitute another of its 
striking features. The " Castle of St. An 
gflo," formerly the tomb of Hadrian, is the 
most imposing. This old tomb was th< 
tomb of th« Emperors for many generations. 
It is a colossal siructuro and is passed b\ 
every visitor to St. Peters. 

Wo spent one day on the Appian-wa\ 
with Lr. S R. Forbes, an author, who has 
devoted many ye?;rs of his life to the stud} 
of .Home's ancient hisiory. He pointed out 
to us, and gave a descriptive history of, all 
the ancient templfs, villas, tombs and his 
torical places, from Mount Soracte to the 
Alban Mils arid from the Sabines to th> 
sea. For six miles we trod the Via Appn> 
over the very stones travelled by St. Paul 
and to the site of the Three. Taverns, when 
the brethren met St. Paul, eleven miles from 
Rome. The ruins of massive Tombs of the 
Scipios, of Seneca, and other old Romans, 
together with tho Columbaria of servants of 
the household of the Cfesars, were interest- 
nig sights. The Columbaria are buildings 
f»r the reception of urns containing ih; 
ashes of cremated pers-ns, with rows of 
niches all around. Each niche contained 
an urn with the names of the persons whe se 
a hes they held. In the niches of the ser- 
vants of Ca^ar's household are memorials, 
( which Dr Forbes says, are those of Try- 
phaena and Trvphosa, Onesimus and 
Epaphrfi8, mentioned by St Paul in his 
lies, written from Rome 
We descended to the Calacombs of St. 
Ualixtus, so called because Calixius placed 
the bodies of the Christian martyrs there, 
w^re many miles of these under- 
ground tombs, and during the persecutions 
of the Christians they were used as their 
secret habitations. They are very narr« w 
;eg, having openings on each Bid n 
whj*© a body was placed and sealed up. 
There are four or five rows above one 
i on each side. There are also rooms 
i< h shi.w they have been 



used for worship, in which we see 
representing religious scenes - crosses anc 
the face of Christ. We made our return to 
the city, passing the Claudian Aqueducts, 
and visiting many painted tombs on the 
Via Latina. We had passed a most inter- 
esting day. 

THE STUDIOS OF ROME 

are also interesting places ; as one views 
modern statuary from designs of tho old 
masters, and many models of statues of the 
present age. The studios of American 
artists are always attractive to Americans 

The time allotted for our stay in Rome 
had passed, and the following day we were 
going by rail to Pisa. The railwa} 
ak>ng the coast of the sea of Tuscany, » d 
through a succession of swelling hills and 
wide plains desolate and poorly cultivated, 
with here and there a dilapidated castle or 
a ruined fortress. We pass a territory 
filled with salt marshes, and several small 
towns. At Follonica,we notice large smelt- 
ing works, the iron coming from the Island 
of Elba, opposite the town, at one time the 
residence of Napoleon I, upon his abdication 
in 1814. 

We are soon at Leghorn, a city of 100- 
000 people, and a flourishing sea port. It 
is a neat, clean and well built city, and has 
large coral fisheries. It is a manufactur- 
ing town, its inhabitants being engaged in 
making woolen and straw hats and caps, 
glass, paper, starch, oils, etc. We see a 
beautiful marble statue of Ferdinand I 
surrounded by a group of four Turkish 
slaves in a kneeling posture. The tomb of 
the distinguished author Smollett, is in the 
cemetery here. A run of eleven miles 
brings us to 

PISA, 

one of the oldest cities of Italy. We stop 
for a day and look over its principal at- 
tractions, the ancient Duomo, Baptistery, 
Leaning Tower and Campo Santo, which 



form a splendid group of buildings. The 
tower doe* lean fearfully, but as it has been 
in the same incline for six centuries with- 
out variation, it will probably remain as it 
is We ascended to its top for a view of 
the city and country, and of its surround- 
ings, as it affords a good view of the other 
pr. minent structures around it. The as- 
cent is over 294 steps to the upper story, 
180 fe-t high, which contains seven bells, 
the heaviest weighing six tons.* They are 
always rung at funerals. 

The cathedral is in the f >rm of a Latin 
cross ; sixty nine columns of Corinthian ar- 
chitecture divide the aisles ; the cupola is 
supported by four piers rising from the cen- 
ter of the building. It differs from the 
Rome churches in having galleries over the 
pier arches. The arches are carried all 
round and on the columns upon which they 
rest are figures of lions, dogs, boars and 
men. Its bronze doors are carved with 
subjects from the life of Christ and the Vir- 
gin. The inside is gorgeous with gilding, 
sculpture and paintings, and rich glass 
windows. Its lofty painted cupola is lined 
with gilding and mosaic. In one end is a 
veiy large mosaic of Christ, the Virgin and 
St John. There ara twelve beautiful altars, 
all designed by M. Angelo. A silver altar 
adorns the sacrament chapel, covered with 
bas-reliefs, said to have cost $36,000. The 
High Aitar of the Cathedral is of immense 
size and very elaborately ornamented. It 
has ma*>y paintings, one of the best, the 
Virgin in glory, surrounded by Saints and 
angels ; another, the Triumph of the Mar- 
tyrs, is very fine. This altar is splendid, 
with inlaid marble and mosaics, and on 
either side of the deans' stalls are figures of 
four Saints, St. Peter, St. John, St Cathar- 
ine and St. Margaret. Above the ahar is a 
beautiful figure of the Saviour on the Cress, 
and behind the r.ltar a remarkable picture, 
of Abraham and Isaac. 

The Bsptist^iy is an immense building 



150 feet in diameter arid 160 feet high. It 
is very beautiful, bving almost entirely of 
marbie ; has a mosaic fl >or, a large broca- 
tella, and a marble font, big enough for im- 
mersion, ornamented wr h rosettes and mo- 
saics. There is an altar equally ornament- 
ed. Th9 most celebrated work of art in the 
Baptistery is the pulpit, built in the form 
of a hexagon and supported by seven ele- 
gant columns, standing on animals. The 
columns are faced with most beautiful stat- 
uary. Tne reliefs above the columns are 
master-pieces, representing The Birth of 
Uhrist, The Adoration of the Magi, The 



Presentation in the Temple, The Cruc.fix- j 
ion, and The Last Judgment. The cupo- 
la, has a curious echo which amuses visitors, 
and is re&ilj quite remarkable. 

The Campo Santo, or Holy Field, is so 
called because the earth which this edifice 
surrounds was brought from Jerusalem in 
fifty galleys as long ago *s 1228. It has 
inside many cioisters, lined with singular 
old frescoes. Most of the tomb3 are very 
curious and olJ, many of thorn elaborately- 
sculptured and adorned with statuary. The 
frescoes cover a large space. The subjects 
are the History of Job ; Creation of A lam 
and Eve and Expulsion from Par 
Noah's Vintage and Drunkenness ; Build- 
ing the Ark, Deluge ; The Curse of flam ; 
Noah's Sacrifice ; Tower of Babel ; several 
scenes in the life of Abraham and forty or 
fifty others, ail illustrating Bible history 
There is a good university in Pisa which 
keeps in memorial Galileo, who was born 
here, aud who was one of its eminent pro- 
fessors. The cathedral has a large bronze 
lamp that is almost continually swinging, 
its motion is said to have suggested to Gali- 
leo the theory of the pendulum. Pisa has 
some fine monuments and studios of marble 
workers We visited ■ ne and saw artists 
working the beautiiul white marbie of j 
which the elf gant statuary of Pisa is formed 
It is wondeiful that such perfect figure 
can be shaped by the hand of man, so like 



ments ; one to Giotto the painter. At the 
corner of the print dpai entrance stands a 
high bell tower cal ea the "Campanile." 
It risfie 275 feat, and wj travel up 413 steps 
to the upper story where are six large be\\z 
The tower is adorned with statues of evan- 
gelists, prophets, patriarchs and sibyle, with 
a series of bas-reliefs. Facing the Duomo 
once stood the Temple of Mars. On its 
site now stands a Baptistery of black and 
white marble taken from the ruins of the 
old temple in which all the children of the 
city are christened. Two christenings to b 
place while we ing its inside. 

The great attractions of the baptistery are 
its broDze doors, three in number, covered 
with reliefs of the H.- t John the 

Biptist, and other scriptural su I 
They are wonderful works of art and we 
spend a day studying th»m II requires a 
good knowledge of biblical scenes to fully 
understand the designs of the artists who 
draw them. It is said, over five thousand 
baptisms occur annually. The Pantheon 
of Florence is the "Church Santa Croce," 
belonging to the Black Friars, in which 
M. Angelo, Galileo and many of the most 
celebrated men of Italy are entombed. By- 
ron in allusion to this, penned these lines : 

" In Santa Croce's holy precincts lie 
Ashes which make it holier; dustwhich is 
Even in itself, an immortality." 

It is still the favorite burial place of the 
Florentines. The monument to Michael 
Angelo is a great work. Three statues, 
representing painting, sculpture and archi- 
tecture appear as mourners. There is a 
colossal monument to Dante, and hundreds 
of other memorials, in the chapels, the al- 
tars, and the floor of the church. Florence, 
like R me, has many churches noted for 
fine monuments, beautiful chapels and ele- 
gant paintings. We visited the most of 
them, looking at the great number o artis- 
tic works therein, and can bear testimony 
to the many good things that have been said 



liie, and looking like animate creatures. 

A ride uf fifty miles up the richly culti- 
vated valley of the Arno River, which 
winds among highly cuilivated vineyards 
and fieldb, through a most charming coun- 
try, which bee me more and more beautiful 
as it approaches 

FLORENCE, 

We are at that great city cf art and cul- 
tu; e, surrounded by beauties of nature, and 
immortalized by ct lebrated pools like By- 
ron and Rogers, and renowned as the birth- 
place and home of the most celebrated ol 
the Italian painters and sculptors. Flor- 
ence is built on both sides of the yellow 
Arno river and is surrounded by walls ol 
the fourteenth century, whuh are pierced 
with eight gates. Its public gardens, 
which are many and beautiful, are outside 
the wall?. Four stone bridges cross the 
river ; one called the Ponte Vecchio, built 
m 1078, is lined on both sides with shops, 
mostly used by jewelers. Ab ve the 
h «uses ruis a gallery, connecting the Pal- 
ace V'.cchio with the Pitti Palace. These 
palaces are on opposite sides of the river. 
Another bridge has statues at the argle3 on 
both sides representing the Four Seasons, 
\hich produce a very beautiful effect as we 
approach the bridge. L'ke most Italian 
eities, the cathedral or "Duomo," is the 
great attraction, which we found massive 
and extensive. 

It is grand in its construction, is finely 
paved with colored marbles and its stained 
glass windows are the perfection of art. 
The walls are cased with a thin veneer of 
black and white marble and adorned insicre 
and out with many statues. There are 
three threat doors in front and two on each 
side, all richly carved ; many madonnas 
grace the front. There is a beautiful mosaic 
facade of the Coronation of th» Virgin over 
the middle door within the church. The 
I interior is of dark mottled stone and paint- 
ed with frescoes. There are many monu- 



and written of them by authors and corres- 
pond^! ts. The city is" also rich in pnUots , 
and art gallerie>.- We viewed the Vecchio 
Palace and the Uffizi and Pitti galleries, 
where our vision became dimmed beholding 
the various schools of painting, from cen- 
turies ago to the beautiful work of the art- 
ists of the present day. In all these gal- 
leries were artists making copies of pictures 
for other galleries, and for the adornment 
of homes of the wealthy of every land. It 
was a pleasure to see the Madonna of Ea- 
phatl, the Virgin and Child of Murillo, 
the Bella Donna and Magdalen of Titian, 
and hundreds of other paintings seen in 
prints so many times. Pictures, statues, 
music, flowers, seem and % are the life of 
Florence. The city is also rich in libraries, _ 
where we passed several pleasant hours j 
looking over ancient manuscripts and books j 
Some of these are very curious. A picture ' 
appears on a page to illustrate the idea the 
author wishes to convey, and along side of 
it is the subj act explained. This appears 
to have been the custom of many ancient 
writers. Some of the pictures are really 
artistic in design and colorings We saw a 
Virgii of the fourth century, two manu- 
scripts of Tacitus and letters of Dante and 
Angelo. We were fortunate in leaving 
the city a few hours before an earthquake 
visited the place, doing much damage io 
portions of the town. 



Italian Cities. 



Bologna and Venice. -Their Oddness and 

Antiquity — Treasures of Art Travel 

through the Watery Streets of Venice~The 
Fascinating Peculiarities of the City -Its 
Storehouses of Beauty in Art and. Sculpt- 



ure 



(No. 17.) 



Our next stop was at 

BOLOGNA, 

a walled city having about 100,000 people 
inside the walls. We see its two leaning 
towers from the train, visit them, and can 
learn nothing of their origin, as no one 
knows why they were built, or what pur- 
pose they were intended to serve. One of 
them is mentioned by Dante in his Inferno. 
It is called Q-arisenda. .The city is noted 
for its numerous arcades, which form the 
most characteristic feature of the town. 
The buildings on the streets, one and all, 
have the arcades on the front, which are 
the sidewalks of the streets, the passage for 
street traffic between them being quite nar- 
row. Free from rain or sun, it is always a 
pleasant promenade through the old fash- 
ioned arches, and their bazaars and rest- 
ing places, make them very attractive. 
Crowds of people are seen under them sit- 
ting at the tables, chatting, feasting and 
making merry, while sweet music made by 
orchestras, or by girls with mandolins as- 
sisted by sweet singers, adds to the pleasure 
of a promenade. We see here the same pe- 
culiar signs which are over the doors of 
the uncovered business places in Pompeii. 



For instance, over shops, an elephant or a 
pigeon, a wheel or a barrel and so on ; 
which shows that these old buildings are, 
as they look, very ancient in their construc- 
tion. We noted one old palace, peculiar 
in style, a large slab of terra cotta on its 
face adorned with a beautiful madonna and 
child, dated 1437. There are 

MANY FINE CHURCHES. 

The most attractive, the Church of St. 
Petronius, in good Italian Gothic style 
with immense proportions. It is sur- 
rounded by chapels which are the most re- 
markable part of the building ; they con- 
tain works of art, either in sculpture, pic- 
tures, decorations or stained glass windows, ; 
that we have not seen surpassed in other 
churches. The frescoes and bas-reliefs are 
very singular in design ; there is also a 
golden safe let into the wall of one chapel 
over its altar, which is beautifully orna- 
mented. We are told that it contains the 
head of St. Petronious, the patron saint of 
the city. There are three fine entrance doors 
ornamented with rich carvings of Bible 
subjects, with heads of prophets and sibyls. 

The church, St. Domenico, is the most 
interesting church because it contains the 



the shrine of St Dominic, the founder of 
the order of Friar Preachers and of the In- 
quisition. His chapel is most beautiful in 
sculpture, marbles and paintings. There 
are bas-reliefs of events in the saint's life ; 
figures of saints ; two kneeling angels, the 
work of M. Angelo ; St. Dominic in Para- 
dise by Guido ; another represents this 
saint burning heretical books. This tomb 
is considered one of the finest works of the 
thirteenth century. We mention one 
more beautiful church, St. Stefano, which 
dates from the seventh century, aid is a 
combination of seven churches in one, with 
a baptistry in the center which is a model 
of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. It 
stands on grounds said to have been cov- 
ered by the Temple of Isis in Koman days. 
The seven chapels are ] oined by corridors 
and passages , and ornamented with mos* 
curious looking paintings. They are very 
ancient and have not the appearance either 
in design or or finish of any we have seen 
elsewhere. There is a 

MUSEUM 

adjoining the church St. Petrano which 
contains splendid works of art which date 
from the year 1100 to the present day, such 
as silver and gilt reliquaries, crosses, can- 
delabra, canonicals. The walls of some of 
the rooms are covered with magnificent 
leather tapestry of the fifteenth century in 
brilliant colore. Adjoining is the "Museo 
Civico," filled with objects found in the 
dwellings and tombs of the Umbrians, 
Ligurians, and the Etruscans, the ancient 
inhabitants of Bologna and vicinity. We 
see very rude hand-made pottery, stone 
implements, bronze hatchets, all dating 
many centuries B. C. The Umbrians 
burned their dead, and we see hundreds of 
clay urns containing the burned bones and 
ashes. Around the urns are bracelets and 
hair ornaments, some with beads of amber 
or enamel on top. There is one room hav- 
ing Ligurian graves in which are seen the 



bodies as prepared by those people. Then, 
the Etruscan remains : as they buried as 
well as burned their dead, we see both 
methods. Weapons are found in these 
tombs ; beautiful gold jewelry, Egyptian 
glass perfume bottles, and Greek painted 
vases ornamented in the art of the best 
Grecian days. In other rooms are elegant 
Venetian glass, old-style musical instru- 
ments, illuminated manuscripts, Greek 
gold vases and jewelry, and an endless show 
of old Koman articles and Egyptian relics. 
We visited— 

THE PICTURE GALLERY 

to see the noted painting, Kaphael's "St. 
Cecelia in Eestacy." It is a most beautiful 
picture, one that can be looked upon for 
hours, and yet there is something about it 
that charms and keeps one still lingering 
before it. It is not to be described, but 
must be seen. There are very many hand- 
some paintings of the Bologna school, and 
several others by noted painters, as Guido's 
Madonna, his Massacre of the Innocents, 
Samson with the jaw bone of the ass, and 
the Crucifixion. We paid our respects to 
the University and looked over its curious 
books and manuscripts. Here galvanism 
was discovered in 1701 by Galvani, a lec- 
turer in the school of science, and here the 
human body was first dissected. Of course 
we saw plenty and ate our fill of— 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGES, 

so noted in the world. They are a great 
feature here and are prepared so as to be 
sent by mail. Quite a business is done in 
this way. We were told that the race of 
Bologna dogs, which figure in the city arms, 
is extinct. We left Bologna early in the 
morning so as to view the scenery along the 
way as we journeyed to " The City in the 
Sea." We are passing through a garden — 
as it appears— fiat, highly cultivated land 
covered with vineyards and small fruits. 
The roadways are fine and smooth— just 
the country for bicycle tourists, who can 



wheel for miles and miles amid the most 
charming country scenery and homes. 
Ferrara is reached — an old town going into 
decay. Then comes Padua— a city of 80,- 
000 people This is another arcaded city, 
but we could see nothing very inviting 
about it, so did not tarry long, notwith- 
standing it is a very ancient place. There is 

A CURIOSITY 

in marble architecture here worthy of de- 
scription, in an old palace. It is a group 
of sixty figures, representing the angels cast 
down from heaven^ cut out of one solid 
block of Carrara marble about five feet 
high. They are in all attitudes that the 
human form could take in such a headlong 
descent, and are so animated in appearance 
that they are almost living. Each angel is 
separated from the rest, but the whole are 
twisted and twined together in a complica- 
ted manner and are most exquisitely chis- 
elled, even in the minutest part. The won- 
der is how the artist reached the inner por- 
tion of the group. The archangel, Michael, 
forms the top of the pyramid. The artist;, j 
•Pasolata, was twelve years in completing 
the work. It is covered with a glass frame 
that tourists may not injure it. There are 
numerous churches, but we did not visit 
them, and were again wheeling on through 
a plain covered with fruits, vegetables and 
vines to — 

VENICE, 

where — 

" There is a glorious city in the ssa. 

The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, 
Ebbing and flowing ; and the salt seaweed 
Clings to the marble of her palaces." 

The approach to Venice from the main- 
land by a railway bridge nearly three miles 
long, over some 250 arches standing in the 
bay, was so sudden that we hardly realized 
we were at the station on one cf the islands 
of the truly wonderful city, which seems to 
belong neither to the sea or the land. We 
were soon seated in a gondola — a 



" Long covered boat that's common here, 
Carved at the prow, built lightly but compactly, 
Rowed by two rowers, each called gondolier,"— 

and gliding along the waterway of the 
Grand Canal which forms the crooked "8" 
through ,he city. What a curious specta- 
cle is presented, with its marble palaces, 
buildings and spires rising out of the water. 

THE PALACES 

are largely in the Gothic style, with others 
presenting nearly all the styles of the dif- 
ferent ages. They stand on massive stone 
basements of a uniform character that rise 
above the high-water mark of the sea. 
The city is built upon 115 isles connected 
by 367 bridges, divided by the Grand canal 
into two unequal parts connected by the 
magnificent Kialto bridge, which we pass un- 
der as we near our hotel. We are landed (by 
stepping upon stone steps) directly into the 
reception room and are soon pleasantly lo- 
cated for a few days' tour of the city. Our 
hotel is but a short distance from the great 
square of St. Mark, where we spend con- 
siderable time when tired of riding in a 
gondola, tfhich we hire at a trifling sum 
per day. Some of these boats are very 
gaily trimmed with colored bunting and 
flags ; and we saw here, attached to one, the 
only American stars and stripes we have 
seen since leaving New York. (The boat 
was being used by an American traveler) 
Certainly never was there anything more 
charming than gliding over the canals of 
Venice, lined as they are with magnificent 
buildings, residences and places of business, 
some so narrow that the sun can never pen 
etrate the lofty houses on either side, while 
the sound of wheels and horses' hv 
never known. Whilst othsr Italian cities 
have each ten or a dozen prominent struc 
tures on which their claim to architectur 
fame is based, Venice numbers her sped 
mens by hundreds, and the home of the 
simple ci.izen is often as artistic as the pal- 
ace of the nobility. There are more than 



ONE HUNDRED CHURCHES 

profusely ornamented with marble, por- 
phyry, alabaster, agate, jasper, mosaics, 
paintings and sculpture, many more re- 
markable for richness than good taste. 
The reader should not get the impression 
that, there is no way of travel in the city 
but by water, as there are many streets - 
innumerable lanes they appear to be — that 
traverse the islands, which are connected 
into a city by 367 bridges. The residents 
use the streets for travel, but all transporta- 
tion is over the canals by gondolas, some of 
which are used as floating shops. The 
square of St. Mark is the only open space 
of any magnitude, and with the piazetta 
leading to it, forms the state entrance to it 
from the sea. On one side is the old Palace 
of the D jges ; on the other, the Mint and 
Library of St. Mark. On one end stand 
two magnificent granite columns, each of a 
single block, one bearing the statue of St. 
Theodore and the other crowned with the 
winged lion of St. Mark — the square's 
principal attraction. The square is sur- 
rounded also by — 

MAGNIFICENT EDIFICES 

fronted with Moorish arcades, and occupied 
in their lower stories by shops and coffee 
houses. Here, we must not forget the pig- 
eons of St. Mark, which are fed regularly 
every day at 2 o'clock. They are allowed 
to go and come as they please, and any 
person found ill-treating them is at 
once arrested by the police. The 
women who feed them are covered 
with the birds, as they light upon 
every possible place where they can 
fasten their claws to their garments. The 
square is the only promenade of the city, 
and is crowded evenings with all classes of 
people listening to the splendid music of a 
band of one hundred musicians. There the 
coffee houses are crowded and fash- 
ionable life in Venice is fully witnessed. 
The picturesque Cathedral, or 



DUOMO OF ST. MARK, 

is Greek in shape and purely Byzantine in 
style. Nearly six hundred pillars support 
the decorations inside and outside of the 
building ; they are of marble brought from 
Greece. The finishings are in the Italian 
Gothic style of the fifteenth century. In 
the lower part of the front are five arched 
doorways, each adorned witn a double row 
of columns ; over these arches in the gallery 
of marble stand some bronze horses, always 
shown as " the only horses in Venice " In 
the outer walls are tablets of ancient sculp- 
ture with curious representations. Five 
large Mosaics are over the doorway ; one 
represents the body of St. Mark being re- 
moved from the tomb at Alexandria ; the 
Last Judgment next ; Taking down from 
the cross, the Resurrection and the Ascen- 
sion, the others. The vaulting and many 
portions of the wall, are covered with rich 
marbles and mosaics ; the columns are of 
vera-antique and porphyry ; the pavement 
is composed of small pieces of white and 
colored marble, agate, and jasper, beati fully 
arranged. Over the center door of the 
church is a mosaic representing St. Mark in 
pontifical robes ; opposite the crucifixion. 
Near these, the four, Evangelist, the 
Resurrection of Lazarus, and the Annun- 
ciation. There are several chapels. The 
Zeus chapel has a very ancient bas-relief of 
Christ surrounded by the twelve Apostles. 
The great arch of the Nave is encrusted 
with gold and marble Mosaics in five di- 
visions, the subjects taken from the 
Apocalypse. In the middle is Christ sur- 
rounded by seven candlesticks The vault 
of the vestibule, which is in line with this 
arch, is equally full of Mosaics in five 
compartments. In this part is a porphyry 
holy water basin, the base of which is an 
altar carved with dolphins and tridents, 
surmounted by another bas-relief of child- 
ren. To the right of this is 



THE BAPTISTRY, 

ornamented with Mosaics and carvings ex- 
ecuted about 1360. The high altar con- 
taining the body of St. Mark, the leadiDg 
feature of the church, stands under a canopy 
on four pillars of Greek marble carved with 
various subjects of sacred history. Here 
we see two ancient paintings ; the first in 
oil on wood, in fourteen divisions, relating 
to the life of Christ ; the second altar 
piece, called the Palo d'oro, is a Byzantino 
enamel on gold and silver plating, set off 
by chased work, pearls, cameos and other 
precious stones. Behind the high altar, is 
another altar resting on clear spiral ala- 
baster pillars, with bas-relief3 in marble 
and gilt bronze. The Sacristy is entered 
by a door at the side of the altar ; the door 
is a remarkable work of carving, the maker 
it is said was twenty years executing it. 
The inside is richly adorned with Moasic 
and inlaid work. In a chapel not now 
used, are shown 

THE TREASURES 

of St. Mark. They are an assortment of 
the most esteemed relics. We are shown 
peices of the " true " cross, with a nail, the 
sponge, and the reed used at the Cruci- 
fixion ; the knife which cut the bread at the 
Lord's supper ; the thigh bone of St. John 
the Baptist, and various other relics of that 
patron saint ; a chiir called St. Mark's, 
said to have been used by him, which 
looks like a very ancient Episcopal chair. 
All the Doges were buried in St. Mark's 
and spent millions of money ornamenting 
the church and in building expensive 
tombs for themselves. A grand view of 
the whole church is obtained from the 
galleries, a much closer sight of the gild- 
ing and Mosaics with which it is so profusely 
decorated Ckse to the church is the 

PALACE OK THE DOGES, 

the church having formerly been its chapel. 
The palace is more ancient than the church, 



dating from 814 I walked through it 
with its giant stairs and great gorgeous 
halls and chambers, the ceilings of which 
are elaborately covered with pictures by 
Titian and Paul Veronese. We left all thi a 
beauty to go into the dark, dismal dungeons 
beneath, where in cells six feet square the 
prisoners of state spent years of agony and 
despair ; thence to the Bridge of Sighs with 
its grated windows looking out upon the 
canal. Criminals were conveyed across 
this bridge to hear their sentence, and from 
there led to their execution ; from this it 
derives its melancholy but appropriate ' 
name. A look over the Pisani palace, 
formerly belonging to a wealthy Venetian 
family was interesting. The rooms were 
elegant, many of them hung with rich 
satin damask and profusely ornamented 
with handsome paintings and statuary. 
Here were sofas and pillows covered with 
most costly lace, and bed coverings simil- 
arly ornamented. One morning we visited 

SEVERAL CHURCHES J 

first, St. George Maggiore, to view 
forty -eight beautiful carvid stalls in the 
choir by a Fit mish artist, iliustratiDg scenes 
in the life of St. Bernard. This wood 
carving is fully equal to that done in 
marble ; second, the church " Santa Maria 
Salute " having a richly adorned high 
altar, and one hundred and twenty-five 
elegant statues. The church has also very 
fine paintings by Titian, one, the Descent 
of the Holy Ghost, a wonderful produc- 
tion ; also the Evangelists and Doctors of 
the church, Titian himself representing the 
dgure of St. Matthew. The altar is a 
magnificent piece of sculpture, it represents 
the Virgin and child, St. Mark on one side 
and St. Justinian on the other ; also an 
allegorical figure of Venice kneeling to an 
angel who is driving away a figure of the 
plague. On each side of the altar are 
flags and other ornaments ; third, the 
(-church " Santa Maria de Fra^," in which 



is the tomb of Titian. There i3 a missive 
basement, on which rises a canopy decor- 
ated in the corinthian style, under which is a 
statue of Titian seated, and crowned with 
laurel, one hand resting on a book which a 
Genius holds before him, while with the 
other, he lifts the veil of Nature ; there 
are statues on either, side representing 
painting, wood carving, architecture and 
sculpture, and on the basement four others 
holding tablets bearing inscriptions to his 
memory. Opposite to this is a monument 
erected to Oanova, the design a duplicate 
of one executed by himself for the Arch- 
duchess Christine at Vienna, described by 
us in a letter from Vienna ; its beauty is 
only rivalled by the original design. The 
most conspicuous monument in this church 
is that erected to the Doge Pesaro, in 1659. 
Moors and Negroes in black marble, robed 
in white, support it ; the Doge sits in the 
centre. The tomb of Dcge Tron, built in 
1472, is another wonderful monument. It 
is composed of six stones ornamented by 19 
full length figures. It is 50 feet wide and 
70 feet high. There are several Doge 
monuments of equal wonder in their exten- 
sive ornamentation. In the midst of the 
church is a choir with 150 wood stalls 
superbly inlaid with marbles and costly 
stones. The cloister around the choir is 
adorned with many statues and bas-reliefs. 
We passed several hours in the 

ACADEMY OF EINE ARTS, 

and were charmed with Titian's great paint- 
ings there. His " Assumption of the Vir- 
gin " is exceedingly beautiful, especially in 
coloring, arrangement of drapery, illustra- 
tion of character and magnifl-ent attitudes. 
He is doubtless the greatest painter that 
; ever lived. There are many schools of 
paintings shown, and lovers of fine arts 
can spend hours here very pleasantly. 
Our last day in Venice found us 
in a gondola, being rowed out to the island 



of San Lazzaro, to the south of Venice, to 
visit 

A CONVENT 

of the Armenians who bought the island 
and settled there in the year 1717. We 
were conducted through the convent by a 
priest who spoke fair English. He showed 
us the chapels, libraries, cloisters and 
printing office, also the room in the library 
where Lord Byron studied. Byron, he 
said, spent much time in study there, and 
we viewed his portrait and his autograph in 
English and Armenian. We were shown 
the refectory, a very neat, clean appearing 
room. It has a pulpit in which one of the 
Monks reads aloud scriptural lessons, while 
the others are at their meals. The gardens 
are filled with vines and fruits and have a 
wine press, and the flowers are something 
elegant. Then, too, the dairy and the cow 
houses, where we saw a herd of as beauti- 
ful animals as a man ever looked upon. 
Quite a revenue is obtained from the sale 
i of milk in Venice. We returned to St. 
Mark's square to ascend the 

TALL CAMPANILE TOWER 

to take a last look over the picture of won- 
derful beauty to be seen from its summit. 
The eye views a city planted in the sea, and 
all around islands covered with other small 
villages. So high is the tower that we can 
trace only a few of the streets but the great 
canal and many of the smaller ones are 
seen alive with gondolas and other boats 
moving through them. St. Marks is alive 
with people and the music of its band is 
wafted in sweet strains on every breeze. 
We parted from the scene reluctantly and 
bidding adieu to the magnificent view of the 
Adriatic and its distant mountains, we were 
soon at our hotel for a needed night's rest. 
As we were retiring a gondola filled with 
singers halted under our window and with 
mandolins and voices drove dull care away 
as we passed into the arms of Morpheus. 



Italy and Switzerland 






In Verona, the Home of the Capulets— 
Milan and its beautiful Cathedral— The 
Lakes of Northern Italy and Switzerland— 
An European Republic. 



(No. 18,) 



The morning eun found us on our way 
to Milan. Padua is reached ; then we 
pass through highly cultivated lands, love- ' 
ly valleys and beautiful mountain scenery. 
In the fields we see the farmers using oxen 
and the ancieDt wooden plow to turn over 
the meadows which are filled with the pre- 
vailing red flower called in Palestine the 
Hose of Sharon. The railway soon brings 
us to a series of valleys with large streams 
of water aiid to Vicenz*, where the rivers 
are crossed by several bridges. It is a 
manufacturing town in silks, woolens and 
leather goods. The hills around the town 
are covered with villas, which look very 
charming, overlooking the great Plain of 
Lombaidy. We steam on to Vwrona, an 
old looking city, built on the sides and at 
the bottom of a theatre of hills at the foot 
of the Tyrol Alps Here is shown the— 

TOMB OF JULIET, 

a character in one of Shakespeare's plays ; 
also, the ruins of an old ampitheatre, which 
seated 26,000 persons. Its old arches are 
now used as shops, but the old walls attract 
great attention. The old house of the Cap- 
ulets, where Juliet talked to her lover from 
a balcony overl oking the garden, is now 
uwl ag an inn. As our train moves on 



we pass through a succession of gardens, 
vineyards and fields of grain, and for a 
long distance are overlooking the Lake of 
Garda with its beautiful surroundings. 
The lake is very nearly enclosed by the 
Alps, which form a mountain wall around 
i% so soften its climate that its grapes and 
fruits are easily ripened. Some of the best 
'wines in Italy are produced here. We are 
passing many country seats, very beauti- 
fully situated, and as we near — 

MILAN, 

pass into a long line of gardens that sur- 
pass anything we have seen in Italy, and 
are soon inside the walls to find the most 
modern city we visited in Italy. It 
has a population of half a million people, 
and is a great business place. There are 
elegant buildings and its general appear- 
ance is very like our American cities. 
After a general survey of the city by tram- 
ways, which run in every direction, we 
gave attention to its magnificent — 

DUOMO OR CATHEDRAL. 

Its outward appearance surpasses in beauty 
anything we have seen in architecture. It 
astonishes and enchants the beholder. Its 
forest of pinnacles, its wilderness of tracery, 



delicately marked against the gray sky, 
I: e impression sinks deeper and deeper 
i: to the mind— wonderful ! wonderful I 
vie of architecture, which is entirely 
o -:>tbic, except the front, is universally ad- 
l.dtted to be of exquisite beauty. It is con- 
tracted entirely of white marble and is in 
i rm a Latin cross, with five naves and 
five entrances. The naves are separated 
\ v 52 fluted pillars of marble, 72 feet high ; 
t iese are of different designs and are adorn- 
ci with eight statues on top surrounded by 
a large quantity of arabesques. The inte- 
rior of the cupola has 60 statues and " basso- 
relievos." Tne record says almost three 
thousand statues decorate the interior and 
exterior of the cathedral. The interior is 
very imposing ; its double aisles, clustered 
piiiars, lofty arches, numberless niches 
filled with marble figures, gives it an ap- 
pearance singularly majestic. The high 
altar is situated between the clergy and the 
congregation, and immediately before the 
choir. What lovely music we heard here, 
* great number of solos and chants, by a 
choir of at least fifty voices In a chapel 
beneath the dome is a shrine in which are 
enclosed— 

THE REMAINS OF ST. CARLOS, 

an archbishop of Milan in the 16th century. 
Wejrisited it to find his body deposited in 
a very elegant shrine of gold and gilded 
silver. The corpse is arrayed in splendid 
robes in an inner caskbt, and seen through 
panes of rich crystal, resembling the finest 
glass. In his left hand is a golden staff 
full of precious stones, the head covered 
with a golden crown. The shrine is very 
costly, said to have been over half a mil- 
lion dollars. The church pavement is of 
checquered marble, very handsome, and 
the large stained-glass windows, some of 
which are very old, are very rich in color- 
ing. The visitor can take any position in 
the edifice and at once find something new 
to study; days and even weeks can be 



spent therein and yet new beauties wiil 
present themselves. We regard it more 
intertsting than St. Peter's in Rome be- 
cause of its greater variety of arches and 
clusters of pillars, and the great delicacy of 
its work. There are very — 

MANY MONUMENTS AND TOMBS, 

all very handsome and costly, and the nu- 
merous chapels are adorned with elegant 
paintings and statuary The Baptistry is 
a superb tabernacle of gilt bronze, adorned 
with figures of Christ and the twelve apos- 
tles. . We ascended to the roof and to the 
top of the highest tower, up a long fight of 
winding stairs, where a grand view of all 
the numerous pinnacles that adorn the 
building are clearly seen. We look down 
upon a forest of them and wonder how 
such a scene of beauty ever was conceived 
by its architect. We also have a full view 
of the city and all its surroundings and de- 
scend realizing that the beauties of Milan 
have not been over-estimated. We visited 
the church, " Delle Gracie," and saw 
Da Vinci's celebrated Last Supper. It 
has suffered dreadfully from damp, age and 
neglect, but it is still a wonderful painting. 
Several artists were making copies in all 
siz33 which are sold in all parts of the 
world. The great " La Seala " Opera House 
was closed, but we were admitted to view 
its great beauties, which are really grand. 
Its company of artists were singing in 
another theatre, where we enjoyed — 

THE ITALIAN OPERA 

and wonderful ballet for two evenings. 
One of the beautiful places is the Monu- 
mental Cemetery, where we see an impos- 
ing array of marble statuary. Many of 
the tombs have good-sizad photographs of 
the dead in them ; and in headstones they 
are frequently seen. There is a large cre- 
mation temple and columbarium, and 
much expense has been lavished upon the 
temple in decorations, in statuary, paint- 
ings and frescoes. Near the cemetery is an 



arena built in 1805 by the French It is a 
very larg9 circle without covering, with ten 
rows of seats which accomodate 30,000 
spectators. It was flooded during the past 
winter, giving the p eople 103 days of good 
skating— something unusuaTf or Italy. 

Near the arena is the " Fora Bonaparte," 
a public road laid out by Napoleon, and 
lined with trees on both sides as far as the 
eye can reach. At its entrance stands a 
noble marble triumphal arch second only in 
size to the Arc de l'Etoile in Paris. Fluted 
Corinthian pillars face each of its principal 
wiDgs. There are numerous reliefs, statues, 
etc. On the top are two bronze Victories, 
and in the middle a colossal bronze figure 
of Peace in a car drawn by six horses. Its 
cost is stated as half a million dollars. The 
palaces and picture galleries are loaded 
with— 

ARTISTIC PAINTINGS. 

Our eyes became tired in viewing the great 
masterpieces of Italy's noted painters. 
Music, painting and sculpture, is the life of 
Milan, and her people are just the ones to 
appreciate and en j y them. la a climate 
that is most healthy, where out-door life is 
a specialty, it is not strange that her women 
are noted for their beauty and refinement 
and love of the fine arts. It is a place of 
great wealth, families with an income of 
more than $25,000 are reckoned by the 
hundreds. Its manufactures are si.ks of 
all kinds, embroideries, artificial flowers, 
elegant jewelry, and all the common arts. 
The country around is rich in productions, 
that go to make uj, a great business for the 
city, and we found hospitality a prevailing 
feature. "We bad passed several pleasant 
days at Milan and left, the city with regret 
for— 

THK ITALIAN LAKES. 

It is abt ut an hour's ride by rail to 
Como, passing M<>iz», where is a cathedral 
in which is k*pt the famous Iron Crown of 
L -mbardy, vh^t hai graced the heads of 



many Eur. p« an monarchs. It is a band of 
gold lined with a thin itrip of iron, said to 
have been made from a nail of the true 
cross brought from Palestine by the Em- 
press Helena. The gold band is adorned 
with precious stones. The approach to 
Como is exceedingly picturesque and moun- 
tainous. The situation is lovely, and it 
boasts the ruins of an old castle of feudal 
times which stands on a hill or pinnacle 
overhanging the town. We leave the train 
by stage for the steamer lying at the dock 
of Como. We are soon seated in a most 
favorable position, 'drinking in,'' as it 
were, the charms of the locality. We re- 
call that Bulwer has made the lake famous 
and familiar to every one by his elaborate 
description of it in the play of the " Lady 
of Lyons." On every side we behold 
pleasant landscapes surrounded by beauti- 
fully outlined mountains and luxurious 
vegetation. Around the shores rise heights 
covered with vines, olive groves and chest- 
nut woods which shine in the golden sun- 
light. Our steamer is in motion, and we 
find the— 

CHIEF CHARM OF THE SCENERY 

is given to thw lake by the peculiarity that 
it cuts in a long, narrow line the strata-like 
lower Alps and deep into the interior of the 
Alps, and that the mountains, whose ele- 
vations vary between four and eight thous- 
and feet, with their gold-gleaming, yellow- 
ish-brown ridges and summits, stand not 
too far apart, although in a somewhat misty 
outline ; and the rich vegetation represents 
various z >nes in picturesque terraces up to 
the top. The upper terraces are used by 
the shepherds, the middle in cherry orch- 
ards and vegetable gardens, atd the lower 
slopes and hills, down to the shore, are cov- 
ered with fruit trees, mulberry trees, grape 
vines and olive trees. Iu the midst of this 
landscape are villas of the whitest hue. 
There are many of them, and the cloudless 
sky and brilliant sun brings out the land- 



scape beauty in all its grandeur. Our j 
steamer Ekirts first to one side and then to i 
the other of the lake, making stops at the 
numerous landings, thus changing the vari- 
ety of the scenery as we sail in and out of 
the various nooks and curves with which 
the lake abounds. We are soon at - 

BELLAGIO, 

a most charming location on the lake, upon 
a point of land that juts into the water^ 
forming two arms to the lake, very like 
Bluff Point on our own lovely Keaka. 
Here we leave the steamer for a few days 
rest from our journeyings, and find a pleas- 
ant home in a beautiful hotel that faces the 
waters so as to have a charming view of its 
surroundings. We find the lake houses 
and villas crowded with guests from all 
parte of Europe and a few from America. 
The locality is the great resort of the newly 
married, and where the dolce far niente 
feeling prevails to perfection. It is a grand 
place to rest, and the bright sunshine, 
green mountain scenery, lake boat-riding in 
the antique gondolas, which everywhere 
abound on the lake, shady nooks, and 
bowers perfumed with the sweetest flowers 
overhanging cozy seats, afford the lake 
tourists every opportunity desired. We 
climbed the mountain steeps for exercise 
and for scenic views ; glided over the lake 
waters seated under the big hoops of the 
gondolas, and closed cur visit on the lake 
by paying our respects to the — 

VILLA CARLOTTA, 

owned by Duke of Sachsen-Meiningen of 
Germany. We landed on marbie steps 
built into the lake, and ascended two other 
flights with vines covering the balustrades . 
one flight completely covered with a luxu- 
riant passion vine, which was one mass of 
flowers. We entered a magnificent vesti- 
bule in which is a most elegant marble 
frieze covered with bas reliefs representing 
the triumphant entrance of Alexander the 
Great into Babylon, In the middle of the 



frieze stands Alexander upright on his tri- 
umphal car, his light hand on his sceptre, 
the left on the front part of the car. He 
turns his head and raises his eyes, the God- 
dess of Victory holding the reins with both 
hands. Behind Alexander, walk two 
armour-bearers, and two men who lead his 
wild war horse, Bucephalus. Then come 
warriors on foot, one leading an elephant 
laden with booty. Two figures of men are 
under a palm tree at the end of the relief. 
To the left, in the other division, the con- 
quered foes of Alexander march. Before 
the procession the Goddess of Peace, with a 
cornucopia on her arm, offers the conqueror 
an olive branch, women strew flowers on 
the way, incense altars are raised, while 
musicians walk before two Babylonian 
heralds blowing horns. Horses, a lion and 
a tiger in chains are being led forward as 
presents for the Macedonian king. This 
frieze was made for an arch at Milan, but 
afterwards was bought for this lovely villa, 
which contains also many beautiful statues 
by Canova, among them the original plaster | 
cast of his representing Magdalene and a j 
lovely Armor and Psyche. There is another j 
frieze which has a large number of figures, 
representing a festival of Bacchus; also 
elegant paintings from the studios of Italy's 
greatest artists. 

THE GARDEN, 

which is very large, is ascended by four 
step-shaped terraces ; it is said to be the 
most magnificently carried out park in 
gardening on the Lake of Como; what 
gigantic magnolias do we see ; one 
has a diameter cf five feet and 
has attained a height of over one hun- 
dred feet ; and the large myrtle and Japa- 
nese trees, cameiias, Chinese olive trees, 
New Holland gum trees, beautiful conifer- 
ous trees from Asia Minor,Mimosas, palms, 
tea bushes, aloes, bananas, beautiful alleys 
of laurel mixed with roses, lemon and or- 
ange groves, tendril plants winding round 



high stems, and banks of roses and every 
other flower in the long catalogue of a 
beautiful flora. As we departed from 
this most elegant home, most glorious views 
up and down the lake were visible, and we 
could not but be thankful that there were 
those who are blessed with wealth, who 
turn it into such beautibul scenery and 
permit those not so favored to look up- 
on and eLJoy it with them. It is a 

LOVELY MOUNTAIN RIDE FROM 

Cadenabbia opposite Bellagio to Porlezza, 
on Lake Lugano. We ride through a 
shady avenue, the lake below us, and gar- 
dens, fruit groves, villas, and hotels above 
us, tho avenue lined with shops filled with 
ornamental carvings in olive wood and 
marbles, also jewelry in every form, to 
Menaggio. Here we take a mountain nar- 
row gauge road and gradually climb the 
mountain side, through a pass that brings 
us amid romantic scenery, small villages, 
and vine clad hilis to Porlezza, where we 
take a boat ride over the handsome Lake 
Lugano to the town Lugano, most charm- 
ingly situated on the borders of the lake of 
the same in Switzerland. The air of 

SWITZERLAND. 

seemed congenial as we were in a republic, \ 
and we tarry here several days. We found 
the hotel "Splendide," a most hospitable 
home and situated in just the place to com- 
ujund a perfect view of the lake and its lofty 
mountain scenery. Lugano is the largest 
town on Lake Lugano, with quite an Ital- 
ian climate. It is surrounded by liigfc 
mountains whose peaks rise high toward* 
the beautiful blue sky that forms the arch 
of heaven above them The village liet 
way down between the mountains on the 
lake, which is narrow and deep, and beau- 
tifully placed between the mountain seen 
ery. .Numerous villages and country seats 
are scattered along the had*- " the lake, 



and the lower hills are covered with vine- 
yards and gardens, which contrast beauti- 
fully with the dark foliage of the chesnut 
and walnut trees, which are numerous. A 
broad quay planted with trees, is located 
along the bank of the lake, wnich reveal to 
the tourist every evening the fashion and 
beauty of the people who frequent it. The 
interior of the town is full of arcades with 
work shops in the open air, the whole pre- 
senting a busy hum of industry in the man- 
ufacture of the many articles which please 
the eye and are sold as souvenirs of Switz- 
erland's skill in combining silver, gold, 
stones and woods into real beauties of art 
and usefulnets. Eight high mountains are 
seen from the quay and excursions are com- 
mon to most of them. We found our way 
to the top of 

MOUNT ST. SALVADOR 

via & funicular railway, a Leight of one 
thousand feet, where a broad and charm- 
ing view of the lake was obtained. It cov- 
ered all the arms of Lake Lugano, the 
mountains and their wooded el ->pes, and 
the gardens and villas which everywhere 
are seen on the foot slopes of the mountains. 
Tnere is a chapel on the highest point of 
tnid mountain, also a good hotel, where, in 
the heated term dwell those who seek 
mountain air and retirement. Mount 
G^ueroso, which also rises from the shores 
of Lake Lugano is nearly twice the height 
of Salvador. Mount Caprino is the sum- 
mer evening resort of tne natives, who 
drink wine in little grottoes on the side of 
the hill. Many of the villas of the nobil- 
ity of a past generation are now prosperous 
hoiets We enjoyed Lugano also because 
of its pure air, lovely scenery and brilliant 
suuthiue ; then, its people appeared like 
our home people, all busy and industrious, 
with none of the dirt and squalor so largely 
seen in Italian towns At one time there 
were several monasteries in Lugano, but 
now there are but two. Iu an old church, 



near one of tnese, are some beautiful frescoes 
by Luini. They represent the Passion of 
Christ and contain beveral hundred figures, 
arranged in two rows. In the upper row 
stand three crosses, at the foot Roman 
warriors, groups of holy women and St 
Junn, and the executioners casting lots for 
the garments. Above, in smaller figures, 
are Cfirist on the Mount of Chives, Christ 
taken prisoner, the scourging, the cross- 
bearmg, the entombment and the ascen- 
sion ; two saints are in full figure betwten 
the arches below. Opposite tu ihe P»ss>ion 
is tne Last Supper, which is also very cu- 
rious in the style of the figures ; ttie whole 
is old fashioned its entirely different from 
any we have seen elsewhere. 

OVER THE ALPS 

we go, reluctlantly leaving Lugano. The 
road gradually ascends the mountains by 
various windings in valleys and through 
tunnels past Taverne, a pretty mountain 
town, in full view of Mount Camoghs, 
upon which snow is seen, and through the 
Valley of the Agno to enter the tunnel 
that introduces us to a long, downward 
grade around the foot of Mount Cenere. 
Here, for miles, we have every moment a 
grand view of the Tessin valley, spread out 
iike a map Delow us, and soon reach Bel- 
linzona, a town that completely blocks the 
valley. We see on all sides high moun- 
tain cliffs, upon them castles and fortresses ; 
the Swiss government keeping the place 
well fortified, as it is the key to the route 
from Lombardy to .Northern Switzerland 
ard Germany. The railway continues its 
windings through the Tessin valley, cross- 
ing first to one side then to the other, and 
we are viewing smiling, sunny landscapes, 
where the vine and the fig tree flourish. 
Cascades and bridal-veil waterfalls are 
fl >wing down the mountain sides, spread- 
ing over the valleys and creating a green 
verdure that is pleasing in the sunlight. 
At Biasca we enter the mountain fastnesses, 



rattle through tunnels, pass gorges, view 
grand cascades, and at Lavargo see vine- 
yards and many mulberry trees. Passing 
Faido, we behold increased richness of 
vegetation and foliage, and magnificent 
groves of chestnut trees that command es- 
pecial admiration. We are still winding 
our way up the valley of the river Tessin, 
or Ticino, to Ariolo. What an array of 
wonderful bridges, circular tunnels and 
bewildering succession of wild bits of scen- 
ery, with feathery, snow-white cascades, 
leaping from the summits of lofty cliffs, or 
bursting forth from some cranny in their 
sides, and falling hundreds of feet through 
the air ; brawling glacial torrents, hurry- 
ing down over beds of boulders, eager to 
reach the distant sea ; eyries, where appar- 
ently inaccessible chalets are perched ; fan- 
tastic rocks, seamed and split by long con- 
vulsions of nature ; endless battlements 
afad walls " rock-ribbed and ancient as the 
sun ;" now leaping a chasm, now skirting 
a precipice, and we reach Ariolo. Here 
we enter — 

THE GREAT TUNNEL 

which took 3,000 workmen eight years to 
bore, at a cost of $12,000,000. In passing 
through it the train is. a thousand feet di- 
rectly under the village of Andermatt, and 
a mountain lake is over three thousand 
feet above the tunnel. It is a double-track 
tunnel, takes twenty minutes to pass it, 
and we are at Goeschenen on the other 
side of the mountain. We now are at 
the headwaters of the Eeuss river and 
go down from our elevated station to Flu- 
elen, the head of navigation on one of 
the branches of Lake Lucerne. We came 
out of the long tunnel into a narrow gorge 
and are again spinning along giddy preci- 
pices, and over bridges from which we 
look down upon ravines, tree tops and 
scattered dwellings far below. Eighteen 
tunnels are passed through in the descent 
and we are at Altdorf, a typical Swiss 
town, which tradition names as the spot 



wherj the famous apple scene between Tell 
and Gessler transpired. As we look back 
up the long grade we have descended our 
eyes fall Upon a dozen or more mountain 
glaciers white with snow, glistening like 
silver in the sunlight. We wheel swiftly 
along the shore of a branch of Lake 
Lucerne to Brunnen, cross a neck of 
land that connects the lake with Lake of 
Zug and are at Imncensee, where the Swiss 
say the tryant Gessler was laid low by the 
unerring arrow of 

THE PATRIOT TELL. 

We are soon at R jthkreus, where streams 
of travel unite from various tributary rail- 
ways, and in a few minutes are viewing 
Luzerne, situate in the heart of Switzer- 
land, and within easy reach of all that is 
grandest in the scenery of the Alps. It is 
beautifully placed deep down in the lake 
surroundings, its substantial and thrifty 
business houses, elegant homes and splen- 
did hotels, marking its people as residents 
of a republic ; and its old flags in its 
Rithaus and in the Franciscan church 
bear witness to the fidelity with which the 
burghers supported their compatriots in 
the wars that secured Switzerland her 
independence, a. l. u. 



ANTHONY L UNDERHILL. 



UNDERHILL.- -At Los Angeles. Cala., Sunday 
night. March 9th, Anthony Lispenard Under- 
hill, in the 72d year of his age. 

Monday morning word was received 
in Bath of the announcement above. 
It was a great shock to his family and 
friends, as he had departed from Bath 
February 19th for Southern California, 
to be gone on a pleasure trip of about 
three months. He went west by easy 
stages, remaining in New Orleans 
about a week, and stopping at dif- 
ferent points between there and Los 
Angeles, which he reached last Thurs- 
day. Letters written after his arrival 
there indicate that he was feeling at 
the time as well as when he left Bath. 

Anthony L. Underhill, the oldest 
son of Charles Underhill and Portia 
Maria Brooks, was born in the town of 
Veteran, Chemung county, N.Y., May 
9th, 1830. He was a descendant of the 
sixth generation of Captain John 
Underhill, the famous Indian fighter 
in the Pequot and Collmial wars, 
which took place in Massachusetts, 
Rhode Island and Connecticut during 
the seventeenth century. 

At an early age ne accompanied his 
father to Missouri, where his uncle, 
Henry Underhill, was engaged in 
trading with the Indians. He passed 
through the west when Chicago was a 
hamlet in a vast marsh, approachable 
only over corduroy roads. In crossing 
the river they came in contact with 
Joseph Smith, who was leading his 
Mormon forces from Nauvoo, Illinois, 
further west. Many were the incidents 
related by him of personal experiences 
with Indian braves who came to the 
store to trade and made his father's 
home their stopping place at night. 



He returned east with his parents, 
who located at Carbondale, Pa., and 
soon after he started for Bath to enter 
the employ of his cousin, the late Rob- 
ert L. Underhill, and arrived here on 
St. Patrick's day in the year 1845. He 
was apprenticed until he was 21 years 
of age, and during that time learned 
the art of bookbinding, and became 
proficient as a printer, the firm of R. 
L. Underhill & Company at that time 
manufacturing and printing various 
kinds of books. 

His early education was largely re- 
ceived from his mother, to whom he 
was indebted for many traits of char- 
acter which proved bulwarks to him 
in later life. When he left home he 
promised her that he would never 
commit any act of which he could not 
freely tell her, and this promise was 
faithfully kept by him throughout his 
life, preserving in him* a purity of 
mind and sense of honor which he 
ever endeavored to communicate to 
and inculcate in his. descendants. 

His meager educational advantages 
were supplemented by his constant 
seeking after enlightenment and the 
books of all kinds on the shelves of 
the bookstore furnished him, after 
business hours, with opportunities for 
gaining knowledge and development 
of the mind ; these habits of study 
and research were pursued throughout 
his life, resulting in his becoming a 
well-informed%nd broad-minded man. 
At that time booM-stores sold all the 
musical merchandise of the day. ami 
his love for music led him to learn to 
play every kind of in strnment afforded 
by the genius of the times. He 
always regretted his lack of early 
educational training, and afforded 
his children every possible ad- 
vantage of this character of which 
he had been deprived. 

May '3d. 1851, he was united in mar- 



riage to Charlotte, daughter of James 
McBeath, by Rev. David Nutton. 
They were married at Bath in the 
morning, and traveled to Dansville 
that day, where he had opened a book- 
bindery a short time previously. 

In 1854 he removed to Addison, 
where he published "The Voice of 
the Nation," the organ of the Know- 
Nothing party, which, when that par- 
ty swept the county, he removed to 
Bath, as the Know-Nothings had 
elected the entire county ticket, and 
wished an organ at the county seat. 
He changed the name of the paper to 
the "Steuben American," which he 
published from January, 1856, until 
May, 1857, when the destruction by 
fire of the office of the " Steuben 
Farmers' Advocate" induced him 
to sell his plant to Perry S. Donahe. 
who began to issue the "Steuben 
Farmers' Advocate" at once, Mr. 
Underbill acting as manager. He con- 
tinued in this capacity until August, 
1860, when he became the proprietor, 
and proclaimed his support of Stephen 
A. Douglass. His life since has been 
identified with this paper, which he 
saw grow from a struggling existence 
to one of the best equipped country 
newspapers in the state. In addition, 
he was the publisher of the "Ontario 
Repository and Messenger," at Canan- ■ 
daigua (owing to the death of his son, 
William), from April, 1883, to Decern- * 
ber, 1885 ; also one of the directors of 

the "Wyoming County Times," at 
Warsaw, and one of the publishers of 
the "Corning Daily Democrat," at 
Corning, since September, 1899. 

Under his guidance and through his 
energy the Advocate, although the 
organ of a minority party, obtained 
an entrance into more homes in Steu- 
ben than ever attained by any other 
publication. He had rare ability in 



discerning what was news from the 
viewpoint of the average reader, and 
had that peculiar faculty of observa- 
tion and description which is possess- 
ed by tne born newspaper man. No 
better illustration of this can be cited 
than his descriptive letters of Ameri- 
can and Foreign travel which ^ T ere 
published in the Advocate in 1891 
and 1895. 

For nearly ten years he had been a 
partner in the grocery business of 
Richard R. Flynn & Co., conducted 
by the junior partner in the Advo- 
cate block. 

He was a member of the Democratic 
party from principle, and believed in 
its tenets as taught by the founders. 
From 1860 to 1880 he served many 
years as chairman of the Steuben 
County Democratic committee, and 
was generally in attendance at the 
i councils of the party. He was chos- 
|| en a presidential elector for Cleve- 
i land and Hendricks in 1884 and had 
the honor, as one of the tellers of the 
Electoral College, to announce offi- 
cially that the Empire State had cast 
its thirty-six votes for the Democratic 
nominees. He was appointed post- 
master at Bath by President Cleve- 
land in 1886 and served four years to 
the satisfaction of the community. 

He was elected president of the vil- 
lage of Bath in March, 1891, for a term 
of one year. 

A month after his incumbency of 
the office, the Bath Board of Trade 
held its first annual dinner, at which 
President Underhill responded to the 
toast, "The Village of Bath." The 
address was replete with interesting 
historical facts, and of it the official 
book of the Bath Centennial, in the 
introduction, says: 

"In a speech delivered before the 
local Board of Trade, at its annual 
dinner, (April 6th, 1891), Mr. Anthony 
L. Underhill made the first public ap- 



peal to the citizens for a becoming; 
recognition of this important event in 
the history of the village. The seed 
thus sown was soon to bear fruit." 

A short extract from that speech is 
reproduced : 

"It was in 1845, on the morning of 
St. Patrick's Day, that I first looked 
upon our handsome park and its sur- 
roundings with the heavily wooded 
hills in the south as a background ; 
this was from the elevated porch of 
the old Clinton hotel, then standing 
upon the ground now occupied by the 
First National Bank building, with 
large and roomy stage barns to the 
west; on the opposite corner, now 
Perine's Excelsior, stood the old Eagle 
hotel, and on the ground now occu- 
pied by the Nichols House was a hotel 
kept by the late Perez Gilmore. In 
1845 the business portion of th^ village 
on Liberty street extended 01 y to in- 
clude the Davison block on the east 
side and to Scott's shoe store on the 
west side. The Rumsey mansion 
stood just north of the Davison block 
and Reuben Robie's residence stood 
where Tharp's shoe store now stands ; 
[ all the buildings at that time were 
wood, save two brick stores which 
stood on the site of the Davison block. 
In looking over the list of those in 
business forty-six years ago, I find but 
two now with us, John Abel and H. 
W. Perine, out of a list of forty-five 
then doing business in Bath. The 
sods of the valley, I believe, cover all 
the rest except Mr. S. D. Hunter who 
lives in the far West. Fleeting time 
has made almost a clean sweep of the 
business men who before our dav 
made Bath the scene of their homes 
and their money-making; they have 
left us legacies to improve upon and 
in some respects we have done so; 
they were prudent, economical and 
saving men, and left us examples of 
business life and character that we 
will all be the better to emulate." 

The two business men then men- 
tioned have since passed away, and 
exactly fifty seven years from the day 
of his coming to Bath, Anthony L. 
Underbill was laid to rest. 

He was raised to the sublime degree 
of Master Mason in Steuben Lodge, 



No. 112, F. & A. M., in j uly, 1859, and 
exalted in Bath Chapter, No. 95, R. A. 
M., October 17, 1860. He served sev- 
eral years as Master of the Blue Lodge 
and High Pries „ of the Chapter; also 
was District Deputy Grand Master for 
two years, and the representative of 
the Grand High Priest for this district. 
During his incumbency of these offices 
he assisted in instituting several lodges 
and chapters in this vicinity. He ever 
retained a warm interest in the "Mys- 
tic Tie," and was the oldest enrolled 
member of the Chapter and next to 
the oldest of the Blue Lodge at the 
time of his death. 

He was a communicant of Saint 
Thomas' church and a faithful attend- 
ant upon its services. He loved the 
church and enjoyed its ministrations. 
He was a member of the Vestry and 
took a warm interest in the work of 
the parish. 

His family circle was first broken by 
the death of his eldest son, William 
Howell, in April, 1883. He was again 

sorely bere /eu in January 1894 by 
the death lis beloved wife. 

He is survived by two daughters 
and three sons: Mrs. Frederick A 
(Emma) Maude ville of Rochester; Ed- 
win S., who has been associated with 
his father in the publication of the 
Advocate and Corning Daily Demo- 
crat; John, publisher of the Wyoming 
County Times of Warsaw, N. Y. ; .Miss 
Charlotte of Bath; Anthony L. Jr.. an 
instructor in the High School of Cedar 
Rapids, Iowa. 

Two sisters also survive: Mrs. Octa- 
via Field of Omaha, Neb., and Mrs. 
Portia Allen of Niagara Falls. Ont. 

At such a time as this the pen is in- 
deed feeble to voice the sentiments of 
the heart. It was as yesterday that 
he was with us; to-day he has gone to 
his final rest. 



The choice of a father is not given 
to us, but to none had Providence 
been more kind in this regard. For 
his children love, care and sympathy 
had always been his first thought, de- 
nying them nothing for their welfare 
and good. In every relation of life he 
proved himself in the highest and best 
sense a man; but especially in the 
home circle -was he ever watchful and 
solicitous. That his children should 
not be obliged to labor against disad- 
vantages which were his, was his con- 
stant endeavor, and no sacrifice was- 
too great for him that benefit might 
come to them. 

His pleasant smile, his genial, hap 
py manner, his kind word, will ever 
remain green in the memory of all who 
knew him, but in his own home will 
they be most greatly missed. To his 
family he was tender and loving; to 
his friends, loyal and true. The wort- 
is better and purer that he lived. 
The sense of loss is shared alike by 
I his family, friends and community in 
which he lived. Affectionate towards 
his family, devoted to his friends, 
pleasant and genial, simple and up- 
right— the memory of his virtues will 4 
serve as his eulogy more eloquently 
than any word of tongue or pen. | 

The remains are expected to reach 
Bath on Saturday, Mrs. Daniel B. j 
Curtis of Curtis, who has been spend- | 
ing the winter in Southern California, 
having kindly made arrangements for 
their shipment east. Notice of funer- 
al will be given hereafter. 



TRIBUTES FROM BRETHREN OF THE 
PRESS. 

Corning Journal. 
Mr. Underhill was the founder of 



the Steuben American newspaper, 
which he started at Bath in 1856 and 

conducted for a year and a half, or 

until ics sale to the proprietor bf the 
Steuben's Farmers' Advocate. In 
1860 he purchased the Advocate, 
which was an old .established news- 
paper and it had since remained in 
his possession and under his control, 
except that as years advanced he re- 
linquished a part of the burden to the 
care of his sons. Mr. Underhill was 
a thorough printer, and proud of the 
craft. From the outset of his owner- 
ship of the Advocate, he devoted his 
entire time and attention to the affairs 

of the office, and when in Bath he 
could invariably be found at his office, 
engrossed in work. It was his pride 
that he could do anything in the office 
that might be required of anv of his 
employes ; and he could do it much 
better, too, than the average printer. 
He was a man of intense and unwear- 
ied industry, and by his practical 
knowledge of the newspaper business 
in all its details, by his keen intel- 
ligence, and by his sobriety and level- 
head he made the Advocate property 
to be of much value, and the news- 
paper itself to be widely circulated 
and a very influential organ of pub- 
lic opinion. Mr. Underhill thus pos- 
sessed unusual business capacity, and 
he became the most successful news- 
paper publisher in this section of the 
state. He was a writer of much 
force, and was particularly happy in 
the descriptive faculty. He had trav- 
eled several times across the contin- 
ent, and bad oeen once or twice in 
Europe, and the letters he wrote for 
the Advocate describing his journeys 
were of such marked interest that the 
publication of mauy of them was 
made iu book form for the pleasure 
of his friends and the public. Mr. 
Underbill was a man of high charac- 



/ 



ter and of unblemished integrity. He 
was a devout communicant of the 
Episcopal denomination, and in his 
daily life exemplified the faith tnat 
waH his He was pure of thought 
and speech, and in all his relations 
with his fellows was a tyDe of the 
Christian and the gentleman. As a 
citizen of Bath he was among the 
most enterprising and public-spirited, 
and none was morer respected. He 
was a true friend, with a kind and 
cheery greeting to the humblest, and 
with aid and assistance to the unfor- 
tunate or those in distress. He was 
deeply interested in the welfare of his 
home village, and no one, by active 
endeavor or upright example, contrib- 
uted more to its good fame or local 
influence. Anthony L. Underhill ever 
tried to be useful in his chosen 
sphere, and his ambition was amply 
realized, so that as he advanced in 
years it must have been very gratify- 
ing to him to know the strong hold 
he had on the hearts of the people 
where he lived. Tn his death the 
village of Bath and the County of 
Stenben loses one of its foremost 
citizens, and the editorial fraternity 
of rhe state one of its most valued 
and esteemed members. A good man 
has gone. The editor of the Journal, 
who had maintained with Mr. Un- 
derhill an unbroken friendship of over 
40 years' standing, profoundly laments 
his death, and extends to tho bereav- 
ed children his heartfelt sympathy in 
the loss to them of a thoughtful, lov- 
ing and devoted father. 



Addison Record. 

He was a man loved by all, and a 
friend to deserving and never refused 
to assist those in distress. During 
sixteen years of service in his em- 
ploy we found him every day with a 



smile and a pleasant word. His age 
was 72 years. He leaves two daugh- 
ters and three sons to mourn his loss. 
The body is expected to arrive in 
Bath tomorrow. 

Steuben Courier. 
In 1895 Mr. Underhill visited the 
Holy Land and wrote for oublication 
in the Advocate a most interesting 
series of letters descriptive of his 
travels. "My travels in the Holy 
Land. " he told the writer, "made 
a strong impression on me. As I 
walked and rode about amid the 
scenes of our Saviour's earthly minis- 
try, I was impressed with the power 
and reality of His life and teaching 
as never before, and became a Chris- 
tian in a new sense. " 
* * * 

Mr. Underhill led what might be 
called in these days a strenuous bus- 
iness life. He knew how to make a 
newspaper— knew all the intricacies 
of the printer's art— and he applied 
himself with all his might, and suc- 
ceeded because of his sagacity and dil- 
igence. He was a terse, vigorous 
writer, a strong advocate of whatever 
cause he championed. He wrought 
without sparing himself that he might 
surround his family with comfort 
and give his children the benefits of 
a higher education, which had been 
denied him and of which he had al- 
ways felt the need. 

™ In the home he was a kind, indul- 
gent husband and father, forgetful of 
himself, thoughtful onlv for the wel- 
fare of those who leaned upon him. 
In the community he was a useful, 
respected, honored citizen, and his 
death has cast a shadow of sorrow to 
very many hearts, not only in Bath, 
but thronghout the country, where 
his newspaper was a welcome weefcly 
visitor in many homes, and especially 
among the older generation. 



Hornellsyille Tribune. 
The announcement of the death of 
Mr. A. L. Underbill of Bath, in last 
evening's Tribune came in the nature 
of a shock, and produced a widespread 
feeling of sorrow throughout the 
entire community in which Mr. Un- 
derbill had many warm friends and 
acquaintances. For a great many 
Years he has been prominent in the 
affairs of the county, and a familiar 
figure in the state. He was a man 
thoroughly respected for his many 
high qualities of mind and character, 
for his industry, his genial personal- 
ity, and his general good fellowship. 
In business as in everything else, he 
was b- esssful, due to his intelli- 
gence, methodical carefulness ami 
good judgment. As a Democrat he 
was devoted to the cause of both 
party and country, a hard worker, a 
conscientious and wise adviser, a 
skillful leader and enthusiastic fol- 
lower. As a resident of his home 
community he was a kind friend. 
In his home circle he shone specially, 
having all the attributes that go to 
make the American home what it is. 
and there he will be missed more than 
elsewhere. Our deepest sympathies 
go out to the family in their sad 
and sudden affliction. 



Elmira Advertiser. 
The news of the death in Los 
Angeles, Oal. , of Anthony L. Under- 
bill, one of the proprietors of the 
Bath Advocate and of the Corning 
Democrat, brings with it a feeling 
of deep sorrow to all who knew Mr. 
Underbill and his manly worth. 
And there are few persons in this sec- 
tion of the state who did not. For 
more than half a century he had been 
identified with the newspaper busi- 
ness in Bath. His success where 
many another would have failed* and 



the esteem in which he was held, are 
fair measures of his worth as a busi- 
ness man and a citizen. He was of 
the old school of editors, but believed 
in progress, evidence of which has- 
been given his newspapers. Although 
72 years of age, he was active in all 
things concerning his business mat- 
ters, and 'was at his desk in the Ad- 
vocate office each day when in Bath. 
He was a vigorous writer, but at all 
times a fair opponent. He was kind- 
ly and generous. The friends he 
made were glad to be thus numbered. 
Mr. Underhill will be missed as a 
business man, as a charitable citizen 
and as a", conscientious ^. Christian. 
During his life he had afforded em- 
ployment to a large number of men 
and was counted as a fair, kind and 
equitable employer. Although per- 
foimed quietly, he was the author 
of many beneficent deeds, and Bath 
residents generally mourn his sudden 
demise. 



Dansville Advertiser. 
A warm friendship has existed be* 
tween Mr. Underhill and the writer 
since "the happy years of his residence 
in Dansville, "to use his own words 
in a private letter a year ago this 
month. His death comes to us like a 
that of an elder brother. Mr. Under- 
hill was one of the best and truest 
of friends and his life was filled with 
kind thoughts and helpful deeds. 
He will be widely missed and deeply 
mourned. Mr. Underhill was active 
and prominent in social, political and 
religious life. 



Hornellsville Times. 
By the death of Anthony L. Under- 
hill, in Califoruia last Saturday* 
Steuben County journalism loses one 
of its most; successful and prominent 
representatives. He combined fine 
executive ability and enterprises with 
genial personal qualities that made 
him the friend of all and one whose 
friendship was valuable and prized. 
His bereaved familv will have the 
sympathy of a very large circle of 
friends in their great loss, such a cir- 
cle as comes only to those who like 
him have been known for mauy years 
by the visits of the weekly newspaper 
to the homes and firesides of the peo- 
ple. 

Seneca Falls Reveille. 

In the death of Anthony L. Under- 
bill of the Bath Advocate countrv 
journalism has lost one of its most 
conscientious and respected represen- 
tatives. 

* * * 

He was a man of engaging personal 
qualities, a graceful writer and a 
painstaking, successful and honorable 
journalist. He was true to everv con- 
viction of right, fearless in denuncia- 
tion of wrong-doing, and an earnest 
advocate of the things that contribut- 
ed to the welfare of the community. 
In the broadest sense of the word he 
was a Democrat— earnest, active and 
influential in the community in 
which he lived— and his whole life 
was exemplary and above reproach. 
The unexpected intelligence of , his 
death brought grief to many hearts. 



Ontario County Times. 
Mr. Underhili was one of the best 
known and most successful newspaper 
men in the state, having been proprie- 
tor of the Advocate since 1860. ~ He 
was postmaster at Bath from 1886 to 



1890, and for years was active in the 
councils of the Democratic party, 
"•ollowing the death of his son, Wil- 
liam Underhili, he conducted the 
Repository-Messenger here for a few 
months, in 1885, as he related in an 
interesting letter written to the editor 
of this paper on""the occasion- of the 
50th year of its establishment His 
death wjjl be widely and sincerelv 
regretted, especially among the news- 
paper fraternity, for he was respected 
andTbeloved by all who knew bim. 



Cohocton Times. 
His death has caused widespread 
sorrow. Probably no man in Steuben 
County was better known or had a 
larger circle of personal friends than 
Mr. Underhili. 

* * * 

He was deeply interested in educa- 
tion, always earnest in the welfare 
| of the schools, and was active in 
: everything that he thought would be 
! for the good of the community. In 
politics he was always a staunch 
Democrat and for manv years h «s 
been a popular leader. His death is 
a loss that is far reaching and will be 
sincerely regretted not only in his 
own town, but throughout the coun- 
! try. 



Avoca Advance. 
Mr Underbill has always been 
prominent in the Democratic ranks 
of his town, county and state and a 
progressive business man. A man 
who will be missed from among those 
who have been associated with him 
during his active life. His life has 
been a noble one. leaving- behind him 
a record that his children, of whom 
there are five who survive him, may 
and will point with pride. The press 
of Steuben couuty will unite saying, 
"The light has been turned out from 



an active brain, a life of honor and 
uprightness has ended, peace go with 
him. ' ' 



Lima Recorder. 

Mr. Underhill, was one of the most 
successful publishers in this state. 
He always printed a live paper, and 
by his industrv and push, accumulat- 
ed a handsome property. 
* * * 

This news caused profound sorrow 
throughout that section, as well as to 
the senior editor of this paper, who 
had been his lifelong *riend. We 
were boys together, and have always 
known each other as tried and true 
friends. 



Bath Plaindealer. 
Mr. Underhill was a thoroughly in- 
dustrious man and one of the few who 
have made a success out of country 
newspaper business. He was very 
devoted to his family, and toiled in- 
cessantly and unselfishly gave his la- 
bors for their benefit, and they will 
sorely miss a kind and most indulgent 
parent. 



Rochester Herald. 
The newspaper fraternity will 
hear with regret that Anthony L. 
Underhill, the veteran editor of the 
Steuben Farmers' Advocate of Bath, 
died at Los Angeles, OaL, last Satur- 
day. 



Palmyra Courier. 
He was a most courteous gentle- 
man, and a newspaper writer of rare 
ability and keen judgement, and his 
death wilV be regretted not only 
among his newspaper friends but in 
the community where he had so faith- 
fully labored for a full half century, 
and where he was held in the highest 
esteem. 



Canisteo Times. 
He was one of the most prominent, 
successful and highly respected oub- 
lishers in Western New York, and his 
death is a severe shock to a wide 
circle of acquaintances. 



Nunda News. 
The deceased was one of the best 
known newspaper men of the coun- 
try and his death is sincerely regrett- 
ed by the newspaper fraternity. 



Watkins Express. 
He was one of the oldest, most suc- 
cessful and influential newspaper men 
of Western New York. 



Chemung Valley Reporter. 
Deceased was among the oldest and 
most respected newspaper men in the 
southern tier. 



Mt. Morris Enterprise. 
Deceased was a staunch Democrat, 
an able editor and successful business 
man. 



MASONIC BRETHREN TAKE ACTION. 



STEUBEN LODGE. 

With sincere sorrow the Worshipful 
Master, Wardens and Brethren of 
Steuben Lodge No. 112, F. & A. M., 
place on record this testimonial to the 
late Hon. Anthony Lispenard 
Underhill. 

For more than forty years a mem- 
ber of this lodge, for several years its 
Worshipful Master and one of the 



truest supporters of its principles and 
teachings in this community. Devot- 
ed to its interests, he gave freely of 
his time in assisting in every manner 
its officers and members in the dis- 
charge of their duties. He never 
turned a deaf ear to a brother in dis- 
tress. Clear and able in his chosen 
profession, kind and gentle in his man- 
ner, wise and prudent in his counsel, 
he has left a record which all may 
envy and seek to emulate. 

Mourned by all who knew and loved 
him, he has passed to his eternal rest 
in the full vigor of his manhood, with 
an unblemished character and a life 
passed in benefiting mankind. 

The Worshipful Master, Wardens ' 
and Brethren have directed this me- 
mento to be inscribed on the records 
of the lodge as an imperfect tribute to 
his memory, and also that a copy of 
the same be duly signed by the Wor- 
shipful Master and (Secretary and 
transmitted by the former to the im- 
mediate family of the deceased. 

. J. H. Gilmore, W. M. 

A. B. de Groat, Sec'y. 



BATH CHAPTER. 

At a regular convocation of Bath 
Chapter No. 95, R. A. M., held in Ma- 
sonic Hall in the Village of Bath, the 
following preamble and resolutions 
upon the death of our Worthy Com- 
panion, Anthony L. Underhill, were 
unanimously adopted : 

Whereas, It has pleased the Su- 
preme Architect of the Universe to 
sever another link of the fraternal 
chain that binds us together as Royal 
Arch Masons by taking suddenly from 
our midst our Companion and Past 
High Priest, Anthony L. Underhill, 

"Resolved, That we as men and Roy- 
al Arch Masons realize that *>ve have 
sustained the loss of a Worthy Com- 
panion, a councilor, co-worker and 
friend, whose hand was ever guided 
by justice, and whose heart was ex- 
panded by benevolence. 

Resolved, That we sincerely mourn 
his loss and most affectionately sym- 
pathize with his bereaved family in 
this, their hour of affliction, and trust 
that He who doeth all things well, 
will fold the arms of His love and pro- 



tection around those who put tneir 
trust in Him. 

Resolved, That our Chapter* room 
be draped in mourning for thirty 
days. 

Resolved, That a copy of these reso- 
lutions be spread upon our Chapter 
records, also a copy be presented to 
the family of our deceased companion. 
Moses Davison, 
Charles Dudley. 
Luther Lohnes, 

Committee. 



CHURCH RESOLUTIONS. 

At a special meeting of the Rector, 
Wardens and Vestrymen of St. 
Thomas's church, Bath, held this day, 
the following minute was unanimously 
adopted : 

The Vestry of St. Thomas's meets to-day to 
make some expression of their high apprecia- 
tion of the character of Anthony L. Underhill, 
Esq., and their conviction of loss which they 
sustain in his death. Not only was he con- 
stant in attendance at divine service; but he 
was sigularly reverent and enthusiastic in his 
worship; ever giving gladly of resources for 
the promotion of the temporal and spiritual 
welfare of our church. Of a personality gen- 
ial and benevolent, a faith vivid and fervent, 
respected and admired in the community for 
his gracious qualities and upright life, he will 
be sorely missed among us. Therefore, be it 

Resolved, That we, the Vestry of St. Thomas's 
Church, extend to the family of our departed 
friend and associate our sincerest sympathy 
with them in their bereavement, a sympathy 
the keener since we share their sorrow. Ana 
furthermore be it 

Resolved, That a cpoy of this minute be sent 
to his family, and that a copy be published in 
each of the local papers and in the Churchman. 
(Signed) 
WALTER RUSSELL LORD, 

Rector, 
JAMES LYON, 
CHARLES F. KINGSLEY, 

Warden*. 

Bath, N. Y., March 18, 1902. 



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